Rear Window and rearview mirror Defroster no work?!?

Mulag · **November 16, 2013, 17:22:41**

Due to the fact that winter is coming just the other day I tried to defrost rear windshields. When I pressed the button for defrost, indicator light didn't turn on. Consequently glass mirrors and rear windshields are not defrosted. I checked all the fuses and blue relays in the engine compartment. It's all OK to me. But I don't no exactly witch fuse I need to looked.

This is HEATER A/C CONTROL UNIT from back side. Any chance that this is problem?

Car is i30 2008 year.

Thank you for help me

Asterix · **Reply #1: November 16, 2013, 17:50:32**

Hi

Just need to make sure I know your problem.

The one you tried to use, was the electric heated outside mirrors and rear window..

Mulag · **Reply #2: November 16, 2013, 18:07:42**

Yes, you understood my problem. The electric heated outside mirrors and rear window is turning on the same button. When I pressed that button for defrost, indicator light didn't turn on and heating isn't working.

Asterix · **Reply #3: November 16, 2013, 18:41:00**

The fuses located at the drivers door in the dashboard should contain a 10 Amp fuse called HTD MIRR.

On the cover you should be able to locate the fuse.

Mulag · **Reply #4: November 16, 2013, 18:53:38**

OK, check again this fuse and it's is OK. But fuse don't have voltage on both side. So, problem is somewhere before fuse.

Shambles · **Reply #5: November 16, 2013, 19:16:36**

You do have the ignition switched on... ?

Mulag · **Reply #6: November 16, 2013, 19:20:05**

Of course I do.

Asterix · **Reply #7: November 16, 2013, 19:33:03**

If you have voltage on 1 side of the fuse but not the other side, then the fuse is not ok.

Try to take another 10 Amp fuse and insert. There's a 10 Amp fuse called RR FOG, that's for the fog lights, should be ok to use that one.

eye30 · **Reply #8: November 16, 2013, 19:37:40**

I know you probably check but if the switch is on but no light do the mirrors and or rear window heat up?
I.e. warm when you put your hand on the glass.

Mulag · **Reply #9: November 16, 2013, 19:37:54**

How I say, fuse don't have voltage on left and right side. I tried with another and it's same think.

Shambles · **Reply #10: November 16, 2013, 19:40:29**

Here are the circuit/plug diagrams:

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Mulag · **Reply #11: November 16, 2013, 19:43:16**

Quote from: eye30 on November 16, 2013, 19:37:40

I know you probably check but if the switch is on but no light do the mirrors and or rear window heat up?
I.e. warm when you put your hand on the glass.

I first noticed it when I was driving. Second time, when the windows were fogged and line heaters have not appeared.

Asterix · **Reply #12: November 16, 2013, 19:44:10**

Quote from: Mulag on November 16, 2013, 19:37:54

How I say, fuse don't have voltage on left and right side. I tried with another and it's same think.

Sorry, I should read carefully before writing..

Shambles · **Reply #13: November 16, 2013, 19:47:56**

Note (from my diagram) that a 40A fusible link and a relay precede the 10A fuse.

Phil №❶ · **Reply #14: November 16, 2013, 20:15:16**

Asterix · **Reply #15: November 16, 2013, 20:19:08**

If you can make this connection, the red line (pull out relay, and insert a cable) then you should be able to rule out missing power supply.

Mulag · **Reply #16: November 17, 2013, 18:38:22**

Now I need help again.
partially I discovered the problem.
In the picture I marked a red line where I stabbed examiner in mo4-C connector pin 10, and I can heard the relay is switched on, the indicator light flashes. Which means that now I directly given electric to heaters and they work but the button does not respond to turning on and off.

I have not found relay, but when I gave direct current, I touched him in a box with a fuse on the driver's side.

Where do you think the problem is because I do not know what next to do.

my car 12v EXAMINER current

eye30 · **Reply #17: November 17, 2013, 18:43:40**

Could it be that the switch is the fault?

Mulag · **Reply #18: November 17, 2013, 18:50:58**

And I'm afraid this is the problem.
how can I check the switch?

Mulag · **Reply #19: November 17, 2013, 18:54:46**

bridge pin 26 and 10 with wire?

Shambles · **Reply #20: November 17, 2013, 18:59:26**

Quote from: Mulag

bridge pin 26 and 10 with wire?

That's what I'd do (or bridge 20+3 if manual)

Mulag · **Reply #21: November 17, 2013, 19:52:47**

Bridge isn't working. So switch is OK.

What should I do next?

Mulag · **Reply #22: November 17, 2013, 23:00:28**

I stabbed examiner in adapter M04-A pin 13 and is not working.
I check adapter M04-C pin 20 and don/t have voltage.

There is 4 charging system. Which is my I don't no.

Phil №❶ · **Reply #23: November 18, 2013, 01:38:36**

When you connected to pin 10 with your "stabber" you made an electrical path through the stabber globe to earth on the body of the car. This is what the switch does, when it is working. The relay was energized and the demisters were probably working. The best way to check the switch is to use a multimeter set to test continuity, this will give a reading when the switch contacts touch (on) and no reading when (off) is selected. Remove any wires plugged into the switch before testing. If you get a reading when on and none when off, then the switch is operating normally.

Check the plugs to see if any pins are bent or not contacting and if all ok, replace them into the switch.

See how you go with that.

Mulag · **Reply #24: November 18, 2013, 02:07:30**

Switch is OK
I Connect directly with wire pin 10 , 26 on M05-A connector and is not working.

Phil №❶ · **Reply #25: November 18, 2013, 03:44:22**

If you have a look at the diagram supplied by Shambles, you will see references to Auto and Manual. I assume they are referring to the auto temperature control, not fitted to your car and the manual control. If your control is manual (it has 3 speeds for fan on a rotating dial), then the connection should be 12 to 26. Do you agree.

eye30 · **Reply #26: November 18, 2013, 08:03:06**

I take it it is just out of warranty.

Do you have a good relationship with your dealer?

If so why not have a chat to see what they suggest and may be they can still do it under warranty due to "REASONABLE LIFE" of whatever component has failed.

Mulag · **Reply #27: November 18, 2013, 14:01:54**

Quote from: Phil №❶ on November 18, 2013, 03:44:22

If you have a look at the diagram supplied by Shambles, you will see references to Auto and Manual. I assume they are referring to the auto temperature control, not fitted to your car and the manual control. If your control is manual (it has 3 speeds for fan on a rotating dial), then the connection should be 12 to 26. Do you agree.

I have auto A/C, 8 fan speed.
Checked switch with multimeter and it is OK.

Quote from: eye30 on November 18, 2013, 08:03:06

I take it it is just out of warranty.

Do you have a good relationship with your dealer?

If so why not have a chat to see what they suggest and may be they can still do it under warranty due to "REASONABLE LIFE" of whatever component has failed.

I dont have warranty anymore.
I ask dealer,service for suggest and tell me that never heard for this problem. They don?t know what could be, and I must live car for 2-5 days.

Mulag · **Reply #28: November 18, 2013, 16:43:30**

When I put together all the parts and press the button it's start to functioning. I don't know what was the issue but now is working

Asterix · **Reply #29: November 18, 2013, 16:58:43**

Just hate when that happens. What was wrong.

Good for you, Mulag, you have propably saved a lot of money..