i30 Owners Club
MODIFYING OR DETAILING YOUR I30 => ELECTRICAL | ELECTRONIC | AUDIO => Topic started by: batteoui on January 12, 2012, 13:38:20
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Hello,
For my first contribution to this wonderful forum, I want to document addition of cruise control to the I30 1.6 crdi the DIY way
In fact, I had my i30 1.6 crdi 115 which was built on November 2009 in Czech Plant. It came with all goodies like Automatic A/Con, Folding mirrors, Bluetooth, Audio controls, Alloy wheels... but no cruise control. I was really mad about it and took me almost 1.5 years searching for this addition. I asked the dealer here in Casablanca about it but he said this was not possible. I looked in Internet and found it can be done aftermarket by a company called Dankar (the kit cost was like 400 €) but it was unavailable in Morocco.
I ended up looking for a way to do it myself and finished having required schematic diagram for the 1.6 diesel engines cruise control.
What you will need to buy is the cruise control switch on the steering wheel (costed around 35 USD here), and some wires. You then take your courage and proceed with switch mounting (the same process that applies to audio switch which you can find here in the forum) and bring three wires to engine ECU for turning on cruise and two others for instrument panel indication
For now, I succedded into turning the cruise control on but need to add additional two wires for the cruise indication to lit in the instrument panel (I will be doing this shortly).
I will try to add pictures of this mod in coming posts .
Kind regards !
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Sounds good. :goodjob2:
I'm interested to learn is it possible for mine or not.
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is there a posibility of a larger schematic drawing, im finding it hard to read clearly.
Sounds very interesting. More information when finished, with pictures if possible
Thank You,
also a lot of dedication there
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Not sure if the cruise can be turned on on all 1.6 crdi engines (But I assume the ECU have the cruise control fonction but only needs to get the correct signal from switch to turn on).
A first inspection you can do to see if you have a chance to have the function activated.
1. You have a 1.6 crdi engine (U or U-2)
2. Flash a light in instrumentation panel and see if you have the "CRUISE" and "SET" bulb
3. Look under the clutch pedal and see if you have a switch contact on top (this informs the cruise function to disengage if gear is changed)
4. Verify your clock spring and if it has required contacts (see the topic about audio switch in the forum for more info)
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Hi
I also would like to have the cc installed, but was told that it would cost approx 800 Euro :Shocked: so I just forgot about it again.
Maybe I should try to DIY, when the summer comes back.
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Excellent Batteoui :goodjob:
So you are confident you can make it work exactly like a factory one with safety cutoff when you tap the brake?
It was a glowing omission when the CRDi was first released in OZ too.. :disapp:
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Hi Dazzler
So far it is actually working like factory one. Indeed, it is a factory feature that only have been re-activated. Actually braking makes the cruise stop operation as well as pushing clutch pedal and the cancel button on the steering wheel.
All the buttons of the cruise switch work according to the I30 user manual.
I only wait until the weekend so I can finish the setup and have the indication on instrumentation panel to work. I'll be posting a complete tuto with pictures on how did I proceed and for all of the forum members that wish to proceed with this mod.
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great info bat. :goodjob2: :goodjob: I've moved the topic into the how to section. :winker:
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Batteoui well done. Where did you get the wiring diagram from? I'd like a link to the site please.
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Wiring diagrams can be found on hyundai service website at service.hyundai-motor.com
Payment nevertheless is required to give access to their information. I think they charge 5 euro for an hour and up to 900 euro for a year. but you'll find the most complete info from shop manual to TSB .
Good luck
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Hi
I also would like to have the cc installed, but was told that it would cost approx 800 Euro :Shocked: so I just forgot about it again.
Maybe I should try to DIY, when the summer comes back.
It's very labour intensive Asterix, most of this cost will be for labour. :(
I was toying with the idea myself, but the cost put me off
Hyundai have actually stopped offering cruise control for the i30 as an accessory, not sure weather you can purchase the required parts from the dealer.
IN regards to the tell-tale light, I have seen it done with the simple addition of a small green LED mounted on the plastic surround infront of the speedo :)
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Hi Dazzler
So far it is actually working like factory one. Indeed, it is a factory feature that only have been re-activated. Actually braking makes the cruise stop operation as well as pushing clutch pedal and the cancel button on the steering wheel.
All the buttons of the cruise switch work according to the I30 user manual.
I only wait until the weekend so I can finish the setup and have the indication on instrumentation panel to work. I'll be posting a complete tuto with pictures on how did I proceed and for all of the forum members that wish to proceed with this mod.
That will be wonderful :happydance: You will become a very popular member if you do that :mrgreen:
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Sorry guys. Had to remove the wiring diagram due to copyrights !
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Sorry guys. Had to remove the wiring diagram due to copyrights !
Going to be a lot of website forums in trouble then, a lot of schematic posted online, you could re-post it? as long as you claim where it came from, a link to the website etc, it should be okay?? Shambles?
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Sorry guys. Had to remove the wiring diagram due to copyrights !
Hey Shambles can you roll the site back 24 hours I forgot to keep a copy of that diagram :undecided: :lol:
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We've had to take plenty of Hyundai info off our forum (TSBs anyone?) in the past 2-3 years as it is indeed proprietary info protected under copyright :(.
A licence is granted to subscribers to Hyundai's online service to hold a single copy of any material made available under the terms of that licence, but not to reproduce such material. So I guess if batteoui hadn't removed it we'd have yet another HMA/HMCA notice to contend with, eventually.
No, we don't have a copy of the diagram on site :blubber:
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Am I going crazy, or have the wire connection references in the text, been removed also :question:
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Am I going crazy, or have the wire connection references in the text, been removed also :question:
Possibly (on both counts :P), although this might help...
...I'll be posting a complete tuto with pictures on how did I proceed and for all of the forum members that wish to proceed with this mod.
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:Dunno: :mrgreen:
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Helllloooooo everyone !!
As promised, here comes my tuto regarding cruise control activation on i30 1.6 crdi but before doing that please read this disclaimer carefully :
1.All information presented here-in is from personal experience. I can not guarantee the same mod will work for you
2. By doing this mod, just forget about your Hyundai Warranty (I lost mine anyway by not servicing the car at the dealer's workshop :p)
3. I didn't make any references to which pin is which number so I highly recommend you get the wiring diagram from hyundai service website. they will ask you to pay them but it's worth it and you have more than required info) or if you grab a copy of the diagram over the internet, make it at your own risk. Sorry can't post the wiring diagram in this tuto :whistler:
Ok, first of all, I want to thank agentr31 for his excellent tuto about mounting audio controls to the i30. It inspired me to mount the cruise controls
For this mod, you'll need to buy the steering wheel control from Hyundai as the one in the picture
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2996.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2929.jpg)
(In fact, as I didn't find the version of the switch that have only cruise function, I bought the version with cruise and speed limiter but there is a tricky modification you should do to the switch :
The button which activates speed limiter (the upper one) may certainly not be recognizable by the engine ECU, so I decided to modify the PCB and eliminate its resistor (2200 Ohm) and connected its internal wires to another resisor (3900 Ohm) which corresponds to the button that activates cruise function (This way, the two buttons do the same thing. Very tricky ! :cool:)
Unfortunately I didn't take pictures of the PCB at that time so can't really help you, but you'll see it's a relatively easy operation once you open the switch)
First step then to start with is mounting the switch to the steering wheel (agentr31 has already explained in detail how to undo the airbag wires and mount the audio controls so it is exactly the same process)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2944.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2931.jpg)
Now, if you buy also the correct wiring loom (I don't have its part number) it's just simply easy to connect both audio controls and cruise controls into a single connector. That was not unfortunately my case, so I had to slightly modify the switch to add my own wiring loom to share with audio control loom and into the single white connector)
You can see in the following pics the modification I did to the switch :
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2936.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2942.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2954.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2952.jpg)
Now assuming you have the correct clock spring, you simply get the wires from the back of the clock spring and head on to the ECU. Remember, there is 3 wires to connect to the ECU (Find the numbers in the wiring diagram)
So, once you have your 3 wires, find a way to bring them to the engine compartment (that was really pain in the *** to get the wires to the engine compartment as I didn't find a way to it so I simply brought them from under the dash, off the door and into the engine compartment; here is the pics )
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2991.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2992.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2927.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2926.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2925.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2990.jpg)
Ok, now the most painful part (especially for me I didn't have the correct little pins to get to the ECU connector so had to impovise a way to make contact. Guess what !! Connection to the ECU pins are simple wires stuck into the female pin connector :mrgreen: Now when I say I was mad about cruise, I really mean it, see what I've done :evil::
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2982.jpg)
Yep, this is a little wire hanging from the connector, I made sure to bring it a little backward so it won't mess with other pins, it is safe in the female pin connector and makes contact at the same time with the male connector. Well.... what to say ... very artisanal :sweating: but that works
Enough talking ! what you should do :
1. Get the lever up of the ECU connector until you hear a click . The connector can be safely removed from the female housing. Cut the plastic tie in its cover, and insert a small screwdriver on the cavity of the cover and pull it toward you (here is the link to the ECU connector, you will find very detailed info about it :
http://www.te.com/catalog/pn/en/284743-1 (http://www.te.com/catalog/pn/en/284743-1)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2977.jpg)
2. Free space to three of your wires, pins or whatever ... to get contact with the pin connector. The tricky part is to have a long jaw tool to extract the plastic cover which is sticking into your future wires places
See that little long black and white plastic ? This is the type of things to remove. Don't be afraid to pull at all your strenghth though
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2979.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2980.jpg)
2. Insert the wires, the pins or whatever in place and connect to the wires you brought from the clock spring
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2989.jpg)
Here is how it looked like once evrything in place
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2919.jpg)
Now I consider all this, is the first part of the mod and this is actually activating the cruise function (shame on hyundai though not to have offered this addition at the beginning). All safety features are working : brake, clutch pedal, cancel button. I'm a happy i30 owner now and considering how much I paid for this mod, I'm more than happy with it (budget : less than 38 $ :D
The second part of the mod is getting the indication lamp work. I tried to activate it this afternoon but couldn't although i brought in and connected all the wires to instrumentation panel according to diagram. I need to even dig for it in the diagrams as I found there is different connection places that are documented by hyundai especially in the MFI section, so I assume I connected the wired to the wrong place or there is another connection to be done but I will definately be doing it. Here is some pictures I took this afternoon of me trying to activate the second part of the mod :
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2966.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2969.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2968.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN2973.jpg)
Ok. I'm tired now and it's already being late. I will try to add further information of the second part of the mod once I have time to do it. But in the meanwhile, enjoy your almost free addition of cruise control to our beloved i30.
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/DSCN3001.jpg)
Good night !
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That was wonderful :happydance: Thanks so much for doing that :hatoff:
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Fantastic writeup - very easy to follow :goodjob:
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Hello,
I tried to sort out the cruise indication light on the instrument cluster and got the instrument cluster removed from dashbord and opened. I then discovered that the SMD leds are not soldered in nor their corresponding resistors and diode.
