[ghines]

Hi Everyone,

I was at another forum and Shambles suggested I take a look here, so here I am.

I've had my new i30 2.0L SR Auto for about 3 weeks now and have done about 3500kms and I'm very pleased with it.  The computer kms to empty reading is a bit different from other cars I've owned in that it always seems to show about 530 kms when you fill up the tank regardless of what your FC is before you fill up.  From what I can understand this is normal.  Yes/No?

I travel up and down the F3 in NSW between Hornsby and Newcastle and do 99% of my kms on the F3.  My FC is between 7.8 - 8.0L/100kms which I thought was very high, especially since Hyundai say 6.1 Extra ( I assume this means highway) and 7.6 combined.  I would have thought I would have been somewhere between the two, or am I expecting too much?

Now for a little story:-

For the last couple of weeks the "ESP OFF" light has been coming on when your driving and the only way to turn it OFF was to turn the engine OFF.  Took it to the dealer who could not find the cause.  So I started thinking what might be the cause.  And than it hit me, about two weeks ago I changed the tail and stop light globes to LED replacements.  So I swapped the stop globes back to the filament globes and the ESP OFF light no longer comes ON.  Why??  I can understand a blown globe warning light, if there was one, but not the ESP OFF light.  Anyone have any ideas?

Anyhow, luv the forum and you will be hearing from me more I'm sure.

All the best,

Greg

I had my ESP light come on whilst driving with the only way to turn it of was like you said, turning the engine off. When I took the car in for its service they said they found a broken connection to the ESP unit and fixed it. Well I've had it come on once or twice since then so I suspect that maybe something is funny in the ESP unit itself or the cable loom has an issue. As the next service is not for a while I'm not going to worry about it until I have to take it back.

[Dazzler]

Hi Greg,

Welcome to the club... I don't have any problem with my ESP light... because I was too tight to pay 990 extra as an option in march last year when I got my car...

Hope you get to the bottom of the problem and glad you like your car and the forum..

[eye30]

Welcome ghines aka Greg

[MRH130]

Hi Greg, welcome to the club!

The distance to empty function in the trip computer is indeed affected by the actual consumption of the vehicle, although not immediately. For instance, if you have unusually high l/100km on one tank, the trip computer will go to the normal level (in your case 530km) when you fill up, and then adjust as you go through that tank. When you fill up the next time, you should find that the DTE is lower than the previous tank. The same is true if you get especially good consumption on one tank, it'll show up in the DTE a tank or two later. It's set to not overadjust itself, which is good really if you are going to rely on the trip computer to tell you how far you can go in the outback for instance...

In terms of your fuel consumption, Hyundais don't give their best economy until they are well and truly run in, and that can take anywhere up to 40000km. You will also find that cruising at 110 or 120km/h will use a LOT more fuel than cruising at 80/90. I'm not totally surprised that you are getting that sort of consumption out of a brand new automatic. My manual 2009 model SR  (35000km old now) gets between 6.4 when stroked along gently and 8.5-9.0 if driven mainly in town and when I sink the slipper. 

It might be worth having a look at the threads on fuel consumption too, I find that the fuel I use makes a difference.

As far as your ESP OFF light coming on is concerned, it's possible (though I would have thought it a bit unlikely) that the different properties of the LED tail lights confuse the controller. The ESP watches everything you do, from steering angle to the rotation of each wheel, to the application of brake and throttle. If it thinks something is wrong with one of it's signals it will disable itself rather than interfering with the car in a way that could cause a problem for the driver. Keep driving it without the lights installed and then if the car doesn't fault again try putting them back in. If the fault recurs, you have your answer!

The fact that the fault clears after you cycle the ignition suggests to me that the problem is definitely transient. Cycling the ignition causes the system to do a self-check, and if it finds no problem it will continue until it detects the fault again. The trick is to either work out what driver inputs are setting it off, or get the car to the dealer with the light still on (i.e. have the vehicle put on the diagnostic machine BEFORE you turn the key off and let it clear itself).

If you can work out what sets it off, you will have a better idea of what is causing it and you may be able to either replicate the fault for the dealer or tell them how to replicate it. In the interim, keep the original lights in - you may have fixed it yourself!

Again, welcome to the club and sorry for the long message! 

Cheers,

Michael

[Hemmi]

Hi Greg and welcome

[bumpkin]

Hi Greg and welcome, the only time the ESP light has appeared in mine (standard fit in the UK Dazz, did we mention that )
was when I was trying to confuse the system in the snow

[bulldog180]

welcome greg

(standard fit in the UK Dazz, did we mention that )

Dare i say we get a lot as standard over here bumpkin

[bumpkin]

Yeah, have you noticed my signature

[bulldog180]

Yeah, have you noticed my signature

Ah yes i think that says it all

[ghines]

Thanks everyone for the big welcome.  And Michael, thanks for the great explanation it's greatly appreciated.

Greg

[G14Classified101]

Hey mate, welcome. I average about 7.8-8.1 driving to town n back, N i have a very heavy foot, but when i jump on the F3 when i head toward newy, i reset my l/100km and i average between 5.8-6.5 cruise control at 110-115 ish. Just give her some time to wear in, n loosen up.