Post by: Nonamesleft on January 14, 2017, 14:22:48
In July I got a new manual 2016 SR premium (the upgrade one with the red trim) and I'm a little dissapointed.
I went for the 2l thinking it would have a little more grunt and I'm coming from a 08 2l focus zetec so i expected similar.
My lil i30 is truly gutless, especially on any kind of incline. If the revs drop below 3k it dies in the ass, im talking 2nd gear up Mount Ousley kind of gutless, i have to drop to 3rd on some of the hills on the freeway from Syd to Newcastle. My focus would take these is 5th with ease!
I dropped a k&n filter into it and its made a slight difference (went for a run to Nelson this week) but i cant help but think somethings not right with it.
Anyone else find their 2L lacking? Even my friends earlier 1.8l i30 seems to have more pull. Does this sound right to you guus? If so, any suggestions that I can look at doing to give it a little more go that wont void warranty or should I just name it fido and accept its going to be a dog of an engine?
Dont get me wrong, i was by no means expecting a race car but I honestly expected more from a $30k SR. :(
Post by: CraigB on January 14, 2017, 14:29:08
Post by: Dazzler on January 14, 2017, 18:59:37
If you're having to drop back to 3rd on a freeway incline then I think you should take the car back to Hyundai and take the service manager for a drive to show him, somethings definitely not right there.Yes, what Craig said. I think from memory the 2.0 is a GDI motor? My wife went from a 2.0 litre pre GDI 2010 series 1 wagon to a 1.6 litre GDI in 2014. She found it a little sluggish around town compared to the previous larger motor, but it is fairly torquey on the highway so you seldom have to change down. I would expect the 2.0 GDI to be considerably better.
I would try and test drive an equivalent car.. :cool:
Post by: nzenigma on January 14, 2017, 22:43:06
If you're having to drop back to 3rd on a freeway incline then I think you should take the car back to Hyundai and take the service manager for a drive to show him, somethings definitely not right there.
Craig , Daz and ditto from me. Take it back.
Ask them if 2L stands for 'Too Little'. :happydance:
Post by: Dazzler on January 14, 2017, 23:47:20
Tim ( @cruiserfied ) number 2 Hyundai tech in the world and a service manager is a big fan of the SR. What do you think mate?
I would try a couple of different dealers for help if the first one you try fobs you off.. :undecided:
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 15, 2017, 02:48:05
I think I'll go pay them a visit tomorrow before work 😊
Post by: nzenigma on January 15, 2017, 07:27:15
We await their verdict. :neutral:
Please keep in touch, feed back from guys like you is helpful to other members; and hopefully keeps the dealerships on their toes.
Post by: cruiserfied on January 15, 2017, 10:23:33
How many km's? Has it been since new or is it something you have noticed recently? Could you have gotten a bad tank of fuel and fouled up the plugs or something? Some dipstick hasn't left a rag in the air filter after service?
Hopefully its nothing major.
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 15, 2017, 10:43:55
Ive done just under 7k kms on it, but I've let a few criends take it for a spin and even they dont think it's right.
As far as fuel goes, I always use bp 98 and try not to let it drop below 1/4 so i dont think it would be that, its not something that happened suddenly, just more and more apparent over time. Work is only 15 min away and most of my travel is shorter trips here and there, which is why I opted for the petrol over diesel (that and the diesel was only availavle in auto for the premium version and I wanted the extra goodies that come with the premium tag lol)
It just seems to have no guts in the lower revs and as soon as it hits an incline if i dont drop gears soon enough to keep the revs above 3k its almost like theres no acceleration, foot flat to the floor. So many times ive had to miss 4th and go back to 3rd on smaller hills on the freeway because if i drop into 4th its like I'm still in 5th.
Downhill its great lol but its a pita when cruise control has to disengage because ive had to drop back a gear or 2 even doing 120 before the hill, it hits the incline and dies :(
I dont want a speed demon, i have my bike for that (helooooo dual stage launch control and quickshifter :happydance:) but when a semi overtakes you on a hill on the freeway in a 6 month old 6 sp 2L car.... somethings not right :confused:
I'll keep you updated
Post by: Dazzler on January 15, 2017, 11:08:03
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 15, 2017, 11:15:48
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 15, 2017, 11:17:42
Post by: nzenigma on January 15, 2017, 20:22:12
Seems a bit lacking from your description. Your expectations seem to be right.
How many km's? Has it been since new or is it something you have noticed recently? Could you have gotten a bad tank of fuel and fouled up the plugs or something? Some dipstick hasn't left a rag in the air filter after service?
Hopefully its nothing major.
Tim, reading this later description, it sounds like the timing is retarded. Possibly OCV ????
Post by: cruiserfied on January 15, 2017, 23:23:00
Seems a bit lacking from your description. Your expectations seem to be right.
How many km's? Has it been since new or is it something you have noticed recently? Could you have gotten a bad tank of fuel and fouled up the plugs or something? Some dipstick hasn't left a rag in the air filter after service?
Hopefully its nothing major.
Tim, reading this later description, it sounds like the timing is retarded. Possibly OCV ????
It does sound it could be a timing concern, but i would expect a cam timing correlation DTC with MIL illumination.
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 16, 2017, 01:55:37
It booked into the service centre for jan 31st, earliest they had available :'(
I'll keep you updated.
Post by: The Gonz on January 16, 2017, 02:30:41
Post by: nzenigma on January 16, 2017, 02:38:19
= All Black Rugby supporter or Racist Aussie. ;)
Post by: The Gonz on January 16, 2017, 02:47:45
I think his concern is G.O.N.Z.Just don't look up GONZ in the Urban Dick and Hairy :crazy1:
= All Black Rugby supporter or Racist Aussie. ;)
Post by: Lakes on January 16, 2017, 05:20:53
you say below 3,000RPM . but in the info on this motor it says maximum Torque 201NM @ 4,700rpm so you need to keep rev's up at 4,700 to be on the Torque. this is how all the new petrol motors are these day's, even the V8's i have driven need a lot more rev's than i would have expected. it's the Torque you feel thrust you forward so if you want to feel the torque get the rev's up to 4,700rpm
Post by: The Gonz on January 16, 2017, 05:42:30
Post by: CraigB on January 16, 2017, 05:53:35
My little 1.6ltr would only need changing back to 3rd on some of the steepest hills here.
Post by: nzenigma on January 16, 2017, 06:40:31
Im still betting on a timing fault.
Post by: Dazzler on January 16, 2017, 10:26:29
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 16, 2017, 17:59:14
That is the case, when i change down the revs jump and it picks up majority of the time, but I still shouldn't have to be in 3rd gear to maintain 100kms up a small hill in a 6 speed car but even the engine doesnt sound right. Even on bulli im in 2nd with my foor flat to the floor. I hit the beginning of a hill, drop a gear and it still labours.
Same goes with normal hills I shouldn't need to go down 2 gears from 5th to 3rd to maintain speed on a normal incline. Or go from 6th to 4th to overtake on m7, that road is relatively flat.
The car tells you with its whole eco thing on the dash to change at around 2.5k, I usually run it up to at least 3k because it backs right off otherwise and its annoying af!
The engine should be run in by now and I shouldn't need to rev the guts out of a new car to avoid a line up of cars behind me.
I dunno, ive been driving manual for 10+ years and haven't experienced a loss of power on an incline like this before so it just doesn't seem right... it's making me second guess because otherwise its all fine so I dont understand why its happening. Its being a 'rolls cant hardly'... and its supposed to be the upgraded engine with the 10k extra price tag so its leaving a sour taste :head_knock:
Post by: Dazzler on January 16, 2017, 20:16:26
Post by: Phil №❶ on January 16, 2017, 20:22:59
Post by: Lakes on January 16, 2017, 20:40:45
If that turns out to be the problem, I'll make sure Firty's around for a long time to come. :Shocked:
Gonz for sure! the beauty of the little 1.6 CRDi is a nice flat Torque curve that starts around 1,900 rpm and carries at same 260nm TQ to 3,000rpm, thats why people who just look at power not TQ get a surprise the little 90kw hits harder than the 120kw motors that make lower TQ but need lot of rev's to make it, that is why all the new small pretrol motors are supercharged & turbo to be able to make good TQ at lower revs.
