[ivanhyundaii30]

Hi guys,

really great forum, i find so many useful information here. Thanks for that.

I have an electrical problem with my Hyundai i30, 1.4 petrol, 2010. My illuminations are not working after I left the car to be installed gas fuel. The guy there placed the gas indicator on the dashboard where the rheostat dimmer should be located. My model does not have a dimmer switch as standard(the dash illuminates on full power), but the cables(3 wires) are provided and 2 wires are connected in order the dash to illuminates on max. While the gas guy was working there, the bridge that connect the 2 wires fall down and i think he put it back but connecting wrong wires. That is why i fount that that all my illuminations in the interior are not working and also fog lights were not working. What happened is that the fuse(TAIL RH 10A) was blown. I changed the fuse and the fog lights started working, but the illuminations did not. I checked all other fuses, everything is fine. Do you know what is the shunt connector(please see wiring) for, i think maybe it is blown, since i do not have +12V on pin 18 of the fuse box connector. I measured the fuse itself and it does have +12V. So my only guess it that the shunt connector is damaged. I think it is situated inside the fuse box. Has someone opened the fuse box? Can i somehow change it?

Thanks!

[cruiserfied]

Is your glovebox light working?

[ivanhyundaii30]

Hi,

yes, glovebox light is working, also the interior cabin light is working. What is not working is the dashboard illuminations and all other switches that needs to illuminate(like climate control, windows power up/down switches on the doors, basically everything).

[cruiserfied]

Ok and you definitely checked power at pin18 on connector I/P-B with light switched turned on?

[ivanhyundaii30]

Yes,

i turned on light switch and measured pin 18. It had no power, while there was power at the fuse box(TAIL RH 10A). Maybe i need to measure pin 10 of I-P/C connector. That would ensure that there is broken connection inside the fuse box. I think something happened when i changed the initially blown fuse, maybe this shunt connector is the problem, however i am not sure if i can even open the fuse box to look inside. Maybe it is capsulated.

[Phil №❶]

Member Cruiserfied is a Hy master technician, follow his advice 

[cruiserfied]

Terminal 10 at I/P-C will be fine. This is why I asked if your glovebox light worked, it does so you have power at terminal 10.
From the information at hand there seems to be a breakdown inside the fuse box as you suspected.
Pulling fuse box apart is do-able but with a high level of caution. There will be a lot of electronics inside and if you are not familiar with electronics you may cause further issues.
Another option would be to run a jump wire from I/C-B 18 to I/P-C 10. Should do exactly the same as standard layout while bypassing O/C.

[ivanhyundaii30]

Cruiserfied,

thank you for your help. I will try to run jump wire between I/P-B 18 and I/P-C 10 pins. That should do the trick.
One more question: once i get it working i should also have power on the rheostat(dimmer) cable(pin 3 of the rheostat photo). I should then make a jump between pin 1 and 2 of the cable in order to have my illuminations on full power, right?

[cruiserfied]

Can't say 100% but I think yes that will work.

[Phil №❶]

Cruiserfied,

thank you for your help. I will try to run jump wire between I/P-B 18 and I/P-C 10 pins. That should do the trick.
One more question: once i get it working i should also have power on the rheostat(dimmer) cable(pin 3 of the rheostat photo). I should then make a jump between pin 1 and 2 of the cable in order to have my illuminations on full power, right?

If you have a spare spo, you could buy the rheostat & fit like some other member's have.

[ivanhyundaii30]

Cruiserfied,

thank you for your help. I will try to run jump wire between I/P-B 18 and I/P-C 10 pins. That should do the trick.
One more question: once i get it working i should also have power on the rheostat(dimmer) cable(pin 3 of the rheostat photo). I should then make a jump between pin 1 and 2 of the cable in order to have my illuminations on full power, right?

If you have a spare spo, you could buy the rheostat & fit like some other member's have.

Yes, unfortunately the gas indicator is mounted there, so i need to keep the original configuration
Thanks for the suggestion.

[ivanhyundaii30]

Hi guys,

i managed to fix the problem with getting power supply from another point from the fuse box. Indeed the problem seems to be in the fuse box itself. The important is that i have now working illuminations.

Thanks for your help!

[cruiserfied]

Good and bad. At least it's all working for you.

[Asterix]

Thanks for the update. 

As long as the missing power in the fusebox isn't affecting anything else, then no more worries... 

[Dazzler]