i30 Owners Club

K & N Air Filter

Guest · 69 · 19011

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline rustynutz

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 17,513

    • au Australia
      South Gippsland
This fits diesel or petrol i30.... :goodjob:

:link:


Offline succulant

  • 4th Gear
  • *
  • Never buy a Citroën
    • Posts: 448

    • scotland Scotland
      Lanarkshire
Won't it invalidate your warranty though and you'd have to declare it on your insurance as being a performance enhancing modification?
  • Comfort CRDI (115), Suzuki Ignis Sport, Rover Mini 30


Offline rustynutz

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 17,513

    • au Australia
      South Gippsland
There's been heaps of previous discussion on here....  :winker:

K&N says it will not void vehicle warranty..... :undecided:

I bought one so I didn't have the on going cost of buying a filter during the life of the car....  :D 



Offline Asterix

  • V.I.P
  • *
  • i40 CRDi 100kW 2013
    • Posts: 4,434

    • dk Denmark
      Sdr. Omme - DK
There have been problems with the oil from the K&N filters damaging the air flow sensor.
  • i40 CRDi 100 kW 2013


Offline rustynutz

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 17,513

    • au Australia
      South Gippsland

Offline komaterpillar

  • 3rd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 289

    • au Australia
      Toowoomba
Im not saying your wrong but K&N wouldn't go out and tell everyone if there filters were the cause MAF sensor failures, and I reckon they would also rigorously defend there own product, my thinkings are that if oil from the filter was to reach the 3 or in some cases 4 or 5 Tungsten/platinum wires found in a hot wire type sensor, it would be burnt and turned to carbon and could cause the wire to short out or blow thus causing sensor failure,

Just my 2 cents worth  :mrgreen:


Offline komaterpillar

  • 3rd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 289

    • au Australia
      Toowoomba
I've also seen an overoiled K&N filter that filled the entire inlet tract of a landcruiser with a sticky oily coating of filter oil residue, so the claim that even an over oiled filter will not let oil get to the MAF sensor is false


Offline rustynutz

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 17,513

    • au Australia
      South Gippsland
I guess nothing is completely "idiot proof"...... :rolleyes:

Btw, did you read their mass air flow testing findings?

http://www.knfilters.com/maf/massairfindings.htm


Offline komaterpillar

  • 3rd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 289

    • au Australia
      Toowoomba
I guess nothing is completely "idiot proof"...... :rolleyes:

Btw, did you read their mass air flow testing findings?

http://www.knfilters.com/maf/massairfindings.htm

yeah read it


Offline rustynutz

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 17,513

    • au Australia
      South Gippsland
This is worth a read too...

http://www.knfilters.com/news/news.aspx?ID=422

Could your landcruiser with the sticky oily coating have been caused by this?

Quote
There was also evidence of motor oil contamination from blow-by; a condition where oil vapor from combustion is re-circulated into the vehicle’s intake tract.


Offline komaterpillar

  • 3rd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 289

    • au Australia
      Toowoomba
This is worth a read too...

http://www.knfilters.com/news/news.aspx?ID=422

Could your landcruiser with the sticky oily coating have been caused by this?

Quote
There was also evidence of motor oil contamination from blow-by; a condition where oil vapor from combustion is re-circulated into the vehicle’s intake tract.

nah it was filter oil, heres the reasons:
-because the oil mess started at the air box and went the whole way through the inlet tract.
-the residue was red and sticky, same color as the air-filter oil
-the crank case ventilation hose enteres the inlet tract way after the airbox and although there was evidence of engine oil coming from here, it was black and a different texture and could be clearly seen to start at the point where the vent hose entered the air stream
-and lastly have you ever got some filter oil on your hand? its sticky and has a texture totally of its own, you can tell the difference!


Offline rustynutz

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 17,513

    • au Australia
      South Gippsland
Fair enough  :goodjob:

At the end of the day it's up to whoever's re oiling the filter to do it as per specs.
If they're not competent enough to do this, then perhaps they need to stick with paper elements.   :undecided:


Offline rustynutz

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 17,513

    • au Australia
      South Gippsland
If you're considering a K&N Filter it might be worth watching this video so you'll know what's involved when it comes to cleaning it.  :)



Offline Asterix

  • V.I.P
  • *
  • i40 CRDi 100kW 2013
    • Posts: 4,434

    • dk Denmark
      Sdr. Omme - DK
There have been problems with the oil from the K&N filters damaging the air flow sensor.

Well, I must admit my postulation is not from personal experience.