Post by: Lakes on January 16, 2017, 20:57:39
*her :whistler:
That is the case, when i change down the revs jump and it picks up majority of the time, but I still shouldn't have to be in 3rd gear to maintain 100kms up a small hill in a 6 speed car but even the engine doesnt sound right. Even on bulli im in 2nd with my foor flat to the floor. I hit the beginning of a hill, drop a gear and it still labours.
Same goes with normal hills I shouldn't need to go down 2 gears from 5th to 3rd to maintain speed on a normal incline. Or go from 6th to 4th to overtake on m7, that road is relatively flat.
The car tells you with its whole eco thing on the dash to change at around 2.5k, I usually run it up to at least 3k because it backs right off otherwise and its annoying af!
The engine should be run in by now and I shouldn't need to rev the guts out of a new car to avoid a line up of cars behind me.
I dunno, ive been driving manual for 10+ years and haven't experienced a loss of power on an incline like this before so it just doesn't seem right... it's making me second guess because otherwise its all fine so I dont understand why its happening. Its being a 'rolls cant hardly'... and its supposed to be the upgraded engine with the 10k extra price tag so its leaving a sour taste :head_knock:
Hi Nonamesleft , have you ever thought, even though you think your foot is flat to the floor, it is all controlled by software, you don't know how many % of throttle you are at, unless you have a hook up to the ECU that tell's you . the auto trans help more with this type set up as they smoothly drop a few gears to get you on the Torque.
the easiest way in a situation like this is if you have a Dyno & you have dynoed other i30 SR 2.0 manual so have a Dyno Power & Torque chart to compare with, you would know straight away. then search for the problem
good luck with it.
Post by: nzenigma on January 16, 2017, 21:41:14
Because you have a rarer model, we are all interested , but we are also shooting from the hip.
So I found someone who has actually test driven an SR.
Toby Hagon in Drive 2015. Writes, in part,:
The 2.0-litre engine that tops the i30 range has gone backwards in power (by 5kW) but its 124kW peak is still a generous serve. Teamed with 201Nm it makes for good mid-rev response for relaxed city motoring and easy acceleration. As part of the engine tweaks more emphasis was made on low-rev performance and the i30 is certainly pokey below 3000rpm.
Up hills, too, the SR delves into its generous dollop of torque, although it'll require a downshift or two when you call on extra acceleration.
It's indicative of an engine that's OK but in some ways underwhelming. Yes, it's more convincing than the 1.8 in other i30s, but some competitors (the Mazda3 SP25 and Holden Cruze SRi, for example) comprehensively out-punch it.
http://www.drive.com.au/new-car-reviews/hyundai-i30-sr-road-test-review-20150427-1mu3k5.html
Key points:
Good mid-rev response & easy acceleration
'Pokey' below 3000rpm
Up Hill, (gradient not specified) it is torquey with need to downshift for extra acceleration.
Underwhelming, but better than the 1.8L motor.
His list of quicker vehicles does not include the Bedford truck
In other words, your car definitely has a problem. You will love it when it is fixed.
Post by: Lakes on January 16, 2017, 21:58:20
Post by: Dazzler on January 16, 2017, 23:07:41
Post by: Vivalazuzu on January 17, 2017, 01:44:55
Mount Ousley - as long as i have the car in 5th gear keeping momentum i will make it without putting stress on the gearbox. 4th gear is also fine but revs over 3,000
M7 - I will overtake cars in 6th gear. if i put my foot down slightly the car will increase speed ever so slightly but i am able to overtake. i will downshift to 5th for more acceleration if i want to overtake quickly.
In a nutshell as everyone here has mentioned, get the car checked, or you can meet me on the M4 and we can race for pinks. if i win i get your car. if you win, my whole post here was irrelevant...... actually no we better not race... lol i like my car!! :) :) :lol:
hope it gets fixed soon :)
Post by: Doggie 1 on January 17, 2017, 01:55:35
Post by: The Gonz on January 17, 2017, 06:43:27
Post by: BigRed on January 17, 2017, 08:20:51
I see your running BP ultimate try using normal 91 ron fuel as the 98 maybe too much because of my previous car which I always used BP ultimate I was going to do the same with my i30 but my dad who works for Hyundai has said that they have actually had a car come in miss firing and not running right and asked the owner which fuel was being used and they said 98 the dealership told them to just use 91 and they never came back so I have been using BP 91 unleaded and have done 5500 km so far with no issues and depending on the hill i may need to drop back to 5th but can usually stay in 6th but mine is not gutless or anything at all and it pulls from just over 2000rpm so all I could suggest is change your fuel and see what happens hope this helps you out
Post by: CraigB on January 17, 2017, 09:51:08
Post by: eXDee on January 17, 2017, 10:54:49
I know the ol 2.3 MZR in the mazda 3 likes a higher RON and runs a bit smoother, but can also do 91 fine.
Post by: Phil №❶ on January 17, 2017, 11:37:38
Post by: CraigB on January 17, 2017, 13:26:37
High compression engines require at minimum 95 to 98 and if you've had tuning modifications done to the ECU in relation to timing advancements then 98ron is likely required also.
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 17, 2017, 15:17:02
@Nonamesleft -
In a nutshell as everyone here has mentioned, get the car checked, or you can meet me on the M4 and we can race for pinks. if i win i get your car. if you win, my whole post here was irrelevant...... actually no we better not race... lol i like my car!! :) :) :lol:
hope it gets fixed soon :)
Ok done.... but only if I get to ride my bike :winker:
I've booked her in but they're booked out until end of Jan, so I have to wait it out. I need the stereo looked at anyway because it randomly freezes sometimes, so 2 birds with one stone and all that.
Whilst on the subject of the stereo, @BigRed do you find yours ridiculously bright? I have it on the lowest brightness setting atm... I usually finish work at 11pm and drive home with the screen off most nights because its distracting and the glow from it reflects on the windows. I mean it's nothing major , but it would be good if the lowest setting went a little lower so it doesn't look like I'm shining a flash light under my chin and telling ghost stories. Especially if its been a bad afternnon at work, the bags under my eyes look bad enough without extra enhancement from the stereo :snigger:
Thanks for all the suggestions and input everyone, I do appreciate it and I'm taking them all on board. I'll try running some 95 or 91 and see how it goes until then.
My dad swears by his method of running 91 and every 3rd tank putting 95 and not letting it drop below half. He may have a point but I always thought it was good to run it down every now and then too, just not so low you may be sucking any sediment from the bottom of the tank maybe.
Anyways, I took the lil beast out on some back roads and tested the 4700 rpm max torque that was mentioned.
It doesnt sound too good for the engine at those revs but at around 4000 to 4500 in 2nd and 3rd it did boost it a little, didnt sound like the engine liked it much and it was yelling at me to change gears lol but it was cooler in the car than in my house so again, how awesome are the cooled seats :happydance:
Also, sorry if I come across as a little blunt at times lol thats something I gotta work on, its just frustrating after the few long trips I've taken lately and you know how once you notice something it plays on your mind, well... lets just say its gonna be a long wait to see what the service centre come back with.
Post by: nzenigma on January 17, 2017, 20:19:03
... too, just not so low you may be sucking any sediment from the bottom of the tank maybe.
It makes no difference. The fuel pump draws all fuel ( full tank or near empty) from the bottom of the tank. By obtaining fuel from high volume service stations, you will get little to no sediment.
Post by: Surferdude on January 17, 2017, 21:59:38
Agreed.
I've always been fascinated by people who won't let their tank get low in case it picks up sediment.
Sediment is just that. It sinks to the bottom where the fuel is always picked up from.