I would ask if anyone knows how to pull the instrument cluster needles out (tachometer, RPM counter, temperature and fuel indication), coz I've tried but didn't want to push any further risking to brake them.
Thanks.
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Batteoui, thanks for great information you provided here, just to double check, does your car has U or U2 engine? I’m asking this because in Hyundai service site they provide cruise control diagram for 2009> 1.6 diesel engine, but for 2008 there is only cruise control for petrol car (mine is 2008 1.6 diesel 85kW 115 PS Korean build). But when looking into ECM pinout for the same 2008 diesel, there are pins assigned for cruise control: 14 – Cruise GND, 15-Cruise switch, 24 – Cruise switch power, 49 – cruise SET lamp, 91 – Cruise MAIN lamp. I have checked the ECM connector on my car, and all these pins are free, stuffed with plastic inserts. In cruise control diagram for 2009 car, for engine D4FB pins 9, 89 , 50 , 51 of ECM connector CUD-K and pin 44 of connector CUD-A are for cruise connection ( and those pins are already occupied in my car). I suppose you used those last ones? If your car has U2, then it makes sense why it is different from 2008 engine. By the way, Hyundai service site makes even more confusion, from model list they have i30 (FDe) with model year list 2009-2012, i30 (GDe) with model year 2013 and i30/elantra neos (FD) with model year 2008-2012. FD and FDe have overlapping model years, and for example they have cruise control diagram for year 2009 FDe cars, but not for 2009 FD. I think those are chassis codes, but anyone knows what is the difference between FD and FDe with overlapping model years?
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hi ramunask. I have indeed a U2 engine but I believe that cruise control diagram is valid for both U and U2 engines. I used the pinout numbers 9, 89, 50 from CUD-K to power up the cruise control function and 44 (CUD-A) and 51 (CUD--K) to have the indication on the instrument cluster.
Electric diagram for indication light on the other hand is somewhat bizarre for me (LED is placed between the resistor terminals) don't know if anyone with electrics understaning can say what this kind of setup is supposed to do (attached diagram).
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Just taught it was interesting to post a photoreport on instrument cluster dismantling and take the occasion to ask for help regarding resistor values.
Here is what the instrument cluster looks like from behind
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/20012012526.jpg)
You can simply detach plastic clips to have the instrument cluster opened :
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/20012012527.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/20012012533.jpg)
Here is what the PCB looks like :
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/20012012528.jpg)
A closeup
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/20012012530.jpg)
And here is the indication fr cruise :
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/20012012529.jpg)
Can anybody with installed cruise control please tell me the resistors values for the resistors that are in red and yellow circles ? There is a really tiny resistor besides a bigger one, please let me know what are the numbers written on them (As I want to be sure about what resistance is needed there). Thanks.
Those are the type of diodes used before the current goes to ECU (do anyone knows about their specifications ?)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/20012012541.jpg)
And here you can see the SMD LED (notice there is no led in there for the cruise light)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/20012012535.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/20012012534.jpg)
Didn't removethe gauge needles. Those are the stickiest things I ever seen and didn't want to push any further in order not to brake them.
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thanks for the Photos not something we would often see... :D
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this parallel resistor drops voltage on LED , probably LED's nominal voltage is less then supplied (as I see from diagram it gets +12 V from Fuse box, I guess it's way too much for SMD LED. The second resistor connected in series is for current limitation.
And I doubt that pinouts for U and U2 are the same, at least I'm prety sure it's different on my car. I have checked on my ECU connector CUD-K, the pins 9, 89, 50 ,51 are occupied by wires, and the diagram of ECU in hyundai service site shows that these pins are used for totally different purposes. Were all these pins free on your connector? As I said, there is quite a mess on that site, I guess you have chosen i30 (FDe) as a model there, but it starts from year 2009. I have checked i30 / elantra (FD), that one starts from 2008, but also has 2009 up to 2012, and here they provide different pins for cruise (in fact they are the same as for D4EA engine in the diagram you used as it contains info for both D4BF and D4EA). So I guess I'll have to give it a try myself if my ECU has cruise control software inside. Now about the indication on instrument panel: did you try to measure voltage between these the pins of Cruise ON and Cruise SET pins and positive terminal? It should read some voltage, I guess it should be battery voltage, as from diagram it looks that ECU provides ground when you turn cruise on. At least you will know that the signal from ECU comes to instrument panel.
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as for resistors, I think they will be the same as for other indicators LEDs, they should have some marking on them with nominal.
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Yes there is quit a big mess there in hyundai model labelling I guess or there is something weird we can not understand. On the VIN search feature of the hyundai website, when I search my VIN number, the search returns model FD (i30/elantra neos), but if I look for model FD (i30/elantra neos) I can not find information relative to U-2 engines, where in the VIN parts search feature, it confirms that I have a U-2 engine which is only available if you choose i30 model FDe :eek:
Something you can pay attention to : Model 2010 for example is for cars that were produced starting from around august 2009. Isn't that making confusion ? (You can actually know your car production date on the VIN parts search feature on the parts catalogue)
Another mess there is with wiring diagrams for U-2 engines. In the MFI control section, cruise indication light is connecting M01-A connector of the instrument cluster to the ECU, but in the Autocruise diagram, the indications are connected to M01-C connector !! (which I have tested by multimeter and confirm it is connected to M01-C)
Regarding the pins, they were indeed all free on CUD-K (9,50,51,89) and CUD-A (44).
Thanks for the tip regarding voltage measurement. I'll try to do it and thus make sure that I just need to solder in the missing components
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Just wondered wether I can change the diode and use a round one like the one in the pic ?
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/cruise/21012012542.jpg)
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Should be ok. The shape doesn't matter only it's polarity and operating voltage.
Surface mount resistors (3 number type) shown in the photo 47(2) would be 47 + 2 0's or 4700 ohms. The 3'rd figure is the multiplier.
BTW to show 4.7 ohms, it would be shown as 4R7 :neutral:
As an alternative, have any of you considered making test connections to the ecu to see if you can light up set and cruise led's. If you can, I'd then be inclined to make my own wiring from the ecu to the instrument cluster & disregard the pcb entirely.
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@Batteoui , great job your doing !!
A few weeks ago i started to build-in CC on my 2009 i30 petrol engine with a separate throttle servo .
https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=10530.msg127356#msg127356 (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=10530.msg127356#msg127356)
Did'nt finished it because i want to use the speed signal from the bleu wire on the radio but there was no .
Also the signal from the speed clock could be used .
Can you tell me wich wire at wich connector therefor can be used ?
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@Trust Did you considered getting the speed signal from the OBDII connector ? There is definitely a signal going to that plug. I'll try to search and tell which one to consider
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@Trust VSS or vehicle speed signal you can take it from Pin N°6 on the OBDII connector. This is the same way Dancar CC is using to get information on Vehicle speed.
By the way, you're doing a great job installing the servo to control the throttle ;) Good Luck !
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So, once you have your 3 wires, find a way to bring them to the engine compartment (that was really pain in the *** to get the wires to the engine compartment as I didn't find a way to it so I simply brought them from under the dash, off the door and into the engine compartment; here is the pics )
I have just found the info in one of the Russian forum:
"Turn the wheels to an extreme left position, screw off the blank bolts, that attach mud guard and protective wing guard, curve the latter and there you can find a bunch of wires routed to the cabin"
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Thanks for the tip. I'll make a proper install of everything once I sort out the indication light
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@Trust VSS or vehicle speed signal you can take it from Pin N°6 on the OBDII connector. This is the same way Dancar CC is using to get information on Vehicle speed.
By the way, you're doing a great job installing the servo to control the throttle ;) Good Luck !
At that time i did search it there and did some measurements on that connector but with no result .
I gonna to connect at that pin and see what happens .
Thanks !!
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@Trust, how do you know the VSS is not there on that PIN? I think it is the pulse signal not measurable with standard multimeter.
Batteoui, did you have a chance to measure voltage on Cruise LAMP pin's? I would appreciate this as I'm going to give a test of cruise function presence in my ECU by shorting pins of Cruise POWER and Cruise Switch PINS on ECU with 3900 Ohm resistor (imitation of wheel control Cruise ON/OFF switch) and checking if the voltage changes on Cruise MAIN lamp PIN. I'm just not sure what is the algorithm of ECU, let's say if I turn on the ignition but don't start the engine and imitate ON/OFF switch, should the LAMP be switched on immediately, or the engine needs to be started and some say that clutch needs to be depressed before cruise is switched ON. Would be very thankful if you could help clarifying this out. And is steering wheel cruise ON/OFF switch engaged in ON position (I mean the circuit always closed during ON), or is it a push/release button?
Regarding wire run to the cabin, I think a good place could be the one I pointed on picture attached (I hope it attaches well), looks like this hole should end-up somewhere behind the instrument cluster, now that you have it removed, you can check.
And you can order contacts for ECU connector online, they are cheap (about $0.24/piece), and you will have reliable connection to ECU. The parts numbers are in the manual of connector on www.te.com (http://www.te.com) site that you pointed.
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Hi ramunask
Unfortunately, I didn't test the voltage yet but from observing the way the cruise function is operating in my car, you can turn on the cruise function on even right after engine start (pushing the cruise on button on the steering wheel) but the algorithm in the ECU simply won't set the required speed (pushing the SET button on the steering wheel) until 40km/h is reached. I assume then that the light should come on also.
One interesting idea for you to test with is to construct a temporary board which have simple push buttons with appropriate resistors to simulate the Cruise on, SET, RES and cancel buttons. All the buttons should be push buttons and don't need to remain shortened for the cruise to operate.
Regarding the Hole for the wires, I think they go to the wiper motors but as those are hidden by a plastic cover, I'll need to dismount the cover to see if there is another possibility for the wires to go straight to the cabin.
Could you please let me know which sites are selling the wire contacts for the ECU in individual quantities ? I found some sites selling them but the minimum order quantity was too much (I think something like a 1000 pins or so)
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Without reading every post have you set a failsafe like the genuine CC where it won't engage until the brakes have been pressed at least once? (to ensure they are operational)
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Yes I've read it somewhere in the forum too and can confirm that : CC won't set until brake pedal is pressed at least once after the engine is started. I think it makes sense : The algorithm wants to confirm if the brake switch is operating.
On the other hand, you don't need to add any extra wires for the failsafe checks to operate. All the stuff is being managed by the ECU.
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Thanks for the quick reply... :eek: :goodjob:
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From connector manual I didn't exactly understand which contact we need, MQS clean body or MQS 1.5 clean body, one is square the other is rectangle, I would take both as they are cheap and check which one fits better.
Here are the links where they sell in small quantities:
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-amp-brand_968221-1.html?p=10532351 (http://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-amp-brand_968221-1.html?p=10532351)
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-amp-brand_1241608-1.html?p=10207569 (http://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-amp-brand_1241608-1.html?p=10207569)
It's just that in the links above these contacts are meant for thicker wires (>0.75 mm2), but the ones that are for thinner wires (968220-1 and 1452158-1) are out of stock everywhere I looked and say 14 weeks to wait... But I guess it's not a big deal to have connectors for thicker wire, a small amount of soldering lead will make a proper connection.
