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MY New i30 Compared With the Previous Model

AlanHo · 35 · 30248

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Offline AlanHo

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I have now enjoyed 6 months with my new 2012 i30 in which I have clocked up 7250 miles (11,660 km) which includes a good mix of town, country and motorway driving. It is perhaps a good time to record my impressions of the car and, before my memory fades, how it compares with my previous 2010 i30.

My new car is an i30 1.6 CRDi 128 PS 6 speed manual hatch Style model.

My previous car was an i30 1.6 CRDi 115 PS 6 speed manual hatch Premium model.

The photo above was taken on April 6th 2012 at my Hyundai dealership when I traded in the old car for the new one.

These thoughts are in no particular order and are unashamedly based upon my thread of 6 months ago when I placed on record my first impressions of the new car – now updated as appropriate after living with the car for a while.

The wheelbase of the new model is the same as previous. The new car is a few mm longer and wider – but with slightly reduced overall height. Better packaging of the drive train and other components have produced increased cabin and luggage space.

The cabin has proved to be comfortable and feels much more spacious than the old model – even though it has grown by only a few millimetres in each direction.  There is definitely more headroom in both the front and back. Seating is similar to the previous car which I find comfortable – even on a 3 hour non-stop drive. My wife has an on-going gripe though – like the previous car - the front passenger seat lacks height adjustment. I am still thinking of fitting some spacers under the seat brackets to raise the seat height for her.

Leg room front and rear is as generous as the previous model – and rear seat comfort is enhanced by the floor tunnel now being only 5cm high which makes the middle seat leg space more comfortable. In addition, it is now much easier for rear passengers to enter via the nearside door and slide across the seats. I have not been a rear seat passenger but my wife and friends who have made journeys in the back, have commented on the generous leg room, head room and general comfort.
 
My wife finds that the reduced side window glazed area and the higher sill compared with the previous car a bit of a negative – but being taller it has no effect on me other than I find that the ¾ rear view vision in the new car is compromised. If you pull up to a T junction where the road joins at an angle – the B pillar, front passenger seat headrest and smaller rear window seriously impede vision down the road you are joining. Several times I have had to ask my wife to act as look-out.

The instrumentation and controls in the new car are all ergonomically located – but not radically different from the previous model. The cabin is a nice place to be in.

The instant economy display on the new car is a joke. The old car had a digital numeric display - but the new car has a horizontal bar graph, without a scale, and limited to 50 mpg. Hyundai advertise the car as having exceptional fuel economy and it is ridiculous to limit the instant display to a maximum that is lower than the average economy most people will experience. At the UK car launch the Hyundai product manager told me that Hyundai recognised the problem and would issue a software update in June. They now tell me it will only apply to cars built after September 2012 so I have to put up with it.

The steering wheel has a full complement of buttons for the audio, phone, cruise, speed limiter, trip computer and steering mode. They are all nicely located and easy to operate without taking your eyes off the road. The trip computer reset button is no longer hiding on the dash, but is now on the steering wheel. However – this great idea has been spoiled by its placing – at the bottom of the ‘spoke’ where it is all too easy to accidentally press it when turning left with the steering wheel at 90 degrees. I tend to leave my trip display showing average economy and several times I have accidentally reset it to zero. I now recognise the problem and keep my hand away from that part of the steering wheel.

The stalk controls mounted on the steering column function exactly the same as the previous model. This is good for those of us with a short memory and I have had no problems with the windscreen wipers inadvertently coming on when I actually intended to use the turn indicators - or vice versa.

A slight disappointment is that the turn indicator audio clicker, like the previous model, is not loud enough for me. My wife has no problem reminding me the indicators are still on – so people with better hearing than mine might argue that it is fine.  I considered that on my previous i30 the steering wheel had to be turned through too big an angle for the turn indicators to be automatically tripped – the new car seems much better in this respect.

Unlike my previous i30 – the new car has a one-touch lane change turn indicator function causing the signals to flash 3 times. This can be deactivated in the settings menu.