Post by: Lakes on January 17, 2017, 22:28:10
when you look at bore & stroke between the 1.8 motor and the SR's 2.0 motor , both have same 81 mm bore size the 2.0 just has its stroke increased by 10mm over the 1.8 but has more compression 11.5 to 1 i would not run lower octain with that compression i think 95 would be minimal as 91 burns faster, but having said that just using higher octane fuel will not give you more power just be easier on motor. the long stroke motors do not like high rev's. i prefer over square as piston speeds at rev's higher with a long stroke. also on compression ratio & fuel octane motor will make its best power on the verge of detonation so less octane can give you more power in some cases. BUT as you have said you do mostly short trips if you are in traffic a lot the 91 octane burns dirty gets carbon build up i've looked in motors that just ran on 91 lot of carbon in the combustion chamber, but on my motor bike that i only run on 98BP it was clean in chamber all the valves clean too. but hard to solve your problem & i can't see a dealer solving it as they are not hi performance tunners just mostly general repair & servicing. as i said before someone with a good chassis dyno who has had a car the same as yours on there dyno, could give your car a run on the dyno tell you if it is down on power. then go to dealer, but don't mention the dyno! but you will already know for sure see what they say. good luck with it.
also what year & model Ford Focus did you have before & was it diesel or petrol?
Post by: Dazzler on January 17, 2017, 22:30:05
You don't come across as blunt. You have been quite tolerant in the circumstances.
The ghost reference was a classic!
Bit cheeky they are making you wait a couple of weeks. When you drop it in, you might like to point out to them you have a legion of followers on the i30 forum who are waiting with baited breath for feedback on the dealer's service.. That should keep them on their toes.
BTW have you got a first name we can use that is shorter than Nonamesleft?
Post by: nzenigma on January 18, 2017, 02:50:07
As Daz has said, mention the GLOBAL interest your posts have generated. It should induce the dealer (yet to be named) to take the matter more seriously.
:twisted: A notice placed on the back of your car, apologising to other motorists for its poor performance, could put you at the front of the queue. :twisted:
Post by: BigRed on January 18, 2017, 07:34:07
Post by: Shambles on January 18, 2017, 08:19:05
Quote from: nzenigma
A notice placed on the back of your car, apologising to other motorists for its poor performance, could put you at the front of the queue.
:baps:
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 18, 2017, 12:33:48
but since I got the Android Auto software update done
Hmmmmm interesting.... Do you have the stereo with built in navigation? Because the dealer told me mine couldn't get the android auto update (which I was rather pissed about)
As for my name, its Bec and there were really no names left, at least none of the ones I tried :razz:
Lmao @ the sticker on the back... but I kinda prefer my #selfmade one. The one on the front says limited edition, which in this case may be true, just not the good edition lol
Anyway, heres a few pics of the culprit, excuse the dirt, I'm still mad at her for embarassing me on the freeway so shes been left dirty to think about what shes done (not really I just havent had time to give her a bath)
Also I may have to google what half of lakes post meant, bore stroke and pistons... sounds like a indepth porn review :snigger:
(http://i.imgur.com/HYMposi.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/p2Sc7X7.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NEiik5Z.jpg)
Post by: CraigB on January 18, 2017, 12:43:47
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 18, 2017, 12:50:34
Now you've done it, you mentioned porn :whistler: the guys will come running now :lol:
Porn and car pics.... works everytime! :whistler: Now I just gotta sort this slug business, buy a mechanics dictionary ti catch up on the lingo then upload a sneaky pic of bumblebette (crotch rocket) and go back to the kitchen to make everyone a sandwich. I'll have covered all my bases then and win the whole forum over :rofl:
Post by: CraigB on January 18, 2017, 12:52:32
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 18, 2017, 12:58:47
You've won me :snigger:
It was the red wheel caps that did it, wasn't it?! :victory:
(You will get used to my stupid humour hehe)
Post by: CraigB on January 18, 2017, 13:06:16
Your humour will fit right in here :goodjob2:
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 18, 2017, 13:11:33
Heres bumblebette (tick).... im off to google what engine compression ratio means (double tick) :victory:
Oh and @Lakes it was a 2008 ford focus zetec sedan, 5sp petrol. The stupid european one that cost a fortune for parts and went south at 200000km, hence the upgrade. But when it was good... it was really good :) I miss it sometimes... usually when I'm going up a hill!
(http://i.imgur.com/5oEen3N.jpg)
Post by: The Gonz on January 18, 2017, 13:14:25
Post by: CraigB on January 18, 2017, 13:37:03
Post by: Dazzler on January 18, 2017, 13:58:01
Post by: Asterix on January 18, 2017, 19:50:56
Post by: nzenigma on January 18, 2017, 21:45:34
If you add some go-fast stripes on the i30 it will climb the hills with ease... :mrgreen:
Don't you mean, go-fast stripes , a caravan and a Danish tail wind? :p
Post by: Lakes on January 18, 2017, 22:54:49
i just meant the 1.8 motor has a piston diam of 81mm & the distance the piston travels up & down the bore on the 1.8 is 87mm, with the 2.0 they could have increased engine size by increasing the piston diam , but they just kept the same diam at 81mm but increased the distance the piston travels up & down the bore to 97mm, so because they did it this way., it mean's the piston's in the 2.0 will have to travel further than the piston's in the 1.8 travel @ same RPM, so say at a given RPM the pistons in the 2.0motor will be traveling at a much higher speed than the pistons in the 1.8. but mean's nothing in real terms as your not racing. Just as the motor does not make maximum Torque till 4,700rpm & you noted it did not sound happy revving at that rev. the piston speed at that rev in the 2.0 would be a lot faster than the piston speed of the 1.8. if you revved to 6,500 a lot would be higher wear & tear.
I like your MC!
When you ride a performance MC, it highlights how unresponsive & cumbersome cars can be!!
Post by: The Gonz on January 18, 2017, 23:15:27
Post by: Doggie 1 on January 18, 2017, 23:57:42
It's the red caps :whistler: but the sandwich done it for me :lol:
Your humour will fit right in here :goodjob2:
:wss:
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 19, 2017, 01:17:50
That android auto comment still got me curious though *awaits reply from @BigRed *
Post by: Surferdude on January 19, 2017, 01:31:00
Post by: Slydog on January 19, 2017, 02:34:56
The red valve caps normally mean your tyres are inflated with nitrogen.Hopefully they don't have nitrogen in them.
:link: Top 10 reasons not to put nitrogen in your tyres - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCnWvMleVD0)
My mate that manages a tyre store also agrees, it's a complete scam.
Back on topic there definitely seems to be something amiss in your cars performance as my 1.6lt will happily trundle up a medium incline in 6th and if I need a bit more go I only need to drop back 1 cog to 5th and it's all good.
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 19, 2017, 04:36:07
The red valve caps normally mean your tyres are inflated with nitrogen.
Nah.... i just got red ones because it means it goes faster.... apparently not though :head_knock:
Post by: Surferdude on January 19, 2017, 04:53:19
Believe me, after 40 years in the tyre industry I'm fully aware of just how much of a scam nitrogen in tyres is. :goodjob:The red valve caps normally mean your tyres are inflated with nitrogen.Hopefully they don't have nitrogen in them.
:link: Top 10 reasons not to put nitrogen in your tyres - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCnWvMleVD0)
My mate that manages a tyre store also agrees, it's a complete scam.
Back on topic there definitely seems to be something amiss in your cars performance as my 1.6lt will happily trundle up a medium incline in 6th and if I need a bit more go I only need to drop back 1 cog to 5th and it's all good.
Post by: Surferdude on January 19, 2017, 05:02:50
Cadogen has always been one to exaggerate things but his message is correct, especially the mix of nitrogen and oxygen in air.
However his statement that the majority of tyre retailers are ripping people off by adding nitrogen is flawed.
AQFAIK, only Bob Jane and Jax promote it.
They don't even go close to being a majority.
So, no nitrogen for any of MY friends. :victory:
Post by: The Gonz on January 19, 2017, 07:04:36
Post by: BigRed on January 19, 2017, 07:47:07
(http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx204/bigfella1990/DSC_0063.jpg) (http://s756.photobucket.com/user/bigfella1990/media/DSC_0063.jpg.html)
As my car is not the SR premium I do not have the sat nav stereo unit and have the Apple car play and Android Auto instead. As far as I know the sat nav stereo unit is sourced from a different company to the Apple car play and Android Auto compatible unit
Post by: The Gonz on January 19, 2017, 08:18:37
For the same price I would choose the Apple/Android unit every time.