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@Trust, how do you know the VSS is not there on that PIN? I think it is the pulse signal not measurable with standard multimeter.
Ramunask , in the installation manual from the "WAECO Magic Speed Cruise controle MS 50" is written that the speed-signal can also be taken from a reedswitch activated by a magnet on the wheel axel .
So i was searching for simple on/off pulse at the OBD conn.
Saturday I'm gonna give it a try .
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I believe you need oscilloscope to monitor this signal, i think this signal should be close to wave form.
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@Trust, how do you know the VSS is not there on that PIN? I think it is the pulse signal not measurable with standard multimeter.
Batteoui, did you have a chance to measure voltage on Cruise LAMP pin's? I would appreciate this as I'm going to give a test of cruise function presence in my ECU by shorting pins of Cruise POWER and Cruise Switch PINS on ECU with 3900 Ohm resistor (imitation of wheel control Cruise ON/OFF switch) and checking if the voltage changes on Cruise MAIN lamp PIN. I'm just not sure what is the algorithm of ECU, let's say if I turn on the ignition but don't start the engine and imitate ON/OFF switch, should the LAMP be switched on immediately, or the engine needs to be started and some say that clutch needs to be depressed before cruise is switched ON. Would be very thankful if you could help clarifying this out. And is steering wheel cruise ON/OFF switch engaged in ON position (I mean the circuit always closed during ON), or is it a push/release button?
Regarding wire run to the cabin, I think a good place could be the one I pointed on picture attached (I hope it attaches well), looks like this hole should end-up somewhere behind the instrument cluster, now that you have it removed, you can check.
And you can order contacts for ECU connector online, they are cheap (about $0.24/piece), and you will have reliable connection to ECU. The parts numbers are in the manual of connector on www.te.com (http://www.te.com) site that you pointed.
I made another attempt to wire the indication light for the CRUISE and SET to light. Weird enough, I found also that there is SMD leds for both ESP and ESP OFF although my car doesn't have ESP. I just thought of desoldering these SMDs and solder them in for the cruise indication but got again the gauge needles preventing me from accessing to the face of the PCB; so I tried contructing my own wiring and thus soldered a 470 Ohm resistor to a standard 5mm Green LED and a diode. I then painfully put the LED in place. Tested this setup with a 3,7 V battery, it worked and got the indication lit.
Now when I connected back the instrument cluster, pushed the cruise button with engine started, no indication came up. Thought that car has to be on cruise mode, so I drove to 60 Km/h, pushed again the button, Cruise has engaged but no light came up. Now I suspect a pin that I placed on the female connector not having firm contact with the male pin on the instrument cluster or :
1. ECU somehow needs to get a specific current to recognize that it need to light the indication (I wonder why in the diagram there is two resistors connected in series. I assume the first one is connected in parallel with the LED to reduce the current, but this same resistor is connected in series at the same time with another resistor. Are they meant to reduce Voltage as well if my understanding is right ?)
2. Light is somehow driven by a CAN signal from ECU (I don't believe much this option as in the diagram, there is no connection to any MICOM component)
@ramunask : If I test the voltage between the fuse and pin from ECU, I'm afraid the high current will damage the ECU as it is intended to receive a really small current and voltage. Can you please tell me how I can do that safely ?
Thanks
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batteoui, by measuring voltage you will not damage anything, voltmeter has high impedance and no current flows between measured points. Little example, when you measure voltage in your wall socket, it doesn't get shorted, right? Don't worry, voltage measurement will not do any harm. Or you can measure voltage on LED legs (if there is enough room for that). If voltage is present here, might be that you soldered LED the wrong direction (remember that LED is diode and needs to be connected the right way , Anode to negative, kathode positive)
I wrote about the purpose of each resistor in one of my previous posts, the parallel one drops voltage, the one connected in series limits current. Again, check voltage between battery + terminal (or anywhere positive terminal, might be fuse box...) and ecu lamp terminal.
And according to diagram at hyundai service site, there is no CAN involved in this circuit.
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Thanks ramunask. That convinced me (I don't have deep eletricial/electronic knowledge) I'll be measuring the voltage and thus know what is going wrong with my setup. I'll keep you informed accordingly.
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HeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeHHhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa !!!!
I did it :happydance: :happydance: :happydance:
I've just constructed a test rig (470 Ohm (parallel to a tiny LED ) with a 1000 Ohm in series and a current blocking diode), connected the Positive wire to a cigarette lighter and the negative wire to the wire coming from ECU (wire which is supposed to give lighting signal) and that Works. The led shed its light once I hit the button for engaging cruise. I then connected the test rig to the other wire to light the SET button and drove over 40 Km/h and switched the button SET and guess what... ?... the light came on. That was a real relief to have everything working :sweating:
Now tomorrow I'll be finalising the setup and mounting the LEDs to the instrument cluster. I'll post a full review with pictures once it's done.
Cheers !
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Oh wait ! tomorrow we have Morocco Vs Gabon at CAN cup. I'll be finalizing the setup over the weekend.
Hope only Morocco wins :goodjob2:
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Sounds like you guys are having fun :eek:
...tomorrow I'll be finalising the setup and mounting the LEDs to the instrument cluster. I'll post a full review with pictures once it's done.
I'll hold you to that :goodjob:
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I've just finalised installing the instrument cluster indication for both "CRUISE" and "SET". As promised here are the pics :
As I couldn't risk to remove the gauges needles, It's been a little bit tricky to have the LEDs installed. I finished cracking the plastic of the instrument cluster to allow enough space for them to be installed at the right place.
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/indication/indication_005.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/indication/indication_004.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/indication/indication_001.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/indication/indication_003.jpg)
Here is the LEDs once installed :
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/indication/indication_002.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/indication/indication_007.jpg)
And the LEDs shining : (I only had white LEDs at hand, maybe I'll change or another colour in the future)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/indication/indication_009.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/indication/indication_010.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/indication/indication_011.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/indication/indication_013.jpg)
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/batteoui/indication/indication_014.jpg)
Now my venture came to an end. I have a fully working OEM cruise :happydance:. Considering how much I paid for it and how much fun I had, It was definitely worth the time I spent on that project.
If you feel you're confident enough to test and have the cruise installed by DIY. I fully recommand to get the wiring diagram. Without it, I'd never tried to activate cruise by myself.
Having succedded in that project, now I'm looking forward to working on other DIY projects :evil: (For a time I thought about adding ESP :rofl:), but that wouldn't have been a piece of cake. I should review my ambitions or just have a long break before thinking on something else.
Enjoy and good luck !!!
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Congratulations and well done... thanks for taking the time to do the photo's... I am well impressed :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:
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Thanks again batteoui much appreciated :hatoff:
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@Trust, how do you know the VSS is not there on that PIN? I think it is the pulse signal not measurable with standard multimeter.
I believe you need oscilloscope to monitor this signal, i think this signal should be close to wave form.
And after making all the connections and gone perfect trough the test sequence , no result from the ODB signal .
Still looking for that certain connection on the speedmeter .
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batteoui, if you turn on the ignition but don't start the engine and press the cruise "on" button, does the cruise main light go on?
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yes it does. Only the SET buton doesn't come on as you need to exceed 40 km/h.
Did you activate the cruise on your car ?. If so, let's have feedback on how easy the operation was.
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thanks, batteoui. I didn't install cruise yet, it's quite freezy here in Lithuania (-1 degree Celsius in my garage, -20 outside), I'll wait for warm up :) Just trying to collect all information needed, I even got a donor ECU connector from break apart car for spare pins, will report once I get the results.
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I have made a test on whether ECU on my car has Cruise control functionality, and to my big disappointment it looks like it doesn't. I have tried shorting "cruise power" pin with "Cruise switch" pin via 3900 ohm resistor imitating wheel switch on/off and measure the voltage on Cruise main lamp pin while ignition ON, there was no change in voltage on lamp pin. I guess it is for a reason they do not provide cruise control diagram on hyundai service site for a model 2008. Well, I guess I will have to go for something like this http://hyundai-i30-estate.sgpetch.co.uk/pages/accessories/detail/model=178/category=ROOT-interior/accessory=Cruise+Control/id=4807, (http://hyundai-i30-estate.sgpetch.co.uk/pages/accessories/detail/model=178/category=ROOT-interior/accessory=Cruise+Control/id=4807,) as far as I know it has separate control unit.
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Gets a bit complicated for DIY doesn't it :undecided:
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very good!!!!
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Can I buy this switch?
I have 1.4 petrol engine
http://www.hyundai-car.co.uk/accessories/practical/?modelName=i30+Estate&ref=222 (http://www.hyundai-car.co.uk/accessories/practical/?modelName=i30+Estate&ref=222)
This is the part number ?
E96002L020
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Can I buy this switch?
I have 1.4 petrol engine
http://www.hyundai-car.co.uk/accessories/practical/?modelName=i30+Estate&ref=222 (http://www.hyundai-car.co.uk/accessories/practical/?modelName=i30+Estate&ref=222)
This is the part number ?
E96002L020
It says it's for diesel models only, so probably no good for your car, nikitas. There must be an equivalent part for petrol models.
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Sorry guys. Had to remove the wiring diagram due to copyrights !
Hey Shambles can you roll the site back 24 hours I forgot to keep a copy of that diagram :undecided: :lol:
Hi,
insted of publishing the diagram from hyundai service, could you perhaps describe what needs to be connected from spring clock to the ECU.
you know? from Spring clock pin. 1. to ECU pin. 12, etc. They cannot make copyright on that.
For it seems that Hyundai has removed everything relating to Cruse control from their service side. :disapp:
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the didiferences between 967002L3504X and 967002L4004X
http://hyundai-club.com.ua/showthread.php?t=24750&page=9 (http://hyundai-club.com.ua/showthread.php?t=24750&page=9)
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the didiferences between 967002L3504X and 967002L4004X
http://hyundai-club.com.ua/showthread.php?t=24750&page=9 (http://hyundai-club.com.ua/showthread.php?t=24750&page=9)
Any idea where from UK I can get cruise control switch and how much it will be?Thanks
Regards Gogov
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Finaly completed my CC installation (i30 1600 16V petrol) with the WAECO SD50
At Hyundaiboard.de I found a link (with the wiring plan) to the american Hyundai Elantra specs , wich are simular to the i30
There I found out wich pin at the instrument cluster is the speedsignal .
Its a simple on/off puls , tested with a OMRON pulse counter , I found out that it gives appprox. 2500 p/km .
So I ordered the CC switches and the cable for the steeringwheel an modified them to fit to the WAECO system .
Opening the waeco switchpanel shows that the ON/OFF button is a direct switch between the orange wire and the braun wire .
The SET button is a direct switch between the orange wire and the yellow wire and the RESET button connects the orange via a 1K5 resitor to the blue wire .
Therefore I opened the Hyundai switch and removed R1 , R3 , R4 and R5 and placed a 1K5 , closed it and put it in the steeringwheel .
I use only those 3 buttons , so the 2 other buttons are not connected to anything .
