[i30Dave]

Here's the story so far.

First tank : 690km's  -  Unleaded 98 octane  -  53 litres
Second tank : 600km's  - Unleaded 91 octane   -  53 litres

If this is anything to go by then i will be only using 98
octane fuel in the future. I filled up today the DTE was reading
"---" and i managed to get 58 litres in. So i'm hoping for the magic
700km barrier this tank.

[buddyforu]

Hmmm might have to try the 98 octane as well!

[Dazzler]

Hi Dave..

Any noticeable difference in driveability or performance with the 98 octane?

[Lakes]

i like caltex, BP, Mobil 98 as not only helps economy, it keeps inside combustion chamber clean, so injectors stay clean so do spark plugs, but spark plugs won't last longer just can help when time comes to remove them. just the 98 in expensive like diesel.
cheers

[Dazzler]

Hi John,

Was interested how much difference hi-octane makes to the i30 petrol (as it makes a lot more difference with cars tuned to use it than with some other models)

Guess Dave or someone else who has tried it in their i30 Petrol will advise in due course.

Dave must be busy since he got the new SR (not on here much lately) ...

I might have to spend a little less time on here soon when my house starts going up (or the wife will growl)..

Cheers,

Dazz

[tk421]

Hi Guys,

I’m averaging about 7.8 l/100km on regular unleaded after 5000km. I do drive it like a miser though. I once managed to get it down to 7.0 l/100km after a 50km journey, but that was with almost no traffic on the roads. Most of my driving is done on highways during times of low traffic.

I’m yet to try the higher octane fuels, but will give them a go in the next few months and see if they’re any better.

Tim  

[Lakes]

Hi John,

Was interested how much difference hi-octane makes to the i30 petrol (as it makes a lot more difference with cars tuned to use it than with some other models)

Guess Dave or someone else who has tried it in their i30 Petrol will advise in due course.

Dave must be busy since he got the new SR (not on here much lately) ...

I might have to spend a little less time on here soon when my house starts going up (or the wife will growl)..

Cheers,

Dazz

Dazz, to get full benifet of high octain ( but this is just 98 RON not 98 PON ) you need to have enough compression, the EFI ECU normally has power and economy programed in so when you get better fuel it changes it's settings, if you have poor fuel quality it will set to the least aggressive settings. using hi octain fuel does not mean you will have more HP, in some cases you will have less HP. the motor makes best power right on the Virge of detonation.
cheers

Lakes, Tim, etc,

With a previous vehicle, I was told that if I swapped from standard fuel to high octane or for that matter an ethonol blend, it would be sometime before the ECU would make the adjustments relative to the fuel type.  If this is correct, swapping and change frequently will not be of benefit (and may have the ECU very confused).  Again, if I am right, it would pay to stick to the same fuel for a while before making comparisons.

Another way around this may be to reset the ECU (wipe it clean).  There are a number of ways this can be done and if you Google it, there is a wealth on information on how to go about resetting the ECU.  Some drivers even do this to secondhand cars they buy.  They say it is one way of having the car forget the driving styles and habits of the previous owner and get the engine to respond to their techniques and habits.

I am not promoting resetting the ECU.  I would not like to mess with this myself.

Bob

[Lakes]

Bob,
I have not done much reserch on different make cars ECU, but my Falcon ute is a three valve per cylinder V8 5.4L it can run on standard unlead, but if i run it for months on standard unlead, then run it low and fill it right up on say BP ultimate 98 or Shell V-Power i can notice a gain in feel and responce fairly quickly it also gets better economy.

also as it is set on the rich side if you give it Wide open throtle the Air Fuel Ratio is very rich, so with the High octain 100 shell make it tends to lean out the air fuel ratio slightly so you get better responce that you can feel. reason is ethanole or methanole at 100% would be ideal about from 7 to 9 AFR were as ideal for normal unlead is from 12.7 to 14.2 12.7 being on the performance side as richest for all out HP ( my falcon goes even richer wide open) and the 14.2 being as lean as is safe for economy but if your runing at 14.2 and you use wide open throtle for a long period can do damage as that would be as lean as they would go if your driving easy and the ECU goes to economy mode. but if your air sensor plays up the ECU does not work right and can cause problems. Ford use there own type of ECU and does not use a chip, but people can plug in overide to adjust them, the best seems to be a compleat replacement like Autronic or MoTeC
Cheers

[Hemmi]

Well my ride has now done about 2300km and I decided to reset the fuel economy meter and drove about an hour city drive, about 20km/ up to 80km/h
I changed gear after 2000rpm, so that seems to be better than changing after 2500rmp, like I always did.
I got 6.6l/100km and I think that's quite good, then I drove like I usually do and got 6.9l/100km.

