I’m keen to know the answer to this and am hoping someone can help Chatu.

Welcome

Hi there, Exelixis

to the forum.

I ordered a litre of Mannol brake fluid from an online seller recently to renew my brake fluid. On delivery, I noticed it was 2 small bottles which I naturally assumed to be 0.5 litre each. When I finally got around to doing the job, I noticed on closer inspection that they were 16 oz, 454g. It seems bizarre to sell a liquid by weight, not volume. After I finished I had drained 0.85 litre of old fluid and having emptied both bottles the level in the reservoir was below where it was when I started, so I don't think they contained any more than 0.8 litre.

Moral of the story is to check how big the bottle is before you buy.

I replaced the rear right caliper on my 2015 1.6 CRDi today. This is with manual handbrake. The handbrake had become quite slack lately, pulling up the mat in the centre console cubby-hole I could see that the handbrake cable on the right side was having to be pulled further forward with the handbrake on, indicating it was that side that was faulty.

With the wheel off and handbrake off (chock the front wheels), I could see that the crank that is pulled by the brake cable hadn't sprung back all the way so the shaft which passes through the back of the caliper body is seizing up, no doubt due to corrosion. Before taking the old caliper off, I'd suggest loosening off the brake hose banjo bolt, then tighten it lightly. It's easier to loosen off when the caliper is firmly held. After undoing the caliper retaining bolts, lift the old caliper away from the pads and wind the piston in to expel fluid out of the caliper. Detach the handbrake cable and tuck the old caliper out of the way.

Before offering up the new caliper, wind the piston out as far as it will go whilst still being able to slide it over the pads. I used vernier calipers to measure the thickness of pad + disc + pad, then wound the piston out until the gap from the piston to the caliper body was slightly wider. The slots in the piston face have to be in the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions to fit over the pip in the back of the disc pad, so you can only wind the piston in or out in increments of half a turn.

Once the caliper is secured by the two bolts, transfer the brake hose from the old caliper to the new one as quickly as possible to minimise fluid loss. Tighten the banjo bolt to 35Nm, and wipe away any brake fluid off the caliper. Bleed air out of the caliper and press the brake pedal a few times to advance the pads up to the disc. Check there are no leaks. Fit the handbrake cable to the crank on the new caliper, I had to reach down into the centre console and slacken off the handbrake adjuster nut by 18 clicks (9 turns) in order to get the eye in the end of the cable over the hook on the crank. I retightened the adjuster nut by 10 clicks at which point the handbrake seemed tight enough. Once I've taken it out for a test drive and the caliper has had a chance to bed in I'll re-adjust as necessary.