i30 Owners Club
MODIFYING OR DETAILING YOUR I30 => ELECTRICAL | ELECTRONIC | AUDIO => Topic started by: agentr31 on October 21, 2010, 12:35:04
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righto! heres how to add steering wheel volume controls to your i30, if you were unfortunate enough not to get them from the factory!
parts you will need
1 - steering wheel volume switch
2 - wiring loom
3 - possibly a new clock spring, i will explain how to tell if you need a clock spring or not just after the photos of the parts!
1 - switch, the one sold here by hyundai doesnt come in a box, it just comes in a packet!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/16092010078-1.jpg)
2 - loom
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/16092010073-1.jpg)
3 possible clock spring
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1500.jpg)
tools you will need, from left to right
1 - breaker bar, extension and 22mm socket
2 - my special allen/torx/tamper proof extension bar
3 - 10 mm spanner
4 - T40 torx driver (you need the extension bar because you will be putting the long side in to the wheel)
5 - phillips head screw driver
6 - flat blade screw driver
7 - long nose pliers (optional)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1522.jpg)
before you start anything/go to hyundai and order parts/go to ebay and order parts etc etc please for the love of god do this... this simple 5 minute job will let you know if you need a new clock spring! you need to assess what clock spring you have, and if the wires to the radio are there!
an easy way to do this so you can order all the parts at once is to pull the steering coloum shroud off! its a simple process that will take you about 15 minutes all up!
!!!disconnect the battery, you only need to remove the -tive. then press the brake pedal to remove any residual current!!!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1482.jpg)
1 - remove screw under the steering coloum
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1516.jpg)
2 - turn the wheel 90 degrees and remove this screw, there is one on the other side so you will have to turn the wheel 180 degrees to get to it.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1534.jpg)
3 - closer inspection
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1535.jpg)
now you have the screws out you can remove the shroud
4 - push the top part in and try and keep the bottom half where it is, you will hear the clips undo do both sides like this
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1523.jpg)
5 - lift the top half up and out when the steering column is in the lowest and furthest out position it can go to, unlock it and pull it out and down (see section 4 page 28 of the owners manual for directions on steering column movement)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1531.jpg)
6 - remove the botton half, pull it over the ignition barrel then slip it down, it helps to move the column up as far as it will go and leave the locking lever just so it stops it from moving, but not right in! you will see what i mean when you come to remove it
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1533-1.jpg)
7 - locate on the bottom of the steering column, the clock spring and the connector/wiring for the radio controls
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1526.jpg)
8 - the wiring you need to have for this to work
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1529.jpg)
now for the part that will tell you if you have the correct clock spring, or if you are ordering a new one
9 - remove the WHITE connector like so use your thumb to push on the tab then pull the connector out
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1528.jpg)
10 - grab your favourite small mirror and look up the plug and see how many pins are in there, it should look like the one in the pic, if you only have the bottom row, then you need a new clock spring!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1530.jpg)
to put it all back it's the reverse of removing everything, double check all connections and make sure the wiring won't interfere/rub on things after you have put everything back reconnect the battery!
check everything works before driving the car!
if everything is good, and you have the loom there, the right clock spring and the parts, then you can get along with the install
this is where we will be removing the air bag, i just want to take the time to say this, i know its not going to happen unless you get something VERY wrong, but air bags aren't really a toy, be careful and remember you're doing it at your own risk... all air bag/SRS wiring is YELLOW!!! and the connectors are VERY hard to remove they are designed to be difficult to remove so they dont fall out, as peoples lives are at risk when that happens!!
right now you know the dangers and what to look for lets start stripping your i30
put the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, this is critical make sure the weels are DEAD STRAIGHT and so is the steering wheel, visually check both before you begin!
!!!disconnect the battery, you only need to remove the -ve. then press the brake pedal to remove any residual current!!!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1482.jpg)
12 - use the T40 torx bit to get at the 2 screws holding the air bag in, there is one each side of the steering wheel!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1483.jpg)
13 -grab the air bag unit like so and pull it out, it may be tight because the bolts have tapers on the end and i found that they would interfere a little, a wiggle helped to get it loose
one hand top
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1525.jpg)
one hand bottom
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1524.jpg)
14- now you have the air bag out, you will find it has limited movement, undo this clip to give you more room to move the airbag unit, I took the wiring out to get this photo, but the wiring runs in it!