The new car is not provided with a cigarette lighter or an ashtray. This is a very sensible idea.  It still has two power sockets in the front though.

My previous car had single zone climate control. The new car has dual zone. Frankly I have not noticed any benefit – other than my wife can constantly fiddle with the temperature on her side of the car without theoretically affecting mine.  Bliss…………….

The speedometer in my previous car was dead accurate at all speeds compared with my Sat-nav display  – however, the new car is not. The speedometer is 8% fast at 30 mph (50 km/h) and 7% fast at 70 mph ( 112 km/h).

Using the kilometre boards on the motorway, I have determined that the odometer in the new car is 1.8 % slow. That is – if the odometer registers a distance of 100 miles – the car has actually travelled 101.8 miles. The old car odometer was 2.4% slow.

The steering wheel adjustment has tilt (as before) and reach (new feature) which have enabled me to get it into a comfortable position with an uninterrupted view of the instruments. The new car has a steering mode button on the steering wheel which allows you to select one of three power assist settings – Comfort, Normal and Sport which effectively vary the amount of power assistance from high through to low. I originally used the normal setting, but for the past couple of months I have been regularly using the comfort setting which provides very light steering – perhaps they should call it the granddad mode.

The manual gear change is the same gate arrangement as the previous model with a button under the shift lever knob to access reverse. The smoothness of gear changes is much improved compared with the previous model – my previous i30 was very notchy especially on 1st and 2nd.

Pedal spacing feels about the same as the previous car with which I am happy. Note that the new car has an organ type accelerator pedal.  It took a little getting used to – but I now prefer it.

Cabin stowage is more generous than the previous car :-

•   Front door pockets are 3 cm wider at the front end x 16 cm longer and now incorporate a bottle holder
•   The rear door pockets are longer and now wide enough for a small bottle
•   The storage area in front of the gear stick is much bigger. However, missing from the new car is the small cubby with a drop down door and the ashtray,  which were both fitted on the previous model just below the climate controls.
•   The glove box is wider and deeper.
•   The centre armrest compartment is bigger in every dimension. It is now big enough for both “his and hers” junk.
•   All the storage compartments and cup holder wells have rubber surfaces at the bottom to minimise loose contents rattling. Another nice touch.

I have not used the Audio system or the voice enabled Mobile phone Bluetooth, other than to try them out when I first had the car. I will get round to tuning in a few radio stations one of the days and may even plug in a USB stick with my favourite music loaded. Hence I cannot comment on these features – other than that the sound quality is excellent but the radio stations still broadcast the same thumping pop music and other rubbish. I did synchronise my Samsung and Blackberry phones with the Bluetooth system one day. The voice enabled system is impressive and caters well with all sorts of accents – so my Australian and Scots friends will probably be able to use it. Us brummies speak posh so we will definitely have no problems. However – it was not possible to load my full address book into the car because it recognised only one phone number for each person. Where I have a home phone number and a mobile number for contacts on my mobile phone – only the mobile number got transferred. Hence I do not use the phone system in the car. This makes all the audio and phone buttons on the left spoke of the steering wheel totally superfluous in my car.

My car does not have the built-in sat-nav so I continue to use my tried and trusted Garmin Nuvi. The steeply raked windscreen means that if a sat-nav is mounted on the screen, it would be a long reach from the driving seat. However, the top surface of the dashboard in the centre of the car is virtually flat which made it easy to fit a self-adhesive disc for the sat-nav sucker mount.  For me, this is the ideal position – visibly just below the bottom edge of the windscreen, easy to reach, and can be seen without taking your eyes too far off the road ahead. It is also visible and within easy reach of a passenger which can be useful. Those concerned that the use of a self-adhesive disc will damage the dash surface need have no fear – mine was removed easily and without any damage from all my previous cars by judicious use of a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

The steep rake of the windscreen means that the bottom of the screen is further away from the driver and the top of the screen nearer than the previous model.  This makes the A pillar more noticeable at and above eye level - but does not appear to increase the blind spot area at any elevation that matters.

On my new car all 4 side windows have one touch auto up and down – my previous i30 had just auto down on only the front windows. 

What is missing on the new car is an auto dipping rear view mirror which I had on the previous one.  This is not listed as an option for any version.

My new car is fitted with the blue drive fuel economy system which includes ISG (Idle Stop & Go), a more durable starter motor and an advanced energy recovery alternator.  The engine stops when the car comes to a standstill and is put into neutral. It restarts as soon as you depress the clutch to engage 1st gear.  To avoid the engine stopping and starting repeatedly when crawling in traffic the car must reach a speed of roughly 10 km/hr since the last idle stop for it to operate. I suppose this is a necessary limitation - but rather defeats the intention of the ISG system to reduce emissions in urban stop-go conditions.  The ISG feature will not stop the engine under certain conditions - including - when the climate control is at a high setting, the defroster is on or the battery is in a low state of charge. It is not stated in the manual – but I believe that the ISG is also deactivated when the DPF is regenerating. The ISG feature can be deactivated via a button on the dashboard.  I am not convinced that there is much to be gained overall from using ISG – it may be psychological, but I suspect that the car is more lively and you get quicker throttle response with it switched off.

Regarding normal engine starting – unlike my previous i30 – you have to fully depress the clutch before turning the starter key to start the engine.

My car is fitted with assisted hill start control (HAC). To actuate it you apply the handbrake and go into neutral when stopping on a hill. As is normal, to move off you apply the footbrake, release the handbrake, depress the clutch and select first gear. The HAC stops the car from moving backwards by holding the brake on for a second as you lift your foot from the brake to operate the accelerator. On an upslope it works when you pull away forwards – and on a downslope when you reverse. It sounds a bit clumsy but is very effective. It is a feature of the new car that I really appreciate.

A new feature is the Emergency Stop Signal (ESS) which alerts the driver behind by blinking the stop lights when the vehicle is braked rapidly and severely at a speed above 55 km/h. It also operates when ABS is activating. When the speed falls below 40 km/h and still braking heavily the stop lights will stop blinking and the hazard warning lights will turn on automatically. The hazard warning lights will go off after the vehicle stops then moves again at a speed above 10 km/h – or they can be switched off manually.
 
The vehicle also has an Emergency Brake Assist which applies maximum braking when it detects an emergency braking situation. It responds to a sudden and hard application of the brakes by the driver – who might then not apply enough foot pressure on the brake pedal for maximum braking. I do believe that I tested this feature in anger recently when a driver ran a red light across my path and I had to panic brake suddenly. The braking was so effective it was like hitting a brick wall.

My previous car was fitted with basic cruise control - but the new car has cruise control with a speed limiter function as standard. To set the maximum speed you wish to travel, you simply accelerate/decelerate to the required speed and press the speed limiting button on the steering wheel. (You can trim this speed up and down with the same plus and minus buttons on the steering wheel that are used by the cruise control). This is not cruise control – you are still in charge of the car’s speed via the throttle - it simply prevents the car from exceeding the set speed. However - you can beat the system by pressing hard down on the accelerator – a bit like kick down on an auto – whereupon you can exceed the set limit to your heart’s content - but a loud annoying chime will sound until you behave yourself.  The new car has clear graphic indicators in the instrument display to show when the cruise or Speed limiter are on - whereas my previous car had a dealer fit cruise control which had a small green light set into the speedo binnacle which was difficult to see in bright sunlight.

The rear seat folding arrangement is the same as the old model – but the rear seat backs now fold dead flat. The rear headrests do not need be removed in order to fold the seats flat – provided that the front seats are slid not fully back or reclined too much. I am just 6 feet tall and my seat is set about three quarters back.

The luggage compartment (boot) floor is now lower, presumably due to the use of a space saver spare – this leaves a small 6 cm step up where the rear seats fold.

The luggage compartment is 2 cm wider x 8 cm taller to the underside of the parcel shelf compared with the previous model, but it has the same lengths front to back - with both the back seats up and folded down. The new car has a much deeper “well” measured from the luggage compartment floor to the sill of the tailgate opening. The new car is 23 cm – the previous model 10 cm – this makes lifting luggage in and out of the boot slightly more difficult.