Post by: Shambles on January 19, 2017, 08:50:11
Post by: The Gonz on January 19, 2017, 09:41:34
:offtopic:
Hard to tell which part! :crazy1:
Post by: Dazzler on January 19, 2017, 10:44:47
:offtopic:That's a bit harsh.. :snigger:
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 19, 2017, 10:56:03
Built-in satnav is overrated until it's a clone of what you can get on your phone.
For the same price I would choose the Apple/Android unit every time.
100% and I'm still dirty that the premium unit has less functionality to the base model. For a 2016 model it should have mirrorlink as a minimum! The eco sport I had as a loaner for a few days even read my txt messages out to me !! :blubber:
Wonder if I can switch it out...
P.s sorry for leading them astray, I tend to do that also, but life would be boring if we all followed a straight road :whistler:
Post by: The Gonz on January 19, 2017, 11:00:05
Post by: mickd on January 20, 2017, 04:14:39
Did a trip to Newcastle when our X had 250km on it.
2 up weekend gear, 120 & A/C all the way.Changed back to 4th twice & 6.5 / 100. Same for Canberra trip.
Keep us posted and PLEASE name your dealer.
Nice bike too 👍
Post by: eXDee on January 20, 2017, 05:34:09
Hi octane fuel prevents detonation which is dangerous to motor engines. There may be additives that promote cleaner burning but are they worth the expense. The key to 98 fuel is the compression ratio.&
Also 91 ron fuel contains no cleaning additives, only 95 and 98 keep your engines fuel system clean.
High compression engines require at minimum 95 to 98 and if you've had tuning modifications done to the ECU in relation to timing advancements then 98ron is likely required also.
That's what i was asking about, is the compression ratio on these engines, and any other relevant tuning, actually in a position to take advantage of greater than 91 RON? Because i've been given and read advice that unless this is the case, you're often wasting your money. Does anyone have any insight on this?
Also re: cleaning agents and additives, I tend to fill up at :link: Caltex NZ (http://caltex.co.nz/products-and-services/techron-fuels/caltex-with-techron-fuels/) where possible, which has techron in all fuel types including 91 and Diesel. Caltex doesn't sell any in NZ without it. You go to Gull or a smaller outfit if you want those - which funnily enough has just been bought up by Caltex AU which is sort of confusing.
:link: Mobil NZ (https://www.mobil.co.nz/en/synergy-fuels) also has increasingly moved more into the premium fuels market, with more of its stations changing out regular for fuels with 'Synergy' additives - again present in 91.
Post by: CraigB on January 20, 2017, 06:01:54
It took 1/2 to 3/4 of a tankful before I noticed it running quieter and starting easier so that is what she uses all the time now, I've never done any fuel calculations on economy changes between the different fuels for her car but it definitely runs better.
I'm sure I read somewhere recently that 91 ron fuels were going to be phased out here before long, cant remember where I read this now :undecided:
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 20, 2017, 14:35:17
PLEASE name your dealer.
Being from Camden and all, you would know theres only 1 Hyundai dealer in the area... and they own both dealerships 😉
Post by: nzenigma on January 20, 2017, 21:25:51
..no nitrogen for any of MY friends..... his message is correct, especially the mix of nitrogen and oxygen in air...
.. :victory:
I find the Nitrogen fill works well if you also have Couplertec Electronic Rustproofing :whistler:
Post by: Surferdude on January 20, 2017, 21:54:06
:rofl: :goodjob2:..no nitrogen for any of MY friends..... his message is correct, especially the mix of nitrogen and oxygen in air...
.. :victory:
I find the Nitrogen fill works well if you also have Couplertec Electronic Rustproofing :whistler:
Post by: mickd on January 21, 2017, 03:19:26
Didn't think you where so close, and I know the dealer.
Post by: mickd on January 21, 2017, 03:39:30
Post by: nzenigma on January 21, 2017, 09:45:39
Now you've done it, you mentioned porn :whistler: the guys will come running now :lol::rolleyes: :rolleyes:
Hmmmmm...prophetic words. :twisted:
Post by: dnalor50 on January 25, 2017, 11:05:22
I have a 2015 SR having traded in my 2017 Focus and have done a few country trips. At 100-110 I rarely have to go lower than 4th gear. The SR does not have the same torque as the Focus (disappointing) but having an extra gear to play with helps in that regard. The only times I get down to third is when losing speed behind a slower car and having to accelerate from 80 or so. The SRs handling seems as good or better than the Focus but the engine needs to be revved harder and more gear changing is required.
Post by: nzenigma on January 25, 2017, 21:10:39
To go back to what Bec originally wrote:
"...truly gutless, especially on any kind of incline. If the revs drop below 3k it dies in the ass, im talking 2nd gear up Mount Ousley kind of gutless, i have to drop to 3rd on some of the hills on the freeway from Syd to Newcastle. My focus would take these is 5th with ease!"
You have driven both the SR and Focus. From what you also write, it would appear she has a big problem. Correct ?????
Post by: Dazzler on January 25, 2017, 21:42:54
Just saw your post otherwise I would have replied earlier.
I have a 2015 SR having traded in my 2017 Focus and have done a few country trips. At 100-110 I rarely have to go lower than 4th gear. The SR does not have the same torque as the Focus (disappointing) but having an extra gear to play with helps in that regard. The only times I get down to third is when losing speed behind a slower car and having to accelerate from 80 or so. The SRs handling seems as good or better than the Focus but the engine needs to be revved harder and more gear changing is required.
Thanks for that. Sounds better than Nonamesleft's car, but still a little underwhelming... :Pout:
Post by: Shambles on January 25, 2017, 21:45:43
Quote from: dnalor50
I have a 2015 SR having traded in my 2017 Focus ...
Anyone who trades in a brand new Ford for a 2 year old Hyundai gets a big :hatoff: in my book :goodjob:
Post by: Dazzler on January 25, 2017, 21:48:18
Quote from: dnalor50I have a 2015 SR having traded in my 2017 Focus ...
Anyone who trades in a brand new Ford for a 2 year old Hyundai gets a big :hatoff: in my book :goodjob:
:happydance: :snigger:
Post by: dnalor50 on January 25, 2017, 22:57:25
Post by: Dazzler on January 26, 2017, 00:32:49
...darn typos ..you know I meant 2007 focus :crazy1:
We both need to FOCUS more when we type.. I make lots of typos... :whistler:
Post by: nzenigma on January 26, 2017, 02:24:02
you know I meant 2007 focus :crazy1:
NO, we don't ! It was a Ford.
:happydance: :winker:
Post by: Nonamesleft on January 30, 2017, 23:18:34
Anyway shes in the hands of Hyundai now, they're going to loom at the stereo too whilst shes in there. Be interesting to see what they say although I have a feeling they will come back saying it's all fine.
I think she just needs some fine tuning, hopefully they plug her in and do a few tweaks and that fixes the issue *crosses fingers*
Post by: Surferdude on January 31, 2017, 07:44:29
Thanks for the reply @dnalor50 it helps heaps... 😊If they do say it's all fine, ask for a test drive in a similar car off their lot.
Anyway shes in the hands of Hyundai now, they're going to loom at the stereo too whilst shes in there. Be interesting to see what they say although I have a feeling they will come back saying it's all fine.
I think she just needs some fine tuning, hopefully they plug her in and do a few tweaks and that fixes the issue *crosses fingers*
Post by: dnalor50 on January 31, 2017, 09:37:10
Thanks for the reply @dnalor50 it helps heaps... 😊
Anyway shes in the hands of Hyundai now, they're going to loom at the stereo too whilst shes in there. Be interesting to see what they say although I have a feeling they will come back saying it's all fine.