!!!disconnect the battery, you only need to remove the -ve. then press the brake pedal to remove any residual current!!!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1482.jpg)
15 -next removing the air bag, firstly disconnect the air bag wiring, on the back of the unit there is a black connector with a yellow clip arrangemnt lift the clip up like so (obviously I've removed the air bag for ease of illustration)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1487.jpg)
16 - disconnect the horn button wiring, disconnect the spade terminal on the air bag unit. put the air bag unit somewhere safe and out of harms way
you will be left with a steering column that looks like this
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1485.jpg)
17 - remove the white connector from the clock spring and unwrap the yellow tape on the air bag loom, take the single black wire and connector out of the steering wheel, you wont be needing this part again, you can keep it or throw it out...
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1490.jpg)
18 - do not move the clock spring, if you do then you're going to have to set it up again... the instructions are on the yellow sticker on it, it's not hard, but it's best if you dont move it so you dont have to set it up! keep the arrows that my fingers are pointing to together and you will have no problems, if you move it a little its ok just put it back, but if it moves and you lose position, its set up time buddy!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1536.jpg)
instructions for re-alignment
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1509.jpg)
19 -pull the steering wheel off, use the 22mm socket, extension and breaker bar to undo the nut, DO NOT REMOVE THE NUT FULLY, leave it on 2~3 threads, bang the sides of the steering wheel (bit like king kong on his chest) and see if it comes off freely, the reason for this is if you remove it fully and pull the wheel and its stuck, your going to find your self with a face full of fail and possibly a broken nose from where the wheel smacks you in the head...
20 -you will be left with this, if you need to install the clock spring read the top section on how to remove the steering column shrouds... lets assume you have the right clock spring for now and install the switch
21 - with the steering wheel removed, take these 4 screws out and remove the rear plastic half of the steering wheel
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1491.jpg)
22 - flip the wheel over, and pull the front section off by taking the 4 screws out, after you have the 4 screws out, there are 2 dowels on the bottom of the piece gently lift it out!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1492.jpg)
23 - now the plastic covers are off, start removing the blanking plate! lift the part where my thumb is over the little lug and push it to the side and down, down with the base of your thumb and to the side with the tip then the plate is off
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1494.jpg)
24 - install the switch, it goes in the same way the blanking plate comes out!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1495.jpg)
put the steering wheel back together, you can add the loom now, or do it when the wheel is installed, it makes no difference
if you need to replace the clock spring, this part is for you!!!
25 - strip down the steering column as i have shown you in the top part of this write up
26 - remove the wiring to the clock spring, both connectors do the white one as described in the start and the yellow one like this
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1511.jpg)
27 - with both connectors disconnected you can pull the clock spring off easy as, it just clips to the column
locate the bottom tabs and gently pull them back so they disengage with the column
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1513-1.jpg)
28 - then the top clip
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1513-1.jpg)
29 - and the clock spring is off!!!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1536.jpg)
30 - the new one just clips in, locate the top clip then push the bottom ones on firmly, your new one will come with a yellow tab installed at the top, this is because they have pre wound it and it's ready to be installed... DO NOT WIND IT OR REMOVE THE TAB at this stage! leave it till last
note the yellow tab!!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1505.jpg)
31 - install the connectors on the steering column side, make sure everything is secure and not rubbing on anything, make sure the air bag connector is in properly!!
32 - re install the steering column shrouds now, so you dont have to go playing with the steering wheel moving it around just for 2 screws later on!!
33 put the wheel back on, install the switch wiring it should look like this
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1520.jpg)
34 - remove the yellow tab with the long nose pliers
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1519.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1518.jpg)
35 - put it on the old clock spring to keep it secure and in its correct position!!!
36 - connect up the horn button, then the air bag connector, dont forget to "lock" the yellow tab back in so the connector cant fall out!!
37 - put everything back together its the reverse of the removal!!!
38 - time to connect the battery together, I like to turn the key on and let the car do its start up SRS/airbag test with me out of the car, check to see if the airbag light turns off as normal just in case anything happens dont be in the car...
40 - re- program your radio, consult the corresponding page of your owners manual for your stereo on how to do this!!
TAA DAAA!!!! *drum roll*
finished product!!!
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1524.jpg)
this should only take you 30 mins if you have the correct clock spring, and probably 45 mins if you need to replace it! its really not a hard job and you dont need exotic tools for the job!
p.s thanks to pauly for the photos, those ones i forgot to take!!
