i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: Pip on November 20, 2009, 04:45:20
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One year service was done today @ 14,984Km in 1 year and 20 days.
The Castrol Edge 5w30 was taken out today. It had done 8,300Km. None had been consumed during its life and AFAIK was working ok but I was starting to think the engine sounded just a tad more "rattly" recently so took note of how it sounded as it started and while I drove to the dealer. The new oil has quietened the engine a lot. It's not the same oil so hard to draw any conclusions. The new oil is imported Castrol 0w30 made in Germany and known as "German Castrol" or just GC. Costs about the same as Mobil 1 0w40 at $14 quart. If interested check: performancelub.com
Also mentioned the rack-rattle and click-clack that can be heard when rocking the steering wheel. Jury's out on that. The service manager says he will try to get approval from Hy to replace the rack because from his observation that's where the problem is. He could feel the knock (as the steering wheel was rocked) while grasping both steering arms when up on the hoist which suggested to him the looseness is closer to the rack than the steering wheel which was subject to a TSB that identified an out of tolerance "collar or gear" at the top of the steering column, from memory since we don't have them to view any more.
HALO turned off... don't think I'll miss that.
Forgot to ask him not to alter my tyre pressures and the docket says they did. I'll check them today when I get fuel. I just set them a few days ago so I'll know if they did change them. Guessing not! 38 front, 34 rear, incidently.
Total: $188 + the oil I supplied @ $84 = $272
Car is going like a dream... really happy with its first year. :D
And a quick PS: Service manager at first questioned my choice of oil as it was not C3 that they would have used. He immediately accepted it when I started to quote oil specs to him. I must have sounded convincing. :lol: Diesel in Oz needs B4 only but of course will not be harmed by use of C3, in case some were wondering.
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Thanks Pip, very interesting :cool:
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Thanks for all that Pip - a good read :)
... the looseness is closer to the rack than the steering wheel which was subject to a TSB that identified an out of tolerance "collar or gear" at the top of the steering column, from memory since we don't have them to view any more.
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The TSB was 04908 and the affected models are "First production to 14 April, 2008" with affected VIN range from "First production to KMHDC51ER8U098836"
Electric Power Steering (EPS) Worm Shaft
Flexible Coupling Replacement (F/Fix)
HTH
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Thanks for all that Pip - a good read :)
... the looseness is closer to the rack than the steering wheel which was subject to a TSB that identified an out of tolerance "collar or gear" at the top of the steering column, from memory since we don't have them to view any more.
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The TSB was 04908 and the affected models are "First production to 14 April, 2008" with affected VIN range from "First production to KMHDC51ER8U098836"
Electric Power Steering (EPS) Worm Shaft
Flexible Coupling Replacement (F/Fix)
HTH
Thanks for that Shambles. I remember now I checked the VIN number against that before the info was taken down and mine is later. So less likely to be that, except the click-clack noise appears to me to come from right near the steering wheel. I'm leaving the diagnosis up the the service guy though. His problem, not mine and he seemed eager to do something about it.
I also checked the tyre pressures that were "adjusted" during the service. My gauge and the one at the service station I use to pump the tyres say they set them at... wait for it... 24/18 psi. Even the label on the car says to use 32 all round.
I don't understand this. I pumped them up again to my own preference, 38/34 psi.
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I took mine in for it's 2nd service the other week and told them about the steeing play/rattle problem (and took the TSB in, thanks Shambles) they said the rack needed replacing. Took it in yesterday for the work to be carried out, picked it up and they said they did not change the rack but found a bush worn on one of the rack fixing bolts, they have also agreed to change the steering column as there is a slight knocking. But I have to say that this bush as transformed the car from a rattly buzzy car to as it was when new and the play in the steering has gone.
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Now this thread has been woken again I realise I should have followed up on this before. No further work has been done to fix the rack rattle nor the click-clack. Reason being that the service manager has not contacted me since even though I saw him again a while back when I gave him my wife's Getz. He again said he would get back to me but hasn't. Pretty slack I'd say and I must chase him again. For the moment I'm without it anyway while I get hail damage fixed.