However, I have never been a fan of these things. They say you can gain a few HP by using their filters. Yeah, you also gain a few HP by turning of your A/C, but i doesn't make you car faster.

I would never put in an air filter in my car that needed oil in it to work properly.
  • i40 CRDi 100 kW 2013


Offline rustynutz

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 17,513

    • au Australia
      South Gippsland
Your choice, Asterix,  I didn't buy it to gain extra horse power, I bought it so I'd never have to buy another filter over the life of the vehicle....  :whistler:



Offline kabukiman

  • 3rd Gear
  • *
  • apricot herder
    • Posts: 131

    • au Australia
      Melbourne, Victoria
oiled 'performance' filters have no place in a road car.

They sacrifice filtering quality for flow, but it hardly matters in a n/a engine in a road car.  You won't notice a difference, it'll be fiddly to service/oil properly and it will let more crap into your engine.

Performance filters which sacrifice filtering for flow are meant for purpose built intakes on competition cars where the engine gets torn down and rebuilt now and then anyway.

OE paper filters will always do the best job.

I'm not just pulling this out of my arse, it's true, do some research and factor in the maintenance and risks associated with these filters before you buy one.  They won't enhance performance in any noticeable manner.


Offline Phil №❶

  • Top Gear
  • *
  • Loco, most of the time!
    • Posts: 21,976

    • au Australia
      Mos Eisley, South Australia
I'm not just pulling this out of my arse.

That's good :exclaim: :eek:
  • 2008 SX CRDi Auto White (Lila)[hr]2010 SLX CRDi Auto Red (Ruby)


Offline rustynutz

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 17,513

    • au Australia
      South Gippsland
I'm concerned about what else is coming out.... :p


Offline eugene188

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 80

    • ca Canada
      Ottawa, Canada

  • MY2011 Elantra Touring, Automatic. Ottawa, Ont. CA
Do Injen, AEM and all those other companies who make filters use oil ones too?

Edit; was just on the AEM site, it says no oil.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2012, 05:03:51 by eugene188 »
  • Elantra Touring GL, Automatic


Offline Keith

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 2,284

    • england England
      Telford, Shropshire, England.

  • Call sign Golf 4 Victor Zulu Kilo
I'm feeling I'd keep oiled filters outa my car too... o2 sensors dont like that oil either, not just the MAF etc.
  • Now owning a Ford 1.0 Zetec S Fiesta


Offline eugene188

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 80

    • ca Canada
      Ottawa, Canada

  • MY2011 Elantra Touring, Automatic. Ottawa, Ont. CA
Here is a good read of some dude that actually tested a bunch of these drop in filters and drove with them in his car. Dude here says the difference is minimal. I am actually quite surprised by the amount of dirt that the paper filters let pass!
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

and an additional article of actual performance cone filters. The say the difference is huge (is 1kPa difference huge? thats like 1% of atmospheric pressure) compared to stock paper filters.
http://www.fastcar.co.uk/2012/05/04/performance-car-air-filter-test/
  • Elantra Touring GL, Automatic


Offline Just Rick

  • V.I.P
  • *
  • Big Dogs Rule
    • Posts: 7,617

    • au Australia
      Beverley Western Australia

  • miracles can happen
I've used K&N Filters for years never had problem,if you don't know how or when to clean em,don't use em.funny how you have knockers of oil coated filters,funny how no more than 50 years ago all you had was oil filled air cleaners,they never posed any problems,unless you didn't know what you were doing when servicing and overfilled them.
  • 2011 SLX CRDI 6 Spd, 2010 Holden Cruze CD Diesel and 2001 Hyundai Accent Coupe


Offline Surferdude

  • Global Moderator
  • *
  • Tyre Guru
    • Posts: 16,524

    • au Australia
      Caloundra, Queensland.
I've used K&N Filters for years never had problem,if you don't know how or when to clean em,don't use em.funny how you have knockers of oil coated filters,funny how no more than 50 years ago all you had was oil filled air cleaners,they never posed any problems,unless you didn't know what you were doing when servicing and overfilled them.
I used K&N filters on my 40 DCOE Webers on my Datsun 1600 rally car. As did most of my contemporaries. Cleaned them after each event and there was never the slightest hint of any dust down the intakes below them.
  • 2020 Kona formerly 2009 i30 Hatch 5sp Manual.


