[wolfmane]

For the record, it may have just been defective, but that part #56190 2L300 for the audio controls-only steering wheel wiring didn't work for me. I installed it and nothing happened, not even the button backlights. (I accidentally ordered that one instead of the audio+cruise wiring.) When I installed the one I actually needed, #56190-2L500, the backlights for both the audio and cruise buttons started working and the audio controls worked perfectly.

Just 3 wires on the steering column and I should be in business with the cruise as well! 

[Dazzler]

Thanks wolfmane, good posting! 

[The Gonz]

 

[ghgogov]

For the record, it may have just been defective, but that part #56190 2L300 for the audio controls-only steering wheel wiring didn't work for me. I installed it and nothing happened, not even the button backlights. (I accidentally ordered that one instead of the audio+cruise wiring.) When I installed the one I actually needed, #56190-2L500, the backlights for both the audio and cruise buttons started working and the audio controls worked perfectly.

Just 3 wires on the steering column and I should be in business with the cruise as well! 

Hi,
Here is the link where you can find what you are looking for!  ????? ???????? ?? 1,6 CRDI 2010 ?.?. - ???????? 17 - ?????? - ?????????? ???????? HYUNDAI

Just scroll down the page till you find the diagram.. and don't forget to tell us about your cruise contol.

[ghgogov]

For the record, it may have just been defective, but that part #56190 2L300 for the audio controls-only steering wheel wiring didn't work for me. I installed it and nothing happened, not even the button backlights. (I accidentally ordered that one instead of the audio+cruise wiring.) When I installed the one I actually needed, #56190-2L500, the backlights for both the audio and cruise buttons started working and the audio controls worked perfectly.

Just 3 wires on the steering column and I should be in business with the cruise as well! 

Hi,
Here is the link where you can find what you are looking for!  ????? ???????? ?? 1,6 CRDI 2010 ?.?. - ???????? 17 - ?????? - ?????????? ???????? HYUNDAI

Just scroll down the page till you find the diagram.. and don't forget to tell us about your cruise contol.

Ops don't know why but link is hiden so just folow me: clockspring pins 9 and 10 are butons lights; 3,4 and 5 are for the cruise. 3-cruise power;  4-signal;  5-ground; I don't know where they goes on your ECU but you shoud alredy know that!
Good luck! 

[wolfmane]

For the record, it may have just been defective, but that part #56190 2L300 for the audio controls-only steering wheel wiring didn't work for me. I installed it and nothing happened, not even the button backlights. (I accidentally ordered that one instead of the audio+cruise wiring.) When I installed the one I actually needed, #56190-2L500, the backlights for both the audio and cruise buttons started working and the audio controls worked perfectly.

Just 3 wires on the steering column and I should be in business with the cruise as well! 

Hi,
Here is the link where you can find what you are looking for!  ????? ???????? ?? 1,6 CRDI 2010 ?.?. - ???????? 17 - ?????? - ?????????? ???????? HYUNDAI

Just scroll down the page till you find the diagram.. and don't forget to tell us about your cruise contol.

Ops don't know why but link is hiden so just folow me: clockspring pins 9 and 10 are butons lights; 3,4 and 5 are for the cruise. 3-cruise power;  4-signal;  5-ground; I don't know where they goes on your ECU but you should already know that!
Good luck!

Thanks for the info! The text link is obfuscated but the click-link works fine. I'm travelling now (I was hoping to have this done before we left), but might get enough down time to finish up.

[ghgogov]

... there was no change in voltage on lamp pin. I guess it is for a reason they do not provide cruise control diagram on hyundai service site for a model 2008.

Hi Ramunask!
Have you ever tried to repeat this test? Why did you expect voltage at this pin? This is open collector output so it changes it's impedance (it "opens" towards neutral) to lit the led. I'll try to repeat your test

I did test for CC on my car more than 1 year ago,but I only was trying with push buton(via 3900 ohm to imitate cruise switch to check will I get any voltage on cruise lamp without any luck! Since I haven't done anything else about the Cruise Control.Week ago I plug AutoCom into OBD plug I for my surprice there was TDC says ''Cruise control lamp permanently on'' and I can't clear that error. Then I plug Launch X-431 but it doesn't show it. Before I try my CC car was checked with AutoCom and there was no eny troble code stored.Guys have you tryed to set the CC not only to get CC light on?