As I mentioned before , my clockspring was already prepared (thank you hyundai) so I also connected the new cable in the wheel .
I cutted open the connector from the old cable that was connected to the clockspring , to get out the pins (and wires) for use them to expand (orange , braun and blue) the connection at the other clockspring connector at the steering column .
Waeco delivers a green led for showing the system is ON but like others , I disliked that .
So I opened the instrument cluster and also tried to remove the needles , indeed battoui , very tricky , so I also gave up to that .
I drilled two 5mm holes trough the light shafts and 6.5 mm in the casing to put two leds in for the CRUISE and SET sign , connected them via a 1K resistor to a point at the circuitbord of the cluster where the switched 12 V comes in.
At the other ends of those leds I connected the green wire comming from the waeco streering unit that delivers a minus (ground) when the system is ON .
Since waeco has only one light signal , I let CRUISE and SET light at the same time .
Going through the WAECO test procedure , shows everything was OK .
And it is !!
I'm loving to have cruisecontrol back again (as I has on my Renault Laguna)
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Thanks Trust :goodjob: (only thing that would be better if pix were hosted on a site like Photobucket so they don't get lost if we have a site meltdown) :sweating: (that would allow them to be bigger too.....)
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I have made a test on whether ECU on my car has Cruise control functionality, and to my big disappointment it looks like it doesn't. I have tried shorting "cruise power" pin with "Cruise switch" pin via 3900 ohm resistor imitating wheel switch on/off and measure the voltage on Cruise main lamp pin while ignition ON, there was no change in voltage on lamp pin. I guess it is for a reason they do not provide cruise control diagram on hyundai service site for a model 2008. Well, I guess I will have to go for something like this http://hyundai-i30-estate.sgpetch.co.uk/pages/accessories/detail/model=178/category=ROOT-interior/accessory=Cruise+Control/id=4807, (http://hyundai-i30-estate.sgpetch.co.uk/pages/accessories/detail/model=178/category=ROOT-interior/accessory=Cruise+Control/id=4807,) as far as I know it has separate control unit.
Hi,
On hyundai service site my car comes as a 2009 (FDe) model but compering the wiring with the one for cars from 2009 to 2011 my one is totally different but I don't have the right one so I'm guessing the diagram for my car should be same with the one for 2008 but before attempting any test to the ECU I wish to ask if somebody has a diagram to send it to me please as a have one only for 2009-2011.Thanks!
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Hi,
You will need to install "SVG Viewer" and use with Internet Explorer to see the diagrams. All Cruise diagrams are still present at hyundai Website.
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Thank you very much for the tutorial, I have been searching for the button so that once you have put me to work! Thank you!
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Hi,
You will need to install "SVG Viewer" and use with Internet Explorer to see the diagrams. All Cruise diagrams are still present at hyundai Website.
Great post, I have been following your steps and have looked at the wiring diagrams from Hyundai web and my car is suitable for this modification also. As soon as I get the parts I will begin with it.
The only doubtI have is about the connectors identification. I have located the proper pins for the ECU connectorbased on your info, but when I tried to do the same with the other connectors I am not able to trace from the Hyundai codes to vendor PN.
For example I have the spring clutch connector which is identified as M02R and it is suposed to be a AMP_025_12F_W. In the manual it explains that AMP is the vendor code, but I didn't find any place where the code AMP was crossed with a manufacturer. Where is that information?
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:wttc: korgo.
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I'm attemting to do the install myself on my hyundai i30 CRDI 2009
I bought a leather steering wheel with radio and cruise controls at the wreckers.
a few questions to the expert members here.
1) Does anyone know the part number for the cable that goes from the clock spring to the ECU?
2) Is there any way to easily test the dash lights to see whether they have the CRUISE and SET lights there or not?
3) is there any way to test the ECU to make sure its compatible with cruise control, before i keep spending money?
thanks
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Hi Kroner,
I can only help a little bit..
I would have thought the cruise and set lights would light up for a second when you first start the car if they were present (as per any other car) although they may be disabled if your model didn't have cruise as standard.
I think it was late 2008 or early 2009 when they finally developed a cruise module for the diesel model (the petrol slx and sr got it from day one). So be careful you get the right one.
Can't help with your other questions, sorry...
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... there was no change in voltage on lamp pin. I guess it is for a reason they do not provide cruise control diagram on hyundai service site for a model 2008.
Hi Ramunask!
Have you ever tried to repeat this test? Why did you expect voltage at this pin? This is open collector output so it changes it's impedance (it "opens" towards neutral) to lit the led. I'll try to repeat your test
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Well, well, well - i did the test and... it doesn't work :wacko:
Both led's are slightly bright because they get 9,5V on the cathode (they are not set "on").
All voltages seems to be OK.
Still thinking it can be done ...
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Well, well, well - i did the test and... it doesn't work :wacko:
Both led's are slightly bright because they get 9,5V on the cathode (they are not set "on").
All voltages seems to be OK.
Still thinking it can be done ...
:fingers:
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Some evidence...
(http://www.piejar.republika.pl/images/CC1.jpg)
(http://www.piejar.republika.pl/images/CC2.jpg)
(http://www.piejar.republika.pl/images/CC3.jpg)
All measured voltages were OK. Only one thing differs - clutch switch is working completely opposite to docs: contact is closed when pedal is released. Hyundai docs say that released pedal gives open contact. Is this any clue?
Have the same situation like Ramunask - I've D4FB 90BHP engine but MCI computer pins fit to D4EA (2l engine). My i30cw is model year 2009 but produced in 2008 (Korea)
Pins
descript batteoui me
Cruise switch 9 15
Cruise ground 89 14
Cruise switch power 50 24
Cruise LED 51 91
SET LED 44 49
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Hi Jarek. How did you open the connector? I've struggled and couldnt get it open, and did not want to risk breaking it.
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I've already bought and fitted new steering wheel with CC buttons. Fortunately my steering wheel spring has enough wires. I've also done telephone research through Hyundai services in my region. One said, that mu ECU doesn't have CC feature. One said, can chceck but it costs 120 PLN (some 40 USD). My hope is dying :fum:
I'm looking for aftermarket modules and found AS800 for 250 PLN (some 80 USD). Seems veeery cheap. Strange, that I can't find ANY wiring diagrams for AP800 on the net. Looks like this knowledge is precious :P
What are your ECU numbers?
Mine are: 0 281 015 712 39106-2A716 C0FLCT2EI04U 25U 39106-2A716
Here you are :-) Photos...
Little "hook" then move cap forward
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/CC4.jpg)
Pull pink lock out. Be careful, no to pull wires too hard. You can pull them out - not easily, but seems possible.
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/CC5.jpg)
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Finally, I gave up.
I decided to buy second hand AP800 for some 130 USD. Some guy on auction portal divided AP800's boxes to 2 auctions :lol: and tried to sell it separately. Probably wasn't aware what's selling :P. I think it's good offer. Second hand AP800 are nearly impossible to buy, AP900 is very expensive.
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After weeks of thinking and researching and 2 days of hard work I got it running :happydance: !!! CC works fine, it needs some adjustments but keeps on rockin' :P
My installation is still "under construction" but will be much better, with steering via steering wheel and LEDs on dashboard.
Installign this was real TORMENT!!! I haven't had proper harness nor proper schema.
I'll describe this in details but not today :victory:
Some evidence ...
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/CC11.jpg)
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/CC12.jpg)
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/CC13.jpg)
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/CC14.jpg)
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/DB1.jpg)
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/DB2.jpg)
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So far, so good. It's always a big job. Well done for a successful achievement. :goodjob2: :goodjob: :hatoff:
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Gratulacje, Jarek. You should be very proud. :happydance: :victory:
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Since waeco has only one light signal , I let CRUISE and SET light at the same time .
If you have this control unit, there is "SET" signal avaliable! I found it - because it turns on the red LED located inside my stalk (inside!!! - what for???). There is little complication because this LED is in serial with zener diode (I put 5,1V and 100 ohm resistor for safety) and without it, you can't turn this CC on. I lost two hours for this riddle - why my CC doesn't work witn non-original stalk (i mean Hyundai steering wheel buttons)?? Probably this zener diode "means" something for CC module.
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/CC12.jpg)
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Hey Jarek,
What about a Dual colour diode to indicate each state :idea: :exclaim:
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Dual colour is not a problem. The problem is to find TWO signals to turn each colour on :)
But dual colour LED mounted outside dashboard (ie in plastic above steering column) is much easier than rewiring dashboard module. It's risky, I got my speedometer pointer off maybe 10 times. Horror.
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If you had a red / green combo, you could set red on by default all the time and green when in cruise mode with only one signal to activate the green.
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Why not try matching the factory display behaviour? Red for cruise on and green for cruise set? Surely there is some voltage level on some pin on any CC system to provide this with a bit of probing. A dark LED can then mean CC off. :victory:
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:agoodidea:
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Honestly, I have never seen factory CC colors :P
Mine are: yellow for CC on (CRUISE) and blue for cruise engaged (SET).
The point for me, was, that original cruise stalk had only one visible LED, it was green, and lit when cruise was ON (=CRUISE led). My stalk, had no visible indicator for SET state - this info is important for me. Fortunately, I found proper pin on AP800 with this info.
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Honestly, I have never seen factory CC colors :P
Mine are: yellow for CC on (CRUISE) and blue for cruise engaged (SET).
The point for me, was, that original cruise stalk had only one visible LED, it was green, and lit when cruise was ON (=CRUISE led). My stalk, had no visible indicator for SET state - this info is important for me.
The factory behaviour for the i30 is to show CRUISE when on and CRUISE SET when set, in the bottom right of the dial face. The choice of colours is arbitrary and only a suggestion.
Fortunately, I found proper pin on AP800 with this info.
Does that mean you can use that pin to illuminate an LED?
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OK, here's the explanation :happydance:
CC SET info is avaliable on green pin. That zener diode is necessary - without it, CC doesn't start (CC ON button not working). Lost 2 hours to find it out :P. I also added 150 ohm resistor for safety in case of short connection to body.
My stalk:
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/mystalk.jpg)
My stalk inside:
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/stalkinside.jpg)
My stalk schema:
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/mystalkschema.jpg)
AP800 stalk pins:
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/AP800stalkpins.jpg)
If anybody has CM35 stalk, with two memories, we could determine what pins are used for memory. I tried to find it - no success.
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You do need to be very careful with cruise control, it is a bit of a minefield. Several members have had ongoing issues (going into limp home mode etc.. ) due to aftermarket CC malfunctions... Just saying. :cool:
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Looking at the stalk, unless you want to go drilling new holes in it, which I don't think you do, you need to use the existing led to display 4 states :-
State 1 CC off - LED Off
State 2 CC on but not set - Led Colour 1 (your choice of colour), say Green.
State 3 CC set - Led Colour 2 (your choice of colour), say Blue.
State 4 CC in use and in control of vehicle speed - Led Colour 3 (your choice of colour), say Red.
This would suggest that the led needs to be replaced with an RGB type.
You may need a switching transistors to ensure that multiple Led colours are not active at the same time, or you may choose to use multiple colours to display a particular colour, your choice.