For those who don't know how to reset the meter, just hold the trip button in for 2-3 seconds.

[i30Dave]

Last Tank 720km before i filled up. Economy is sitting on
7.6l/100km (factory quoted economy)

[G14Classified101]

In my brand new 2.0L SR my best has been 6.9 for like 5 mins but it is averagin between 7.2 and 8.1 depending where i am. I am running caltex 98. Nothing beats it. And when she is run in using ecstacy octane booster pills. bump it up to 110RON or there abouts.

[Lakes]

In my brand new 2.0L SR my best has been 6.9 for like 5 mins but it is averagin between 7.2 and 8.1 depending where i am. I am running caltex 98. Nothing beats it. And when she is run in using ecstacy octane booster pills. bump it up to 110RON or there abouts.

Mate, the 98 caltex 98 BP 98 MObil are all very good as they keep your motor clean inside, but raising the octain useing pil's is a waist of time and $, and if indeed it raises octain to 110 it will make your car slower, as your motor will make its best power when it is just at the virge of detonation if you have not got enough compresson and you put slow burning fuel in it will make less power and would do nothing for fuel economy.
there is different ways to measure octain. the 98 octain we have is measured at the refinery so they call it RON ( Refinery octain number ) in USA they measure there octain at the pump so in most cases PON ( pump octain number ) is 92 or 93 premium is about same as our 98 as each time you pump or pore fuel it looses octain. for race cars all they care about is MON (motor octain number). if you have race fuel that is rated at 110 octain you would need around 13. to 1 compression make power. just thought i'd point this out. some of the stuff they sell is not that good.
Cheers

[Markusus]

Guys - I ride I30 1.4 Petrol. I drove 1700km so far.
My fuel consumtion is now 7.2 - 7.5 for HEAVY town traffic conditions.
For highway (100-120km/h) it is 6.3 to 6.6.
For combined ride (town, out-of-town roads) it is 6.3 to 6.8.
I was also able to achieve 5.8-5.9 on some roads, but in town it always jumps higher of course.

Generally I can say - the real average consumption is mostly between 6.7 to 7.0 litres.

It depends very much on the style of your driving. If you shift between 2000-2500rpm - you can get what I get - but if you drive more aggressively (hard to resist especially because petrol i30 is starting some serious torque above 3500 ) - it will rise of course.

---

Also -- I wanted to ask - it there any sense/reason in fueling 98 octane petrol instead of 95 octane petrol? (We are talking about EU "normalized" petrol - sold in Czech and Slovak Republic)? What is your experience?

[eye30]

Also -- I wanted to ask - it there any sense/reason in fueling 98 octane petrol instead of 95 octane petrol? (We are talking about EU "normalized" petrol - sold in Czech and Slovak Republic)? What is your experience?

When I had petrol Accent 1.3l I tried both grades of petrol.  The only difference I found was on the pocket.

However, a friend had a 1.8l or 2l Audi and he reckoned with the higher octane the car ran better and he got 5 -10 extra miles per gallon. I think it was all in his mind! (my theory was because the cost was more he didn't raz the car as much).

My advice would be to try both and then choose according.

[Markusus]

My advice would be to try both and then choose according.

sounds like a lot of testing and trying - i am unsure I'll be able to find some conclusions in weeks already. Anyone has experience with I30 petrol directly? (and octane 95 vs 98 petrol?)

[G14Classified101]

Guys ive jumped straight on the 98 bandwagon due to my alfa 75 2.0L twin spark (last car until my little bro put it into a guard rail drifting (was a sick drift though but over corrected when he saw a copper).) Anyways. in the alfa id get an extra 80-100 km per tank running 98 and the throttle response was heaps better to.

I havent put anything other than 98 in the i30 so i cant tell you if its better.