OT, since I'm driving the Getz more I'm surprised at what a fun drive it is. Not luxury :rolleyes: but fun. It's interesting to note that the i30 needs to have the low gears swapped often (because of the 1000 rpm minimum) but once up to 4th or 5th then it will take on all terain. The Getz on the other hand is very flexible in the low gears but needs 3,4 and 5 swapped a lot to keep momentum up, particularly in the hills. It's been a while since I saw 5k and 6k rpm and heard what that sounds like... not much real progress compared to the effortless i30 diesel but still fun. 8) :wink:
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go to where i go pip,they are helpful,totally,apart from the crap oil. :wink:
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go to where i go pip,they are helpful,totally,apart from the crap oil. :wink:
Ha, I gotcha. :lol:
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OT, since I'm driving the Getz more I'm surprised at what a fun drive it is. Not luxury :rolleyes: but fun. It's interesting to note that the i30 needs to have the low gears swapped often (because of the 1000 rpm minimum) but once up to 4th or 5th then it will take on all terain. The Getz on the other hand is very flexible in the low gears but needs 3,4 and 5 swapped a lot to keep momentum up, particularly in the hills. It's been a while since I saw 5k and 6k rpm and heard what that sounds like... not much real progress compared to the effortless i30 diesel but still fun. 8) :wink:
hear, hear! now stick some big fat wheels on it and you'll have a real larf. There's nothing particularly spectacular about them but driving mine always putz a smile on my face. :mrgreen:
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Any word back from your service guy pip?
I have an I30 diesel wagon which has covered 13,200 kms in ten months.
When manoeuvring out of my garage in the morning I have noticed a clunking noise coming from the steering column/rack and suspect it is the same issue as yours.
My local dealer (Keema Brisbane) were shocking when I took the car in complaining of a foul smell from the aircon - they replaced the pollen filter which made no difference - so I don't hold out any great hope of them repairing the issue unless I am armed with knowledge.
Also should I be taking my own oil for the 15000km service? Is there a problem with the oil Hyundai dealers supply
Thanks
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Also should I be taking my own oil for the 15000km service? Is there a problem with the oil Hyundai dealers supply
Thanks
Hi FLYPEJOCK .. I think most who take their own oil do it as a cost saving measure (some dealers charge A$90 to A$100 for oil that you can supply yourself for say A$40 if you shop around... :rolleyes:) although on the other hand a couple of members have had their dealers put lower spec oil in than what is specified :eek:
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...their dealers put lower spec oil in than what is specified :eek:
And even the wrong oil on one occasion :rolleyes:
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Any word back from your service guy pip?
I have an I30 diesel wagon which has covered 13,200 kms in ten months.
When manoeuvring out of my garage in the morning I have noticed a clunking noise coming from the steering column/rack and suspect it is the same issue as yours.
My local dealer (Keema Brisbane) were shocking when I took the car in complaining of a foul smell from the aircon - they replaced the pollen filter which made no difference - so I don't hold out any great hope of them repairing the issue unless I am armed with knowledge.
Also should I be taking my own oil for the 15000km service? Is there a problem with the oil Hyundai dealers supply
Thanks
I don't have my car at the moment so no I haven't any more yet.
WRT oil: you can take whatever they give you and that will vary from dealer to dealer and time to time I suspect. Whether that oil is what you want is hard to tell because unless you ask specifics you simply won't know. And in that vein, unless you also know what you want (or don't want) then you probably don't care... and that understandably and not unreasonably is the position most owners hold.
Those here, including you, probably do care because we are not representaive of "most owners" simply by being members of an owners club!
So to anwser the question more directly on whether you should take your own, yes is my recommendation if for no other reason than at least that way you know what it is.
If you want to use the best oil in the belief that your engine will last longer, then buy that. If you just want to save money then buy the cheapest that satisfies the documented requirements. Else do something in between, although I think if you are not motivated by either of the first two options you might just as well accept the dealer's oil.
OTOH the dealer's oil will probably cost you about the same as any top-shelf oil you can buy yourself so from my point-of-view you might as well get your own good stuff if you are prepared to pay that price. :wink:
If you decide to choose you own oil I also recommend you verify with the service manager that it is suitable and accepted before you buy it.
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Any word back from your service guy pip?
You prompted me to chase him and as I got my car back I did. :D
I went to see him and we had a similar conversation to the two previous except this time he decided to put in a warranty request to Hy to replace the rack. I'm now waiting once more for his next move although this time I do expect he will follow through.
Although the "click-clack" seems to eminate from the steering column inside the car he still does not think its related to the TSB describing play in a "collar" just below the steering wheel if only because this known fault does not affect my VIN range.
So we'll see.
I might add that when going over cobbles or corrugations, it certainly does sound like rack-rattle which was my own diagnosis when I first heard it. It is surprisingly loud and quite alarming.
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Pip,
thanks for the update.
I decided to take my car to the local dealer (Keema Mount Gravatt, Brisbane) as there something was obviously wrong with the steering.
The car has come back with no issues. My wife, who dropped the car off and picked it up, was told by the service manager that they had tightened up the steering yoke. I am not entirely sure what this means but it has done the trick!
My car is a July 09 built i30sx cw crdi.
Cheers
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it connects the steering rack to the steering column!
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Just had a call from service manager... he has a new rack to put in. Let's see... nine months since I reported the problem.
In next week.
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Ok, went in today.
Just had a call from the (new) service manager to say it's been done but unfortunately it didn't fix the click-clack that I suspected all along, but was unable to convince them, was the collar that is identified in the TSB and has been spoken of here before. :rolleyes: I'm guessing that's what they will replace next time.
That's not the end of it though. He told me that the ESP light is now on and the error code indicates the steering angle sensor is faulty. :eek: That it was all ok before they got it seems to fall on deaf ears as he reckons he saw the ESP light on when he drove it in to the workshop. That's either true or BS, you take your pick but I know which. It's perfectly fine when I drop it off and then it's not 10 minutes later. I don't believe in coincidences. Nor do I enjoy being taken for a fool!
Even worse is now they don't want to continue with it and I have to take it to their "other" workshop which is bloody miles away.
I'm not surprised though, said to my wife after we took it in that it would most probably come back unfixed. She said something uncomplimentary about my negativity.
Sometimes you just know...
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i feel for you man... unless i do something myself, then its never done right... i must look like a sucker
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so you've got to take it to dandenong to be repaired? they wont jerk you around there.! :wink:
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Not good Pip :mad: :mad: I hate that sort of crap..
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Thanks guys for the sympathy and yes 2i30s, you are correct. I remember you use them, hope your faith is warranted.
When I picked up the car (after hours, so parked in street) I noticed immediately as I grabbed the wheel to take the weight off the locking pin that it spun in my hands as I applied the normal amount of force to turn a "dead" wheel... Hello? seemed to be powered already. Turned the key and started the car and along with the ESP light I was warned about, I saw EPS as well.
While the power steering logic might also need input from the steering position sensor it does not explain to me why it appears to be powered all the time - even with ignition turned off and key out!
I guess it won't take any (or very little) power when the servo is quiesced and I won't have a flat battery tomorrow but I do wonder what has been left unplugged or damaged.
Now I wonder whether the wheel alignment (I presume just toe) was done properly. Tyre wear was perfect up till now. :eek:
From where I am now, the click-clack seemed most acceptable. :rolleyes:
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Power to the wheel with the ignition off is a real worry.. I sure hope it doesn't drain your battery.. :cool:
I would be reporting their incompetance to Hyundai Australia (if you haven't already)
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Quick update on power steering (EPS) and stability control (ESP) error indicators lit. I checked it this morning just to see if the battery was still ok and guess what? Yep, all normal again and steering was hard as a rock until engine started... totally normal and no indicators. ESP toggles on and off with the switch (it didn't last night).
I just booked it in for a look-see at the dealer tomorrow. At least I have a screen-print of the diagnostic from the first guy to take along. Shows error: C1260 - Steering Angle Sensor. Self healing? Doubt it.
Waiting...
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Went to the dealer's other workshop and waited for 2.5 hours while they had the car. Short story, they adjusted the steering angle sensor and all is back to normal with no errors.
When I asked about the click-clack they said they didn't notice it even though I repeated the whole story initially and pointed out that this is where we came in. :rolleyes:
So they took it back and had another look but confess to having no idea except a certainty that it's not the collar/spacer I kept suggesting (I guess I'll drop that idea :-[) because of a certainty that it's outside the car.
On the way back I dropped into the first dealer to see if he could take the car back to the guy he outsourced the wheel alignment to and have the wheel centralised. He did and they did and now I'm right back where I started. :lol:
To continue the chase for the click-clack they suggested I book it in and expect 2 days to find it... $30 please for a loan car!
I'll sit on it for the time being...
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Wow, you arent having much luck are you Pip!
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so you've got to take it to dandenong to be repaired? they wont jerk you around there.! :wink:
:-[ :mad:
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Hey Pip... I get the impression you are a bit of a tough cookie (don't put up with crap)
If they are mucking you around, some of our more "meek and mild" members would have no show :rolleyes: :mad:
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Hey Pip... I get the impression you are a bit of a tough cookie (don't put up with crap)
If they are mucking you around, some of our more "meek and mild" members would have no show :rolleyes: :mad:
Interesting you should think that. I might have sold that persona here but in fact I'm a real softy and get trodden on all the time... "is that right dear?... ok I thought so". :neutral:
I have to say I'm still a little disappointed but having worked in the technical service industry for a lifetime I do understand these things are often just the way it is.
I suspect it will come down to systematic replacements until the problem is fixed. I just need to accept that!
And Dandenong have been quite reasonable, particularly booking me in almost immediately even if it was a continuation of their own repair.
I'm not sure that the new rack hasn't a different feel though. Maybe it's just new or maybe it did solve something. I'm interested in tackling a rough corugated road which was diabolical before.
As has been mentioned before here, when stopped at the lights for instance and "twiddling" the wheel you can feel the servo adding power and letting go again such that the wheel alternately feels free and stiff as the servo kicks in/out. Anyone else feel that? Anyway that sensation seems to be significantly reduced now which makes no sense because that would be an electronic or firmware control and I was assured no updates of this kind were performed. I guess I stopped "playing" with it a while back (careful... :rolleyes:) and the recent change has just got me fiddling again and I forget how it was.
I'm going to sit on it (careful again... :rolleyes:) and just keep mentioning it at the annual services in case something comes to light in the interim.
Thanks for listening. :D
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Just a question which has bothered me while following this thread:
When you turn a corner or move from the straight ahead does the steering return return to the centre/straight ahead with hardly any intervention from yourself?
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Interesting you should think that. I might have sold that persona here but in fact I'm a real softy and get trodden on all the time... "is that right dear?... ok I thought so". :neutral:
You sure had me fooled ...I'm not scared of you any more :lol:
I used to be a real softy once but not these days I can arc up a bit if the need arises..
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Just a question which has bothered me while following this thread:
When you turn a corner or move from the straight ahead does the steering return return to the centre/straight ahead with hardly any intervention from yourself?
I would say self-centreing was normal. What prompts the question?
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I used to be a real softy once...
Nothing I've read in this forum indicates past tense is applicable in this sentence. Who are you trying to fool? :wink: :rolleyes: :lol:
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I would say self-centreing was normal. What prompts the question?
If the rack was at fault then I was wondering whether the camber/toe in/toeout/geometry etc would be affected.