I think she just needs some fine tuning, hopefully they plug her in and do a few tweaks and that fixes the issue *crosses fingers*
Let us know if there is any improvement after the service. Another way to improve highway performance is to anticipate gear changes and change down well before losing speed on approaching inclines. This needs to be done because the gear change is very slow. I find I have to press the clutch right to the floor, move the gear stick to the point of engagement and then ease it gently into gear. If you do this on a hill you will lose lots of momentum, so its best to change down early. With the 2007 Ford Focus (not sure about the 2017 ,sadly) a cursory stab at the clutch and a quick flick of the stick was sufficient. Any "stick flicking " on the SR results in high resistance and grating gears/synchro.
Post by: robnutz01 on January 31, 2017, 09:42:46
I drive up Mt Ousley daily with no issue. (I do have the diesel though).
Hopefully all will be sorted.
Post by: Dazzler on January 31, 2017, 09:57:02
I'd be very interested to hear what the dealer says was / is the problem.
I drive up Mt Ousley daily with no issue. (I do have the diesel though).
Hopefully all will be sorted.
The diesel is a different kettle of fish (much lower revs required for maximum torque) :goodjob:
the gear change is very slow. I find I have to press the clutch right to the floor, move the gear stick to the point of engagement and then ease it gently into gear. If you do this on a hill you will lose lots of momentum, so its best to change down early. With the 2007 Ford Focus (not sure about the 2017 ,sadly) a cursory stab at the clutch and a quick flick of the stick was sufficient. Any "stick flicking " on the SR results in high resistance and grating gears/synchro.
That is a shame! My Wife's 2014 1.6 GDi Tourer is no racing car but by the time it had done 10,000 kilometres the gearbox has been smooth and quick to change (no baulking or grating even if hurried) :cool:
Post by: CraigB on January 31, 2017, 10:05:37
Same as my gearbox, changes very nicely :goodjob2:
the gear change is very slow. I find I have to press the clutch right to the floor, move the gear stick to the point of engagement and then ease it gently into gear. If you do this on a hill you will lose lots of momentum, so its best to change down early. With the 2007 Ford Focus (not sure about the 2017 ,sadly) a cursory stab at the clutch and a quick flick of the stick was sufficient. Any "stick flicking " on the SR results in high resistance and grating gears/synchro.
That is a shame! My Wife's 2014 1.6 GDi Tourer is no racing car but by the time it had done 10,000 kilometres the gearbox has been smooth and quick to change (no baulking or grating even if hurried) :cool:
Post by: nzenigma on January 31, 2017, 20:28:41
I find I have to press the clutch right to the floor, move the gear stick to the point of engagement and then ease it gently into gear. If you do this on a hill you will lose lots of momentum, so its best to change down early. With the 2007 Ford Focus (not sure about the 2017 ,sadly) a cursory stab at the clutch and a quick flick of the stick was sufficient. Any "stick flicking " on the SR results in high resistance and grating gears/synchro.
Cant be right! Its 2017 not 1917, any serious review of the car would have ridiculed a gear change like that.
It sounds like you have a poorly adjusted clutch. Its not disengaging properly.
Post by: Lakes on January 31, 2017, 21:07:00
Post by: nzenigma on February 01, 2017, 01:30:08
...try double shuffle ( quick clutch move to neutral , then quick rev of motor clutch & shift at same time ) but normally not needed, a good gear box can flat shift fast ...
My father had a 1937 Ford V8, he did as you describe, it was called 'double de-clutch'.
Most of those early cars only had a 3 speed gearbox and no synchromesh when dropping from 2nd to 1st gear.
Maybe this another 'Retro' innovation ... no syncro and the good old double D. :rolleyes:
Post by: Doggie 1 on February 01, 2017, 06:00:00
Post by: nzenigma on February 01, 2017, 08:32:01
I still double de-clutch at times.
Me too. Old habits don't die. The neighbours think I'm a pervert. But I know, double de-clutching keeps me alive.
Grasps walking frame and exits left................................................. :sweating:
Post by: Nonamesleft on February 02, 2017, 03:59:29
Wonders will never cease! Road test = all fine and plug in showed no faults. However my trusty dash cam (iroadv9 so front and rear and audio lol) shows a drive down the road and shuts off then aprx 4 min later its in the workshop so hmmmmm....
The radio was updated and seems better, hasn't frozen so theres a plus.
Currently considering my options.
And yeah my gears resist and grind if I try too shift too quick.... must be a SR thing. I do miss that about the focus, she liked to run up through the gears. My dads 01 laser SR is the same
I think the gear box is tall for the engine. A 5sp would have been better suited.
Anyway maybe time to visit another mechanic and a dyno
Post by: Dazzler on February 02, 2017, 04:30:41
Post by: Doggie 1 on February 02, 2017, 04:35:31
Post by: Dazzler on February 02, 2017, 04:46:04
I think it has got to the stage of sending Hyundai Australia an official complaint! Say you are embarrassed to ferry people around in your $30,000 SR which is gutless with a slow and notchy gearbox...
Post by: Doggie 1 on February 02, 2017, 04:47:14
They eventually sorted my problem.
Post by: nzenigma on February 02, 2017, 05:26:12
Given that you were strung out until today, the subsequent lack of time spent on your car is reason enough for complaint.
I would give Daz's advice some serious thought.
On page 1, I pointed to a "Drive" road test, the author does not mention such poor performance or crunching gears.
Nor does another tester, who simply mentions an indistinct clutch position.
It would be worth an email to both authors asking for clarification, while asking if they have misrepresented the car?
To repeat the obvious, this is 2017 not 1917. How can Hyundai produce a vehicle with vintage performance and is so ill-equipped for today's motoring?
Post by: Dazzler on February 02, 2017, 07:46:14
By all means refer Hyundai Australia to this thread in your email... :idea:
Post by: nzenigma on February 02, 2017, 08:26:48
:happydance:
Post by: dnalor50 on February 03, 2017, 00:53:14
Ok so update....
Wonders will never cease! Road test = all fine and plug in showed no faults. However my trusty dash cam (iroadv9 so front and rear and audio lol) shows a drive down the road and shuts off then aprx 4 min later its in the workshop so hmmmmm....
The radio was updated and seems better, hasn't frozen so theres a plus.
Currently considering my options.
And yeah my gears resist and grind if I try too shift too quick.... must be a SR thing. I do miss that about the focus, she liked to run up through the gears. My dads 01 laser SR is the same
I think the gear box is tall for the engine. A 5sp would have been better suited.
Anyway maybe time to visit another mechanic and a dyno
Thanks for confirming my observations about the slow shifting SR gearbox . I have discussed this issue elsewhere on the forum and only received some very guarded acknowledgment that there is a problem. Apologies for hijacking the thread !
I agree with your observation that the gearbox is tall for the engine . 6th gear feels like an overdrive at the 100-110 speed limits and a change down is required for any incline.
Post by: Nonamesleft on February 03, 2017, 02:50:55
http://www.motoring.com.au/hyundai-i30-sr-2016-review-103112/ (http://www.motoring.com.au/hyundai-i30-sr-2016-review-103112/)
I think this review is more honest...
Post by: nzenigma on February 03, 2017, 03:34:18
...http://www.motoring.com.au/hyundai-i30-sr-2016-review-103112/ (http://www.motoring.com.au/hyundai-i30-sr-2016-review-103112/)Yes, The reviewer does not seem impressed with the SR performance but, unlike you and dnalor50, he says: "The six-speed manual had a good spread of ratios, and offered a precise, direct shift. It swapped cogs smoothly ..." :undecided:
I think this review is more honest...
@dnalor50. Im sorry that our responses were "very guarded acknowledgment that there is a problem". Not our intention to avoid the subject and glad to see that you have re-entered the discussion. :)
Similar to our interest in Bec's SR drama, we suggested too heavy oil used in the gearbox or ( and this is my main suspicion) the clutch is not disengaging properly.
You previously wrote: "The clutch must be pushed hard to the floor for each gear change. The gear stick needs to be moved to the point of engagement and then slowly eased into gear."
