« Last post by raypinkerton May 08, 2024, 13:42:07 »
I was gathering part numbers for weather seals for the doors on my FD from a Korean online supply company. As far as I'm aware these as USD prices. I think I have understood the parts breakdown correctly.
Front Door (on body) 821402L000 WEATHERSTRIP ASSY - FRONT DOOR SIDE RH 82140B 20.02.2008 - 08.05.2012 821302L000 WEATHERSTRIP ASSY - FRONT DOOR SIDE LH 82130C 20.02.2008 - 08.05.2012
Rear Door (on body) 831102H001 WEATHERSTRIP - REAR DOOR BODY SIDE LH 83110B 20.02.2008 - 08.05.2012 $38.02 831202H001 WEATHERSTRIP - REAR DOOR BODY SIDE RH 83120B 20.02.2008 - 08.05.2012 $38.02
WEATHERSTRIP BELT MOULDING OUTSIDE 822202L000 WEATHERSTRIP ASSY - FRONT DOOR BELT OUTSIDE RH 82220 20.02.2008 - 08.05.2012 $18.63 822102L000 WEATHERSTRIP - FRONT DOOR BELT OUTSIDE LH 82210A 20.02.2008 - 08.05.2012 $18.63 822192H000 CLIP - DOOR BELT OUTSIDE WEATHERSTRIP MOUNTING 82219 20.02.2008 - 08.05.2012 10 pcs $ 0.53
832102L000 WEATHERSTRIP ASSY - REAR DOOR BELT OUTSIDE LH 83210 20.02.2008 - 08.05.2012 $19.36 832202L000 WEATHERSTRIP ASSY - REAR DOOR BELT OUTSIDE RH 83220 20.02.2008 - 08.05.2012 $19.36
INSIDE 822312L000 WEATHERSTRIP - FRONT DOOR BELT INSIDE LH 82231 20.02.2008 - 01.09.2008 $14.21 822412L000 WEATHERSTRIP - FRONT DOOR BELT INSIDE RH 82241 20.02.2008 - 01.09.2008 $14.21 832312L000 WEATHERSTRIP - REAR DOOR BELT INSIDE LH 83231 20.02.2008 - 08.05.2012 $13.67 832412L000 WEATHERSTRIP - REAR DOOR BELT INSIDE RH 83241 20.02.2008 - 08.05.2012 $13.67
Maybe these part numbers will help in your search.
Ugh - had a day from hell. Short version - NEVER, EVER have confidence in the basic commonsense, intelligence & human decency of your societal peers when sitting on a jury in a very important court case.
Dropped car off at local Hyundai dealer - explained issue/s. As I avoid them like thee plague (going to the dealer) I also asked if they could check if any vehicle firmware needed updating, specifically the DCT (as I was led to believe this was still the OEM version and had been improved). Also had a rego check done as thats next month or so.
End of day came back after my civic service, advised the Left rear wheel speed sensor was shown immediately by their system to be the issue. They checked it, appeared fine to inspection but tested and it failed so they replaced.
$496 for this alone (not including the rego check).
They claimed 2hrs labour for the job - suffice to say I found it a tad exhorbitant but after having a car reduced to 1990's level of safety for a month (no ABS, no ESP etc) and on the back of a horrid day I just went on my way putting it down as a lesson why I don't go to the dealer. Have attached the invoice with old school redacting - just incase it helps others that have a similar issue.
It appears the sensors are available for $60-100. You may be able to simply install and then clear the codes via a battery disconnection etc - but DYOR.
Lil annoyed overall as a 2018 car should not have ABS sensors failing already.......
Hi there Greyhound, cranking, no start assumed it was the fuel pump because i could not hear the fuel pump priming checked fuses and relay all good. Used some easy start spray no joy, I've managed to start the car up by unlocking and locking the door , it's immobiliser related because I don't have the fob anymore, on the dash the immobilizer icon was solid amber and not flashing the car starting on first key turn over, is this temporary fix or do I get replacement fob from dealership what option do I have?
« Last post by WadeComplex May 07, 2024, 16:58:49 »
Good morning, ladies and gentlemen,
I have an odd one, my head unit display is white. I don't mean dull, or baked from being in the sun, I mean the entire screen goes solid white and lit up, as if every pixel is being told to produce the colour white when my head unit is on. I can't seem to think of any way to resolve this, outside of buying a used head unit from a wrecker, which is frustrating as the unit works in every other way. I can play my music through Android Auto, listen to the radio, touch the screen and interact with it (without any idea what I'm pressing when it's all white). Outside of the white, bright screen running, it is still running smoothly.
« Last post by raypinkerton May 07, 2024, 11:05:30 »
Broke a plastic clip in the window regulator of the drivers door (third time) recently. Pulled the door apart and wedged the window up with a stick so I could use the car. Got replacement clips and went to put it back together but can't find one of the metal arms with the glass clamp that slide into the plastic clip. I have looked everywhere but I've managed to lose it somehow.
I was wondering if any members had purchased a regulator from the wreckers for the plastic clips and maybe has one of these arms spare they would like to sell? Please pm me if so. I'm on the north side of Brisbane.
Aye30 in his post above has a good suggestion. In the day, I used automotive/mechanics stethoscopes to isolate the location of noises, see my post at Cold start rattle 2012 GD Premium 1.8 auto.
If you haven't got an automotive stethoscope, I recommend getting one (a good brand name) as they are reasonably cheap for what they can do. I'd run the probe of the stethoscope over the more likely culprits e.g. along the "rocker cover" (forgot its modern name ) under the large plastic cover atop of the engine and along the timing chain cover and tensioner. Don't test too many places the first time as it just makes it harder to remember their noises.
With a stethoscope I would: (1) Test with the engine cold, at idle and at slightly increased revs. (2) Test with the engine warmed up (not hot!!), at idle and at slightly increased revs. (3) Test with the engine at operating temperature, at idle and at slightly increased revs.
Hopefully, you should be able to detect the location where the noise starts loud and then quietens down as the engine heats up. Just a thought.
Got a 2023 PD Hatch. Every now and then the LHR seat belt warning goes off while driving, and there is no one in the seat. Has anyone else had this issue?
Hmmmm seems a very widespread issue across a bunch of Hyundai & Kia models. I wonder why there hasn't been a recall on it? As ABS modules should not be shitting themselves in that manner - I cannot even recall the last time ours was activated.
Checked the fuses, all appear ok from basic inspection (removed and looked over). ABS module is right at the back right hand corner on mine, near impossible to inspect & I'm not sure I like the idea of whacking it.
Have yet another week of rain ahead of us and so have booked into the local Hyundai dealership as just can't run the risk of keeping on the daily transit with no ABS, ESC, AEB etc.....supplied them with Gazza's info so we will see.
Got to my mechanic who scanned the car with his 'proper' OBD scanner equipment. This has detected an ABS fault (C240201 as per attached picture). He attempted to clear the error but it immediately came back. He suggested that it could be that the ABS motor could be stuck and giving the motor housing a hard tap might free it up.
Other suggestions from my own investigations yesterday say it could be the following: "The code means there is a problem with the circuit for the ABS pump motor. Before you start swapping parts have you checked the ABS fuses? There will be two, one for the pump and one for the solenoid block. They are usually the large square type fuses located on the engine bay fusebox. You should also check the main power supplies and grounds at the ABS module connector. There are usually 4 terminals on module connector that are larger than all the others. Two of them are the power supplies that come from the two ABS fuses, and the other two are the pump and solenoid block earths. If one of the power supplies or earths is bad that could cause the trouble code." I checked my fuses but they were fine. Have not had a chance to test the power supplies and grounds as yet.
It also seems that this is a fairly common issue on a number of Hyundai vehicles such as the Tucson and now the Kona EV (recall has been done on this vehicle).
I'm relieved it is (probably) not the radar but then again, the ABS motor is just as expensive. I see the unit can be rebuilt but not sure about the option where I live.
I had this exact condition on my 2012, 18.L GD series. I never did anything about. I kept the car until 2023 when I sold it with 135,000kms. Nothing ever went wrong with the engine in all those years and just kept to the normal annual servicing/15,000km intervals - zero oil consumption.
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Cold start rattle 2012 GD Premium 1.8 auto
) under the large plastic cover atop of the engine and along the timing chain cover and tensioner. Don't test too many places the first time as it just makes it harder to remember their noises.