[ghgogov]

Wolfmane any success!?

[Jarek]

... and there was no eny troble code stored.Guys have you tryed to set the CC not only to get CC light on?

I'm afraid this "lit LED" could be just mismatch. I'm afraid that "common" OBD interfaces and soft, just look into default locations (addresses). Probably bits/switches like "check engine" are normalized within OBD specification but other infos are specific to manufacturer. Some brands (like VW or Opel) are very well described but soft for Hyundai is very expensive and not "discovered" yet 
As far as I know, minimal test to discover CC in ECU is to switch it via 3900 ohm resistor and check if CC LED is lit at this moment. Probably nobody, but batteoui, is succesfull in this matter but he had newer version of i30.

[ghgogov]

Jarek when you try your one did you measure betwen the ecu pins and battery.What I mean is that on my ECU pin 14 the ground is permanent ,is it normal or there should be ground only when cruise is on(pin15 to 24 via 3900 ohm)? My ECU has same pins as yours and I'm just comparing it. I just bought  and waiting for the parts to imitate CC switch same as you did. I will not try to light up diodes because don't now the diode diagram and what kind of diode to use.

[ghgogov]

As far as I know, minimal test to discover CC in ECU is to switch it via 3900 ohm resistor and check if CC LED is lit at this moment. Probably nobody, but batteoui, is succesfull in this matter but he had newer version of i30.

My one is 2009 but the ECU pins are same as yours! On some cars like Peugeot the CC is alredy build in to the ECU but some times must be activated first with special Peugeot/Citroen dealer Tool Equipment. I think there is a chance also all of us to have CC build in the ECU but just need dealer equipment to enable it, then wires switch and ... ready!

[Jarek]

... I think there is a chance also all of us to have CC build in the ECU but just need dealer equipment to enable it, then wires switch and ... ready!

I've had the sam hope but after contacting some ECU "magicians" they did not want even try. They have a lot of tools for VW, Audi, Skoda .. but they don't have tools for "exotic" Hyundai. Mostly they operate on engine maps to increase power (tuning). Hyundais and Kias in Poland are quite popular but mostly the cars are right after 5 or 7 years warranty. That's why there are very few independent services.

[Jarek]

Jarek when you try your one did you measure betwen the ecu pins and battery.What I mean is that on my ECU pin 14 the ground is permanent ,is it normal or there should be ground only when cruise is on(pin15 to 24 via 3900 ohm)? My ECU has same pins as yours and I'm just comparing it. I just bought  and waiting for the parts to imitate CC switch same as you did. I will not try to light up diodes because don't now the diode diagram and what kind of diode to use.

On 14'th pin there's permanent ground!. I can send you schemas. Easiest way to connect test LED: conect serially plus 12V -> 1 kohm resistor -> led's anode, then connect led's cathode to pin 91 or 51 depending on engine type. LED can be slightly lit even if CC is not turned on, but shall shine brightly when you turn it on (I wish you this sincerely  )

[ghgogov]

Jarek when you try your one did you measure betwen the ecu pins and battery.What I mean is that on my ECU pin 14 the ground is permanent ,is it normal or there should be ground only when cruise is on(pin15 to 24 via 3900 ohm)? My ECU has same pins as yours and I'm just comparing it. I just bought  and waiting for the parts to imitate CC switch same as you did. I will not try to light up diodes because don't now the diode diagram and what kind of diode to use.

On 14'th pin there's permanent ground!. I can send you schemas. Easiest way to connect test LED: conect serially plus 12V -> 1 kohm resistor -> led's anode, then connect led's cathode to pin 91 or 51 depending on engine type. LED can be slightly lit even if CC is not turned on, but shall shine brightly when you turn it on (I wish you this sincerely  )

Thank you very much for your help! Once I try this and notice that there is no CC next step is to visit KIA main dealer,as a part of the company which I work I hope the hook up the car almost for free . I'm a mechanic in Citroen but the company owns the KIA aswell.