Offline Phil №❶

  • Top Gear
  • *
  • Loco, most of the time!
    • Posts: 21,976

    • au Australia
      Mos Eisley, South Australia
@surferdude

What method did you use to clean them  :question:
  • 2008 SX CRDi Auto White (Lila)[hr]2010 SLX CRDi Auto Red (Ruby)


Offline Surferdude

  • Global Moderator
  • *
  • Tyre Guru
    • Posts: 16,524

    • au Australia
      Caloundra, Queensland.
@surferdude

What method did you use to clean them  :question:
Ah Geez. "Twas a long time ago. :-[
I think I used petrol to clean them then soaked them in the K&N oil and squeezed them to remove excess fluid.
But don't hold me to that.
Friends of mine owned GP Cars in Brisbane and they were the agents for K&N so I'dhave been doing what they suggested.

I use a similar method  to service the foam filter on my (now very old) 4 stroke mower. In fact the original filter died and I cut a new one from a foam block. It's been in there now for about 6 years. Maybe more. It did service on our often dusty yard in Sydney for a couple of years and we've been up here for 5 years.
Except I just use ordinary engine oil to soak it now.
  • 2020 Kona formerly 2009 i30 Hatch 5sp Manual.


Offline Phil №❶

  • Top Gear
  • *
  • Loco, most of the time!
    • Posts: 21,976

    • au Australia
      Mos Eisley, South Australia
Obviously this is not a problem, due to the results that you have / are achieving, but in a paper element the focus is on keeping the dirt on one side of the filter only. They have compressible membranes top and bottom to provide an airtight seal. Now, after the first time the filter is washed in solvent, doesn't that allow the particles to get to the inside of the foam. Assuming the oil does its job I guess it holds these particles regardless of intake vacuum, but they are technically on the wrong side.  :undecided:
  • 2008 SX CRDi Auto White (Lila)[hr]2010 SLX CRDi Auto Red (Ruby)


Offline Surferdude

  • Global Moderator
  • *
  • Tyre Guru
    • Posts: 16,524

    • au Australia
      Caloundra, Queensland.
Obviously this is not a problem, due to the results that you have / are achieving, but in a paper element the focus is on keeping the dirt on one side of the filter only. They have compressible membranes top and bottom to provide an airtight seal. Now, after the first time the filter is washed in solvent, doesn't that allow the particles to get to the inside of the foam. Assuming the oil does its job I guess it holds these particles regardless of intake vacuum, but they are technically on the wrong side.  :undecided:
I used to soak the filter in an ice cream container in petrol, upside down so that any particles in suspension fell to th ebottom of the container. And yes, now you make that point, I was careful to squeeze them a certain way - more or less in reverse to the airflow. But, probably more importantly, I rinsed them several times, until no more dust came out. So I'm sure there was none (of any consequence) left in the foam.
As you say, it worked over several years and the only engine rebuild was from a drowning in a creek. The water DID pass through the filters (I was proably pulling 5,000 rpm when I hit the water :-[)). The result was two bent rods. :whistler:
There was nothing special about the lower half anyway. Just threw in another 1800 block, crank and appendages. :goodjob2:
  • 2020 Kona formerly 2009 i30 Hatch 5sp Manual.


Offline Phil №❶

  • Top Gear
  • *
  • Loco, most of the time!
    • Posts: 21,976

    • au Australia
      Mos Eisley, South Australia
Yikes 5000 rpm, that would have m,ade a decent splash, was it navigator error,,,,, or driver  :mrgreen:
  • 2008 SX CRDi Auto White (Lila)[hr]2010 SLX CRDi Auto Red (Ruby)


Offline Surferdude

  • Global Moderator
  • *
  • Tyre Guru
    • Posts: 16,524

    • au Australia
      Caloundra, Queensland.
Yikes 5000 rpm, that would have m,ade a decent splash, was it navigator error,,,,, or driver  :mrgreen:
Nope. Neither.
5,000 was still a bit short of my change up point (aroud 5,500 - 5,700 in second. Just mis read the depth of the water and it splashed up inside the engine bay and got sucked straight down the (wide open) throats. We'd been through 2 or 3 other water crossings earlier with no problem.
  • 2020 Kona formerly 2009 i30 Hatch 5sp Manual.


Offline Phil №❶

  • Top Gear
  • *
  • Loco, most of the time!
    • Posts: 21,976

    • au Australia
      Mos Eisley, South Australia
Memories, some things you just never forget.  :D
  • 2008 SX CRDi Auto White (Lila)[hr]2010 SLX CRDi Auto Red (Ruby)


Unread Posts

 


SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal