i30 Owners Club

Recent Posts

1
Hi all,

Got a 2023 PD Hatch. Every now and then the LHR seat belt warning goes off while driving, and there is no one in the seat. Has anyone else had this issue? :)
2
Great post @Gazza-75

Hmmmm seems a very widespread issue across a bunch of Hyundai & Kia models.  I wonder why there hasn't been a recall on it?   As ABS modules should not be shitting themselves in that manner - I cannot even recall the last time ours was activated.

Checked the fuses, all appear ok from basic inspection (removed and looked over).  ABS module is right at the back right hand corner on mine, near impossible to inspect & I'm not sure I like the idea of whacking it.

Have yet another week of rain ahead of us and so have booked into the local Hyundai dealership as just can't run the risk of keeping on the daily transit with no ABS, ESC, AEB etc.....supplied them with Gazza's info so we will see.

Thanks again for a great post.
3
Latest update from me -

Got to my mechanic who scanned the car with his 'proper' OBD scanner equipment. This has detected an ABS fault (C240201 as per attached picture). He attempted to clear the error but it immediately came back. He suggested that it could be that the ABS motor could be stuck and giving the motor housing a hard tap might free it up.

Other suggestions from my own investigations yesterday say it could be the following:
"The code means there is a problem with the circuit for the ABS pump motor. Before you start swapping parts have you checked the ABS fuses? There will be two, one for the pump and one for the solenoid block. They are usually the large square type fuses located on the engine bay fusebox. You should also check the main power supplies and grounds at the ABS module connector. There are usually 4 terminals on module connector that are larger than all the others. Two of them are the power supplies that come from the two ABS fuses, and the other two are the pump and solenoid block earths. If one of the power supplies or earths is bad that could cause the trouble code."
I checked my fuses but they were fine. Have not had a chance to test the power supplies and grounds as yet.

It also seems that this is a fairly common issue on a number of Hyundai vehicles such as the Tucson and now the Kona EV (recall has been done on this vehicle).

I'm relieved it is (probably) not the radar but then again, the ABS motor is just as expensive. I see the unit can be rebuilt but not sure about the option where I live.


The battle continues....

4
I had this exact condition on my 2012, 18.L GD series.  I never did anything about. 
I kept the car until 2023 when I sold it with 135,000kms. 
Nothing ever went wrong with the engine in all those years and just kept to the normal annual servicing/15,000km intervals - zero oil consumption.
5
Hi, one thing I can think of is the timing chain and tensioner. If this model is chain timing, the tensioner is oil assisted. I had an i20 where the tensioner  had a weak spring, it was only after the oil pressure built up pressure that the timing chain stopped rattling. When I swapped out the tensioner ( and chain, as there was a stronger revision) the old tensioner could be easily compressed ( without the oil pressure). Can you see the timing chain from the oil filler? and if so can it be wiggled to see any slop?
6
By "refuse to start" does it turn over, click or do anything?
Can you answer that question please.
"refuse to start", can mean many things, either electrical or fuel related, depending on the symptoms.

Can you better explain your starting issues e.g. :
Does it crank over at all?
Does it crank but not start at all?
Does it crank for long time then eventually start?
7
Hey folks,

The family Sedan has had this tapping noise for quite some years and I thought I'd finally get to the bottom of it!

Both Hyundai and another local garage reckon that it needs an engine re-build! Which I think is a bit extreme.

I can only describe the noise as a light high pitched tapping which starts immediately on start up and then gets less and less as the engine warms up. It's like the sound of tappets on an old push rod engine (which are easy to adjust), it doesn't sound like a deep bottom engine knocking or clunking, more top end.

Has anyone experienced something similar and was it an easy fix, do these engines commonly sound tappy? The problem hasn't got any worse over the years it's just annoying and de-values the vehicle obviously.

Look forward to spending some time around the forum.

Ta, Rich
8
Hi, If I am reading your posts correctly, the car was fine until after you started the car, moved it a small distance, then shut it off? If the car hasn't started well after this time it could be suffering from slightly restricted fuel injectors. I have had a couple of instances on different cars where a short trip ( without getting to temp) i.e moving to wash on the lawn, then  putting the car away to sit for a while,  has caused a long crank when returning to the car. I'm guessing in my case the quality of fuel could have been gumming up the injectors, as the cold injectors have fuel that doesn't evaporate off as fast. Just a theory.  And it usually clears up after a decent drive. A decent OBD2 scanner should be able to look for a crank/ cam sensor fault which is a know issue which causes long crank issues. Good luck,  and let us all know your outcomes.
9
Hi folks

Just got my 2017 i103 petrol auto....only have one issue, dumb as it sounds i cant work out how to adjust the screen washer jets so they hit higher up the screen rather than at the bottom by the blades. Pressure seems fine.
In the past with cars ive  just inserted a pin and it was easy, this seems to have .75cm wide horizontal jets but i cant see how to adjust them, im scared to put a a screwdriver etc in there in case i break them.
Cant see anything in the user manual.
Anybody able to advise please ?
thanks in advance.
10
Hello Greyhound! Thank you for reaching out. The battery health status shows over 60%, suggesting it's in relatively good condition. However, despite this, the car is still experiencing starting issues. While it's possible it could be fuel pump-related, I'm exploring other troubleshooting methods before reaching that conclusion. Appreciate your assistance!

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