[bumpkin]

Hey folks

Have just come back from a short holiday where I totalled approx 550 miles of Scottish up, down roundabout, stop, start driving on one tank of petrol which I thought was pretty damn good, especially considering we were fully laden with suitcases, food and all the other extraneous junk that a 3.5 year old requires for a week away from home for about half of the mileage and the car has only just done its first 1000 miles so going by the comments should if anything get even better.  Sorry for the imperial measurements, I cant be bothered converting at this time of night!!

Cheers
Brian

[Dazzler]

550 miles on one tank of Petrol....That's roughly 800Km ... don't think many of our 1.6 ltr petrol members will better that...

[Shamanix]

My car now has only 300km and trip computer says 7.1 liter in city traffic, I am hoping that to drop after 1000km..
I am driving on gas fuel, so I am doing ~130km for only 10 US$ = 10 liters of gas in city traffic

[Markusus]

I'd like to test the difference between fueling octane 95 and 98 petrol. But one thing that REALLY bothers me is the missing Immediate Fuel Consumption Info on Trip Computer! I really don't get it why they only put average FC there! MAN!...
There is a solution for that called ScanGauge2 - I wanted to ask about anyone's experience with it here...
And eventually - is there another product that can do the job maybe even better?
I am considering to buy it but I wonder if there is any seller - shop that has it in Slovak Republic or Czech Republic.

Also I wonder where is some SERIOUS shope with I30 accessories in Slovakia, Czech Rep. or evenutally Vienna - because all Hyundai official sellers in here have NOTHING special to sell - SHAME! --- any tips how to get some good stuff (like better protective bumpers, etc...)?

Some of you guys post REALLY good results with regards to FC - like 800km driven on one full tank, etc... was it in real conditions - combined drive - highway and town - fully loaded?

thanks,

[cammj]

I'm not quite sure how the i30 calculates the fuel usage, im making the assumption that the i30 calculates an average from the last 100KM because my new i30 (as in just purchased today) went from 11 at the start of the day (with just 56KM on the odo) down to 8 now. I'm hoping in another 20-40KM i should be able to get a pretty consistent and stable reading.

cammj,

The computer calculation of LPH km is not rocket science.  It waits about 50m and then reports the fuel usage (LPH km) as an average for the distance travelled since the trip computer was reset.  It keeps calculating it as an average until it is reset.  At the beginning (after the reset), it flips around a bit until you have done a few kms, then it settles down.  If you don't reset it (I reset it at each refill), you get a good idea of the average for a tank full.  Recently, on a long trip interstate, I did not reset it until the trip was completed.  I did this to get an idea of what the fuel economy would be like over a distance of around 3900km at highway speeds on such a trip.  Once I had done around 1500km, the fuel consumption reported did not change, sitting on 5.0 LPH until I finished the trip.   We have a diesel, so the figure is of little interest to petrol i30 owners.

Bob

[buddyforu]

Took the SR on a round trip to Mission Beach/Tully today. Managed an average of 7.61L/100km which is right on the manufacturers claim for the auto, and the lowest consumption I have achieved to date. This was with the A/C on all day, and  about 100km of this trip was spent driving within the towns. Very impressed!!  

[Dazzler]

Nice result Buddy - cheers  

[donc]

I'd like to test the difference between fueling octane 95 and 98 petrol. But one thing that REALLY bothers me is the missing Immediate Fuel Consumption Info on Trip Computer! I really don't get it why they only put average FC there! MAN!...

Hi Markusus - I'm a bit of a stickler for vehicle statistics - my wife says it's a personality flaw    - If you really want accurate info, forget about the trip computer because it's inherently linked to the inbuild inaccuracy of the speedo/odometer (can be as much as 10% depending on tyre size and pressures).

I use an iMate Ultimate mobile phone/GPS loaded with Copilot Live that as well as stopping me from getting lost, also calculates most of my vehicle stats - just enter the litres each time I fill-up and it gives a very accurate indicator of true consumption. Added bonus is it's also loaded with Google Maps and Street and being 'net enabled gives access to Sensis and Whitepages.com etc. Plus it's a blue-tooth mobile and sits very nicely in the little tray beneath the dash. Easily visible without distracting from the road. Only criticism I have of the i30 is that it's not bluetooth enabled even though mot cars are nowadays - I had to fit a BlueAnt to make the phone/GPS hands-free.

the trip computer because it's inherently linked to the inbuild inaccuracy of the speedo/odometer (can be as much as 10% depending on tyre size and pressures).

The 10% inaccuracy that exists is related to the speed indicated by the needle on the speedometer.  It does not relate to the distances indicated on the odometer and hence the information on the trip computer.  I have checked the odometer against the GPS and found the error to be minimal.  By all means, check it if you want and make your own judgements.  Also, the distances reported by the ODBII port are near enough to correct, as is the speed reported by this port.  The greatest error I have found over 1000+km is less than 10km (less than 1%).  If fuel filling at the bowser to calculate fuel consumption the errors involved in most instances will be greater than 1%.

Manufacturers build in the error on the speedometer dial so that it is always registering over the actual speed for legal reasons.  As the distance travelled will not result in legal challenges, they can be far more accurate in reporting the actual distances + or - a minimal error.  For this reason the odometer readouts are going to far more accurate.

So, in short, it is my belief and experience that the speedo is out, but the odometer is as near as possible to accurate given the limitations of such a complex measuring device.  I would hazard at a guess that fuel bowser calibration and fillup methods used by owners involve equal or greater errors.

Bob

[donc]

The 10% inaccuracy that exists is related to the speed indicated by the needle on the speedometer. It does not relate to the distances indicated on the odometer and hence the information on the trip computer.

Hi Bob,

The speedo and odometer are mechanically linked so variances in one equally impacts the other. Also if you recall the legal case against Honda last year, (affecting all US models produced between 2002-6) it's evident that if an odometer overstates the KM traveled there can be severe implications under law (impact on car warranty conditions etc.) - hence odometers also understate the KM you travel by design.

However the factor with the largest impact on speedo and odometer readings remains car tires and wheels - A lot of people in my part of the world fit oversize "winter-tread" type tires to their cars because of the types of road surface they use, to improve vehicle economy and tire life expectancy. Conversely a 15 psi drop in tire pressure can result in as much as a 20% discrepancy in odometer and speedo readings. Lots of factors can impact on this, which is why a GPS is a far more accurate way of measuring km's traveled - it measures distances from a geographical perspective. An odometer only measures how many times your wheels turn around.

[Lakes]

That's interesting don.
i know my i30 speedo is a bit happy , just thought the trip reads fairly close. I know about Tyre's expanding but don't think it is that dramatic, i run my tyres at around 40psi ( thats if my tyre pressure gauge is still accurate.)
Those imates are good.

Beg to differ donc.  All the guages and computer are electronic and linked to the onboard computer - I agree with that.  However, just because speedo and the trip computer are on the dash, does not mean they are calibrated the same.  I've done a lot of testing of the trip meter, the odometer, the speedo, etc. over the last 6 months.  Now I am speaking for my i30 and I would hope that others can do similar testing to establish their own opinion.  Regards tyres, mine are standard issue and so are the rims.   I've also added a ScanGuage to reads data from the ODBII (or is that OBDII) port. Oh, and I have a GPS (TomTom) fitted as well.

Now, this is what I have discovered:
The Speedo is definitely out about 8-10% depending on what speed you are travelling.  I've compared this to the GPS.
The ScanGuage registers speeds with in a 1km tolerance with the GPS at any speed.  Should I fit different sized tyres, or should the ScanGuage not be accurate enough, it has the capacity for me to make corrections - I have not needed to do so.
The difference between the GPS and the odometer is around a 1.2% error (not 8-10% as with the speedo).  I feel this is a reasonable tolerance.
The difference between the ScanGuage odometer reading and the GPS reading is <1% as is the difference between the ScanGuage and the i30 odometer.

As I have said elsewhere, I believe the errors between the real world and the odometer are acceptable.  At worst, they may result in a 0.1LPH error in fuel consumption.  Such a variation could easily result from errors in bowser readings and/or variations in filling the tank to the same level.

By all means donc, do your own testing and post your findings.  They may differ from mine, but I am happy with how things are with the odometer, although the speedo is way out, as they are on most cars these days.  I was a passanger inan Falcon on the weekend and the owner said his speedo is way out too, but his trip computer readings agree with his GPS.  Makes you wonder.

Bob