i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: MICHAEL MCGOVERN on January 20, 2018, 04:56:46
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CAN ANYONE ADVISE IF THE HOT WATER SUPPLY FROM ENGINE CAN BE TURNED OFF FROM HEATER/AIR CON UNIT?
I APPEAR TO BE GETTING WARM AIR FROM FACIA EVEN WHEN HEATER IS AT LOWEST SETTING. ANY COMMENTS WOULD BE APPRECIATED
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CAN ANYONE ADVISE IF THE HOT WATER SUPPLY FROM ENGINE CAN BE TURNED OFF FROM HEATER/AIR CON UNIT?
I APPEAR TO BE GETTING WARM AIR FROM FACIA EVEN WHEN HEATER IS AT LOWEST SETTING. ANY COMMENTS WOULD BE APPRECIATED
Someone got the magic eraser out. No, my understanding these days it's all flap controlled so the heater core is always flowing just directs the air through it when needed.
Is this climate control or the base model manual controls?
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MY MODEL IS THE STANDARD ONE WITH STEEL WHEELS. THE AIRCON & HEATING UNIT ARE COMBINED. IS THIS WHAT YOU MEAN BY CLIMATE CONTROLLED? THE CONTROL IS A ROTARY KNOB TO INCREASE OR DECREASE TEMPERATURE, WITH A BUTTON TO ACTIVATE COMPRESSOR. UNFORTUNATELY, EVEN WHEN HEATER IS SET AT LOWEST POINT I CANNOT INTRODUCE OUTSIDE AIR WITHOUT SOME DEGREE OF HEATING.
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Copy and paste. I thought I was bad with CAPS.
Temperature control actuator is located at the heater unit. It regulates the temperature by the procedure as follows. Signal from control unit adjusts position of temperature door by operating temperature switch and then temperature will be regulated by the hot/cold air ratio decided by position of temperature door.
Tough one to get images
(https://images.ilcats.ru/getImage.php?catalog=hyundai&filename=KAUSPJD0/9797111.png&filename=KAUSPJD0/9797111.png&hash=6df1c89c5132872a31f69b4a7437518a)
far left item 97236E is the door actuator basically a flap . That'as where IO'd be looking whether the door is jammed, this actuator has failed or it's not receiving the commands from the temp control unit
(https://ssli.ebayimg.com/images/g/CKkAAOSwridaMneq/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/KFcAAOSwJLJZgw4T/s-l300.jpg)
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Something else I learnt too in digging for you. The Diesels also have an electric element as well.
Known as a PTC Heater.
PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) heater is an electric heater using a PTC element as an auxiliary heating device that supplements deficiency of interior heat source in highly effective diesel engine (U engine).
An electric heater heats up the interior by directly heating the air that passes through the heater.
PTC = positive Temperature Coefficient
The name itself implies that the element has a proportional resistance change sensitive to temperature. PTC heater is installed at the exit or the backside of heater core.
ECM outputs a PTC on signal. Operate PTC from 1st setting to 3rd setting with an interval of 15 seconds.
Heat up the air, which passes through a heater core.
I believe it activates if ambient temperature is below 5°C, coolant temperature is below 70°C, and battery voltage is above 11V and engine RPM is above 700RPM.
(https://static.baza.farpost.ru/v/1506449925819_bulletin)(http://img.euroauto.ru/photo/parts/used/5/20/95/30209574/3.jpg)
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Yes, that was discussed when I did some research helping out a member of the Spanish forum. I can't recall now whether it was to blame in that case but it was important to eliminate in the fault finding. :goodjob:
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Yes, that was discussed when I did some research helping out a member of the Spanish forum. I can't recall now whether it was to blame in that case but it was important to eliminate in the fault finding. :goodjob:
My Spanish is too poor to be part of that inquisition. gracias ( I had to google that!) :rofl:
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Thanks for message. This is getting more and more complicated. Could I simply insert a water stop valve in the supply from motor? I could turn the valve OFF in summer and On in winter
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Thanks again. In Western Australia I do not think I will ever need electric supplementary heating. I must be getting old. I can remember when a control cut the heat source (water) and a push button turned on A/C
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Thanks for message. This is getting more and more complicated. Could I simply insert a water stop valve in the supply from motor? I could turn the valve OFF in summer and On in winter
Well you could potentially get a bit of hose and connect either end to the ports off the engine like a bypass so it keeps circulatiing. I have had an engine that without that flow it overheats( flat 4 subaru)
Not that complicated really. Just have to determine if it's the slave or control side or just randomly replace the servo and or control module. Heaps of wrecks around
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Thanks again. In Western Australia I do not think I will ever need electric supplementary heating. I must be getting old. I can remember when a control cut the heat source (water) and a push button turned on A/C
So can I but things have moved on. In fact it was often a point of seizure those cable drawn controls.
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I remember my HQ with its cable sliders. :-[
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I remember my HQ with its cable sliders. :-[
I remember My HQ with the mural, Speco floor shifter
(http://www.revheads.com.au/images/Parts/transmission/60-4100.jpg)
and a 3 speed box (https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/z/rZcAAOSwc1FZ20gf/$_75.PNG)
attached to a 253.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn14/HQSS1972/Group%20Members%20Cars/Daves%20Infra%20Red%20SS/IMG_0013.jpg)
What a
(https://fthmb.tqn.com/n8qOGrO_r9F2aACmz4Nb7rESQ1I=/3836x2557/filters:fill(auto,1)/GettyImages-90539573-58e3eea25f9b58ef7e12535b.jpg)
of a car
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Mine was a Baby Shit Brown HQ Kingswood wagon with Traumatic 3-speed column shift hooked up to a 202. Fun and useful as my first car. The only mods I ever did was to fit a Rough Country radio cassette and speakers and to toss the Lucas alternator for a Bosch. :D