Have you physically observed the pedal to master cylinder and master cylinder to slave cylinder action?
Does there appear to be a lag in movement between each component, either air in fluid or mechanical adjustment can cause this.
In other words, if the clutch pedal has to go to the floor before it ( probably only partially) disengages the clutch, is there a lot of pedal free play when you first begin to press on the clutch.?
There is a metal push rod from the pedal to the master cylinder. It may need adjustment.
Post by: dnalor50 on February 03, 2017, 05:07:04
...http://www.motoring.com.au/hyundai-i30-sr-2016-review-103112/ (http://www.motoring.com.au/hyundai-i30-sr-2016-review-103112/)Yes, The reviewer does not seem impressed with the SR performance but, unlike you and dnalor50, he says: "The six-speed manual had a good spread of ratios, and offered a precise, direct shift. It swapped cogs smoothly ..." :undecided:
I think this review is more honest...
@dnalor50. Im sorry that our responses were "very guarded acknowledgment that there is a problem". Not our intention to avoid the subject and glad to see that you have re-entered the discussion. :)
Similar to our interest in Bec's SR drama, we suggested too heavy oil used in the gearbox or ( and this is my main suspicion) the clutch is not disengaging properly.
You previously wrote: "The clutch must be pushed hard to the floor for each gear change. The gear stick needs to be moved to the point of engagement and then slowly eased into gear."
Have you physically observed the pedal to master cylinder and master cylinder to slave cylinder action?
Does there appear to be a lag in movement between each component, either air in fluid or mechanical adjustment can cause this.
In other words, if the clutch pedal has to go to the floor before it ( probably only partially) disengages the clutch, is there a lot of pedal free play when you first begin to press on the clutch.?
There is a metal push rod from the pedal to the master cylinder. It may need adjustment.
Thanks for the detailed reply nzenigma. The clutch feels good and appears to be working fine, with the initial bite about 40-50 mm off the floor and there appears to be minimal free play at the start of the clutch travel. Pumping does not change the point of engagement. The gate or "H pattern" also feels well defined and perfectly adjusted The dealership tell me they have tested it extensively and there is no problem with the clutch or the gearbox. They have also changed the gearbox oil.
The dealer called in a Hyundai specialist to test the car and I noticed that he drove the car as I do, with a well defined pause before easing it into gear. I don't mind changing gears slowly and methodically, as this is how I drive most of the time, but even then I sometimes get a buzzing or snick, which can be felt through the gear stick. My concern is that these slight buzzes and snicks will result in worn synchro or other gearbox problems in the longer term.
I still maintain that the gearing is too high for Australian speed limits. They might be good ratios on an Autobahn or they may suit a diesel engine.
Post by: nzenigma on February 03, 2017, 10:49:55
The early Holden , that Lakes will remember , used to come out of a dealer's workshop with the clutch pedal set to operate near the floor. I hated it. I used to change the setting ( adjusting the rod going to the master cylinder) so that the clutch would operate with a tap on the pedal ( eg. at the top of the stroke) .
It comes down to this;
1. if your car is stationary and the clutch has properly disengaged the motor from the gearbox, it is not possible to crunch gears, because nothing is moving in the gearbox.
2. If you are crunching gears at take-off, the clutch is not working.
3. If you crunch gears while driving, as above, or the synchromesh is not working.
4. If these faults, that now appear to be quite pronounced, were evident during road tests, why did the tester say "...offered a precise, direct shift. It swapped cogs smoothly..."?
Why not ask him?
5. Who the hell, in 2017, changes gear "with a well defined pause before easing it into gear"
Post by: Doggie 1 on February 03, 2017, 11:48:36
5. Who the hell, in 2017, changes gear "with a well defined pause before easing it into gear"
Probably the same person who still double de-clutches. :D
Post by: The Gonz on February 04, 2017, 11:32:44
Post by: mickd on February 23, 2017, 22:11:19
How's it going since she's been at the "dealer"?
Had a chance to go over Razorback to compare to the PM description you sent?
As I said my 04 Mit Challenger manual will hold 80( even the 55 corners) no sweat.
You mentioned maybe a dyno test , any luck? Their is 1 at Narellan.
Mickd
Post by: Nonamesleft on February 25, 2017, 06:50:57
Been super busy moving house etc so the i30 has taken a back seat atm however now I've noticed the clutch pedal squeaking every time I press it, kinda like it needs some wd40 or something. Im going to go back down there again, not calling first this time im just going to rock up because its a brand new car with just over 9k kms on it so this is absoloute bullsh*t imo and if its doing this at less than 10k kms whats it going to be like in a few years....
If they fob me off ill be going to hyundai australia and i will direct them to this thread
Post by: mickd on February 25, 2017, 07:10:08
Premium - I don't think so.
Keep us posted :goodjob2:
Post by: Dazzler on February 25, 2017, 09:16:13
Post by: dnalor50 on March 01, 2017, 12:25:43
Hey @mickd
I've noticed the clutch pedal squeaking every time I press it, kinda like it needs some wd40 or something.
My clutch pedal squeaked intermittently for the first 10000km or so, but it seems to have fixed itself. The SR just had its 15000km service . I keep forgetting to mention the squeak to the service dept as I am more concerned with the notchy and slow gear-change.
Post by: Nonamesleft on March 04, 2017, 00:49:35
Post by: dnalor50 on March 04, 2017, 04:50:54
What did they say to you about the gearbox @dnalor50
No joy with the gearbox. I'm sure the service guys know the gear-change is not as good as it should be, but they stonewall me with " it's operating within specs, sir". The dealership agreed to let me drive a loaner manual, but it's been nearly one year and I'm still waiting. With the prevalence of automatics I think many people have forgotten what a good manual gear change feels like. As I mentioned in another thread it I can only blame myself for not insisting on test driving an SR manual before laying down cash.
Post by: Lakes on March 04, 2017, 07:49:23
Just thought for the gear box this might help, i have some in my Toyota 4x4 truck and it seems to shift smoother than before. i change gear box oil then added some of this, but you would not need to change you GB oil just take filler cap off and squeeze some through the hole, can't hurt. :link: Manual Gearbox and Diff Treatment - Nulon Products Australia (https://www.nulon.com.au/products/Specialty_Products/Manual_Gearbox_and_Diff_Treatment)
Post by: nzenigma on March 04, 2017, 08:01:52
Post by: nzenigma on March 04, 2017, 08:06:22
What did they say to you about the gearbox @dnalor50
No joy with the gearbox. I'm sure the service guys know the gear-change is not as good as it should be, but they stonewall me with " it's operating within specs, sir". The dealership agreed to let me drive a loaner manual, but it's been nearly one year and I'm still waiting. With the prevalence of automatics I think many people have forgotten what a good manual gear change feels like. As I mentioned in another thread it I can only blame myself for not insisting on test driving an SR manual before laying down cash.
Mate, I quoted a motoring critic a few pages back, who wrote a positive review. Why don't you contact him, as an owner, and ask him to justify his claims? :crazy1:
Post by: dnalor50 on March 04, 2017, 08:13:25
Sorry to read no improvement!!
Just thought for the gear box this might help, i have some in my Toyota 4x4 truck and it seems to shift smoother than before. i change gear box oil then added some of this, but you would not need to change you GB oil just take filler cap off and squeeze some through the hole, can't hurt. :link: Manual Gearbox and Diff Treatment - Nulon Products Australia (https://www.nulon.com.au/products/Specialty_Products/Manual_Gearbox_and_Diff_Treatment)
Thanks for the suggestion. I might try some Nulon as I'm getting desperate. I won't tell the service guys in case it voids the warranty !
Post by: Doggie 1 on March 04, 2017, 08:35:30
Post by: dnalor50 on March 05, 2017, 08:31:23
Mate, I quoted a motoring critic a few pages back, who wrote a positive review. Why don't you contact him, as an owner, and ask him to justify his claims? :crazy1:
Hey nzenigma, I did write to one motor writer about the problem (Paul Gover)and was advised that he drove a manual SR with "no drama". Paul suggested I get back to him after I have driven another manual SR and as I said before, I am still waiting for Hyundai to organize this :(
Also very few motor writers put their goolies on the line when reviewing a current model car. The truth generally comes out well after the new model is released or in the used car reviews, years after production has stopped.