If so, then when the new rack/bits and bobs are fitted then all steering angles etc would have to be reset.
No one has mentioned this as yet.
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I would say self-centreing was normal. What prompts the question?
If the rack was at fault then I was wondering whether the camber/toe in/toeout/geometry etc would be affected.
If so, then when the new rack/bits and bobs are fitted then all steering angles etc would have to be reset.
No one has mentioned this as yet.
I'm fairly certain that the rack replacement would not require any other than toe to be redone. The caster and camber should not have altered unless the strut was moved. Caster will be the one to have an effect of centreing.
In any case a "wheel alignment" was done but what that means in this context I dunno.
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Pip, my steering 'click-clack' noise as you call it was fixed at my 60k service last week. The service guy reckons the rack bolts needed tightening. Its 100% fixed now and it feels so much more stable on the road and doesnt wander around. I must have grown used to the slight wandering but now its fixed I definitely can feel the difference. Mine is Aug 08 build del Oct 08 - i think it was the first batch with cruise and ESP standard.
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I hear some strange noises (rattles) IN my steering wheel. Especially when I'm driving slowly over crappy roads. It's like there are some plastic chips inside the wheel jumping around :) Is that what you've been hearing? But I know it's not the "chips" or stuff like that, because I can also hear it if my car is parked and I turn my wheel left/right quickly.
Pff I have to take my car to the service too to get it checked.
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Pip, my steering 'click-clack' noise as you call it was fixed at my 60k service last week. The service guy reckons the rack bolts needed tightening. Its 100% fixed now and it feels so much more stable on the road and doesnt wander around. I must have grown used to the slight wandering but now its fixed I definitely can feel the difference. Mine is Aug 08 build del Oct 08 - i think it was the first batch with cruise and ESP standard.
Yours and mine sounds like they came from same batch then and symptom wise it also sounds similar. If they replaced my rack then I gotta assume the bolts are tight. I dunno how it mounts but perhaps the bolts bottom out or something like that and under sufficient pressure it can move ever so slightly.
I don't think I have any wander, seems to drive fine. As I said though, unless it's a placebo effect, it does feel different in the very little I've driven it since (just home from service centre, it's been parked since).
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I hear some strange noises (rattles) IN my steering wheel. Especially when I'm driving slowly over crappy roads. It's like there are some plastic chips inside the wheel jumping around :) Is that what you've been hearing? But I know it's not the "chips" or stuff like that, because I can also hear it if my car is parked and I turn my wheel left/right quickly.
Pff I have to take my car to the service too to get it checked.
Again, your description sounds similar to what I have. It definitely sounds like there is a "wink" of play between the steering wheel and the wheels. Whether there is or not I dunno. It also (unless there are/were two different problems and one is now fixed) rattled most alarmingly on cobbled or corrugated roads. If I find the right road I'll be able to tell if that has changed with the new rack.
If you get a diagnosis be sure to tell.
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The EPS light will come on until the steering has been turned all the way both ways* and then the ignition turned off and back on.
*actually the specs says "more than half way" IIRC.
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The symptoms described here (pip and accim) sound like its the same problem. I first noticed my symptoms around 35k if i can remember correctly. 45k service they replaced a steering shaft and universal joint (probably the same part that was causing issues in the Kia soul in the US - near the pedal box) to no avail. It steadily worsened until it was fixed last week, at the end it was pretty bad especially as my driveway is quite rough.
Apparently the Kia Soul issue - the steering shaft parted at the universal joint, the shaft then fell down and jammed the brake pedal! No brakes - no steering - hang on for the ride! This was a US vehicle so it may have been made there and would have been LHD.
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Here is a link to an article about that Kia Soul Issue... :eek:
http://carscoop.blogspot.com/2010/08/nhtsa-probes-2010-kia-soul-after.html
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Crikey, that ride would be most unpleasant. Glad our little car has not seen that.