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The internal red CC Set LED is a bonus not currently visible. You can use that LED as part of your display. You may even get away with setting the two as a single indicator and let the two colours mix, by putting them together just behind the hole. I don't think CC Set and CC In Control is any different. :victory:
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You do need to be very careful with cruise control, it is a bit of a minefield. Several members have had ongoing issues (going into limp home mode etc.. ) due to aftermarket CC malfunctions... Just saying. :cool:
I can confirm. After first day of installing process I had to get into garage in limp mode - my throttle did not work. Fortuately, next day I found out why :) Self installing is my advantage - I know what and how is done. In 3 minutes I can restore original throttle circuit.
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Button connected, hyundai i30 2009 crdi automatic transmission (Czech assembly) (vin tmadc51sbaj091957) but the problem is no free ecu pins (№ ecu 39113-2a406 90fd400atveria1u), tell me where to connect or who have pinout ECM
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Alexex - check PM
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Jarek check PM!
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Jarek check -piejar(at)poczta.onet.pl
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Hello i30 owners,
I've already installed CC like as batteoui, but CC doesn't work :blubber:
My car is equipped by Diesel Engine 1600 CC - U (2007 year, Korean build).
According to the information on the forum Cruise Control should be connected to the ECU on pins 89, 9, 50, but in my case they are not accessible. I guess it is the same situation as ramunask and Jarek:
Batteoui, thanks for great information you provided here, just to double check, does your car has U or U2 engine? I’m asking this because in Hyundai service site they provide cruise control diagram for 2009> 1.6 diesel engine, but for 2008 there is only cruise control for petrol car (mine is 2008 1.6 diesel 85kW 115 PS Korean build). But when looking into ECM pinout for the same 2008 diesel, there are pins assigned for cruise control: 14 – Cruise GND, 15-Cruise switch, 24 – Cruise switch power, 49 – cruise SET lamp, 91 – Cruise MAIN lamp. I have checked the ECM connector on my car, and all these pins are free, stuffed with plastic inserts. In cruise control diagram for 2009 car, for engine D4FB pins 9, 89 , 50 , 51 of ECM connector CUD-K and pin 44 of connector CUD-A are for cruise connection ( and those pins are already occupied in my car). I suppose you used those last ones? If your car has U2, then it makes sense why it is different from 2008 engine. By the way, Hyundai service site makes even more confusion, from model list they have i30 (FDe) with model year list 2009-2012, i30 (GDe) with model year 2013 and i30/elantra neos (FD) with model year 2008-2012. FD and FDe have overlapping model years, and for example they have cruise control diagram for year 2009 FDe cars, but not for 2009 FD. I think those are chassis codes, but anyone knows what is the difference between FD and FDe with overlapping model years?
Some evidence...
All measured voltages were OK. Only one thing differs - clutch switch is working completely opposite to docs: contact is closed when pedal is released. Hyundai docs say that released pedal gives open contact. Is this any clue?
Have the same situation like Ramunask - I've D4FB 90BHP engine but MCI computer pins fit to D4EA (2l engine). My i30cw is model year 2009 but produced in 2008 (Korea)
Pins
descript batteoui me
Cruise switch 9 15
Cruise ground 89 14
Cruise switch power 50 24
Cruise LED 51 91
SET LED 44 49
I connected CC to the 15, 14 and 24 pins, but it doesn't work. Does anyone know what could be the reason?
Thanks in advance!
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:welcome: Sorry I can't help, hopefully someone can.. :fingers:
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Sergea, I have 1600 U engine from 2008 and I don't have CC in my ECU. So I added external CC on AP800 modules. Finally I ensured myself on lack of CC when I checked folders from 2009 - CC wasn't avaliable at all at that time, even as an option. It maybe was possible in 2,0 engine but it was mechanical solution. I czn help you on AP800 installation but it's a bit complicated :-)
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Sergea, I have 1600 U engine from 2008 and I don't have CC in my ECU. So I added external CC on AP800 modules. Finally I ensured myself on lack of CC when I checked folders from 2009 - CC wasn't avaliable at all at that time, even as an option. It maybe was possible in 2,0 engine but it was mechanical solution. I czn help you on AP800 installation but it's a bit complicated :-)
Hi Jarek,
Thanks for reply!
How did you verify that you don't have CC in your ECU?
I read that there is no electronic throttle control in petrol engines, therefore it needs an external module of CC. Might it be it needs just reconfiguration of ECU in my case?
I bought 967002L3504X buttons and 2 cables: one for connecting to the buttons (2 pins are spliced with audio cable, 3 pins are plugged into audio(multifunction switch) connector according to the scheme). The second cable is plugged into the ECU contact group (under the steering wheel) according to the scheme. And then it is inserted into the connector block of ECU (near the engine air filter). According to scheme: 9 (signal), 89 (ground) and 50 (+ power) pins in the ECU should be free, and in my case they are occupied. Came to the conclusion that I have other pins and connected according to the information in the forum:
CUD-K:
14 | Ground Cruise | Control Switch (this is 89 - ground)
15 | Cruise Control 'ACTIVATOR' signal input | Cruise Control Switch (this is 15 - signal)
24 | Sensor power (+5 V) | Cruise Control Switch (this is 50 - +power)
49 | Cruise Control 'SET' Lamp control output | Cruise Control 'SET' Lamp (Cluster) (it's still void)
91 | Cruise Control 'MAIN' Lamp control output | Cruise Control 'MAIN' Lamp (Cluster) (it's still void)
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I have been following this thread and have seen no mention of the Dancar website
http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH130M.pdf (http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH130M.pdf)
http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH241.pdf (http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH241.pdf)
which includes CC schematics showing electric connections for all i30 models that Dancar supply the parts.
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I have been following this thread and have seen no mention of the Dancar website
http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH130M.pdf (http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH130M.pdf)
http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH241.pdf (http://www.dancar.dk/PDF/JKH241.pdf)
which includes CC schematics showing electric connections for all i30 models that Dancar supply the parts.
Thanks for links, Baradeur.
But 420 eur (http://webshop.dancar.dk/shop/cruise-control-kit-192p.html) is very expensive for me :(
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Good job baradeur but this is kind of "paralell" cc installation - it doesn't need cc in ECU. I have similar installation with AP800 module.
Sergea, look for second option (batteoui vs me). Honestly, I think you don't have cc in your ECU because you've very "mature" car :-)
You are right, Dancar's modules are veeery expensive. But here you can buy second handed AP800 for 10 GBP :-)
:link: TOYOTA COROLLA VERSO PRZEKA?NIK MODU? TEMPOMATU (4441918357) - Allegro.pl - Wi?cej ni? aukcje. (http://allegro.pl/toyota-corolla-verso-przekaznik-modul-tempomatu-i4441918357.html)
Unfortunately they probably don't have second module (throttle module)
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Jarek,
Yes, you are right - your option is more attractive. Could you please describe more detail which parts I should buy?
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Good job baradeur but this is kind of "paralell" cc installation - it doesn't need cc in ECU. I have similar installation with AP800 module.
Sergea, look for second option (batteoui vs me). Honestly, I think you don't have cc in your ECU because you've very "mature" car :-)
You are right, Dancar's modules are veeery expensive. But here you can buy second handed AP800 for 10 GBP :-)
:link: TOYOTA COROLLA VERSO PRZEKA?NIK MODU? TEMPOMATU (4441918357) - Allegro.pl - Wi?cej ni? aukcje. (http://allegro.pl/toyota-corolla-verso-przekaznik-modul-tempomatu-i4441918357.html)
Unfortunately they probably don't have second module (throttle module)
Jarek, Why do I need a second module (throttle module)?
Accorrding with QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE (http://app.dunyoung.com/AP9HBCAN/download/AP900Ci_QuicklyGuide_v1_130416_bro.pdf) for AP900Ci I nedd for:
1. CC module (AP800 / AP900 / AP900Ci)
2. Wires to Command Module, OBD-II (DLC) plug, the +15 wire, T-harness to the throttle pedal.
3. Command Module (Can I use original hyundai buttons?)
Could you please confirm it and describe more detail your solution?
Thanks in advance!
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AP900 is "new generation" idea. It comunicates with ECU by digital interface. Taht's why there's no need for t-harness to the throttle. Send me your private mail to PM and i'll send you some files.
You can use your CC buttons on steering wheel but there's necessary some rewiring inside button module to emulate AP800' stalk (i've done this)
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Hi guys, I'm attempting the DIY factory cruise and all the information I need is on here except for which pins to use in the clockspring plug to connect the wires from the ECU. The photos just aren't clear enough, and I don't have access to a shop manual or wiring diagram. I've got the clockspring, steering wheel wiring loom and steering wheel buttons for both the stereo and the cruise control installed and the stereo buttons are working. I've run a multi-conductor wire from the engine compartment to the steering column through the firewall without having to drill or modify anything because I wanted a cleaner install (I found the factory wiring location which is actually fairly easy to use - I'll post pictures later). Now all I have to do is connect the wires at the clockspring and ECU but am stumped at the clockspring connector. Can anybody provide pictures and/or info for that? Thanks in advance!
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I waited a year for the i30 SLX CRDi to come with CC as standard. Good luck with the job! :victory:
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The "pedestrian" version of clock spring will have a single row of connectors, 4 pins in total in the middle of the connector. The other version (the one you want and most likely have to get) has two rows of connectors. The aftermarket e-cruise unit I fitted in my CW from Autostrada had wiring with loose pins to be pushed into the existing connector under the steering wheel. I guess you could solder on wires to the new pins if the clockspring is out of the vehicle
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Hi guys, I'm attempting the DIY factory cruise and all the information I need is on here except for which pins to use in the clockspring plug to connect the wires from the ECU. The photos just aren't clear enough, and I don't have access to a shop manual or wiring diagram. I've got the clockspring, steering wheel wiring loom and steering wheel buttons for both the stereo and the cruise control installed and the stereo buttons are working. I've run a multi-conductor wire from the engine compartment to the steering column through the firewall without having to drill or modify anything because I wanted a cleaner install (I found the factory wiring location which is actually fairly easy to use - I'll post pictures later). Now all I have to do is connect the wires at the clockspring and ECU but am stumped at the clockspring connector. Can anybody provide pictures and/or info for that? Thanks in advance!
Hi,
You can find out which pin out is for which cable by removing the airbag and folowing the Cruise control cables on the clock spring! Also to be 100% sure just use multimeter to confirm each pin on the clock spring by measuring from clockspring from both sides! I did that probably more than 1year ago but can't tell you exactly what was. Sorry for my bad writing due to English language is not my firs language.Please share after that for experience.Thanks!
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:judges: for your English. :agoodjob:
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Hi guys, I'm attempting the DIY factory cruise and all the information I need is on here except for which pins to use in the clockspring plug to connect the wires from the ECU. The photos just aren't clear enough, and I don't have access to a shop manual or wiring diagram. I've got the clockspring, steering wheel wiring loom and steering wheel buttons for both the stereo and the cruise control installed and the stereo buttons are working. I've run a multi-conductor wire from the engine compartment to the steering column through the firewall without having to drill or modify anything because I wanted a cleaner install (I found the factory wiring location which is actually fairly easy to use - I'll post pictures later). Now all I have to do is connect the wires at the clockspring and ECU but am stumped at the clockspring connector. Can anybody provide pictures and/or info for that? Thanks in advance!
