i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: ninjawithsword on July 27, 2016, 16:49:50
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Hey guys.
I made a video a while ago (looking at it, more than 1 year ago) about a noise that sometimes happens on cold starts on my i30 CW, it goes away after 5-6 seconds and also doesn't happen on every startup:
:link: 2010 Hyundai i30 1.6 CRDI Start Noise - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8HzlLuaATA)
With finishing my masters and starting a new job I let this issue pass but it bothers me each time it happens. Since the lady is due for service soon I ask if you guys have any clue to what is causing it?
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Errmm.. sounds just like my current 2014 GD and my former 2008 FD.
Then again, it could be my ears. It sounds fine to me.
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My first thought is missing oil (pressure) at the valve/camshaft mechanism.
Does this only happen when the car have been parked for longer periods than normal..?
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Errmm.. sounds just like my current 2014 GD and my former 2008 FD.
Then again, it could be my ears. It sounds fine to me.
Between seconds 10-15 on the video you can hear a clack-clack-clack that goes away after that.
My first thought is missing oil (pressure) at the valve/camshaft mechanism.
Does this only happen when the car have been parked for longer periods than normal..?
Engine parts missing oil doesn't sound healthy.
I'm not 100% sure but I think that yes, it only happens if the car is parked for 2/3 days.
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Errmm.. sounds just like my current 2014 GD and my former 2008 FD.
Then again, it could be my ears. It sounds fine to me.
Between seconds 10-15 on the video you can hear a clack-clack-clack that goes away after that.
My first thought is missing oil (pressure) at the valve/camshaft mechanism.
Does this only happen when the car have been parked for longer periods than normal..?
Engine parts missing oil doesn't sound healthy.
I'm not 100% sure but I think that yes, it only happens if the car is parked for 2/3 days.
Not unusual, but as you soon will have it serviced it might change if better oil is used. Make sure the dealer use a good oil of a respected brand.
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Not unusual, but as you soon will have it serviced it might change if better oil is used. Make sure the dealer use a good oil of a respected brand.
Thanks, since for the 2nd time it will be at a smaller independent shop instead of the dealer I will ensure that good motor oil is used, the oil spec should be the one recommend on the manual (0w30 I think) right?
The dealer used the oil spec recommended by the manual but didn't use the brand recommended by Hyundai but instead a local brand (still a big reputable brand).
I have read that the oil filter should be OEM because it retains pressure after the engine shuts off and thus prevents oil starvation on startup, is it like so?
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Not unusual, but as you soon will have it serviced it might change if better oil is used. Make sure the dealer use a good oil of a respected brand.
Thanks, since for the 2nd time it will be at a smaller independent shop instead of the dealer I will ensure that good motor oil is used, the oil spec should be the one recommend on the manual (0w30 I think) right?
The dealer used the oil spec recommended by the manual but didn't use the brand recommended by Hyundai but instead a local brand (still a big reputable brand).
I have read that the oil filter should be OEM because it retains pressure after the engine shuts off and thus prevents oil starvation on startup, is it like so?
0W30 is ok, but more important is the SAE spec requiring B4 (I think it is) if not equipped with DPF and C3 if equipped with DPF.
As the oil filter is just a paper cartridge there is, to my best knowledge, no valves in the filter element, so from that point of view there should be no difference if using a non OEM filter, but you could always play it safe and buy the Hyundai filter... :mrgreen:
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0W30 is ok, but more important is the SAE spec requiring B4 (I think it is) if not equipped with DPF and C3 if equipped with DPF.
Thanks, It has DPF, I will check.
As the oil filter is just a paper cartridge there is, to my best knowledge, no valves in the filter element, so from that point of view there should be no difference if using a non OEM filter, but you could always play it safe and buy the Hyundai filter... :mrgreen:
Yeah you are right, silly me, it doesn't use the old canister style oil filter. :mrgreen:
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This sound is most likley injectors starving fuel.
Bleed fuel system and this sound will dissapear.
May i ask why 0w30 oil in Portugal?????
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This sound is most likley injectors starving fuel.
Bleed fuel system and this sound will dissapear.
May i ask why 0w30 oil in Portugal?????
The bleed is best done by a mechanic, not something that I can do at home right? I don't have many tools (especially not something like a bleeding kit)
:link: How to bleed or prime a Diesel fuel system? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXX0dW6U5YY)
0w30 I think is what the manual recommends, maybe it is 5w30? But definitely not very cold around here, maybe minimum of -1/-2ºC on the coldest days of winter :mrgreen:
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Yes 5w30 5w40 or even 10w30 C3(DPF) oil will be adequate for your climate.
About bleeding fuel system. Yes it can be done without any special tools.
Your car have priming/bleeding pump integrated in fuel filter housing.
Procedure for bleeding fuel system:
Check all connections(fuel lines) for cracks or looseness.
Check fuel pump for leaks, injector pipes and small injector return pipes for cracks.
Disconnect fuel line that connects fuel filter and fuel pump at fuel filter.
Connect clear hose to fuel filter outlet pipe and start pumping diesel to some bottle or jar.
Fuel filter is bled when no bubbles coming from clear pipe(about 40 times when new filter is installed).
Connect fuel line back and pump about 40-60 time to clear air from disconnected fuel line back to tank.
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Yes 5w30 5w40 or even 10w30 C3(DPF) oil will be adequate for your climate.
Yeah ok, I will check the previous services invoices to make sure which oil was used.
About bleeding fuel system. Yes it can be done without any special tools.
Your car have priming/bleeding pump integrated in fuel filter housing.
Procedure for bleeding fuel system:
Check all connections(fuel lines) for cracks or looseness.
Check fuel pump for leaks, injector pipes and small injector return pipes for cracks.
Disconnect fuel line that connects fuel filter and fuel pump at fuel filter.
Connect clear hose to fuel filter outlet pipe and start pumping diesel to some bottle or jar.
Fuel filter is bled when no bubbles coming from clear pipe(about 40 times when new filter is installed).
Connect fuel line back and pump about 40-60 time to clear air from disconnected fuel line back to tank.
Thank you very much, I will try this and report back. :goodjob2:
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I think that ticking in the video comes from hydraulic valve lifters (or just one of them). Usually the oil inside them should stay in when the engine is not running. Dirty oil may cause the lifter not to adjust properly, causing the oil to leak out of it and even getting stuck. In milder cases it will be refilled by oil in few seconds after starting the engine (and quit ticking by then), but in severe cases it may be stubborn to continue ticking, no matter if the engine is cold or hot.
The easiest trick to try fixing it is to change the engine oil. If it didn't help, you may need to replace the lifter, and in that case it may be difficult to find out which one of those 16 lifters is the guilty one.