My wife found humping suitcases in and out of the previous car rather difficult  – but she has found the new car to be almost an ordeal.  Perhaps I should help her in case she scrapes the bumper paintwork in her struggles.

The halogen headlights on the new car are similar in performance to the previous model – the only real difference is that my new car is equipped with what is called static bending lights. This is an extra light in the headlight unit each side of the car set to shine at an angle to illuminate the corner you are turning into. It comes on automatically when the lights are on and you turn the steering wheel. It is speed sensitive – below a certain speed a  bigger steering wheel angle is required to switch the bending light on.  When the car is reversing, the light on the outside of the turn comes on.  This is another feature I appreciate.

The new car has daylight running lights – quite stylish LED ones built into the fog lamps. The previous car did not have DRL’s and the body shape made fitting after-market ones difficult.

Interestingly, the UK adverts for the new car claim that it has 14 coats of paint. Thin paintwork on the previous model has been mentioned quite a few times on the forum. Perhaps Hyundai have improved in this respect.
   
My previous car had just rear parking sensors – the new one also has them at the front. However they are almost useless because there are just two sensors – one at each front corner behind the fog lamps. Hence the front of the car is not protected. I have had a proper after-market kit fitted as reported in detail in a separate thread.
 
Like my previous car the bonnet (hood) has a stay rod to hold it open – I would have preferred gas struts and await someone posting details of how they have converted their 2012 car to gas struts.

I am relieved to find that unlike my previous i30, this car does not have chrome trim inserts in the wheels. Also that my new car has 16” wheels rather than the 17” wheels fitted to my previous i30 which made the ride too hard and cabin noise greater. The new car has a smaller turning circle than my previous model – perhaps because the 16” wheels do not require a steering rack spacer to limit the travel that was fitted to my previous car.

Because I have a hearing deficiency and am sensitive to cabin noise, , I arranged for the dealer to change the standard Hankook Ventus Prime 2 tyres to Continental Premium Contact 2 before I took delivery. These Continentals are generally recognised to be one of the best for quiet running. It has proved to have been a wise decision.

I always found the alloys on the previous car difficult to clean because the twin spokes were close together. The new car’s wheels are much easier to clean.

Like my previous i30 – the new one is equipped with manually operated electric folding mirrors. My new car has turn indicator repeaters in the mirror housing, these were not fitted to my previous car.

There is no fuel filler release in the cabin of the new car – you just press on the filler door and it springs open via a toggle latch. It can only be opened when the car doors are unlocked. It is therefore as secure as the previous car, which had a floor mounted release lever by the driver’s seat.

The car feels somehow more substantial, more cossetting and far more refined. It feels like a big car disguised in a smaller body. It rides bumps much better than the previous car, has a much quieter cabin, feels more spacious and oozes quality. It is quite definitely the step up in prestige that Hyundai targeted.

The new car is theoretically more powerful at 94kW than my previous one which developed  85kW. Both cars have the same torque figures. The new car is claimed to accelerate from zero to 100 km/h in 10.9 seconds – 0.6 seconds quicker than the previous car. I have to say that the car feels less lively than my previous i30 - but my own timed acceleration  tests prove that it really is quicker. Perhaps I am not noticing any real difference because the refinement of the car masks the improvement.


Regarding fuel consumption.
Here are the comparisons between the new and old cars :-
(Note that the figures have been adjusted to allow for odometer errors for both cars and that fuel usage is based upon brim to brim calculations).


                                                       New Car                                        Previous car
Total distance to date            7260 miles – 11,680 km                     13,770 miles – 22,160 km

Average Economy to date      54,42 mpg – 5.19 l/100km                 49.01 mpg – 5.76 l/100km     

Best Economy on one tank    59.39 mpg – 4.76 l/100 km                 56.8 mpg – 4.97 l/100 km

Longest range on one tank     744 miles – 1197 km                          621 miles – 999 km   



My new 2012 i30 1.6 CRDi is higher geared than my previous i30. This may account for the fact that my new car, although higher powered at 128PS rather than 115PS, feels less lively than my previous car . On paper the new car accelerates quicker than the previous model though.

This is how the gearing compares between both cars - speeds in each gear at 2000 engine rpm.

Gear                  1        2         3         4          5            6

2010  model    15       30      48        67        80          95 km/h
                       9        19      30        42       50           59 mph

2012 model    18       32       56       79        93          111 km/h
                     11       20       35       49       58            69 mph

For gears 3 to 6 inc - the gearing of the new model is 16% higher than the previous one. It looks as though they have changed the final drive ratio to get better economy at normal driving speeds and tweaked the first and second ratio's to ensure a smooth get away.   

However – I find the higher ratio for first gear has made it easy to stall the car on take off. On my previous car I rarely stalled it – in fact I could slowly let the clutch in at engine idle and it would pull away. Not the new car though – trying that trick results in the engine stopping.

I also don’t like the much higher gear ratio for reverse gear – it makes reversing up a steep slope a nightmare. I have a friend whose drive slopes down from the road. Many times I visited in the old car and never had a problem reversing back up the drive. It’s a different story with the new car – I had to use lots of revs and needed to slip the clutch to make the climb. I have only done it once because the smell of burning clutch is a bit off-putting. When I visit, I now reverse down the drive and can drive off in 1st gear without a problem.     


Overall I am well pleased with the new car  - it is a perfect match with our lifestyle and my conservative driving style. It is compact enough to make town driving and parking easy (especially with front and rear parking sensors) yet has plenty of room and long legs for our motorway journeys for regular holidays the length and breadth of the UK. Cabin noise is much better than the previous car and it has better economy – albeit well short of the official government figures.

I must admit though – the previous model is a fine car and if you have one that is serving your purpose there is really no compelling reason to upgrade. My reason was to get a car with a less noisy cabin, better economy and 5 year warranty that would see me to 80 years of age – a milestone that just may mark the day I give up driving and become a proper pensioner.


Newer members to the forum might find the following threads of interest :

https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1616

https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=14198.0

https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=14272.0


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Offline eye30

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What a great read........

I would agree with what you say but just like to add my comments to a few of the points.

For reference I have a petrol 1.4 Active so some of the feature Alan talks about are not on my model.



The instant economy display on the new car is a joke.


Agree.

 

 The new car has a steering mode button on the steering wheel which allows you to select one of three power assist settings – Comfort, Normal and Sport which effectively vary the amount of power assistance from high through to low.


I have set mine to Comfort as I find this to be the best setting for me for all driving  - short, motorway, slow speed etc.



The smoothness of gear changes is much improved compared with the previous model – my previous i30 was very notchy especially on 1st and 2nd.


I had no issues with my previous i30 but I will say the gear change is so smooth and glides effortlessly into each of the 7 gears, (6 forward 1 reverse).



However – it was not possible to load my full address book into the car because it recognised only one phone number for each person. Where I have a home phone number and a mobile number for contacts on my mobile phone – only the mobile number got transferred.


I had to set each as a separate entry on my mobile so it would display both mobile and home on the cars system.



The steep rake of the windscreen means that the bottom of the screen is further away from the driver and the top of the screen nearer than the previous model.  This makes the A pillar more noticeable at and above eye level - but does not appear to increase the blind spot area at any elevation that matters.


I find this an issue.  I find that there is more of a blind spot than I had with the previous i30.



On my new car all 4 side windows have one touch auto up and down – my previous i30 had just auto down on only the front windows. 


Only on the drivers window for me



My car is fitted with assisted hill start control (HAC). To actuate it you apply the handbrake and go into neutral when stopping on a hill. As is normal, to move off you apply the footbrake, release the handbrake, depress the clutch and select first gear. The HAC stops the car from moving backwards by holding the brake on for a second as you lift your foot from the brake to operate the accelerator. On an upslope it works when you pull away forwards – and on a downslope when you reverse. It sounds a bit clumsy but is very effective. It is a feature of the new car that I really appreciate.


I don't like this!!!!!.