I know that my gear-change is below par and if I can't get the local service guys to acknowledge the problem I don't think I'll have any joy with the critic you quoted, but thanks for your good comments in this thread.
Post by: Dazzler on March 05, 2017, 09:02:58
Post by: nzenigma on March 05, 2017, 09:07:08
And thumbs up to Paul Gover for putting his head up above the sandbags. :goodjob2:
Interesting that he says there were no issues. Given that he has given Hyundai a positive review, which they rely upon, it is reasonable to use this information to kick some Hyundai butt.
I agree with your general view of motor writers. Ive already had a rant about this.
Post by: Surferdude on March 05, 2017, 18:02:25
it changed gears exactly the same as my FD. It also has as much power as my FD. In other words, both gear selection and avaalable power up hills were fine.
In fact I didn't pursue a purchase, simply because it felt similar to what I had so I accepted I would be paying just for a newer car and different look.
However, it was a bloody nice car and I could pick no fault wit it.
Post by: Lakes on March 05, 2017, 21:06:08
Nulon is bloody good Aussie stuff. :goodjob:
They make " start ya Barstard "!!
Post by: nzenigma on March 05, 2017, 22:27:54
Thanks for the suggestion. I might try some Nulon as I'm getting desperate. I won't tell the service guys in case it voids the warranty !
I won't tell the service guys in case They Avoid the warranty Again ! :whistler: :)
Post by: dnalor50 on March 06, 2017, 02:54:16
I've actually been keeping my eye on local stocks but haven't seen a manual SR for ages..
I just realized that my wife and I are the only people in our circle of friends who drive manuals. Given the shrinking market for manual transmissions I imagine Hyundai are putting all their engineering efforts into technologies like DCTs, hydrids, EVs etc. Perhaps they should stop offering manual gearboxes if they are not going to engineer them properly. With the benefit of hindsight I would have brought a DCT model instead of the slow motion snick box I have now.
Post by: Lakes on March 06, 2017, 05:47:01
I've actually been keeping my eye on local stocks but haven't seen a manual SR for ages..
I just realized that my wife and I are the only people in our circle of friends who drive manuals. Given the shrinking market for manual transmissions I imagine Hyundai are putting all their engineering efforts into technologies like DCTs, hydrids, EVs etc. Perhaps they should stop offering manual gearboxes if they are not going to engineer them properly. With the benefit of hindsight I would have brought a DCT model instead of the slow motion snick box I have now.
very true, but a manual trans will normally last longer and is much easier to rebuild , as long as there are parts.
i'll stick to manual as i like shifting gear.
also if i had an SR and enough time on my hands i could pull gear box 7 work out how to improve the sift just takes time.
Post by: Paolo5 on March 06, 2017, 05:52:49
I have a Getz and a diesel i30...both manuals. They both need to have gears changed in a certain way to get the best from them. If a stranger drove them I reckon that they would get the odd graunch or two out of them.
I am certainly not complaining about manual Hy gearboxes...but I have driven manual cars (that were MUCH older) that had MUCH smoother gearboxes than either of my Hyundais.
I agree with you dnalor50, when you said that Hyundai don't seem to be making the best manual gearbox that they could.
Post by: Dazzler on March 06, 2017, 05:59:15
I've actually been keeping my eye on local stocks but haven't seen a manual SR for ages..
I just realized that my wife and I are the only people in our circle of friends who drive manuals. Given the shrinking market for manual transmissions I imagine Hyundai are putting all their engineering efforts into technologies like DCTs, hydrids, EVs etc. Perhaps they should stop offering manual gearboxes if they are not going to engineer them properly. With the benefit of hindsight I would have brought a DCT model instead of the slow motion snick box I have now.
The crazy thing is they can make a great manual box. The MY11 i30 CW my wife had for 4 years had the best (smooth and quick) change I have ever experienced (and I've driven countless manual cars over the last 40 years including some big $ ones)
Her current 2014 tourer Manual Trans is nearly as good. I've driven it to Hobart 3 time in the last 2 years (600kms return) and never once had it baulk or crunch. My life wouldn't have been worth living if I did that to SWMBO car... :sweating: :crazy1:
Edit: Just saw Paolo's comment. Our 2006 Getz box was pretty good, but our 2008 Diesel i30 was a bit notchy into reverse and 1st to 2nd ...
Post by: CraigB on March 06, 2017, 06:19:43
Post by: dnalor50 on March 06, 2017, 08:30:20
There's nothing wrong with my manual box, 1st to 2nd is a little slow but it's still a great box and changes up/down without issues.
CraigB I think it's a contradiction to say a gear-box is great when 1st to 2nd is slow. This is one gear change that needs to be fast as this is near the peak of acceleration when taking off from lights. I overcome the slow change by watching the lights closely and and letting 1st rev out a bit as I know the other cars will draw level (or fly past) when I do the mandated slow and ponderous 1st to 2nd change. Once the car is nearing the speed limit acceleration has leveled off and the slow ponderous gear changes no longer matter so much.
As I've said before the other time when the slow changes are annoying are hilly areas when gear changes need to be fast to avoid losing momentum.
Post by: dnalor50 on March 06, 2017, 08:42:48
if i had an SR and enough time on my hands i could pull gear box 7 work out how to improve the shift just takes time.
If you ever work it out let me know and I'll be at your place kicking the door :D
Post by: nzenigma on March 06, 2017, 08:56:28
Frankly, the first time I drove my FD diesel manual I was hooked. And I was in 1st then 2nd gear!
The car was about equal to an MX5 that also owned.
I sold it to an equally enthusiastic chap who had a Nissan 360Z. We did a test drive over a local mountain, very fast, very exciting and not at all 'notchy!
Post by: CraigB on March 06, 2017, 09:38:23
Well I should be more specific I suppose, it's not slow as such but a little slower to change due to the syncro pattern between 1st and 2nd, all gears are still quick and I have nothing to complain about.There's nothing wrong with my manual box, 1st to 2nd is a little slow but it's still a great box and changes up/down without issues.
CraigB I think it's a contradiction to say a gear-box is great when 1st to 2nd is slow.
If you think yours is a problem then it'd be best to mention it to Hyundai, something to look at is the weighted gear leaver on the bell housing as it comes very close to the water hoses for the throttle body and can come in contact if not adjusted correctly which will interfere with gear changes.
Post by: Dazzler on March 06, 2017, 10:00:08
Post by: Shambles on March 06, 2017, 10:15:25
Quote from: Dazzler
... use the "I'm embarrassed to take passengers in my Hyundai because of the poor transmission/ gutless performance"...
.. and even more embarrassed to discuss this with potential i30 owners on the only website that matters.
Post by: nzenigma on March 06, 2017, 22:30:56
I just realized that my wife and I are the only people in our circle of friends who drive manuals. Given the shrinking market for manual transmissions I imagine Hyundai are putting all their engineering efforts into technologies like DCTs, hydrids, EVs etc. Perhaps they should stop offering manual gearboxes if they are not going to engineer them properly. With the benefit of hindsight I would have brought a DCT model instead of the slow motion snick box I have now.
I feel your pain; BUT you are bit off the mark;
Hyundai has a potentially huge market because the Europeans tend to drive manual cars, NOT autos, also a lot more diesels than we do.. The only time my Euro relatives drive an automatic is when they come to Oz and get a rental.
From your description, the notchy shift and crunching low gear change is a synchromesh problem. In short, to achieve a smooth shift , your 2nd gear needs to be spinning at the same rate as your 1st gear.
In general terms, this is done by employing a pair of cone shaped bronze rings that have enough 'friction' to mate and start spinning together.
If they are worn or if the wrong oil is used, the mating action is slow or non - existent.
The Germans have been designing good gearboxes since Adam was. Hyundai's development is done in Munich.
So the question is, why aren't the Europeans bitching about the issue too.