[ghgogov]

On 14'th pin there's permanent ground!. I can send you schemas. Easiest way to connect test LED: conect serially plus 12V -> 1 kohm resistor -> led's anode, then connect led's cathode to pin 91 or 51 depending on engine type. LED can be slightly lit even if CC is not turned on, but shall shine brightly when you turn it on (I wish you this sincerely  )

Hi Jarek,
What about if I use 910 ohm instead of 1k ohm ? They are close to each other!

[The Gonz]

Go for it. Tolerances are not that great anyway. Even if it doesn't work, you won't damage anything trying. If it turns out you really need a 910, use 1K in parallel with 10K.

[Jarek]

Gonz is right. 12V/910ohm=13 mA - this current is safe for LED and for output transistor inside ECU.

[ghgogov]

 
Hello everybody from today I have Cruise control as-well and it's build in to the ECU(just did a temporary switch like Jarek did)!

Over a year ago I try to short pin24 with pin15 via 3900ohm's resistor  to see if it's there any difference betwin pin91(cc light) with multimeter,and for my disappointing nothing hapend. Esterday I build temporary switch but the 3900ohm resistor showing 3800 when checked with multimeter so I added is series another 110ohms(I did it with 2x220ohms in paralel) and after an hour of getting cables from the ECU all works fine. For the lights I use lights diode with 910ohms on the + side. So tomorrow I have to order a CC switch and do proper job about running the cables to the steering wheel and lights on the dash!
  My pins are same as Garek's one.I thing the ECU needs the exactly the specified signal but some resistors are not what they suppost to be. 

[Dazzler]

Hello everybody from today I have Cruise control as-well and it's build in to the ECU(just did a temporary switch like Garek did)!

 

[Shambles]

[The Gonz]

 

[Jarek]

Hello everybody from today I have Cruise control as-well and it's build in to the ECU(just did a temporary switch like Garek did)!

 

I'm shocked... Could you post (or PM send) your VIN and ECU data (numbers on ECU).
Mine are:
ECU BOSCH   0 281 015 712   39106-2A716 C0FLCT2EI04U   25U 39106-2A716   

[ghgogov]

Hello everybody from today I have Cruise control as-well and it's build in to the ECU(just did a temporary switch like Garek did)!

 

I'm shocked... Could you post (or PM send) your VIN and ECU data (numbers on ECU).


Mine are:
ECU BOSCH   0 281 015 712   39106-2A716 C0FLCT2EI04U   25U 39106-2A716

Hi,
My VIN is:TMADC51TR9J027***. My car has ESP and is without DPF filter.I don't know my ECU numbers but will check as soon as I can! My first atempt (over a year) didn't work because instead to use LED I was expecting to see any change in multimeter voltage from the pin 91.Now I did switch and tested it with multimeter.On cruise switch I was geting 3820ohm and deside to reconstruct to get exacly 3900ohm's before I conect it to the ECU.
Jarek would you share with me some more info about lighting the LED's on the dash.Thank you very much.

[Jarek]

No problem :-)
First, remove dashboard (DB) cover - remove 2 screws in front of dashboard's glass and pull out cover
Then remove 4 screws, pull out plugs and unmount dashboard.
Maybe you are so lucky, that your DB has proper LEDs inside? Remove black cover at the back and check if you have these two diodes installed. If yes - you are very lucky. If not - call Houston 


Original LEDs are surface mounted SMD so I pushed there "normal" leds (~5 mm) but placing them is tough. I did it by bending a bit PCB and then I pushed LED in plastic mask below PCB - it's very stressfull. Many times speedometer needle fell off so I had to remove DB glass an place the needle again (and then correct it to see right speed - horror). LEDs leads must be isolated to get them to upper PCB's side - first I soldered additional wires long enough to connect LEDs to PCB. There are also serial resistors soldered right after diodes (in thermo conduit). Other method to place LEDs is batteoui's way - earlier posts. Other one is: remove transparent DB cover and bend  little black foil covering DB it's thin and elastic. Then place diode from the front and pull LED's leads to back side.
Complicated ? 