I've had instances when it has caused me a problems at take off and the front wheels have spun.
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Offline Doggie 1

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That is a really useful report and exactly what I was looking for.
As you know, I have already sold my FD and am awaiting the GD and I must admit to having some doubts because my old car was so good except for its five speed gearbox and its excessive road noise.
I am really looking forward to the new one arriving and it has reinforced to me that I made the right decision.
It seems to me that the old car was more about character and the new one is more about refinement.
Thanks again, great job.  :goodjob2:
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Offline Asterix

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Alan, for crying out loud... this will take me the whole evening to read.... :sweating:  :rofl: :rofl:

Will get back to it later, as your post's are allways interesting.  :goodjob:
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Offline Asterix

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Finally got through it..  :sweating:

What a great read, thorough as usual.

Thanks, Alan.  :goodjob2:
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Offline diablo

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Thanks for the usual detailed account !

Interesting, but I'll stick with my old model until it is four at least. It does the job very well and it is mainly used as a shopping car anyway. :)


Offline AlanHo

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My car is fitted with assisted hill start control (HAC). To actuate it you apply the handbrake and go into neutral when stopping on a hill. As is normal, to move off you apply the footbrake, release the handbrake, depress the clutch and select first gear. The HAC stops the car from moving backwards by holding the brake on for a second as you lift your foot from the brake to operate the accelerator. On an upslope it works when you pull away forwards – and on a downslope when you reverse. It sounds a bit clumsy but is very effective. It is a feature of the new car that I really appreciate.


I don't like this!!!!!.

I've had instances when it has caused me a problems at take off and the front wheels have spun.

I am surprised that you have had problems. It has worked perfectly on my car from day 1.  During our recent Devon holiday I had to stop on a massively steep hill at a junction onto a busy main road. So steep the handbrake was at its limit. Sods law hit me when a Range Rover stopped very close behind me and filled my mirror with its grill. The HAC saved me from having a turgid time with gear, clutch and footbrake synchronisation and the risk of having a Range Rover impaled on the rear of my car. 

I find that the HAC is activated when you apply the footbrake before releasing the handbrake - hence it is the footbrake on all 4 wheels that is kept on for a brief while as you take your foot off the brake pedal and move it to the accelerator.   Are you therefore sure that you released the handbrake fully after applying the footbrake?
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Offline AlanHo

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Thanks for the usual detailed account !

Interesting, but I'll stick with my old model until it is four at least. It does the job very well and it is mainly used as a shopping car anyway. :)

As I said

Quote
I must admit though – the previous model is a fine car and if you have one that is serving your purpose there is really no compelling reason to upgrade. My reason was to get a car with a less noisy cabin, better economy and 5 year warranty that would see me to 80 years of age – a milestone that just may mark the day I give up driving and become a proper pensioner.
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Offline diablo

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As I said

Quote
I must admit though – the previous model is a fine car and if you have one that is serving your purpose there is really no compelling reason to upgrade. My reason was to get a car with a less noisy cabin, better economy and 5 year warranty that would see me to 80 years of age – a milestone that just may mark the day I give up driving and become a proper pensioner.

I must admit I was mildly tempted to attend one of the local dealers' invitation days (with a £2000 off voucher)  but decided against in case I got tempted and signed something.

That would have been a rather silly thing to do but I can be impetuous at times, unlike you Alan.  :mrgreen:

In a year or two my circumstances may have changed and I might want something different anyway.

The present car is suitable for when I take my owd dementia-ridden mother on drives out, that was one reason I got it in the first place. I took her along on part of the test drive, then dropped her off and zoomed off at high speed.  :rofl:


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Thanks Alan,  :brilliant: as Dave said just what I wanted too  :goodjob:
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Excellent read Alan thanks!

A few things I picked up

1. HAC- I had the same system as yours on the ix20 and found that occasionally I wanted it to hold for longer than the 1sec it is programmed for, those occasions when the car in front doesn't go as you expected and you have to reapply the brake rather than still being on hill hold kind of bugged me.  I think the AutoHold on the i40 is much better as the handbrake automatically applies and does not switch off until it (and you) are certain you are moving off.