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Fantastic post. Thanks for doing that mate :)
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no probs mate... just hope it helps anyone wanting to do this mod! its seriously not hard and worth it!
i freaked out when it went missing! it literally too me more time to make this post than it did to install the switch!!
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Good effort, well done- sure plenty will get use of this post
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Fantastic Post, agent.... :cool:
I must be getting old, I don't think I'd even attempt something like that these days, even with all your great pics and instructions.... :-[
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Terrific job Ian... you were definitely the best member we had on the site (yesterday) :wink: :D
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HAHAHAHAHA what can i say? i do it for the childeren!!
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Great stuff. I might have missed it but how much was the replacement clock spring, and where did you get yours from?
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the local hyundai dealer... it was $77
lol ive seen a couple of errors in there... would someone please do a spell check?
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nice post Ian. :cool: in section 24 you've got the steering wheel fascia in the pic,i was going to paint my one silver like an slx or the sr. but after seeing how much work is involved in getting that part out i may give it a miss. :idea:
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mate, i think ive over-complicated the process... its really really easy... same as any other car you have pulled the steering wheel off of!!
me personally, i would buy a genuine one and fit that lol only because i hate painting plastic!
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I'll look into it. get a price. :razz:
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Thanks agent31. I'll go to my local dealer.
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no probs mate! glad to help!
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the local hyundai dealer... it was $77
lol ive seen a couple of errors in there... would someone please do a spell check?
$77 for clock spring- wow, wonder if they made a mistake? i was quoted $200 best retail price.
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lol ive seen a couple of errors in there... would someone please do a spell check?
I fixed a few Ian but not too bad.. I have some stupid IE8 issue with longer posts where the cursor jumps around so lost patience in the end and a bit scared of deleting something by accident and stuffing your GR8 post..
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thanks dazzler!!!
$200... wow
i dont think it was a mistake...
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.. I have some stupid IE8 issue ..
* get * a * proper * browser * :P :P
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nah... dont listen to them dazzler... there browsers are the devils work!!!
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Better than Haynes
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Does anyone know if the clock spring is the same as in kia ceed?
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Does anyone know if the clock spring is the same as in kia ceed?
it does say "kia genuine parts" on the box too
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http://service.hyundai-motor.com/ (http://service.hyundai-motor.com/)
If anyone has doubts about clock spring it can be checked here (part number of clock spring originally mounted in your I30)
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Unfortunately it's not for Australians..... :-\
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Thanks agentr31! Your post was very useful. Instalation succesful!
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Great post ! :goodjob: Fortunately we got it installed from factory. Otherwise it's too hard for me. :sweating:
Btw, i don't have the device which can fix the speed while driving (it is supposed to be on the right of steering wheel), is it possible to buy and install ?
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Various aftermarket Cruise control kits are available Can search on here using the word Cruise for more details (Not cheap at maybe around A$800 fitted) Not something you can do yourself...
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Thanks for the advice. I noted that the cruise control kits are usually not the original type from factory. Indeed, it's complicated for DIY :faint:. I shall forget it. :wacko:
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Thanks agentr31! Your post was very useful. Instalation succesful!
BINGO another happy customer!!!
no problems mate!
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Hey guys. First post here but I've been reading these forums for a few months now.
Just bought a 2009 i30 SX and it doesn't come with either the radio or cruise controls. This car still has the manufactures warranty.
I've contacted the dealer about adding these and, despite forwarding him to this post, he says it can't be done. What I'm curious about is, if I buy the parts, will I void the manufactures warranty by installing these myself?
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What I'm curious about is, if I buy the parts, will I void the manufactures warranty by installing these myself?
Welcome Denny.. Only if you blow something up while installing them.. :whistler:
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:judges: brilliant :judges: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:
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I'm having some major troubles getting past stage 13 (the removal of the airbag). I keep pulling and wiggling but after 20mins I'm not seeing much improvement. I've loosened the t40 torx screws in stage 12, but I still see them moving as I attempt to pull out the airbag - do they need to come out completely from their sockets for this to work? any suggestions on how to get them fully out - they're pretty deep sockets?
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Ian (AgentR31) has a girlfriend again so he is not on much these days .. So I'd PM him for help if i was you.. (if you don't get a response let me know and I will message him via facebook)
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i thought the airbag came off of the steering wheel after those torx bolts were removed,then just unplug the air bag wiring in the column. :confused:
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i thought the airbag came off of the steering wheel after those torx bolts were removed,then just unplug the air bag wiring in the column. :confused:
How do I remove the torx bolts? I've unscrewed them, but needle nose pliers can't even get them out.
