i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => GENERAL => Topic started by: Olympicon on October 11, 2018, 18:22:22
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So I need to replace the lower ball joint on my front drivers side. I’ve looked to buy one but there appears to be two types, one which is just the ball joint on its own and the other where it’s got two mounting holes either side. I take it the later is easier to change but they look like two totally separate mounting systems?
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One type, like the one on my old car, has a threaded body which just screws into the hub carrier. It's a nightmare to get off, needs a 50mm socket and an impact wrench. A local garage did mine. There was nothing wrong with the ball joint itself, it was just the rubber boot that had split. On a genuine Hyundai part, it seems impossible to change the boot alone. I used one from ECP where the boot is removable, so if it splits again, I can replace the boot without having to unscrew the ball joint. Take a look at the ball joint on your car, it's should be pretty obvious which type is fitted.
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Looking at the workshop manual it just describes the replacement which comes with the ball joint already in that bracket so you just undo the split pin nut then the two bolts holding it up to the hub and it comes off?
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Even after taking off the castellated nut, you have to press the ball joint out of the lower suspension arm. There is very little space around the ball joint to get the jaws of the splitter in, it helps to put a jack under the lower arm and push it up to try and get it more level. This then opens up more of a gap so the splitter can be pushed into position. One tip is that before taking the wheel off, reach up inside the wheel arch and wrap several turns of 6mm rope around the top and bottom coils of the spring. This stops the spring extending as the car is jacked up, and holds the suspension at a better angle for working on.
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Looking at the workshop manual it just describes the replacement which comes with the ball joint already in that bracket so you just undo the split pin nut then the two bolts holding it up to the hub and it comes off?
Ball joint separator could be useful. It should be obvious which type you have when you look at it
(https://image.ibb.co/cWGNGL/ball-joint-remover.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/5jcAAOSw9V5bBfdb/s-l300.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ZMMAAOSwEzxYSmGZ/s-l500.jpg)
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Cheers guys. The top one looks like a nightmare to get off! Weird how the manual only describes the bottom type though, think I’ve still got a splitter somewhere too. Garage wanted £77+ the part to do it! They did say that was worst case scenario though and it might not take so long
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The bolted version is straight forward with the joint separator.
Avoid really cheap parts (FEBEST) off ebay . I did mine and 12 months later the boots were destroyed.
I ended up ordering genuine from korea quite cheap, $100 pair delivered.
The oem do not come with new nut or split pin, they're separate items
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So I need to replace the lower ball joint on my front drivers side. I’ve looked to buy one but there appears to be two types, one which is just the ball joint on its own and the other where it’s got two mounting holes either side. I take it the later is easier to change but they look like two totally separate mounting systems?
To get a ball joint out, loosen the castellated nut, take your heavy hammer, then one hit beside the hole in the control arm. Ball joint will become loose.
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So I need to replace the lower ball joint on my front drivers side. I’ve looked to buy one but there appears to be two types, one which is just the ball joint on its own and the other where it’s got two mounting holes either side. I take it the later is easier to change but they look like two totally separate mounting systems?
To get a ball joint out, loosen the castellated nut, take your heavy hammer, then one hit beside the hole in the control arm. Ball joint will become loose.
yes, sometimes though they're like Kiwis, bloody stubborn :mrgreen: I had great difficulty with one of mine, refused to release with that method.
Now that i have the breaker I just use that. avoids mis-shits going through the boot if you need to re-use.
:goodjob2:
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:rolleyes:
Gerard, put your purse down and hit it like a man (KIWI MAN) :mrgreen:
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Now that i have the breaker I just use that. avoids mis-shits going through the boot if you need to re-use.
:goodjob2:
Don't you just hate those! Messy! :crazy1: :snigger:
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:rolleyes:
Gerard, put your purse down and hit it like a man (KIWI MAN) :mrgreen:
Bloody Kiwis :spitty:
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Now that i have the breaker I just use that. avoids mis-shits going through the boot if you need to re-use.
:goodjob2:
Don't you just hate those! Messy! :crazy1: :snigger:
:rofl:
The consequence of missing target and hitting boot.
The pain is worse when you tend to be a boot-in-the-mouth OZZIE
:snigger:
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Well thankfully I appear to have the two bolt version. Got a Lemforder unit on the way with a new nut and split pin, anyone got a part number for the two bolts as well? Look like they’ve seen better days may as well replace those too!