2.  Gas struts-this is possibly a fairly easy mod, the bonnet on the new i30 looks to be very similar dimensions to the i40 which has struts, bet that the replacement strut kit for an i40 can be planted in there no problem :idea:

3.  Average fuel economy trip reset -have you checked in your dash settings?  On the i40 it is possible to switch between auto reset (based on when the fuel flap is opened and closed) and user reset (using the button on the wheel).
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Offline AlanHo

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3.  Average fuel economy trip reset -have you checked in your dash settings?  On the i40 it is possible to switch between auto reset (based on when the fuel flap is opened and closed) and user reset (using the button on the wheel).

Yes Brian - I was aware of that - but on the i30 it resets when you add more than about 5 litres of fuel - not when the flap operates. I prefer the manual method - I can reset it mid-journey if I want to.
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Offline alexeiw123

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Where I have a home phone number and a mobile number for contacts on my mobile phone – only the mobile number got transferred. Hence I do not use the phone system in the car. This makes all the audio and phone buttons on the left spoke of the steering wheel totally superfluous in my car.

In my car (with 7" screen & GPS) once i select a contact to call, it expands with all the numbers listed under that contact

Quote
the only real difference is that my new car is equipped with what is called static bending lights. This is an extra light in the headlight unit each side of the car set to shine at an angle to illuminate the corner you are turning into. It comes on automatically when the lights are on and you turn the steering wheel. It is speed sensitive – below a certain speed a  bigger steering wheel angle is required to switch the bending light on.  When the car is reversing, the light on the outside of the turn comes on.  This is another feature I appreciate.

Is this a standard feature? I've not yet noticed it on mine, and looking in the headlight I couldn't see anything obvious.. any way to obviously make it switch on so I can test?

Awesome write up, very thorough, thanks!


Offline AlanHo

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@alexeiw123

I don't know what the Aussie spec is for your model. Check the brochure to see if it mentions the cornering lights.

It is easy to tell if fitted - when it is dark and you are driving forwards, switch your headlights on and turn into a side road. If fitted an extra headlight will come on to illuminate the side you are turning into. It really is very obvious.

Regarding the phone book - it is dependent on the model of phone. Some connect fully - some don't. Some older bluetooth phones will not connect at all.
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Offline rustynutz

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The steering wheel adjustment has tilt (as before) and reach (new feature) which have enabled me to get it into a comfortable position with an uninterrupted view of the instruments.

Alan....you mention the GD steering wheel now has "reach" adjustment......I was under the impression that it was standard worldwide in the old FD?  :undecided:


Offline AlanHo

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The steering wheel adjustment has tilt (as before) and reach (new feature) which have enabled me to get it into a comfortable position with an uninterrupted view of the instruments.

Alan....you mention the GD steering wheel now has "reach" adjustment......I was under the impression that it was standard worldwide in the old FD?  :undecided:

I'm embarrassed. I vaguely recall trying to adjust steering wheel reach on my previous car - but it didn't move - so I assumed it wasn't fitted. The wheel position was OK for me anyway so I never persued it. I have just looked at the old brochure and you are quite correct - it was fitted. Perhaps mine was stiff (the steering wheel adjustment) and I tried it on the day I didn't have my weetabix for breakfast........... :eek:
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Offline Dazzler

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Thank God :exclaim: Alan Ho is human, he made a mistake  :goodjob: (mark that in your diaries folks .. It doesn't happen often) and I mean that in a good way Alan  :winker:
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Perhaps mine was stiff and I tried it on the day I didn't have my weetabix for breakfast........... :eek:

I relate Alan, just be patient and try again on another day.  :D
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Offline peon2t

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I don't like this!!!!!.

I've had instances when it has caused me a problems at take off and the front wheels have spun.

Today I also had an issue with the HAC. I wanted to do a hill-starting but instead of releasing the brake when I stepped on the gas and released the clutch the HAC just continued braking which ended in stalling the engine...

