[Dazzler]

I have a parcel at the post office, might give this a go tomorrow if I find the time, if not, friday.

 

[alexeiw123]

spewin, spent all morning putting the new lights in and wiring it up.. and voila! only one works...

Need to borrow/buy a multimeter to start trouble shooting and find what's going on. I'm more than confident that the joints are all good so I suspect that either the relay harness, or one of the LED units is faulty. Most probably the harness.

[Doggie 1]

That's a shame.
So you sort of have drls instead of DRLs.
I hope it's an easy fix for you.

[Phil №❶]

Remember the led's are polarised, so you have to get the + to + and - to - or they won't work.

[alexeiw123]

Remember the led's are polarised, so you have to get the + to + and - to - or they won't work.

yeah, thanks, I'm 99% sure I did that correctly, the 1% of uncertainty is from not having a multimeter. both sides are soldered the same though (colours), so you'd expect it wouldn't work on them both if that were the case.

Taking the bumper off and back on again is a bit of a task so might wait until Sunday to have another crack as I've a uni assignment that needs some attention haha. at the moment the lights are in, I've just not connected them to power. Fog lights still work fine though.

Also, for those who have completed this, and sourcing power from the fusebox, where are you getting ignition power from? the spare slots that I used were permanent 12V, even with the car off; which is fine for testing, but once I've got it all working I will need to find an ignition switched point, I swear I checked all available points in the fuse box. It shouldn't be too hard to find a 12V ignition wire, but it'd be helpful to know where you guys used?

[RossC]

Any pics?

Ill pop some up tomorrow

[Doggie 1]

Any pics?

Ill pop some up tomorrow

Thanks, would love to see them.

[alexeiw123]

my foglights came with some Korean 'choco-cakes' in the box as well, any one else get that?

[Dazzler]

Eugene in Canada got a T-bag with his i30 badge 

[RossC]

I got a tea bag and a hand written letter, all in a sealed envelope

[alexeiw123]

aww my letter was printed! off to leave negative feedback then 

a choco-cake is pretty much a wagon wheel with out jam, and with cake instead of biscuit.

[alexeiw123]

spewin, spent all morning putting the new lights in and wiring it up.. and voila! only one works...

Need to borrow/buy a multimeter to start trouble shooting and find what's going on. I'm more than confident that the joints are all good so I suspect that either the relay harness, or one of the LED units is faulty. Most probably the harness.

Update on my issue.
Pulled it apart again and found the issue! hooray! luckily an LED is effectively a diode, as it had 12V on the negative terminal. Going back through my wiring everything was OK, the problem was that the DRL relay unit had was incorrectly wired for one of the LED lights. it had RED - ground, BLACK - active.

So word to the wise, check the outputs of the relay with a multimeter!

[alexeiw123]

Just finished my DRL install. Works great! Thanks for the tutorial

Can you explain to me where in the fuse box you connected to?

"Step 12:
Plug the Wire Tap Mini Blade Fuse 10A into the hole of the 10A spare fuse (if you don't know which one I mean, just have a look at schedule on the inside of the lid of the fuse box."

The only available holes I can see are directly connected to the battery +ve, i.e. the lights will always be on, regardless of ignition.

The part that has the 10A spare, has no contacts at all inside, is only a holder for a spare fuse.

Help is appreciated, Alexei.

[RossC]

Finished DRL's

Any pics?

Ill pop some up tomorrow

Thanks, would love to see them.

[RossC]

Just finished my DRL install. Works great! Thanks for the tutorial

Can you explain to me where in the fuse box you connected to?

"Step 12:
Plug the Wire Tap Mini Blade Fuse 10A into the hole of the 10A spare fuse (if you don't know which one I mean, just have a look at schedule on the inside of the lid of the fuse box."

The only available holes I can see are directly connected to the battery +ve, i.e. the lights will always be on, regardless of ignition.

The part that has the 10A spare, has no contacts at all inside, is only a holder for a spare fuse.

Help is appreciated, Alexei.

If you look where the 10A spare fuse is in the fuse box, right next to it theres a 10A engine fuse. Replace the 10A engine fuse with your one

[alexeiw123]

Just finished my DRL install. Works great! Thanks for the tutorial

Can you explain to me where in the fuse box you connected to?

"Step 12:
Plug the Wire Tap Mini Blade Fuse 10A into the hole of the 10A spare fuse (if you don't know which one I mean, just have a look at schedule on the inside of the lid of the fuse box."

The only available holes I can see are directly connected to the battery +ve, i.e. the lights will always be on, regardless of ignition.

The part that has the 10A spare, has no contacts at all inside, is only a holder for a spare fuse.

Help is appreciated, Alexei.

If you look where the 10A spare fuse is in the fuse box, right next to it theres a 10A engine fuse. Replace the 10A engine fuse with your one

Awesome, thanks! I can call this job done now...

Here's a thought though, if the engine fuse is 10A, and we add an extra load to it, all be it a small one, won't we potentially leave ourselves open to popping the fuse a bit early?

Might pop mine in backwards, as I've got an in line fuse on the DRL relay as well.

Thanks again.

[alexeiw123]

Job done, here's a photo.

big thanks to all on here who helped, wouldn't have attempted it without martys write up.



EDIT: changed link to photobucket...

[Phil №❶]

Well done, congratulations for persisting too. 

[Shambles]

I see no pic (again)

[Phil №❶]

It was there when I replied, but it's blank now 

[alexeiw123]

I see no pic (again)

OK it turns out copying image URL form google drive doesn't give you a permalink, even if it's public. changed to photobucket.

[Doggie 1]

That looks great, definitely worth doing. 

[Keith]

For anyone else wishing to do this a switched 12v can be found on the Fuse marked "B/UP"

I've been using this pick up point for quite a while now with no ill effects.

[alexeiw123]

For anyone else wishing to do this aa switched 12v can be found on the Fuse marked "B/UP"

Yep, checked it, works.

If you use the b/up fuse location, your LEDs will go out immediately after the car is turned off, if you use the engine   fuse location there is about a ten second delay after the car turns off before the LEDs go out.

[Top Gun]

Fitted some to the wifes car last weekend, nice mod...



Thanks to all those who wrote instructions.

Must try the engine fuse, like the idea of them being slightly delayed after ignition turns off.  alexeiw123, can you be more specific on which engine fuse it is as there are a few marker 10a?

[alexeiw123]

No problem, if you check the sticker under the fusebox lid, its labelled with a number 11.

[Dazzler]

Fitted some to the wifes car last weekend, nice mod...

Nice 

[Top Gun]

No problem, if you check the sticker under the fusebox lid, its labelled with a number 11.

Got it, thanks!

[alexeiw123]

other's who have done the install, what do you think of the brightness of these, to be fair, I've not seen my car drive past or anything, but I can't help but feel that they aren't quite as bright as you'd expect.

I saw this video review form UK, and I feel like they look brighter... imagining it?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WDrp-g3bHM#t=3m25s (jumped to 3:25)

[Dazzler]

They do look very bright.. I have seen that review on here before, but just watched it again anyway