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if you pull the airbag towards you whilst undoing the screws it should come off. :confused:
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if you pull the airbag towards you whilst undoing the screws it should come off. :confused:
Of course! The tapered bolts described would fully undo then. Audio remote is now fully installed and working great - as soon as I read your golden nugget of obviousness the rest of the project went smoothly. I ended up not disconnecting the airbag wiring as I couldn't figure out the clip and was worried about damaging things - just left the rest of the job slightly more awkward.
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bit late to reply, but good to see you have done it mate, its bloody easy!
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Yeah, it's my very first car mod - on my first car - and understanding the tapered bolts was really the only stumbling block. Simple mod. Thanks again.
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technically, the taper is to aid installation as there MAY be a slight misalignment, some bolts also have the bottom 2~3mm slightly smaller with no thread too around the body of cars!
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Yikes! I priced these parts from the gen-you-whine Hyundai dealer...
$120 for the switch and around $35 for the wiring loom. :Shocked: I haven't yet checked if I will need the clock spring.
I saw mention of an eBay seller (Cheep car parts 4U) on another post for i30 rear spoilers, but it looks like he has now closed up shop(?)
What about Hyspares? Are they any good?
Do you chaps (and chapettes) have any other sources for these parts?
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Yikes! I priced these parts from the gen-you-whine Hyundai dealer...
$120 for the switch and around $35 for the wiring loom. :Shocked: I haven't yet checked if I will need the clock spring.
I saw mention of an eBay seller (Cheep car parts 4U) on another post for i30 rear spoilers, but it looks like he has now closed up shop(?)
What about Hyspares? Are they any good?
Do you chaps (and chapettes) have any other sources for these parts?
Welcome aboard, Bitsumishi.
I don't know when you tried Darren, but here are his contact details.
cheepcarparts4u@bigpond.com
0417 191 110
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I'm sure he's still open for business,it wasn't that long ago i bought a rear spoiler from him. :goodjob2: :goodjob:
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Thanks folks! I've fired off an email to Darren, so will keep you posted if I get any results.
BTW: I changed the oil and filter in 'Obie' yesterday at 3526klm. The oil was pharked! :wacko: I'm also going to change it again at 7500klm, then let Hyundai do the first 'real' service at 15,000. Glad I didn't decide to leave the oil change until 15,000!
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Yikes! I priced these parts from the gen-you-whine Hyundai dealer...
$120 for the switch and around $35 for the wiring loom. :Shocked: I haven't yet checked if I will need the clock spring.
I saw mention of an eBay seller (Cheep car parts 4U) on another post for i30 rear spoilers, but it looks like he has now closed up shop(?)
What about Hyspares? Are they any good?
Do you chaps (and chapettes) have any other sources for these parts?
Welcome aboard, Bitsumishi.
I don't know when you tried Darren, but here are his contact details.
cheepcarparts4u@bigpond.com
0417 191 110
You getting a kickback UM :question: :D
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Yikes! I priced these parts from the gen-you-whine Hyundai dealer...
$120 for the switch and around $35 for the wiring loom. :Shocked: I haven't yet checked if I will need the clock spring.
I saw mention of an eBay seller (Cheep car parts 4U) on another post for i30 rear spoilers, but it looks like he has now closed up shop(?)
What about Hyspares? Are they any good?
Do you chaps (and chapettes) have any other sources for these parts?
Welcome aboard, Bitsumishi.
I don't know when you tried Darren, but here are his contact details.
cheepcarparts4u@bigpond.com
0417 191 110
You getting a kickback UM :question: :D
Not at all, Phil. Just passing on the details of the cheapest Aussie supplier of i30 parts that I've managed to track down.
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Just joking UM :goodjob2:
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We're all sharers & carers on this forum :goodjob2:
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Ulp! Not trying to start a flame war here! :scared:
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It's all part of the friendly banter, no worries. Is that your cat in the avatar, looks nice. We have a pet pic thread somewhere.
UM recently pointed me to Darren as well. Got a full set of filters for my car's Hyundai service for a great price, I'm very thankful for UM's help :D
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BTW: I changed the oil and filter in 'Obie' yesterday at 3526klm. The oil was pharked! :wacko: I'm also going to change it again at 7500klm, then let Hyundai do the first 'real' service at 15,000. Glad I didn't decide to leave the oil change until 15,000!