I tought the HAC notices when the driver releases the clutch... but obviously it doesn't. But then I don't see the use of such a system.


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Excellent review, some experts would turn green of envy.
Thanks!

The steering wheel adjustment has tilt (as before) and reach (new feature) which have enabled me to get it into a comfortable position with an uninterrupted view of the instruments.

Alan....you mention the GD steering wheel now has "reach" adjustment......I was under the impression that it was standard worldwide in the old FD?  :undecided:

Thank God :exclaim: Alan Ho is human, he made a mistake  :goodjob: (mark that in your diaries folks .. It doesn't happen often) ...
I'm pretty sure the "reach" adjustment isn't standard, so, write the entry off your diaries. Alan isn't human wrong :D
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Offline rustynutz

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I'm pretty sure the "reach" adjustment isn't standard, so, write the entry off your diaries. Alan isn't human wrong :D

Are you sure, babis? Perhaps you just haven't eaten your weetabix?.... :whistler:


Offline babis_xo

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I'm pretty sure the "reach" adjustment isn't standard

Are you sure, babis? Perhaps you just haven't eaten your weetabix?.... :whistler:
:lol:
If we are talking for the "pull-push" thing... As we don't have weetabix here, this feature was an option
 :disapp: (for the weetabix)
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Offline baroudeur

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The speedometer in my previous car was dead accurate at all speeds compared with my Sat-nav display  – however, the new car is not. The speedometer is 8% fast at 30 mph (50 km/h) and 7% fast at 70 mph ( 112 km/h).

Using the kilometre boards on the motorway, I have determined that the odometer in the new car is 1.8 % slow. That is – if the odometer registers a distance of 100 miles – the car has actually travelled 101.8 miles. The old car odometer was 2.4% slow.


I've risked re-surrecting part of this post.

I have just compared my car (MY2011) odometer against a Garmin sat nav with Eco setting.

A journey, all motorway, of 116.3 miles on the sat nav showed as 112.8 miles on the odometer. On the return, same route reversed, was 117.2 versus 113.6.

So it seems there is a 3.5%  under-reading error against the true mileage and tyre wear will accentuate this error further.



Offline Phil №❶

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Just a thought, before we accept that the odometer is incorrect, can anyone tell us EXACTLY how accurate the GPS figuring is. At motor vehicle level, we are NOT aiming guided missiles into particular windows. My Garmin has a pedestrian setting which uses a finer grid to locate and track distance, (and I think that's to the nearest 4  metres). The car grid must be even more metres between coordinates and maybe the error is in the GPS. I assume the larger grid is so the operating system can cope with the calcs.
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Offline AlanHo

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I have checked my Garmin Nuvi 3590 sat nav against the motorway markers over distances of
239 and 221 km on the M5,
93 and 107 km on the M6,
136 and 98 km on the M40

and the variation between the sat-nav and marker boards was in the range + 0.09% and - 0.065%. The car odometer on the same tests was slow by amounts between 1.83% and 1.78% compared with the marker boards.

Hence I conclude that my actual economy when calculated brim to brim needs adjusting by +1.8%. So if the calculation using odo readings comes out at 58 mpg - the actual economy is 59 mpg etc.
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Offline baroudeur

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Just a thought, before we accept that the odometer is incorrect, can anyone tell us EXACTLY how accurate the GPS figuring is. At motor vehicle level, we are NOT aiming guided missiles into particular windows.

Maybe not  but mine does a good job of delivering me to exactly the location I have chosen be it 1 mile or 700 miles away.

Sat nav accuracy depends on how satellites can be "seen" the more the better the accuracy.
Providing a  location of fixed point on the sat map may be down to 8 metres or so  which is all that is really needed  but calculating a journey involves  readings every half second with calculations and corrections resulting in a very accurate distance travelled.  Perhaps the error is only the± 8 metres at the start and finish?  At 100kph the distance travelled in a  half second is only 0.014 metres


Offline Phil №❶

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Sorry, it 13.8 metres  :eek:
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Offline AlanHo

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Offline Phil №❶

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 :snigger: :oops: :-[
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