[brianronald]

Hi all,

Has anyone had any knocks from front end?

I have so far replaced the following which has made no significant difference.

Steering Rack
Front bushes both sides
Link pins both sides

The problem is noticeable when the car drives off under strain. It knocks and creeks. Also when turning and again on bumps and small holes in the road.

The strange thing is, when it's damp outside, it's as if a rubber seal is being lubricated hence only when it's wet the noise is less. However, once dried up due to engine heat, the noise is back with a vengeance.

Any suggestions before I throw more good money at this?

I seem to feel strut top passenger side or drive shaft.

Thanks
Brian

[Shambles]

Grab the drop links, give them a good heave-ho and see if either of them moves. If so, replace both. Cheap as chips.

[brianronald]

Already replaced both sides. Thanks though. It's a bit of a mystery.

[Shambles]

So you did (missed the link pins part).

How much of the steering rack was replaced? Reason for asking, is my early FD knock symptoms were diagnosed as a worn plastic coupling, below the base of the rack.

[brianronald]

The universal joint I assume you mean? That has also been checked and is okay.

[Phil №❶]

Unfortunately, you have replaced items that didn't need replacing adding cost and inconvenience to your problem. IMO, the car should go up on a hoist for a complete inspection. Are you looking for a metal on metal sound, or a muffled clunk. Get someone else to check and agree on the type of noise. It may not be a suspension component at all. Look underneath where metal pipes are close together for any signs of movement or rubbing, engine components close to the body of the vehicle. Remember, under load, the engine / gearbox will flex opposite to the rotation of the engine so it may not look obvious on the hoist. Check the engine mounts that they are not worn and that ALL bolts are at the required torque settings. give things a good wriggle if you can and try to recreate the noise. You may need more than 2 people to achieve this. Good luck. 

[beerman]

Unfortunately, you have replaced items that didn't need replacing adding cost and inconvenience to your problem. IMO, the car should go up on a hoist for a complete inspection. Are you looking for a metal on metal sound, or a muffled clunk. Get someone else to check and agree on the type of noise. It may not be a suspension component at all. Look underneath where metal pipes are close together for any signs of movement or rubbing, engine components close to the body of the vehicle. Remember, under load, the engine / gearbox will flex opposite to the rotation of the engine so it may not look obvious on the hoist. Check the engine mounts that they are not worn and that ALL bolts are at the required torque settings. give things a good wriggle if you can and try to recreate the noise. You may need more than 2 people to achieve this. Good luck. 

Which is why no mechanic wants to get involved until the cause becomes obvious (ie something breaks).

Mine sounds like something tapping against the guard (Drivers side) at most speeds. If I steer the car slightly either way it goes away. It also goes away in the rain. I have had the plastic inner guard off and there is really nothing there that could be 'tapping'.

I'm seeing a suspension bloke today, hopefully the cause will be obvious.

[Phil №❶]

Good luck, too 

[eye30]

On my first i30 i had a tapping noise which turned out to be the exhaust joining bracket hitting the underside of the car body but only when going over uneven surfaces