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Well thankfully I appear to have the two bolt version. Got a Lemforder unit on the way with a new nut and split pin, anyone got a part number for the two bolts as well? Look like they’ve seen better days may as well replace those too!
1123612357K
(https://hyundai.7zap.com/ImgsWatermark/Imgs/Cats/HEURPJDH/5051111.png)
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Cheers! Just rung my local dealer they want £5.50 EACH for the bolts :exclaim: so maybe I’ll just hope the two originals are salvageable
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Cheers! Just rung my local dealer they want £5.50 EACH for the bolts :exclaim: so maybe I’ll just hope the two originals are salvageable
LOL, what did you expect. If they are stuffed though they are important and having them in good shape and torqued may ave your life :winker:
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I’ve found them online for less than $1 so I was hoping not to be completely bent over :undecided: unfortunately shipping would be over a week so can’t wait :(
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I’ve found them online for less than $1 so I was hoping not to be completely bent over :undecided: unfortunately shipping would be over a week so can’t wait :(
If you know the exact size and spec, you should be able to get high tensile bolts from a specialist bolt shop. But i guess they won't be much if any cheaper. :undecided:
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Just pay the 11 pound , and live .
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I’ve found them online for less than $1 so I was hoping not to be completely bent over :undecided: unfortunately shipping would be over a week so can’t wait :(
If you know the exact size and spec, you should be able to get high tensile bolts from a specialist bolt shop. But i guess they won't be much if any cheaper. :undecided:
Very true
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Just pay the 11 pound , and live .
There is that! I don’t actually know how bad the existing bolts are but 100000 miles sat expose on the bottom of the car probably has done them no favours
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I paid $17 for a genuine 19mm strut to knuckle bolt once. Insanity but I was stuck with a choice of no car or have it finished and safe. No time for pot luck at the wreckers either.
I check Koraps but with post and time not a huge difference to justify the delay.
I'm assuming the heads are badly corroded by salty roads.
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Just ordered them, guess it’s budget baked beans for the rest of the month then :blubber:
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Just ordered them, guess it’s budget baked beans for the rest of the month then :blubber:
But just think if you went with any ol bolt and it gave up the ghost while fitting or after a few miles you'll be kicking yourself for being a cheap skate........
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Just ordered them, guess it’s budget baked beans for the rest of the month then :blubber:
Don't worry, I'm like you. I hate being ripped off. I don't mind paying a fair price but that is a lot for a couple of bolts. :disapp:
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When I go pick them up I’ll make sure I rinse them for their free coffee... maybe bring a thermos along :idea:
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When I go pick them up I’ll make sure I rinse them for their free coffee... maybe bring a thermos along :idea:
:brilliant:
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Got my espresso choc and 10% off the bolts... can possibly upgrade to posher beans now :crazy1:
Anyone got the torque settings for the two bolts and the castellated one? Forgot to check before I went to the car
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Well the ball joint was well and truly stuck in there, rounded the thread off in my splitter. In my infinite wisdom and frustration got the angle grinder out and cut it off top and bottom.. forgetting it was tapered and wouldn’t just drop out. Cue two garages trying a hydraulic press, gas torch, hammering the **** out of it and an air chisel. Eventually had an engineering works drill the bastard out for a tenner but will be replacing the whole arm I think.
Also managed to catch the cv boot and bend the ARB link rod in the process. :crazy1:
Then did the rear discs and pads and found out one of the caliper boots has a big gash in it and has done for a while so will have to buy a new caliper now, fun :crazy2:
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Then did the rear discs and pads and found out one of the caliper boots has a big gash in it and has done for a while so will have to buy a new caliper now, fun :crazy2:
Start where you should have with the ball joint (hindsight :cool:) go to a wrecking yard.
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Well the ball joint was well and truly stuck in there, rounded the thread off in my splitter. In my infinite wisdom and frustration got the angle grinder out and cut it off top and bottom.. forgetting it was tapered and wouldn’t just drop out. Cue two garages trying a hydraulic press, gas torch, hammering the **** out of it and an air chisel. Eventually had an engineering works drill the bastard out for a tenner but will be replacing the whole arm I think.