Hi,
You can find out which pin out is for which cable by removing the airbag and folowing the Cruise control cables on the clock spring! Also to be 100% sure just use multimeter to confirm each pin on the clock spring by measuring from clockspring from both sides! I did that probably more than 1year ago but can't tell you exactly what was. Sorry for my bad writing due to English language is not my firs language.Please share after that for experience.Thanks!
That's what I originally thought I would do, but that still doesn't tell me which wire goes to which button. In other words, I can figure out which three clockspring pins to use, but not which of those three clockspring pins goes to which ECU pin. I suppose I can try trial and error, but I'd rather not risk damaging the ECU and it would make for a long day of switching wires and test driving. I don't have the benefit of the dash LEDs to help me - that will be Stage III only after I'm sure the cruise control works.
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As promised, photos of getting the wiring through the firewall.
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pjIwIufnzhw/VERJepkqbkI/AAAAAAAABPc/qUWvH-kHRiE/w1437-h585-no/1.JPG)
#1: The cover for the big grommet, located on the firewall just to the driver's side of the heater hoses. The white wire is the one I added.
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ruLqmW_T22Q/VERJflWHX6I/AAAAAAAABPs/8nlXTDs5-20/w1220-h803-no/2.JPG)
#2: The two 10mm nuts you'll need to remove to get the cover and grommet off. Just keep pulling firmly and wiggling - that big grommet has to release from the hole.
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LG4rHxsRRgg/VERJflJbYiI/AAAAAAAABPo/jEVBE6U6hu4/w1437-h794-no/3.JPG)
#3: The cover and grommet separated from the hole.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M4PtuSZ1GpA/VERJhVVPxgI/AAAAAAAABP0/7tyA-ifoM34/w1070-h803-no/4.JPG)
#4: Push a Phillips screwdriver (preferably one without sharp edges) from the cabin side of the grommet alongside the bundle of wires and out through the tape to clear a path for the new wire.
I couldn't get a good viewing angle on this, and actually did it mostly by feel. The point of the screwdriver came out just below the point of the red arrow, out of view of the camera. After much frustration with various attempts at fishing the wire through, the way I finally got it through the grommet was to tape it to a medium flat-blade screwdriver and push it through from the engine side. I then carefully separated the screwdriver from the wire by (CAREFULLY! It was mostly by feel) cutting the tape and pulled it on through. Then it's elementary to poke the wire through that huge hole and retrieve it under the dash.
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DT884cBDZf4/VERJiCdvjnI/AAAAAAAABQA/V3e22hqKg7Y/w1328-h674-no/5.JPG)
The ECU plug end of the wires, just to show the multiple conductors. Makes for a cleaner install, but ultimately I'll want to replace this with a 5-conductor so I can run the dash LEDs off it too. This only has 4 conductors. I also would prefer black, so it doesn't stand out so much in the engine compartment. EDIT: It occurs to me that an ideal cable would be ethernet: 6 conductors, no thicker than the one I'm using and the twisted pairs resist electrical interference. Also comes in several colors.
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ViZJ5qZL0WY/VERJioFZAyI/AAAAAAAABQE/fPccRHm5-F0/w1070-h803-no/6.JPG)
The steering column end. I had way more length than I needed, just to be safe. My index finger is touching the clockspring plugs.
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5k5nKKb-_S8/VERJj9vP-FI/AAAAAAAABQM/cDrJrWMFRF4/w1247-h803-no/7.JPG)
This was just a test fit, but shows basically the final run of the new wire. I hadn't actually attached the ECU end yet, it was just shoved under the edge of the cover. I used slivers of the removed insulation from the wire to shove down beside the little wires inside their holes in the ECU plug to jam them into place and help keep moisture out.
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For the record, it may have just been defective, but that part #56190 2L300 for the audio controls-only steering wheel wiring didn't work for me. I installed it and nothing happened, not even the button backlights. (I accidentally ordered that one instead of the audio+cruise wiring.) When I installed the one I actually needed, #56190-2L500, the backlights for both the audio and cruise buttons started working and the audio controls worked perfectly.
Just 3 wires on the steering column and I should be in business with the cruise as well! :goodjob2:
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Thanks wolfmane, good posting! :goodjob:
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:whsaid:
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For the record, it may have just been defective, but that part #56190 2L300 for the audio controls-only steering wheel wiring didn't work for me. I installed it and nothing happened, not even the button backlights. (I accidentally ordered that one instead of the audio+cruise wiring.) When I installed the one I actually needed, #56190-2L500, the backlights for both the audio and cruise buttons started working and the audio controls worked perfectly.
Just 3 wires on the steering column and I should be in business with the cruise as well! :goodjob2:
Hi,
Here is the link where you can find what you are looking for! :link: ????? ???????? ?? 1,6 CRDI 2010 ?.?. - ???????? 17 - ?????? - ?????????? ???????? HYUNDAI (http://hyundai-club.com.ua/showthread.php?t=24750&page=17)
Just scroll down the page till you find the diagram.. and don't forget to tell us about your cruise contol.
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For the record, it may have just been defective, but that part #56190 2L300 for the audio controls-only steering wheel wiring didn't work for me. I installed it and nothing happened, not even the button backlights. (I accidentally ordered that one instead of the audio+cruise wiring.) When I installed the one I actually needed, #56190-2L500, the backlights for both the audio and cruise buttons started working and the audio controls worked perfectly.
Just 3 wires on the steering column and I should be in business with the cruise as well! :goodjob2:
Hi,
Here is the link where you can find what you are looking for! :link: ????? ???????? ?? 1,6 CRDI 2010 ?.?. - ???????? 17 - ?????? - ?????????? ???????? HYUNDAI (http://hyundai-club.com.ua/showthread.php?t=24750&page=17)
Just scroll down the page till you find the diagram.. and don't forget to tell us about your cruise contol.
Ops don't know why but link is hiden so just folow me: clockspring pins 9 and 10 are butons lights; 3,4 and 5 are for the cruise. 3-cruise power; 4-signal; 5-ground; I don't know where they goes on your ECU but you shoud alredy know that!
Good luck!
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For the record, it may have just been defective, but that part #56190 2L300 for the audio controls-only steering wheel wiring didn't work for me. I installed it and nothing happened, not even the button backlights. (I accidentally ordered that one instead of the audio+cruise wiring.) When I installed the one I actually needed, #56190-2L500, the backlights for both the audio and cruise buttons started working and the audio controls worked perfectly.
Just 3 wires on the steering column and I should be in business with the cruise as well! :goodjob2:
Hi,
Here is the link where you can find what you are looking for! :link: ????? ???????? ?? 1,6 CRDI 2010 ?.?. - ???????? 17 - ?????? - ?????????? ???????? HYUNDAI (http://hyundai-club.com.ua/showthread.php?t=24750&page=17)
Just scroll down the page till you find the diagram.. and don't forget to tell us about your cruise contol.
Ops don't know why but link is hiden so just folow me: clockspring pins 9 and 10 are butons lights; 3,4 and 5 are for the cruise. 3-cruise power; 4-signal; 5-ground; I don't know where they goes on your ECU but you should already know that!
Good luck!
Thanks for the info! The text link is obfuscated but the click-link works fine. I'm travelling now (I was hoping to have this done before we left), but might get enough down time to finish up.
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... there was no change in voltage on lamp pin. I guess it is for a reason they do not provide cruise control diagram on hyundai service site for a model 2008.
Hi Ramunask!
Have you ever tried to repeat this test? Why did you expect voltage at this pin? This is open collector output so it changes it's impedance (it "opens" towards neutral) to lit the led. I'll try to repeat your test
I did test for CC on my car more than 1 year ago,but I only was trying with push buton(via 3900 ohm to imitate cruise switch to check will I get any voltage on cruise lamp without any luck! Since I haven't done anything else about the Cruise Control.Week ago I plug AutoCom into OBD plug I for my surprice there was TDC says ''Cruise control lamp permanently on'' and I can't clear that error. Then I plug Launch X-431 but it doesn't show it. Before I try my CC car was checked with AutoCom and there was no eny troble code stored.Guys have you tryed to set the CC not only to get CC light on?
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Wolfmane any success!?
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... and there was no eny troble code stored.Guys have you tryed to set the CC not only to get CC light on?
I'm afraid this "lit LED" could be just mismatch. I'm afraid that "common" OBD interfaces and soft, just look into default locations (addresses). Probably bits/switches like "check engine" are normalized within OBD specification but other infos are specific to manufacturer. Some brands (like VW or Opel) are very well described but soft for Hyundai is very expensive and not "discovered" yet :blubber:
As far as I know, minimal test to discover CC in ECU is to switch it via 3900 ohm resistor and check if CC LED is lit at this moment. Probably nobody, but batteoui, is succesfull in this matter but he had newer version of i30.
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Jarek when you try your one did you measure betwen the ecu pins and battery.What I mean is that on my ECU pin 14 the ground is permanent ,is it normal or there should be ground only when cruise is on(pin15 to 24 via 3900 ohm)? My ECU has same pins as yours and I'm just comparing it. I just bought and waiting for the parts to imitate CC switch same as you did. I will not try to light up diodes because don't now the diode diagram and what kind of diode to use.
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As far as I know, minimal test to discover CC in ECU is to switch it via 3900 ohm resistor and check if CC LED is lit at this moment. Probably nobody, but batteoui, is succesfull in this matter but he had newer version of i30.
My one is 2009 but the ECU pins are same as yours! On some cars like Peugeot the CC is alredy build in to the ECU but some times must be activated first with special Peugeot/Citroen dealer Tool Equipment. I think there is a chance also all of us to have CC build in the ECU but just need dealer equipment to enable it, then wires switch and ... ready!
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... I think there is a chance also all of us to have CC build in the ECU but just need dealer equipment to enable it, then wires switch and ... ready!
I've had the sam hope but after contacting some ECU "magicians" they did not want even try. They have a lot of tools for VW, Audi, Skoda .. but they don't have tools for "exotic" Hyundai. Mostly they operate on engine maps to increase power (tuning). Hyundais and Kias in Poland are quite popular but mostly the cars are right after 5 or 7 years warranty. That's why there are very few independent services.
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Jarek when you try your one did you measure betwen the ecu pins and battery.What I mean is that on my ECU pin 14 the ground is permanent ,is it normal or there should be ground only when cruise is on(pin15 to 24 via 3900 ohm)? My ECU has same pins as yours and I'm just comparing it. I just bought and waiting for the parts to imitate CC switch same as you did. I will not try to light up diodes because don't now the diode diagram and what kind of diode to use.