Trying to identify the problem we have seen, I think there is an articulated section, maybe a foot, at the bottom of the column with a UJ at each end to "bend" the column down to the rack pinion. There will need to be mounting points along the way to hold it all still. Somewhere there appears to be something that can move. LD's guy says "loose rack bolts". That might not necessarily mean the actual rack bolts as there will be several fixing points. However he has fixed it and that's the info we need to know.
Any chance LD you can get something more specific from him? Or are you sure he meant the actual rack mounting bolts?
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Yesterday, I listened to it a bit more carefully. You can hear it, when you steer to the left and drive.. Doesn't matter how much you turn the wheel, it's enough to go to "9 o'clock" or even less (if you understand) and over a smaller bump/hole and you'll hear it. I also have a feeling that sometimes you can feel it in the steering wheel as well. Like small vibrations or smth. Regarding the fact that a lot of the roads in my area, are really bad, you can easily hear the rattle, I just got used to it and thought it's normal because of the rough roads over here. I'll definitely try to take my car to the service next week to have it fixed.
I have approx 70,000 km at the moment and it started rattling quite soon. Pfff..probably at around 30,000 km? Silly me..
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Hey accim.. You are a good member.. I like the way you put things.. :wink:
Hope I can meet you some day.. :D
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Crikey, that ride would be most unpleasant. Glad our little car has not seen that.
Trying to identify the problem we have seen, I think there is an articulated section, maybe a foot, at the bottom of the column with a UJ at each end to "bend" the column down to the rack pinion. There will need to be mounting points along the way to hold it all still. Somewhere there appears to be something that can move. LD's guy says "loose rack bolts". That might not necessarily mean the actual rack bolts as there will be several fixing points. However he has fixed it and that's the info we need to know.
Any chance LD you can get something more specific from him? Or are you sure he meant the actual rack mounting bolts?
I'm sure he meant the rack mounting bolts. When the 'half shaft' or whatever its called was replaced it did virtually nothing to the symptoms - so I'm guessing the next component attached to the frame of the car would be the rack? As they didnt actually replace anything its either the rack mounting bush bolts or maybe the pinch bolt that holds the spline onto the rack input shaft? I dont really know for sure. When I get some time I'll get underneath and take a look at the rack as I'm sure if there was play in the rack there would be some evidence of movement on the paint or the housing whatever at the rack bushes where they would have been rubbing.
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Hey accim.. You are a good member.. I like the way you put things.. :wink:
Hope I can meet you some day.. :D
Hehe, I just try to explain as much as I can, but sometimes I make it look even more complicated :mrgreen: Huh, I'm like a woman now :eek:
:lol:
Yeah, I plan (ok, I hope) to go around the globe one day..maybe one day, I'll come and check that hybrid-powered thing of yours :)
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Huh, I'm like a woman now :eek:
:lol:
Now you've got me worried.. :eek:
Yeah, I plan (ok, I hope) to go around the globe one day..maybe one day, I'll come and check that hybrid-powered thing of yours :)
That would be great... :mrgreen:
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I was at the service today, told them about it, but it didn't seem that much of a problem to them, as I'm not the only i30 owner, with that "problem". We agreed to have it checked out at next service (80,000 km), because I didn't have much time today..
Anyawys.. Forgot to tell that I began hearing some strange noises few weeks ago (nothing wrong with me :D ). The car usually started making the sound when driving on highway, going around 100-140 km/h. The sound was coming from the wheels, at first I even thought I had a flat tire, but it was way too loud for that. You could usually hear it for a minute or two, than it just stopped. I thought it was the bearings, so I called them yesterday and drove the car to the service this morning. After checking it out, they said it was probably the brakes, that needed to be cleaned. They say it's done at every service otherwise (20,000 km), but they got messy again (half way to my next service 72k km). Probably because of the bad weather conditions we've had for few weeks and the chips/mud on the road. The problem was, that they just didn't completely "let go" after putting my foot off the brake so the brake pads were rubbing the discs and making the strange noise.. Drove home normally, without any strange noises, so I hope that was it :)