I found the following which is a bit of a ramble by a Scottsman . He has dodgy 1st -2nd syncro especially when it is cold and snowing. I guess that means most of the year. ;)
But he says he has driven other i30s and they are ok. :link: Gearbox Issues Since January Collection (http://www.consumeractiongroup.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?308885-Gearbox-Issues-Since-January-Collection)
Similarly, an Oz woman: "My first and second in my 2010 i30 2.0L Petrol are a bit grindy.
The gears do synch enough to get in without much trouble, but its a bit like the gearbox is made out of freaking lego in these gears. The rest is pretty smooth except for some vibration in 3rd.
Just to qualify, I've driven two other i30's of the same transmission and engine, both were buttery smooth in comparison." :link: i30 grindy 1st and 2nd gears - Hyundai - Automotive (http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2236014)
Neither of these complaints or the various good-bad comments on this forum would suggest that Hyundai cannot design a good gearbox.
@dnalor50, if I had your car, the first thing I would do is drain the gearbox and refill with a very light weight synthetic oil. And Nulon.
Post by: dnalor50 on March 07, 2017, 00:15:39
I think both @dnalor50 and @Nonamesleft should contact Hyundai Australia and use the "I'm embarrassed to take passengers in my Hyundai because of the poor transmission/ gutless performance". As a representative of Hyundai Australia I would not want to hear that and be keen to rectify the issues. :cool:
Hi Dazzler, thanks for your comment but you are overstating the transmission problem. I frequently take passengers in my Hyundai and they all remark on how smooth and quiet the car is. They don't feel or hear the occasional snicks or grates. Someone who knows cars might say: "hey mate why do you change gears like an old woman". As I said before a Hyundai troubleshooter drove the car, with me as a passenger, and changed gears in the same slow way. His comment was that "the transmission is within specification".
My previous car was a 2006 Focus and in that car I could change gears with total abandon and it was always silky smooth. It was a noisy little car, however, with engine and road noise often drowning out conversation or the radio.
Post by: nzenigma on March 07, 2017, 00:30:47
"the transmission is within specification".
:wacko: Meaningless BS !
The Hyundai 'troubleshooter' needs to answer:
Within what specification?
What is the specified maximum and minimum pause time?
And indicate where this specification is documented.
Post by: Surferdude on March 07, 2017, 00:35:57
Absolutely."the transmission is within specification".
:wacko: Meaningless BS !
The Hyundai 'troubleshooter' needs to answer:
Within what specification?
What is the specified maximum and minimum pause time?
And indicate where this specification is documented.
It's a nothing comment. Keep asking questions.
But that statement should form the basis of any query you send to Hyundai Australia, along with a link to this topic.
Post by: dnalor50 on March 07, 2017, 00:54:12
From your description, the notchy shift and crunching low gear change is a synchromesh problem. In short, to achieve a smooth shift , your 2nd gear needs to be spinning at the same rate as your 1st gear.
In general terms, this is done by employing a pair of cone shaped bronze rings that have enough 'friction' to mate and start spinning together.
If they are worn or if the wrong oil is used, the mating action is slow or non - existent.
Hey nzenigma, let me divide the problem into two parts.
1. Gears changes cannot be done quickly. If I attempt to "flick" the gear-stick there is a wall of resistance before the next gear is engaged. The faster you move the stick the greater the resistance. Slowing down the speed of movement decreases the resistance. It's almost as if rapid movement flexes a cable or something and the gate for the next gear is not made available. By contrast the Focus could be flicked up or down a cog at any time, at high speed, without any hint of resistance. Chalk and cheese.
2. Occasional grates and snicks. Even when changing slowly, with the clutch to the floor, a slight grate or snick can be felt through the gearstick, but not apparent to passengers. It is more common when cold and more common going from 1st to second, but it can happen any time and on any gear. Sometimes I can drive for a whole day without experiencing the problem and some days it happens 4-5 times. Once again the Focus never did this. Whenever it grated it was clearly my fault.
Post by: dnalor50 on March 07, 2017, 01:48:30
The Germans have been designing good gearboxes since Adam was. Hyundai's development is done in Munich.
So the question is, why aren't the Europeans bitching about the issue too.
Clutching at straws here, but is it possible that Korean made cars sold in Oz have different gear change related components to Czech made cars?
Post by: nzenigma on March 07, 2017, 03:35:11
Your description of wall of resistance and grating fits the synchro problem. But so can a clutch that is not disengaging properly. That is why I asked about it earlier.
Really simply , the gear cogs inside the gearbox need to speed up or down so they can mesh smoothly with an output gear. The synchromesh makes this change happen. It acts a bit like a wet clutch with a thin layer of oil between the two synchro plates. Check Wikipedia.
The teeth on cog 1 must fit into the gaps between the teeth on cog 2. Square peg round hole principle.
Like the Scotsman, you have more problems when cold. Cold oil is thick oil.
Post by: dnalor50 on March 07, 2017, 05:56:21
Last question first. Don't know. However, in Australia we really don't have an epidemic of crunching gears.
Your description of wall of resistance and grating fits the synchro problem. But so can a clutch that is not disengaging properly. That is why I asked about it earlier.
I just want to make it clear that there is no audible crunching or grating of gears EVER (maybe, very infrequently, when I stuff up a change :D ). There are occasional snicks and buzzes which can only be felt by the driver via the gear stick. If there was audible crunching I would record it and/or demonstrate it to the service guys.
The wall of resistance I describe is only evident when moving the gear stick fast and because I have a little mechanical sensitivity I move the gear stick slowly so as not to prematurely wear out or break anything.
Post by: nzenigma on March 07, 2017, 07:17:13
You need to take the BS by the horns and confront Hyundai; not me, and your own uncertainty. Good Luck :)
Post by: Dazzler on March 07, 2017, 08:03:56
I think both @dnalor50 and @Nonamesleft should contact Hyundai Australia and use the "I'm embarrassed to take passengers in my Hyundai because of the poor transmission/ gutless performance". As a representative of Hyundai Australia I would not want to hear that and be keen to rectify the issues. :cool:
Hi Dazzler, thanks for your comment but you are overstating the transmission problem. I frequently take passengers in my Hyundai and they all remark on how smooth and quiet the car is. They don't feel or hear the occasional snicks or grates. Someone who knows cars might say: "hey mate why do you change gears like an old woman". As I said before a Hyundai troubleshooter drove the car, with me as a passenger, and changed gears in the same slow way. His comment was that "the transmission is within specification".
My previous car was a 2006 Focus and in that car I could change gears with total abandon and it was always silky smooth. It was a noisy little car, however, with engine and road noise often drowning out conversation or the radio.
Ok, fair call. It's obvious to us what you are experiencing (well explained) Why can't the service people or Hyundai accept that and try and rectify it. "Within specifications" is only one step away from "whatever" :head_knock:
My answer still stands. I've been driving cars since I was 15. I don't need to hear , just feel. So what you describe above is not a clean shift, that I understand. It is not correct.
You need to take the BS by the horns and confront Hyundai; not me, and your own uncertainty. Good Luck :)
..and definitely worth the modest cost of changing the gearbox oil and adding Nulon as Gary suggested earlier...
Post by: mickd on March 07, 2017, 09:24:11
I have an auto, so does the manual have a cable or is it a linkage?
At work we have 6sp man Ford Transit mini buses, when cold you've got to change slowly and give a little extra for the last bit. You can feel a snick or two or 3 when it engages, never makes a noise - but you feel it.
If you change like most of us do, pressure on gear lever then use clutch and are in next gear when pedal hits the floor, you will need to clutch again to go in next gear.
My 4wd is direct (lever on top of box) and it snicks all day, every day for the last 150,000 km, you feel it , can't hear it.
Try to find another one for sale and go for a test drive to compare .
You've got to be vocal but calm with the dealer , ask for proof of standards from them, then approach Hyundai Australia in person with your car and the standards given.
Not an easy task, but only you can stand up for yourself. Keep us posted.
Bec nonamesleft, how are you going, any suprise visits yet?