On 14'th pin there's permanent ground!. I can send you schemas. Easiest way to connect test LED: conect serially plus 12V -> 1 kohm resistor -> led's anode, then connect led's cathode to pin 91 or 51 depending on engine type. LED can be slightly lit even if CC is not turned on, but shall shine brightly when you turn it on (I wish you this sincerely :goodjob2:)
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Jarek when you try your one did you measure betwen the ecu pins and battery.What I mean is that on my ECU pin 14 the ground is permanent ,is it normal or there should be ground only when cruise is on(pin15 to 24 via 3900 ohm)? My ECU has same pins as yours and I'm just comparing it. I just bought and waiting for the parts to imitate CC switch same as you did. I will not try to light up diodes because don't now the diode diagram and what kind of diode to use.
On 14'th pin there's permanent ground!. I can send you schemas. Easiest way to connect test LED: conect serially plus 12V -> 1 kohm resistor -> led's anode, then connect led's cathode to pin 91 or 51 depending on engine type. LED can be slightly lit even if CC is not turned on, but shall shine brightly when you turn it on (I wish you this sincerely :goodjob2:)
Thank you very much for your help! Once I try this and notice that there is no CC next step is to visit KIA main dealer,as a part of the company which I work I hope the hook up the car almost for free :) :). I'm a mechanic in Citroen but the company owns the KIA aswell.
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On 14'th pin there's permanent ground!. I can send you schemas. Easiest way to connect test LED: conect serially plus 12V -> 1 kohm resistor -> led's anode, then connect led's cathode to pin 91 or 51 depending on engine type. LED can be slightly lit even if CC is not turned on, but shall shine brightly when you turn it on (I wish you this sincerely :goodjob2:)
Hi Jarek,
What about if I use 910 ohm instead of 1k ohm ? They are close to each other!
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Go for it. Tolerances are not that great anyway. Even if it doesn't work, you won't damage anything trying. If it turns out you really need a 910, use 1K in parallel with 10K. :victory:
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Gonz is right. 12V/910ohm=13 mA - this current is safe for LED and for output transistor inside ECU.
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:happydance: :happydance: :happydance: :happydance: :) :) :goodjob: :goodjob:
Hello everybody from today I have Cruise control as-well and it's build in to the ECU(just did a temporary switch like Jarek did)!
Over a year ago I try to short pin24 with pin15 via 3900ohm's resistor to see if it's there any difference betwin pin91(cc light) with multimeter,and for my disappointing nothing hapend. Esterday I build temporary switch but the 3900ohm resistor showing 3800 when checked with multimeter so I added is series another 110ohms(I did it with 2x220ohms in paralel) and after an hour of getting cables from the ECU all works fine. For the lights I use lights diode with 910ohms on the + side. So tomorrow I have to order a CC switch and do proper job about running the cables to the steering wheel and lights on the dash!
My pins are same as Garek's one.I thing the ECU needs the exactly the specified signal but some resistors are not what they suppost to be. :happydance: :happydance: ;)
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:happydance: :happydance: :happydance: :happydance: :) :) :goodjob: :goodjob:
Hello everybody from today I have Cruise control as-well and it's build in to the ECU(just did a temporary switch like Garek did)!
:goodjob: :happydance: :victory:
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(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/ShamblesX/Fast-Car.gif~original)
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:happydance: :victory:
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:happydance: :happydance: :happydance: :happydance: :) :) :goodjob: :goodjob:
Hello everybody from today I have Cruise control as-well and it's build in to the ECU(just did a temporary switch like Garek did)!
:goodjob: :happydance: :victory:
I'm shocked... Could you post (or PM send) your VIN and ECU data (numbers on ECU).
Mine are:
ECU BOSCH 0 281 015 712 39106-2A716 C0FLCT2EI04U 25U 39106-2A716
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:happydance: :happydance: :happydance: :happydance: :) :) :goodjob: :goodjob:
Hello everybody from today I have Cruise control as-well and it's build in to the ECU(just did a temporary switch like Garek did)!
:goodjob: :happydance: :victory:
I'm shocked... Could you post (or PM send) your VIN and ECU data (numbers on ECU).
Mine are:
ECU BOSCH 0 281 015 712 39106-2A716 C0FLCT2EI04U 25U 39106-2A716
Hi,
My VIN is:TMADC51TR9J027***. My car has ESP and is without DPF filter.I don't know my ECU numbers but will check as soon as I can! My first atempt (over a year) didn't work because instead to use LED I was expecting to see any change in multimeter voltage from the pin 91.Now I did switch and tested it with multimeter.On cruise switch I was geting 3820ohm and deside to reconstruct to get exacly 3900ohm's before I conect it to the ECU.
Jarek would you share with me some more info about lighting the LED's on the dash.Thank you very much.
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No problem :-)
First, remove dashboard (DB) cover - remove 2 screws in front of dashboard's glass and pull out cover
Then remove 4 screws, pull out plugs and unmount dashboard.
Maybe you are so lucky, that your DB has proper LEDs inside? Remove black cover at the back and check if you have these two diodes installed. If yes - you are very lucky. If not - call Houston :blubber:
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/DB2.jpg)
Original LEDs are surface mounted SMD so I pushed there "normal" leds (~5 mm) but placing them is tough. I did it by bending a bit PCB and then I pushed LED in plastic mask below PCB - it's very stressfull. Many times speedometer needle fell off so I had to remove DB glass an place the needle again (and then correct it to see right speed - horror). LEDs leads must be isolated to get them to upper PCB's side - first I soldered additional wires long enough to connect LEDs to PCB. There are also serial resistors soldered right after diodes (in thermo conduit). Other method to place LEDs is batteoui's way - earlier posts. Other one is: remove transparent DB cover and bend little black foil covering DB it's thin and elastic. Then place diode from the front and pull LED's leads to back side.
Complicated ? :P :P :P
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No problem :-)
Original LEDs are surface mounted SMD so I pushed there "normal" leds (~5 mm) but placing them is tough. I did it by bending a bit PCB and then I pushed LED in plastic mask below PCB - it's very stressfull. Many times speedometer needle fell off so I had to remove DB glass an place the needle again (and then correct it to see right speed - horror). LEDs leads must be isolated to get them to upper PCB's side - first I soldered additional wires long enough to connect LEDs to PCB. There are also serial resistors soldered right after diodes (in thermo conduit). Other method to place LEDs is batteoui's way - earlier posts. Other one is: remove transparent DB cover and bend little black foil covering DB it's thin and elastic. Then place diode from the front and pull LED's leads to back side.
Complicated ? :P :P :P
Thank you very much! I will do that but need to know about the LED wiring(what resistors and how they should be in series paralel ect.
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I'm shocked... Could you post (or PM send) your VIN and ECU data (numbers on ECU).
Mine are:
ECU BOSCH 0 281 015 712 39106-2A716 C0FLCT2EI04U 25U 39106-2A716
Hi Jarek, here is my ECU numbers
ECU Bosch 0 281 016 005 39106-2a722 C0FECT2E102U Made in Hungary
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Jarek from the picture I see that you did some weldings on the PCB board!Would you please tell me what are they for? Did you find on the PCB which one is the plug and pins for CC cables?Thanks!
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I did those weldings to be as close to original circuits as possible. Welding diodes and wires to PCB I could use factory pins in DB's connectors. I also needed positive voltage for LED's. Original circuit for LEDs is a bit more complicated than in typical application. Look here http://piejar.republika.pl/images/LEDS.JPG (http://piejar.republika.pl/images/LEDS.JPG) There's not only serial resistor (that's normal) but also a diode connected serially and additonal resistor connected parallelly to LED. Look at schemas. I wondered what are these elements for? When I bought new LEDs (first I used ~20 years old from my "cellar" - very dark and poor quality) I realized that they shine very bright at very low current. I was also surprised, that ECU outputs devoted for these LEDs are "leaking" a bit. It means that LED is shining a little even if it is not lit by ECU. That's why there's diode and parralell resistor - to cut some voltage and "consume" a little of LED's current. Maybe it's specific application for automotive purposes (?).
Here's photo of my wires in M01-C connector - for CC leds (from ECU)
(http://piejar.republika.pl/images/M01C.JPG)
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I'm shocked... Could you post (or PM send) your VIN and ECU data (numbers on ECU).
Mine are:
ECU BOSCH 0 281 015 712 39106-2A716 C0FLCT2EI04U 25U 39106-2A716
Hi Jarek, here is my ECU numbers
ECU Bosch 0 281 016 005 39106-2a722 C0FECT2E102U Made in Hungary
They are different from my numbers... I don't know if these codes are hardware or software about. But I also see that Your i30 is from Czech factory. Mine is from Korea.
These informations can be very useful for other "CC seekers"
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I did those weldings to be as close to original circuits as possible. Welding diodes and wires to PCB I could use factory pins in DB's connectors. I also needed positive voltage for LED's. Original circuit for LEDs is a bit more complicated than in typical application. Look here http://piejar.republika.pl/images/LEDS.JPG (http://piejar.republika.pl/images/LEDS.JPG) There's not only serial resistor (that's normal) but also a diode connected serially and additonal resistor connected parallelly to LED. Look at schemas. I wondered what are these elements for? When I bought new LEDs (first I used ~20 years old from my "cellar" - very dark and poor quality) I realized that they shine very bright at very low current. I was also surprised, that ECU outputs devoted for these LEDs are "leaking" a bit. It means that LED is shining a little even if it is not lit by ECU. That's why there's diode and parralell resistor - to cut some voltage and "consume" a little of LED's current. Maybe it's specific application for automotive purposes (?).
Here's photo of my wires in M01-C connector - for CC leds (from ECU)
Thanks Jarek! I know and understand the wiring but there is no values for the resistors. Did you use your own resistors and what are their values or they already exist on the PCB board? Which pins did you use on M01-C connector?Thanks again!
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HeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeHHhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa !!!!
I did it :happydance: :happydance: :happydance:
I've just constructed a test rig (470 Ohm (parallel to a tiny LED ) with a 1000 Ohm in series and a current blocking diode), connected the Positive wire to a cigarette lighter and the negative wire to the wire coming from ECU (wire which is supposed to give lighting signal) and that Works. The led shed its light once I hit the button for engaging cruise. I then connected the test rig to the other wire to light the SET button and drove over 40 Km/h and switched the button SET and guess what... ?... the light came on. That was a real relief to have everything working :sweating:
Now tomorrow I'll be finalising the setup and mounting the LEDs to the instrument cluster. I'll post a full review with pictures once it's done.
Cheers !
Batteoui used 470 ohm and 1 kohm. You may test it just by measuring resistance with multimeter on other LEDs (existing on PCB). Don't forget about diode.
I placed a link to picture with pin numbers in M-01C: 16 for SET and 17 for CRUISE.
One more info: probably there are no contatcs in empty slots in M-01C plug . I used terminals like these:
:link: JWT connectors, 4 pin - 5set/bag (https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29279__JWT_connectors_4_pin_5set_bag.html)
Generally they fit well to many small connectors.