[ghgogov]

No problem :-)

Original LEDs are surface mounted SMD so I pushed there "normal" leds (~5 mm) but placing them is tough. I did it by bending a bit PCB and then I pushed LED in plastic mask below PCB - it's very stressfull. Many times speedometer needle fell off so I had to remove DB glass an place the needle again (and then correct it to see right speed - horror). LEDs leads must be isolated to get them to upper PCB's side - first I soldered additional wires long enough to connect LEDs to PCB. There are also serial resistors soldered right after diodes (in thermo conduit). Other method to place LEDs is batteoui's way - earlier posts. Other one is: remove transparent DB cover and bend  little black foil covering DB it's thin and elastic. Then place diode from the front and pull LED's leads to back side.
Complicated ? 

Thank you very much! I will do that but need to know about the LED wiring(what resistors and how they should be in series paralel ect.

[ghgogov]

I'm shocked... Could you post (or PM send) your VIN and ECU data (numbers on ECU).
Mine are:
ECU BOSCH   0 281 015 712   39106-2A716 C0FLCT2EI04U   25U 39106-2A716

Hi Jarek, here is my ECU numbers
ECU Bosch   0 281 016 005   39106-2a722   C0FECT2E102U   Made in Hungary

[ghgogov]

Jarek from the picture I see that you did some weldings on the PCB board!Would you please tell me what are they for? Did you find on the PCB which one is the plug and pins for CC cables?Thanks!

[Jarek]

I did those weldings to be as close to original circuits as possible. Welding diodes and wires to PCB I could use factory pins in  DB's connectors. I also needed positive voltage for LED's. Original circuit for LEDs is a bit more complicated than in typical application. Look here http://piejar.republika.pl/images/LEDS.JPG There's not only serial resistor (that's normal) but also a diode connected serially and additonal resistor connected parallelly to LED. Look at schemas. I wondered what are these elements for?  When I bought new LEDs (first I used ~20 years old from my "cellar" - very dark and poor quality) I realized that they shine very bright at very low current. I was also surprised, that ECU outputs devoted for these LEDs are "leaking" a bit. It means that LED is shining a little even if it is not lit by ECU. That's why there's diode and parralell resistor - to cut some voltage and "consume" a little of LED's current.  Maybe it's specific application for automotive purposes (?).
Here's photo of my wires in M01-C connector - for CC leds (from ECU)

[Jarek]

I'm shocked... Could you post (or PM send) your VIN and ECU data (numbers on ECU).
Mine are:
ECU BOSCH   0 281 015 712   39106-2A716 C0FLCT2EI04U   25U 39106-2A716

Hi Jarek, here is my ECU numbers
ECU Bosch   0 281 016 005   39106-2a722   C0FECT2E102U   Made in Hungary

They are different from my numbers... I don't know if these codes are hardware or software about. But I also see that Your i30 is from Czech factory. Mine is from Korea.
These informations can be very useful for other "CC seekers"

[ghgogov]

I did those weldings to be as close to original circuits as possible. Welding diodes and wires to PCB I could use factory pins in  DB's connectors. I also needed positive voltage for LED's. Original circuit for LEDs is a bit more complicated than in typical application. Look here http://piejar.republika.pl/images/LEDS.JPG There's not only serial resistor (that's normal) but also a diode connected serially and additonal resistor connected parallelly to LED. Look at schemas. I wondered what are these elements for?  When I bought new LEDs (first I used ~20 years old from my "cellar" - very dark and poor quality) I realized that they shine very bright at very low current. I was also surprised, that ECU outputs devoted for these LEDs are "leaking" a bit. It means that LED is shining a little even if it is not lit by ECU. That's why there's diode and parralell resistor - to cut some voltage and "consume" a little of LED's current.  Maybe it's specific application for automotive purposes (?).
Here's photo of my wires in M01-C connector - for CC leds (from ECU)

Thanks Jarek! I know and understand the wiring but there is no values for the resistors. Did you use your own resistors and what are their values or they already exist on the PCB board? Which pins did you use on M01-C connector?Thanks again!