Hi Bitsumishi,
The Oil in your Diesel will go black really quickly but if it is the correct Fully Synthetic Oil it will still be doing its job after 15,000kms (they go further than that between changes in parts of Europe)
Don't worry ... very little real flaming on here.. but we do have a flamin' good time :happydance:
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Just joking UM :goodjob2:
Well aware of that, old mate. I know you're a happy camper with Darren's prices & service. :mrgreen:
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It wasn't the 'blackness' of the oil that worried me - more the fact it appeared to have no tack. Who knows what crap they chuck in at the factory?
I used Castrol EDGE 5W-30 A3/B4 in Obie, so at least I know WHAT oil is now in the car.
I also ride motorcycles and am a stickler for over-the-odds oil changes. To me, oil is a (relatively) cheap insurance policy especially as I tend to keep my cars for a long time.
Thanks for all the replies!
BTW: That cat is one of a pair of Tonkinese - Jake and Elwood :D
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Don't worry ... very little real flaming on here.. but we do have a flamin' good time :happydance:
Yep, Dazz is quick with his extinguisher, he's only had to put me out once :-[ :mrgreen:
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Thanks for Darren's contact details. He got back to me, but can't do any better in price, so it looks like I will be trundling off to the dreaded dealership.
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Had a squizz this arvo at the car to see if I need a new clock spring... Nope! :P
However, I struggled to get those damn steering wheel shrouds off - took me nearly 40 minutes of swearing and poking to pry them apart! I might take a few pics of the 2 parts to add to Agent31's great photo journal.
As I damaged a couple of the shroud tangs I'll leave it off until I get the parts. I've already super-glued the tangs so they should be good as new when I reassemble them.
Damn! Wish I'd bought the parts as I'm now keen to get the job done. It will take about a week to get the parts in :rolleyes: but I probably may have got cold feet if I also required the clock spring...
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Hope it all goes well when the parts come :goodjob:
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Phark! :mad: Trap for young players! I may have ordered the incorrect wiring.
I just found Ugly Mongrel's post about different wiring for different harnesses at https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=10444.msg117783#msg117783 (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=10444.msg117783#msg117783)
I have factory fitted cruise, so instead of the 2L-300 cable (audio controls only) I most probably need the 2L-500 cable (both audio and cruise controls).
Can anyone verify it who has done this mod?
I was all keen to finish this on Saturday, but doubt anyone would have the 2L-500 cable in stock. :blubber:
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You're correct, bitsy. If you already have cruise, the cable you need is the 2L500.
It has two connectors, one for audio & one for cruise.
When you do your mod, this cable replaces the existing single connector cable that feeds the cruise controls.
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Thanks for confirming that, Ugly.
Damn. I was like a little kid waiting for the weekend to do the mod...
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No worries, mate. Hold ya horses. There are plenty of weekends left :goodjob2: :goodjob2:
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Heh. Well. Yes. I've pulled myself up off the floor where I was having my tantrum.
I ordered the replacement part yesterday which should arrive early next week. Then I can begin my countdown to the weekend...again.
BTW: Happy Birthday to you lot! From the interaction I've experienced thus far, this appears a very friendly and knowledgeable mob.
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Good luck. Let us know how the mod goes.
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BTW: Happy Birthday to you lot! From the interaction I've experienced thus far, this appears a very friendly and knowledgeable mob.
Oh come now, you're only saying that coz it's true :mrgreen:
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@agentr31 : excellent job :D
Please more info : I would like to paint in silver the plastic cover where the audio controls fit into . But is this possible only after the airbag removal and then remove the cover screws, without dismounting the steering wheel ? I see in the link (http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1485.jpg) that you did dismounted , it is necessary in my case ?
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Yep. Go back to page one of this thread and look at the first pic again. You have to remove everything to access the screw that holds the audio control in from behind.
This pic from agentr31 shows the screw and blanking plate from behind:
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1492.jpg (http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/agentr31/adding%20steering%20wheel%20controls%20to%20i30/SANY1492.jpg)
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Yee-har! Audio controls added, tested and working. :happydance: :happydance: :happydance:
I learnt a few 'traps for young players' doing this, so will post some pics and words as an adjunct to Agentr31's most excellent original how-to post.
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Congrats :goodjob: :goodjob2: :happydance:
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Well done, bitsu :goodjob2:
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Well done, bitsu :goodjob2:
:whsaid:
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Well done, bitsu :goodjob2:
:whsaid:
:whsaid: :whsaid: :lol:
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Hi I mounted the Volume control on my i30 Classic but don´t work.
I read this:
"40 - re- program your radio, consult the corresponding page of your owners manual for your stereo on how to do this!!"
How can I re-program my radio? Do I have to go to hyundai technical service for this?
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This posting is an addendum to the wonderful post from Agentr31 - without that original post I would not have tackled this project! Please use Agentr31’s post for FULL instructions.
Er, apologies are in order as I promised to post these pics waaaaay back in May 2012. Sorry, life got in the way...
Note: The only difference in my mod was I already had Cruise Control (RHS of wheel) so was adding Audio controls (LHS of wheel). I needed the 2L-500 cable (both audio and cruise controls), whereas if you are only installing audio controls and do not have cruise control you will need 2L-300 cable (audio controls only).
For my installation I did not need to replace the clock spring - 2011 model i30
Here is a pic of the airbag still attached to the steering wheel cover -
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Here’s a pic of the steering column with the airbag removed -
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Steering wheel removed from car with wiring disconnected -
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Steering wheel flipped over with back shroud removed to access wiring
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This pic shows how the wiring was routed
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Here’s the fitting (from rear) showing the blanking plate (refer to Agentr31’s pic 24 for front view of his fitting with audio controls fitted)
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Blanking plate removed - pesky little thing to remove!
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The lug is easily damaged, so be careful!
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Thanks very much .. Excellent stuff :goodjob2: :goodjob:
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Here’s the old (installed) and new (at bottom) wiring
Because already had cruise, the cable I needed was the 2L-500.
It has two connectors, one for audio & one for cruise. This cable replaces the existing single connector cable that feeds the cruise controls.
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Audio Controls mounted and new wiring routed.
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Here’s pics of the upper and lower shroud after I repaired the lugs with SuperGlue. Lots of naughty words said when I originally tried to prise them apart! (Also see pics 1-5 of Agentr31’s post)
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more...
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more...
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Here it is.... all together and working like a bloody charm! :cool: :lol: :happydance:
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:Agoodjob: :Drive:
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:goodjob:
You're braver than I am.
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That was one way to up your post count! :whistler:
Thanks for posting though... :goodjob:
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Post count be damned! :disapp:
I tried doing it as one big post but was limited by 50kb each pic/200kb of pics per post. Maybe because I'm still a relative newbie here I have that as a limitation?
I wanted to do it as one big post - as per Agentr31's original post - but wasn't allowed.
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Was just teasing, Bitsumishi.... :D
Btw, you would be best off hosting your photos on photobucket and then just post the links.
There's a "how to" here (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=13057.0)
Cheers :)
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Aw, Rusty... I knew you were taking the piss so I'm not offended.
Besides it gave me the opportunity to add to my post count :lol:
Thanks for the PhotoBucket link - that's very useful.
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I was just thinking if this was possible. That's the one thing I miss from the Getz - the wheel audio controls!
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Hey everyone,
Just picked up a 2011 i30 CRDi a couple of weeks ago. Loving it so far!
We're wanting to install the audio controls and already have cruise control fitted. Been looking around for the control and found various places that sell it.
eBay - $30 posted - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-Steering-Wheel-Audio-Control-Button-fit-Hyundai-Elantra-Touring-2007-2011-/120910850241?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AElantra&hash=item1c26d928c1#ht_2322wt_952 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-Steering-Wheel-Audio-Control-Button-fit-Hyundai-Elantra-Touring-2007-2011-/120910850241?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AElantra&hash=item1c26d928c1#ht_2322wt_952)
KORAPS - $41 posted - http://koraps.com/shop/item.php?it_id=325358 (http://koraps.com/shop/item.php?it_id=325358)
Hyundai spare parts - $144
Korean Auto imports - $62 posted - http://www.koreanautoimports.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=31_529_201&products_id=1159 (http://www.koreanautoimports.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=31_529_201&products_id=1159)
Big difference in prices! The eBay looks like an OEM, so I'm not sure whether the button lights up when the headlights are on (just like the cruise control does). The KORAPS one looks promising though as I read on another thread that someone purchased from there and it lights up too.
Just wanted to know your experiences with purchasing from KORAPS/Korean Auto Imports and whether they're genuine parts.
Thanks in advance!
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A few folk, including escusemay sent me private posts asking about pricing for parts for this mod.
Whilst I am sure there are always cheaper prices, I'd advise caution to use genuine parts especially for a car still under warranty. The scenario I use is when there is a warranty repair to be done requiring the steering wheel to be removed at least the technician will see genuine parts and not have cause to void or refuse a warranty claim that may or may not be related to those parts.
Think of it as an inexpensive insurance policy...
So, if you are assured those parts are genuine (not convinced about that $30 eBay item) then the price is indeed a bargain. Yes, the button lights should light up when the headlights are on.
I'm the last person to complain about chasing a bargain, but in my case (in this particular instance) I was more than happy to fit the genuine parts onto a vehicle I indeed to use every day and keep for (hopefully) many, many years.
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Thanks for the heads up, Bitsumishi. Yeah I'm worried about voiding the warranty too! The ebay seller wasn't sure whether their part is genuine, so I'm leaning towards it being an OEM non original. Will give them a pass. If KORAPS does sell genuine parts, then that's definitely a win-win for us. I'll email them and let you all know what they say.
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Hi All,
I've just done the mod and it is working fine. Only problem is that since doing the mod my ESP OFF light is on. I did note that when I pulled the airbag out that the airbag cable had been crimped but it didn't look damaged.
Has anyone else had this issue? If there was an airbag issue is it likely to bring on the ESP OFF light or is there a SRS light? I have had the ESP light OFF issue in this and another vehicle before as a result of brake switch failure but it seems a bit to much of a coincidence. However I guess anything can happen when the battery is disconnected.
Any thoughts appreciated!
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My ESP OFF light always illuminates when I've had the battery disconnected. The next engine start has always cleared it.
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My ESP OFF light always illuminates when I've had the battery disconnected. The next engine start has always cleared it.
Thanks Shambles, everyone else can stop looking!
It just so happens that I had started the car several times in the driveway but the light remained on. Interestingly tonight when I went out to pick up our Japanese takeaway food, the light was still on however when I got back in the car with a big bag of tasty Japanese food when I started the car the light went off straight away!
My two theories -
1. After the battery has been disconnected the ESP light stays on until the car has been for a drive and had a chance to re-validate sensors.
2. Korean cars have a secret hankering for Japanese food and will do pretty much anything to get some.
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Yep, I'd forgotten to mention the same thing happened to me when I did my mod - I nearly shat myself! :faint:
However, this post pointed me in the correct direction - https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=11461.0 (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=11461.0)
I went for a drive and all righted itself.
Enjoy those audio controls Berocca! :happydance:
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Managed to get my audio steering controls installed tonight. All in all, a pretty straightforward installation. Had a few question marks along the way, but the pictures really do make a big difference. Big thanks to Bitsumishi for recommending the local Brisbane Hyundai parts supplier. They were about 5 min away from home!
I ended up purchasing the steering wheel controls from Koraps for around $28 posted (cheap/slow post took around 2 weeks). The wire loom I picked up from Hyundai Genuine parts for $39.90 today after work. So all up, managed to get everything installed in under an hour and it costed less than $70.
Only thing that got me worried was the clock spring. It was already there, but I accidentally moved it slightly and the arrows didn't match up. Read on the instructions on the actual unit itself to rotate it 3 turns, then tighten it or something. I turned it a few times but it was still loose, so I turned it the opposite way the same number of times and hopefully left it as where it was originally. Installed the steering wheel, connected the battery and fired up the engine. Typed in my radio code and went for a quick drive around the block to re-calibrate the ESP. All working good now. I was really worried the air bags would go off in case I didn't connect something properly but fingers crossed I did it correctly.
Thanks again! No more reaching for the radio as often now :)
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Well done escusemay! :happydance:
However, I can't take all the credit for pics and recommendations. Let's not forget agentr31 :goodjob2: who posted the original pics, instructions, and hints. Without his great post I wouldn't have tackled the task or added to his great set of instructions and take more pics.
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Great results all around .. Sesame Street hasn't got a monopoly on co-operation :happydance:
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Great result. :goodjob2:
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You sir are #LEGEND " thank you! :D great post indeed * CLAP * I will take this into consideration when I will tamper with it :P
glac
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This is awesome!
I really want to do this but don't want to wreck anything!
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just follow the instructions, take your time and you will be fine.
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Just do it, Hman! With all the instructions and pics provided by agentr31 :goodjob2: and myself :mrgreen:, and success by the people who have now done this mod, it is as good as having a step-by-step workshop manual!
All you need to do is be methodical - stepping through the instructions and in a couple of hours you'll have glorious audio controls. Believe me, it was well worth it.... especially when you know you've done it yourself every bit as good as the factory.
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it is as good as having a step-by-step workshop manual!
Ohh yeah!! if not better! *fist pumps the air*
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...and not to forget: Happy Birthday today to us! :happydance: :happydance: :happydance:
This is an excellent forum and I am happy to be a member!
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Well said Bitsumishi :goodjob:
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i wonder if installing the cruise is as easy as the volume control buttons...
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i wonder if installing the cruise is as easy as the volume control buttons...
My guess is a confident yes. :cool:
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I can't quite make out in the original pic what this should look like, but based on this pic I don't think I need a new clock spring.
Is that right?
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Go back to pic 10 of agentr31's original post. If the pic is too blurry (as is your pic!) then check agentr31's accompanying wording: "if you only have the bottom row, then you need a new clock spring!" That's how I determined I could do my mod without a clock spring. From what my poor, tired, old, four-eyes can see, I _think_ you should be okay.
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Thanks.
I'm trying to order the wiring Loom from Hyundai but they can't help me unless I have the full part number.
I already have cruise so I need the part ending in 2L500 but what are the numbers/letters before that?
Can someone post the full part number?
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Thanks.
I'm trying to order the wiring Loom from Hyundai but they can't help me unless I have the full part number.
I already have cruise so I need the part ending in 2L500 but what are the numbers/letters before that?
Can someone post the full part number?
56190 2l500 i think.
on the first page, the second (?) pic, where it has the wiring, use the first half, change the second half.
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Thanks
I tried that number with a dealer I was emailing and he said that didn't help.
Can anyone confirm what the part number is?
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Not much of a dealer if they can't find the part number themselves.... :fum:
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Is this any help? :)
:link: (http://www.hyundaipartsaccessories.com/parts-catalog/hyundai/elantra/2010/touring-gls/2-0l-l4-gas/steering-column/steering-wheel-and-trim)
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Based on that, it seems the number DCSY suggested is correct. That also confirms that the dealer that I was talking to is useless!
Can anyone confirm the number based on what they put in their car? I think I'll just buy this part number. Thanks guys!
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Based on that, it seems the number DCSY suggested is correct. That also confirms that the dealer that I was talking to is useless!
Can anyone confirm the number based on what they put in their car? I think I'll just buy this part number. Thanks guys!
If you wanna give the Ryde motor group parts a call, they quoted me 50 dollars or so for the wiring. gonna grab it off them the next time im there.
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Have a look at this thread. I posted a list of part numbers and which wiring loom needed to do the job.
https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=10444.msg117783#msg117783 (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=10444.msg117783#msg117783)
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Took my car in for a service, dropped by the parts store, they had z 2l500 loom in stock, bought it.
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Took my car in for a service, dropped by the parts store, they had z 2l500 loom in stock, bought it.
:goodjob:
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all I need now is the weather to get better, money for the switch itself, and time to do it.
side note: where is the best place to get the switch?
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Got the install done over the weekend, however, does not work with my pioneer headunit as of yet. It lights up fine so i assume it is working fine.. That may be due to me having the wrong patch lead (the one i have is also a 3.5mm plug however for an alpine unit). I have a new one coming in the mail.
(http://i41.tinypic.com/mk8174.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/ayrh1z.jpg)
(http://i42.tinypic.com/1huwjm.jpg)
(http://i43.tinypic.com/2hfnc5x.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/25zht6r.jpg)
PS. i bought mine from 'jayongmall' or something on ebay.
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after purchasing the correct stalk lead for my current head unit, all is working!
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Yay! :goodjob:
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I am stuck at step 12 & 13.
Step 12: I have loosened the 2 screws but can't get them out. Are they supposed to come out?
Step 13: I can't get the air bag unit off but I assume this is because of my issue in step 12?
EDIT I have read the post on page 2 about these steps but I can't get it off. I am loosening the screws while trying to pull off airbag cover but can't get it off.
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I tried it again a week later and it came off straight away.
It was so easy and fast to do this.
Thanks for the instructions guys!