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No Joy. :blubber: I special ordered the pin sockets for the ECU and clockspring connectors from a local electrical supply company in order to make sure I was getting a good connection. Today I finally got around to installing them along with a new cable. I used an ethernet cable because it has more than enough individual conductors for this application, has high-quality wire and is slightly smaller than the generic 4-conductor cable I used before. I couldn't find a black one, but this one is blue which stands out less in the engine compartment. Anyway, when I got it all put together and took it out for a test drive it still won't engage. I don't have LEDs hooked up yet, so I had to be careful to make sure I only pressed the cruise power button once, and I tried pressing it, then the set button, then the power again, then the set button again etc. in order to make sure, but it never worked.
There are several possibilities still. I'm almost certain I used the right pins on the ECU. I checked, re-checked and re-checked again many times over, and the top and bottom rows both are marked as to the first and last pins, so if the rows of pins are all numbered in parallel then I definitely have the right pins.
On the other hand, the clockspring only has pins 7 and 12 marked, so I could only assume that pins 1 and 6 counted up the same direction. If that's not the case, then the pins are reversed from how I have them connected. Here's what I mean:
My assumption as to pin order:
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12
vs.
1 2 3 4 5 6
12 11 10 9 8 7
I guess the two remaining things I can try before giving up are to attach LEDs to help see if & when the cruise gets turned on and/or to just switch the pin order and see if that works. I just hate to go to the trouble of sourcing and hooking up LEDs and resistors if it's not going to work at all.
:( :disapp:
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CC won't engage unless the brake pedal has been depressed once since start up. In your rewiring, have you ensured that the logic for this is still correct and working :question:
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wolfmane, CC doesn't engage below 40 or 50 kph. Try other way: connect everything to buttons, and then disconnect wires from ECU, attach resistance meter to wires and try to check if proper resistance is between right wires, when ON/OFF button is pressed and then other buttons. This wil solve any mismatches on sockets/pins/wires/
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CC won't engage unless the brake pedal has been depressed once since start up. In your rewiring, have you ensured that the logic for this is still correct and working :question:
I don't have any way of checking that. However, that condition is always met, since it's impossible to put the car in gear without pressing on the brake pedal.
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wolfmane, CC doesn't engage below 40 or 50 kph. Try other way: connect everything to buttons, and then disconnect wires from ECU, attach resistance meter to wires and try to check if proper resistance is between right wires, when ON/OFF button is pressed and then other buttons. This wil solve any mismatches on sockets/pins/wires/
I've tested many times at this point, going well above 50 kph on the highway. It just doesn't work.
I'll try testing the resistances at the clockspring terminals when I get a chance. I think I've got a schematic of the buttons somewhere. Unfortunately I have other projects going at the moment which makes finding time for fiddly, time-consuming stuff like this difficult.
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Hi,
first i want to say Hello All :).
I also want to install CC to my I30, but i wondering if my ECU support such function, could someone help me with this, number my ECU:
0 281 015 865
1 037 398 489
82FD400ACVERI01U
39113-2A405
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kendit did it !!! I know !!!
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CC won't engage unless the brake pedal has been depressed once since start up. In your rewiring, have you ensured that the logic for this is still correct and working :question:
I don't have any way of checking that. However, that condition is always met, since it's impossible to put the car in gear without pressing on the brake pedal.
In my experience the car has always gone in gear with the clutch pedal...not the brake.
As Phil mentioned tapping the brake pedal once when the car is at speed should then allow it to be activated, mine wont activate below 70kph.
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CC won't engage unless the brake pedal has been depressed once since start up. In your rewiring, have you ensured that the logic for this is still correct and working :question:
I don't have any way of checking that. However, that condition is always met, since it's impossible to put the car in gear without pressing on the brake pedal.
In my experience the car has always gone in gear with the clutch pedal...not the brake.
As Phil mentioned tapping the brake pedal once when the car is at speed should then allow it to be activated, mine wont activate below 70kph.
70 kph is high. Mine in the Calais can be activated for 40 kph school zones!
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mine wont activate below 70kph.
70 kph is high. Mine in the Calais can be activated for 40 kph school zones!
You might have something there Dazz, it's been a year or more since I last used CC so my memory may be failing me :undecided:
I'll have to retest when I can get my car out of the driveway as there's a trailer load of road base in front of the carport at the moment for the artificial lawn.
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mine wont activate below 70kph.
70 kph is high. Mine in the Calais can be activated for 40 kph school zones!
You might have something there Dazz, it's been a year or more since I last used CC so my memory may be failing me :undecided:
I'll have to retest when I can get my car out of the driveway as there's a trailer load of road base in front of the carport at the moment for the artificial lawn.
Gee I hope you don't have to go anywhere in a hurry! :eek:
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I still have Kamini's car out in the carpark :)
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I still have Kamini's car out in the carpark :)
:goodjob:
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CC won't engage unless the brake pedal has been depressed once since start up. In your rewiring, have you ensured that the logic for this is still correct and working :question:
I don't have any way of checking that. However, that condition is always met, since it's impossible to put the car in gear without pressing on the brake pedal.
In my experience the car has always gone in gear with the clutch pedal...not the brake.
As Phil mentioned tapping the brake pedal once when the car is at speed should then allow it to be activated, mine wont activate below 70kph.
70 kph is high. Mine in the Calais can be activated for 40 kph school zones!
I don't know what the parameters are for the i30 but i do know that my 1989 Honda Goldwing has cruise control that can only be activated between 48kph and 130kph (30mph and 80mph), in 4th gear and Overdrive. Apparently that is governed by legislation and safety regulations in most countries.
I haven't tried my cruise control coz roads are so busy here there's no point (unless you do most of your driving between 2 and 5 in the morning)
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A nice cheap red LED clamped to the right wire ends (or pushed into the right socket points) will do for checking CC state as an intermediate measure. No need to invest in more for that.
PS: I can get my CC to engage at 38kph according to my GPS. :victory:
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Hi Guys.
I decided not to go ahead with the mod, as I don't have the time "and will" to do it at this stage.
I've listed in the for sale section a steering wheel that I bought from the wreckers that has both radio controls and cruise control.
if you're interested just go there and ping me..
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1) It's hard to press a clutch pedal when you have an automatic transmission....
2) The auto trans cannot be shifted out of park unless you press the brake pedal.
3) I've had a clutch fail on a manual car and had to drive it without clutching for several hundred kilometers, through small towns and big, with traffic lights and stop signs. It is in fact possible to drive a manual without a clutch (at least prior to all the current idiotic interlocks, but that's not the issue in question). If you don't know how I did it, don't try to lecture me on, well, ANYTHING!
4) If your cruise doesn't engage below 70 kph then there's something wrong with it or it's been improperly set up. I've never seen one that wouldn't engage at 45 kph or lower.
I finally gave up (I don't have enough hands to reverse-engineer the clockspring pinout, and all indications are that my ECU - early 2009 unit - just doesn't have the programming) and had the "e-Cruise" installed by Autostrada in Brisbane. It works great, engages at 40 kph, and uses the OEM buttons I had already installed. They estimated 2 hours to do the job and had it done in 30 minutes. The only thing that's less than optimal is that they located the status LED in an empty switch panel below the dash dimmer wheel next to the ESC button and I have to lean way over and look far away from the road to see it around the steering wheel and my hand. That's a minor issue that I can resolve later, though. Overall I'm very happy with the install and the new cruise control.
It never ceases to amaze me how many people refuse to use cruise control or only use it rarely. Especially in a country with speed cameras and draconian cops everywhere. If you think you can do a better job of keeping an even speed than a cruise control, you're both seriously deluded and a danger to everyone else on the road by concentrating far to much on your speedometer and not nearly enough on the environment around you. I use it all the time, even in the city, and it frees my attention to be where it belongs. It's also far less fatiguing on long trips, and if you're worried about falling asleep with the cruise control engaged, you shouldn't be driving without it either.
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It never ceases to amaze me how many people refuse to use cruise control or only use it rarely. Especially in a country with speed cameras and draconian cops everywhere. If you think you can do a better job of keeping an even speed than a cruise control, you're both seriously deluded and a danger to everyone else on the road by concentrating far to much on your speedometer and not nearly enough on the environment around you. I use it all the time, even in the city, and it frees my attention to be where it belongs. It's also far less fatiguing on long trips, and if you're worried about falling asleep with the cruise control engaged, you shouldn't be driving without it either.
I very rarely ever use my cruise control yet have no problems whatsoever maintaining a constant speed, growing up with cars that never had that technology makes it fairly standard practice to be able to cope without modern features...tbh I think many of the modern features in cars dull the senses and put many people into a false sense of security.
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I use it ALL the time EVERYWHERE from the very lowest available speed of 40KHP. I love it. Oh, and did I mention 4.1 L/100k? :lol:
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I use cc around town as well, if the traffic is flowing. I like to set 60 and let the Diesel Auto work out what to do after that. I don't have any trouble maintaining 60 manually, but I figure if the facility is there, why not use it. Of course on our freeway, it's a no brainer. :goodjob:
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I couldn't survive without "cruise" these days, especially since I broke my right ankle last year...
Something I wouldn't recommend but I do have to admit it really came into it's own when I was attempting to drive while wearing a moon boot... :whistler: :-[ :head_butt:
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Just a note - CC doesn't prevent the car picking up speed going down hill - I was advised of this a number of times when I just got the car. After which I experimented to prove/dis-prove it for my i30cw.
I will also note, with my car (2010 Petrol), the CC appears to control the throttle by a cable connected to an actuator/servo/motor.
I assuming that i30s of similar vintage that have had CC added by just connecting wires to the ECU have electronic throttles.
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Just a note - CC doesn't prevent the car picking up speed going down hill
Interesting observation but......
With my cc when i've used it on the motorway when i am going up an incline i hear/feel the engine's revs increase to keep the speed at the set mph.
Likewise when going down an incline i feel the engine pulling back, again to keep at set mph.
Will check next time i'm on motorway to be sure....
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Likewise when going down an incline i feel the engine pulling back, again to keep at set mph.
Will check next time i'm on motorway to be sure....
I have noticed that too... it does do it to a point (e.g. engine braking) - however if the descent is steep enough the car will pick up speed. The CC doesn't apply the actual brakes :(
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... when i am going up an incline i hear/feel the engine's revs increase ...
Your clutch must be slipping then :P
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The brake switch is used to deactivate CC, so the car isn't going to apply the brakes automatically, is it. :exclaim:
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:lol: :goodjob:
It's not rocket science. CC is simply a feedback control loop, matching detected speed to throttle. Any apparent braking is simply a lack of throttle to keep at a set speed. Likewise, going uphill the speed will naturally decrease, which is when more throttle is applied.
Don't read any more into it. :rolleyes:
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:lol: :goodjob:
It's not rocket science. CC is simply a feedback control loop, matching detected speed to throttle. Any apparent braking is simply a lack of throttle to keep at a set speed. Likewise, going uphill the speed will naturally reduce speed, which is when more throttle is applied.
Don't read any more into it. :rolleyes:
:goodjob: Exactly. And in the case of a decline, up to a point, the lack of throttle works in combination with the gear ratio and engine compression to retard the effect of gravity acting on the mass of the car.
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:goodjob2: :goodjob: