i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: Shrek73 on May 02, 2020, 02:01:00
-
Hi all new to this forum but in desperate need for some help. My Brother in-laws I30 has had some issues to say the least but short version is ECU, BCM have been replaced everything has been programmed together but I have no power to the antenna coil. I have this little box left over from the kit that they say is under the dash but I can’t find it. Does anyone have any ideas where this is and what actually supplies power to the antenna coil.
(https://i.ibb.co/L1bDbSN/C2680696-69-CB-4-A2-E-B5-E2-82213-E40-F0-DC.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/mq9MsNM/4-C9-D0-B8-E-840-E-4-A2-A-AEEA-290-B90-AB1-A06.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
-
you will find it challenging to reach, but it is directly at the top of the metal structure that the dash and column mounts to. Effectively behind the cluster but you won't reach it from there.
Dropping the coulmn may help or a contortionist inverted in the foot whell, and flashlight, you may spot it. How sure are you th eissues were the ECU?
The BCM only comes into play for the remote.
The unit you hold is SMARTRA, or the immobiliser unit. Also with ECU swap you should reload the injector codes into the ECU. Won't affect it running, may affect it running optimally
-
likely LHD but you get a good idea from this image
(https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/7097642000_1354474399.gif)
-
Hi ECU was shot had no main relay pulling in unless you put a test light on the fuse then it chatted it’s arse off and test light was dull unplug the ECU and it went away. Also on turning the key had no check engine light and no car with key in it on dash. Once ECU was replaced all checked out ok apart from this issue with no power to the antenna coil. Had a Auto locksmith program everything and he managed to change the SMARTRA to sync with new ECU and BCM all appeared to work ok but still nothing for the immobiliser to recognise the key. With no power to the coil. Will go hunting now to replace SMARTRA and see what happens from there.
-
Ok so that was the best experience of my life who would put something there like that. Would have been worth it if it fixed it still no power at the antenna coil. Open to any and all suggestions if you have any but huge thanks for at least getting that part out the way.
-
you should check recent threads, guy in REUNION had exact same fault in 1.4 petrol, opened ECU with heat gun, reapaired blown tracks and fixed.
-
:link: electrical wiring diagram (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=58086.0)
-
I wonder about that inj fuse 15A, sounds like no power to smartra,
-
Ok so that was the best experience of my life who would put something there like that. Would have been worth it if it fixed it still no power at the antenna coil. Open to any and all suggestions if you have any but huge thanks for at least getting that part out the way.
Its to stop incompetent car thieves, thats why its up there.
you should check recent threads, guy in REUNION had exact same fault in 1.4 petrol, opened ECU with heat gun, reapaired blown tracks and fixed.
Wait up mate :disapp: that guy has fixed nothing. The fault ( whatever component fried the print board) still exists.
The wiring diagram will be of assistance if @Shrek73 can work with it.
Good luck, my guess, given this mass component change :undecided: is that the original fault still exists.
-
I have no power either side of these three fuses interesting that one says start are these fuse boxes known to fail at all or can anyone tell me where this section gets its supply from as I have opened it up and everything looks ok nothing burnt or track lifted.
(https://i.ibb.co/pQScXTg/94995584-CFC1-4832-B935-32-BD3-C4-EBA80.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
-
I don't have my info with me, I'd look in the engine bay, fusible links, maybe 30A ? guessing
-
could be ECU 30A fusible? is the main relay functional?
-
Everything else is ok ECU and main relay seem to operate ok except I can’t start the car. I have been working on this for ages and can’t seem to get to the bottom.
-
At the moment Im without a cct. Just looked at above cct and dont think it will help you here. However the start fuse ( 10A) protects Ignition switch lock, ICM relay, transaxle range switch, E/R junction box (start relay)
My crystal ball says :whistler: :head_butt: that start fuse should be hot at all times; if not, hot when ign switch is on. Does the start relay pull in? Suspect it is going to the start relay coil. One contact side of the start relay will be always hot.
Sorry the workshop data I have just has rote style 'do this and that' for mechanics. I dont have an FD here at the moment.
Edit
@Shrek73 Just Noted that ignition switch supplies B+ to pin K2 ( my cct) of ECU. no 12+ at fuse = fault
-
I dont have an FD here at the moment.
:crazy1: :faint: :foottap: :crazy3: :Rubbish:
-
Those fuses, may be a red herring.
Start fuse 10a will only have power in the "START" posiition of the ignition barrel.
IGN2 Fusible link 40A is HOT all times to the ignition switch
Could be worth checking the junction box connectors if they have been disturbed
Power goes in at I/P-A pin 8, through the 10A fuse to the ICM relay box, burglar alarm relay controlled earth by BCM on other side.
I'd say if the car is armed no earth appears
Normal would be earthed, this then closes contacts, sends 12v to range switch, if in correct starting postions, will send power to start relay,
energises solenoid, starter rotates engine
-
(https://i.ibb.co/7zzZ5mr/start-cct.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TTT7S3P)
-
At the moment Im without a cct. Just looked at above cct and dont think it will help you here. However the start fuse ( 10A) protects Ignition switch lock, ICM relay, transaxle range switch, E/R junction box (start relay)
My crystal ball says :whistler: :head_butt: that start fuse should be hot at all times; if not, hot when ign switch is on. Does the start relay pull in? Suspect it is going to the start relay coil. One contact side of the start relay will be always hot.
Sorry the workshop data I have just has rote style 'do this and that' for mechanics. I dont have an FD here at the moment.
Edit
@Shrek73 Just Noted that ignition switch supplies B+ to pin K2 ( my cct) of ECU. no 12+ at fuse = fault
I guess this is a short a CCT then :rofl:
-
Start relay comes energises on crank so that works but those 3 fuses stay dead no matter what position the key is in. can’t tell if there is power going through the contacts though but relay is energising
-
A/CON SW FUSE 10A
Is this AUTO climate control or the manual AC?
I don't think it's related to your issues
-
Start relay comes energises on crank so that works but those 3 fuses stay dead no matter what position the key is in. can’t tell if there is power going through the contacts though but relay is energising
Should ask, AUTO or Manual
-
(https://i.ibb.co/grd5fJ7/immo.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2FSDCd6)
-
Any codes logged? P1691?
-
(https://i.ibb.co/3Whk5QB/antenna-cct.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4MNJw3P)
-
(https://i.ibb.co/F5g2sTG/immo-ind.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Htn6N8m)
-
When you check power at antenna, is load removed and at what point , sequence is it measured
-
(https://i.ibb.co/8BGVWGJ/antenna-check-1.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Voltage check
(https://i.ibb.co/CBSk4Qz/antenna-check-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1Z4DBTL)
-
(https://i.ibb.co/yYrR7gk/antenna-check-pcm.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NmM3bWN)
-
ground checks
(https://i.ibb.co/NrH4wTt/antenna-check-gnd-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m0MxQNb)
(https://i.ibb.co/5FfXF6S/antenna-check-gnd-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Kw3cwXf)
-
With the antenna coil removed, the coil resistance is 8.5ohms
-
Just another question, are you using a multimeter for these checks?
-
The car is Auto. The Auto locksmith had a machine that detected a mag field when the ignition was turned on. This car does not produce one and even with the antenna coil unplugged I have no voltage at the plug everything that is in this circuit has been replaced including the coil. I have no immobiliser light at all it hasn’t come on once since the car stopped starting. I don’t know about any codes when the auto locksmith plugged in his diagnosis tool he said there were no codes. Is there a way I can check without a OBD tool
-
Multimeter and a test light for checking voltage at the plugs and fuses. I would assume it won’t be a full 12v maybe 5 volts but I have the range set low as well as high so I should get something to register I also have a max hold function that will detect a voltage spike
-
The car is Auto. The Auto locksmith had a machine that detected a mag field when the ignition was turned on. This car does not produce one and even with the antenna coil unplugged I have no voltage at the plug everything that is in this circuit has been replaced including the coil. I have no immobiliser light at all it hasn’t come on once since the car stopped starting. I don’t know about any codes when the auto locksmith plugged in his diagnosis tool he said there were no codes. Is there a way I can check without a OBD tool
Information not previous obvious, how I'm reading this saga.
" Once ECU was replaced all checked out ok apart from this issue with no power to the antenna coil"
I was working with IMMO light, no antenna power, not that I fully understand what's going on here
I would follow the fault finding steps I listed and report the results on each
-
I presume the Room LP 15a fuse has been checked? Even swap it if you have a spare
-
The car is Auto. The Auto locksmith had a machine that detected a mag field when the ignition was turned on. This car does not produce one and even with the antenna coil unplugged I have no voltage at the plug everything that is in this circuit has been replaced including the coil. I have no immobiliser light at all it hasn’t come on once since the car stopped starting. I don’t know about any codes when the auto locksmith plugged in his diagnosis tool he said there were no codes. Is there a way I can check without a OBD tool
Information not previous obvious, how I'm reading this saga.
" Once ECU was replaced all checked out ok apart from this issue with no power to the antenna coil"
I was working with IMMO light, no antenna power, not that I fully understand what's going on here
I would follow the fault finding steps I listed and report the results on each
:wss: