[Weets]

Wont even turn over, it's not the starter motor or battery.

Had road side assistance come out and he thought it was the immobiliser, as when he tried to bi-pas <something>, it just cut out instantly.

He was there a while in the cold on new years eve at the top of a multi story. Eventually he helped push me over to the ramp so it could roll down and be recovered outside.  Got to the bottom, tried the engine started up fine, got home fine. Turned it off once home, walked the dog then tried to start it when I got back, still worked.  3 hours later, nothing again.

It's second hand (I've had it less than a week), and I only got the 1 key (no parent immobiliser key or w/e they are), so I can't check other keys to see if that's the issue.

Any ideas or past experiences that might help diagnose what the problem is?

It's booked in already for Monday, but at this rate will need a recovery to get it there.

Edit:  I did read this over: I30 Intermittent Starting Problem
But it doesn't crank, there is a slight click when the key is turned from somewhere near the battery (and electronics) in the front passenger side of the engine, but no further effort to get it started.

Edit #2:

Dashboard lights that are illuminated when trying to start it: 
ESP
Hand Break (obviously)
Red Battery Light
Red Oil Light

no others.

Air con and radio shut off when attempting to start and holding the key in the ignition position, but I believe this is normal?

[eye30]

Have you tried changing the battery in the fob?

Loose battery connection? (but suposed that was checked)

[Shambles]

One word springs to mind: interference.

I don't have time right now but do a forum search for that...

[Weets]

One word springs to mind: interference.

I don't have time right now but do a forum search for that...

The recovery guy suspected that, with it starting once out of the multistory, yet it has never been an issue in front of the house before, and it's a quiet area with fields of horses front and back and a single row of houses.

Unless I misunderstand you, I can't find much of help when searching.

[Weets]

Have you tried changing the battery in the fob?

Loose battery connection? (but suposed that was checked)

Yeah that was checked, he also played around for a while bypassing some connections which did cause the engine to try and turn over but it cut off immediately, which was when he started to suspect the immobiliser.

I've not tried changing the battery, although it continues to lock and unlock remotely just fine and from a good distance.  That said I was sat on the key while at the cinema, which was my first thought at what could be wrong.

I have a spare cr2032 if that's what they take, otherwise I'd have to wait for stores to open and it's new years day.

Edit:  cr2032 was the right one, replaced, didn't help any.

[Asterix]

The battery in the key is only for remote control, not the immobilizer.

Immobilizer: Will allow the engine to start, run for a few seconds and then shut down if something isn't right.

Could it be a bad earth connection near the battery...?

[Asterix]

Wont even turn over, it's not the starter motor or battery.

But it doesn't crank, there is a slight click when the key is turned from somewhere near the battery (and electronics) in the front passenger side of the engine, but no further effort to get it started.

Did the road assist guy read out the fault codes..?

If for example there's an error from the camshaft positioning sensor it will tell the ECU not to crank the engine to avoid damage.

Air con and radio shut off when attempting to start and holding the key in the ignition position, but I believe this is normal?

Yes 

[asathorny]

Last time that happened to me I was at Bannys Fish restaurant in Colne, and one of the serving guys ran out and said it was common just at that spot and sited their WIFI. 

I opened the door with my key,  which triggered the alarm, then started up and moved back a few inches and voila.  Or did I let it roll back a few inches.    I have memory problems <sigh>

Anyhow, cut a long one short, it was easily resolved.   

[Weets]

Wont even turn over, it's not the starter motor or battery.

But it doesn't crank, there is a slight click when the key is turned from somewhere near the battery (and electronics) in the front passenger side of the engine, but no further effort to get it started.

Did the road assist guy read out the fault codes..?

If for example there's an error from the camshaft positioning sensor it will tell the ECU not to crank the engine to avoid damage.

I was sat in the car, he didn't read anything out for me.  He spent ages checking all the fuses and going over the battery, I don't really know enough to know what else he tried, I was also on the phone a lot finding out who if anyone could come pick me up worst case scenario, as recovery would only have been local and was a good 30-40 mins drive from home.

[cruiserfied]

Its NOT immobilizer.

What did you/roadside assist do to rule out starter and battery?

[Weets]

Its NOT immobilizer.

What did you/roadside assist do to rule out starter and battery?

Checked power and voltages on all connections, as well as half the fuses.

There was a list he went through with me at the end before i drove off, just to sign off on what he did, i think I have a copy in the glove box, but it's mostly tiny notes as there isn't a lot of space for him to list everything, 3 lines at most.

Battery is brand new and close to fully charged.


Edit:  went out to the car and got the report from the glove box.

"12v + 5v feeds ok. no terminal So/50 (hard to tell) supply to starter motor. possible immobiliser fault, requires fault confirming at garage"

and that's all there was space for and cramped at that.

[Weets]

Just watched: 
Hyundai I30 won't start - YouTube

When I put the key in, there is no light on the right hand side at all.

Doesn't crank at all though.

Dashboard when trying to start the car: 


Would a faulty starter be something the guy from the AA could have checked or bipassed? could both (starter and immobiliser) go at once and rolling down 4 a 4 story car park then let it start?

As I said he did try to bypass something, as it cranked from what he was doing, but refused to turn over (he said fuel wasn't pumping, but that wouldn't explain no cranking when I turn the ignition.

[eye30]

Couldn't see fuel guage once vid starts  but to state the obvious   --  is there fuel in the car and the correct type?

[Weets]

Couldn't see fuel guage once vid starts  but to state the obvious   --  is there fuel in the car and the correct type?

Vid isn't of my car, just something I found regarding intermittent immobiliser.

Picture under it is of my dash.  1/4 tank left, at least 100+ miles of fuel. Had 3/4 a tank when I bought it, only used half, ran fine all the time, even after it started up again randomly, nothing leads me to suspect anything is wrong with the fuel.  Also even when empty it should still crank. Starter motor isn't engaged at all as I mentioned.

[cruiserfied]

Forget about immobiliser. The engine will still crank if there was an immobiliser concern.
You said there was a clicking noise and radio etc cuts out when trying to start. The switch side of the start circuit should be fine.
I dont know what the guy tested but if he jumped the starter and it tried but wouldnt fully crank, there is a problem with the starter or starter circuit.
Hopefully the service provider its going to can find the problem.

[Phil №❶]

Before the starter can do it's job, a solenoid has to engage the ring gear to crank the motor. If the lights go out when the key is turned to crank the motor and you hear a distinct click in the engine bay, hold the key in crank for about 3 seconds, then turn off and feel the battery connections for heat AND also the starter motor for heat.

If battery connections are hot, you have bad connections and they would need cleaning. If starter is hot, then there is an internal problem inside the starter.

If you do not hear a clunk in the engine bay, the solenoid is faulty and no power is getting to the starter. Replace solenoid!

[Weets]

Before the starter can do it's job, a solenoid has to engage the ring gear to crank the motor. If the lights go out when the key is turned to crank the motor and you hear a distinct click in the engine bay, hold the key in crank for about 3 seconds, then turn off and feel the battery connections for heat AND also the starter motor for heat.

If battery connections are hot, you have bad connections and they would need cleaning. If starter is hot, then there is an internal problem inside the starter.

If you do not hear a clunk in the engine bay, the solenoid is faulty and no power is getting to the starter. Replace solenoid!

Should there not be a light to show that the key has been recognised and the immobiliser disengaged though?

I know cruiserfied, said it's not the immobiliser/key, but lack of light still leaves me concerned.

[elantraelite]

I doubt its an immobiliser issue.

When a had issues with the transponder in my Elantra it would still turn over, but it just cut fuel off to the engine.