I replaced the rear right caliper on my 2015 1.6 CRDi today. This is with manual handbrake. The handbrake had become quite slack lately, pulling up the mat in the centre console cubby-hole I could see that the handbrake cable on the right side was having to be pulled further forward with the handbrake on, indicating it was that side that was faulty.

With the wheel off and handbrake off (chock the front wheels), I could see that the crank that is pulled by the brake cable hadn't sprung back all the way so the shaft which passes through the back of the caliper body is seizing up, no doubt due to corrosion. Before taking the old caliper off, I'd suggest loosening off the brake hose banjo bolt, then tighten it lightly. It's easier to loosen off when the caliper is firmly held. After undoing the caliper retaining bolts, lift the old caliper away from the pads and wind the piston in to expel fluid out of the caliper. Detach the handbrake cable and tuck the old caliper out of the way.

Before offering up the new caliper, wind the piston out as far as it will go whilst still being able to slide it over the pads. I used vernier calipers to measure the thickness of pad + disc + pad, then wound the piston out until the gap from the piston to the caliper body was slightly wider. The slots in the piston face have to be in the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions to fit over the pip in the back of the disc pad, so you can only wind the piston in or out in increments of half a turn.

Once the caliper is secured by the two bolts, transfer the brake hose from the old caliper to the new one as quickly as possible to minimise fluid loss. Tighten the banjo bolt to 35Nm, and wipe away any brake fluid off the caliper. Bleed air out of the caliper and press the brake pedal a few times to advance the pads up to the disc. Check there are no leaks. Fit the handbrake cable to the crank on the new caliper, I had to reach down into the centre console and slacken off the handbrake adjuster nut by 18 clicks (9 turns) in order to get the eye in the end of the cable over the hook on the crank. I retightened the adjuster nut by 10 clicks at which point the handbrake seemed tight enough. Once I've taken it out for a test drive and the caliper has had a chance to bed in I'll re-adjust as necessary.

A while ago I posted a topic about strapping the clutch hose on with cable ties. This is for those cars with a coaxial slave cylinder buried away inside the bell housing, with a plastic spigot that pokes out and the clutch hose is a push fit with a snap clip to hold it in place. Unfortunately the snap clip broke allowing the hose to separate from the spigot so you end up with a non-working clutch and a puddle of hydraulic fluid in the undertray.

Hyundai won't supply the snap clip alone, you have to buy a complete hose which is around £100, so I held the hose on with cable ties as a temporary measure. A couple of years later, the cable ties broke and I was back to square 1. Fortunately, I found that Vauxhall did supply snap clips which looked very similar, so I bought a couple seeing as they were only about £2 each. I've included a photo of the new clip alongside the original broken clip. The gap from the first kink in the wire to the top is smaller, but when I pushed it in there was a pretty firm click as it seated around the groove in the spigot, and it hasn't popped out in the few weeks since I fitted it. Vauxhall part number is 90512780

For good measure, I also decided to try and get the proper o-ring that seals the connection. It's now impossible to ring the parts departments of my nearest Hyundai dealers, you have to fill in an online enquiry form and wait a few days for a reply. The Kia dealers do have a person that picks up the phone and when I gave them the part number for the o-ring it was about £5. Not only did they not have stock but they've never ordered any. They told me I should just get an o-ring set and pick one out that seemed the best fit. That's what I did, pick one out from the set of assorted o-rings I already had.

I dispensed with fitting the cable ties as extra security, I think the offset tension pulls the hose off-centre and it doesn't seal so well. I carry some in the car though, just in case.

My I30 is 2014, 1.6, in Brazil it is flex fuel, that is, it uses petrol or ethanol. I replaced the instrument panel, as shown in the photos below. I purchased a 1.8 petrol car. Everything worked well, except the fuel gauge... it was always empty. Any idea what could be the cause?

Can't help you as I drive a manual  but is that a typo of 820000, i.e. 742000 in 12 months?

Ps
Welcome

Hi everyone,
I have a 2019 i30 auto petrol 1.4 T-GDi, done 820000 miles. All services done at dealership and use premium fuel. So I believe plugs are changed at 60k hence less carbon. I owned the car since 78000, just about a year now.
I am noticing a strong shudding when pickup or when moving slow on a slight hill. Once engine came to a stall, similar to when clutch was not balanced properly on a manual. This gets worse when I have more people travelling on my car.

Any clues or anyone experienced this before?

I recently did the warranty check, nothing was detected by the dealership.
I feel this could be related to throttle body, and hopefully not related to automatic gearbox.