Also managed to catch the cv boot and bend the ARB link rod in the process. :crazy1:
Then did the rear discs and pads and found out one of the caliper boots has a big gash in it and has done for a while so will have to buy a new caliper now, fun :crazy2:
Hindsight being that wonderfiul thing, removal of the entire arm with teh jooint in place may have been an option assuming the 2 bolts in teh knuckle came out, then we'd have to find out the specs of that Kiwi mallett required for removal.
was the breaker like the one I posted? just curious. Heating the joint, well if it's been heated nad red, i would consider it now questionable for use.
I've seen a garage reject a safety inspection on a vehicle due to evidence of a rod being heated to straighten.
Not an expert in that field.
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Its deal with a corrosion problem or save time by getting new or 2nd hand parts. There must be regions that don't salt their roads, so the chance of getting good parts from their wreckers should reasonable. :undecided:
Since I have been with ownersclub I have seen photos of crappy i30 suspensions, corroded to an extent that I never deal with anything that bad here in oz. They are all European and resemble some of our 4x4 s that have done alot of beach work and have not had a regular wash down afterwards.
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Well the ball joint was well and truly stuck in there, rounded the thread off in my splitter. In my infinite wisdom and frustration got the angle grinder out and cut it off top and bottom.. forgetting it was tapered and wouldn’t just drop out. Cue two garages trying a hydraulic press, gas torch, hammering the **** out of it and an air chisel. Eventually had an engineering works drill the bastard out for a tenner but will be replacing the whole arm I think.
Also managed to catch the cv boot and bend the ARB link rod in the process. :crazy1:
Then did the rear discs and pads and found out one of the caliper boots has a big gash in it and has done for a while so will have to buy a new caliper now, fun :crazy2:
Hindsight being that wonderfiul thing, removal of the entire arm with teh jooint in place may have been an option assuming the 2 bolts in teh knuckle came out, then we'd have to find out the specs of that Kiwi mallett required for removal.
was the breaker like the one I posted? just curious. Heating the joint, well if it's been heated nad red, i would consider it now questionable for use.
I've seen a garage reject a safety inspection on a vehicle due to evidence of a rod being heated to straighten.
Not an expert in that field.
Yes if I’d just taken the whole arm off to behind with then I may have gotten away with it!
Wasn’t heated until it went red so I’m hoping no structural changes.
Which breaker did you post? The one I used was the fork type which you wedge between then do up the bolt to push the ball joint bolt up?
New rear caliper is only £60-70 so I’ll get a new one I think :)
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Go to page 1 :mrgreen: 4th reply
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Go to page 1 :mrgreen: 4th reply
:Knock: You should add a sound track. :2giggling: :listentomusic:
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Go to page 1 :mrgreen: 4th reply
:Knock: You should add a sound track. :2giggling: :listentomusic:
Suggestions?
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Go to page 1 :mrgreen: 4th reply
:Knock: You should add a sound track. :2giggling: :listentomusic:
Suggestions?
Babyface:
I'm dying inside and nobody knows it but me
Like a clown I put on a show
The pain is real even if nobody knows…
Betty Who:
Forget I was born
Baby, ignore me
Since you don't need me anymore
Keith Urban:
Ain't it funny how the best days of my life
Was all that wasted time
All that wasted time
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Go to page 1 :mrgreen: 4th reply
:Knock: You should add a sound track. :2giggling: :listentomusic:
Suggestions?
Babyface:
I'm dying inside and nobody knows it but me
Like a clown I put on a show
The pain is real even if nobody knows…
Betty Who:
Forget I was born
Baby, ignore me
Since you don't need me anymore
Keith Urban:
Ain't it funny how the best days of my life
Was all that wasted time
All that wasted time
:sweating:
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Go to page 1 :mrgreen: 4th reply
I can see the two ball joint pics but the top pic is just a blank square?
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Go to page 1 :mrgreen: 4th reply
I can see the two ball joint pics but the top pic is just a blank square?
(https://image.ibb.co/cWGNGL/ball-joint-remover.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
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Yes that’s the type I used except the tool must be about 30 years old and I suspect I must have rounded it off about ten years ago the last time I used it :whistler:
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Yes that’s the type I used except the tool must be about 30 years old and I suspect I must have rounded it off about ten years ago the last time I used it :whistler:
:head_butt:
Oh well. i use a 6 sided impact socket and an air gun to drive mine.
Best of luck with the calipers
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Thinking about it I could have just put a nut or two on there that would have worked just as well!
Thanks fingers crossed