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i30 chiptuning

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Offline tzwientjuh

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I'm planning to get my i30 chiptuned.

For less than 500€ I can get it chiptuned.
For a 1.4 petrol
Normal hp: 109hp
Chiptuned: 124hp

Someone got experience with this?


Offline eye30

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What about warranty??????
  • 1.4 Petrol Active I'm no expert, so please correct me if


Offline tzwientjuh

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Well, I was thinking about that.

I have 2 options:
1) I'll ask my dealer if it will void my warrenty. If no, It will be chiptuned. If yes and i still do it, they will look if I have it done or not

2) Say nothing. Chiptuning will only change the ECU of the car. No one can see if I have done it or not. Only a diagnose can see that. But if I say nothing, why should they diagonse my car?

It's risky I know ... I'll probaly say ' So what, I'll do it '


Offline eye30

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I read on another posting that you can get a "box" to clip on.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=202&p=1292&hilit=tuning#p1292

Then when you go to dealers you unclip and hey presto the car reverts to original state.

Put tuning in search and you'll get a few postings to read.
  • 1.4 Petrol Active I'm no expert, so please correct me if


Offline tzwientjuh

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I know everything about chiptuning. But the site you send is for diesel not petrol. I'm driving a petrol i30.

As for that clip on box ... There are several ways to chiptune your car

A power box, a small box between the engine and the ECU. This box will override the ECU's data. It's cheaper but sometimes the box will send wrong data and makes the car louder or the car will get more smoke.

Another way is to reprogram the ECU. They take the original program, change some numbers with a computer, reprogram the chip and test. This is repeated several times to get the best result. It has no extra wires and so on and is more expensive but it's better than a power box

Why get chiptuned?
More horsepower (5 to 10% on normal engines, up to 30% with turbo)
Better fueleconemy
Does not damage your car (except a bad power box)
The car runs more smoother

Why don't they already chiptuned the car in the factory?
All countries have different standards. So they make them all suitable for all countries.


Offline echocae

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lol better economy?

More Horsepower = More petrol use


Offline CHB

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Apparently it gets tuned to be more fuel efficient so it is a possibility that it is more economical.

I was interested in this as well but its $1600 here in AUS roughly and it voids warranty :(


Offline Lakes

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All that is possible, more HP ( It is not hard to tune more Horsepower from a stock EFI petrol all motor, as they come just lean them out in the AFR ) so as you have leaner out the Air Fuel Ratio to gain some horsepower up higher in the rev's, when you drive moderately you will gain economy. and if it is done right you should gain some TQ. but the HP gain claim for a stock 1.4 (86 cubic inch) naturally aspirated motor is a bit on the happy side. you could also play with the timing to make some gains too. but what you are doing is fine tuning the motor for all out HP like you would do for racing. the factory set them on the safe side. as if the weather changes, or if you get bad fuel, or if the stock air sensor stops working, and you are driving to the limits for too long you could do damage.  also the people that make these claims play around with dyno's to get them to show greater gains than they really get, like you can change the dyno's weather settings, and other things and see a gain in HP, normally you put a car or bike on a dyno and give them a power run, then wait and do another power run and you will see a gain in power with out doing anything, so normally i like to have three power runs to get a base HP & TQ reading, then start tuning. but if i was useing a dyno to sell a product i could do a number of things to get a very happy HP reading. the thing is you would not know unless you understood dyno's and how they work and have access to all the weather settings and so on from the dyno run they used.
also i would imagine the factory HP rating would be from the flywheel, where as most dyno testing aftermarket would use the rear wheel or in this case the front wheel but between the flywheel and the driving wheel there is a loss. some dyno's that test driven wheel HP have setting to convert to flywheel HP but it's fantasy. you have to remove the motor from the car and put it on an engine dyno to get flywheel HP. too much trouble, mostly only done for race motors.
you could put the hard word on the seller and say you are going to do speed trials as you can use  speed tests to check you HP if you know the total weight of the car and with fuel and oil and driver in it. there is a formula to test this. but i just go to the high tech drag strip we have here in Sydney check trap speeds, if i tune more HP my trap speed shows up faster but elapsed time could be slower does not always hep how quick you get there but it always shows a faster speed if you get a HP gain. they call the drag strip the short black dyno, they call the salt lake in South Australia the Long White Dyno. these two dyno's never lie.
sorry for this great novel i just like to tell the truth and try to help others get gain's if they want them but don't like seeing people riped off.
Also what i have leant over the years from racing  is it is TQ ( torque ) that you feel more, hp will give you higher speeds but it is Torque that thrusts you forward not HP, when you feel your car excellerate it's the TQ doing that.
Cheers and good luck.


Offline tzwientjuh

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Wow, nice reply. It made me think ...

But I'm still going to do it.  ;)


Offline Thumper

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Adding to the knowledgeable post by lakes.  8-)


Offline tzwientjuh

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Thumper is right ... First improve intake and exhaust. And so on ... Then the last thing is the chiptuning part. I think I'll first get a new exhaust. But a sports exhaust is a bit expensive. How much do you think it will cost? exhaust + placement


Offline Lakes

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Quote from: "tzwientjuh"
Thumper is right ... First improve intake and exhaust. And so on ... Then the last thing is the chiptuning part. I think I'll first get a new exhaust. But a sports exhaust is a bit expensive. How much do you think it will cost? exhaust + placement

Not sure of cost, as we are in a different country and we just get custom made systems, as they always fit better if made on the car.
if i was on a limited budget i would do extractors first as more gain from a well designed set of extractors. with the rest of the system you get more noise but very  little gain with a petrol street car, but look at the stock system were it comes from the head to the collector to start the system, sometimes they look ok. but Try Why extractors work well on street. with that set up they have two pipes going into one , like you have four cylinders so two of the cylinders pipes go into one collector then the other two cylinders pipes go into another collector, then you have two pipes and they continue down and go into another collector, this system works best over a wider rev range, with the 4 into one collector style you can have clearance issues, and they only work well at higher revs.
cheers
ps i have watched the different systems tested on my friends engine dyno, we tested stock cast iron headers with free flowing system on petrol EFI with only limited gain then put extractors on a stock system and got a much better gain and was quiet.


Offline tzwientjuh

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An extractor ... Is that where the exhaust fumes go to the exhaust pipe and muffler? From engine(4) to one pipe?


Offline Lakes

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Quote from: "tzwientjuh"
An extractor ... Is that where the exhaust fumes go to the exhaust pipe and muffler? From engine(4) to one pipe?

Extractor's is a term we use, to describe light weight tube headers. you know were your head is? ( the head on the motors block  :D  ) well the part that is made of cast iron that bolts to your head and then it has the exhast system bolted to it, well the cast iron part that has four ports in it and takes the exhast to the single or sometimes dual pipes, that cast iron part is removed and replaced with light weight tube extractors, if you do this it is always a good idea to keep the factory heat shields have them fitted to the extractors as a lot of heat comes off the pipes and can melt plastic fittings.
good luck m8
hope this is easy to understand.


Offline eye30

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On a UK TV programme last night they showed the powerbox.
I didn't catch it all but the jist was as well as boosting power if you set it right it could "SAVE" on fuel as the engine was running at its optimum.
PS for diesel only
  • 1.4 Petrol Active I'm no expert, so please correct me if


Offline tzwientjuh

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Quote from: "Lakes"
Extractor's is a term we use, to describe light weight tube headers. you know were your head is? ( the head on the motors block  :D  ) well the part that is made of cast iron that bolts to your head and then it has the exhast system bolted to it, well the cast iron part that has four ports in it and takes the exhast to the single or sometimes dual pipes, that cast iron part is removed and replaced with light weight tube extractors, if you do this it is always a good idea to keep the factory heat shields have them fitted to the extractors as a lot of heat comes off the pipes and can melt plastic fittings.
good luck m8
hope this is easy to understand.

Why use a light weight version? Does it improve a lot of performance than a normal one?
I know it's lighter => better acceleration. But more hp?


Offline Martin

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Some Poweboxes are ok
Most of them simply trick the air flow meter to try and increase fuel delivery in the hope they make more power. Nothing compares to a proper engine management tune and actually modifying the Bosch code in the factory processor  :geek:


Offline I30Racer

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Chiptuning on a petrol is not profitable.

Pay 500 $ for 15HP is to much. :wink:

Quote
Why get chiptuned?
1.More horsepower (5 to 10% on normal engines, up to 30% with turbo)
2.Better fueleconemy
3.Does not damage your car (except a bad power box)
4.The car runs more smoother

1. Yes that´s okay but the I30 Petrol haven´t an Turbo standart!
2. More Power,more Fuel!Always!
3. Without Turbo and only 15HP Increase,sure!
4. You will surely not feel a great difference.


Offline tzwientjuh

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Chiptuning on a petrol is not profitable.

Pay 500 $ for 15HP is to much. :wink:

Quote
Why get chiptuned?
1.More horsepower (5 to 10% on normal engines, up to 30% with turbo)
2.Better fueleconemy
3.Does not damage your car (except a bad power box)
4.The car runs more smoother

1. Yes that's okay but the I30 Petrol haven't an Turbo standart!
2. More Power,more Fuel!Always!
3. Without Turbo and only 15HP Increase,sure!
4. You will surely not feel a great difference.
It's 365€ to get my car done

1. The car will run better on lower rpms. Petrol doesn't always need a turbo. Diesel for instance does need one for the higher rpms.
2. Not true friend, the cars ECU are designed to run in every country. In some country's the fuel isn't good quality. And in some the fuel is better. For instance Belgium, where I live, has very good quality petrol. So they can change the ECU to let the motor run more efficiently. And so using less petrol. And because the chiptuning gives the car more power at the lower rpms, people can drive more economically.
3. The car will run better and use the petrol more efficiently due to the chiptuning. So why should there be damage.
4. It's not about the feeling! I just want to drive economical. And with a sportsfilter and exhaust, then you'll feel the difference. And I'm planning to get those.

What are you gonna say now? :p


Offline I30Racer

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Quote
And because the chiptuning gives the car more power at the lower rpms, people can drive more economically.

Haha :lol:When you´re get more Power,you will drive more economically?You will be the first?! :wink: 

It should not damage your engine,that´s right!Because the Power Increase is to little!

That´s my opinion about Chiptuning on petrol but everbody make like his believe.:-)


Quote
For instance Belgium, where I live, has very good quality petrol.

We in Luxembourg too! :wink:


Quote
And with a sportsfilter and exhaust

A Sportfilter do NOT increase the Power of a Car,every Expert know this!In the worst case ,you can reach a Reduction of them.
And an Exhaust will ONLY increase Power when ALL the components will be replaced!And don´t forget,it must be Stainless Steel (also inside) in min. 2 inch Size! :wink:


Offline tzwientjuh

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Oh whatever  :P I'll do it anyways. And if I don't like it. I can always change it back.


Offline I30Racer

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Quote
Oh whatever   I'll do it anyways. And if I don't like it. I can always change it back.

That´s okay. :D :wink:

Note,I haven´t a problem with you..i just wanted to explain my opinion. :rolleyes:

Friends? :razz:


Offline tzwientjuh

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Quote
Oh whatever   I'll do it anyways. And if I don't like it. I can always change it back.

That´s okay. :D :wink:

Note,I haven´t a problem with you..i just wanted to explain my opinion. :rolleyes:

Friends? :razz:
Ok, still friends then  :rolleyes: :wink:

Or like they say in french. Mon ami  :lol:


Offline Shambles

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Get a room you two :lol:
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Offline tzwientjuh

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Offline 2i30s

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11 months  I've been looking for a tuning box or chip,still cant find one for a 2.0 petrol.   :mad: :evil:
  • 2009 manual sx hatch and 2009 automatic sx cw. both 2.0 petrol.


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Offline Mike SX

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Offline accim

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Try it, I know many people are wondering weather to tune the petrol non-turbo car, because it doesn't have as big effect as it has on turbo cars. You could then explain the difference. It should go at least a bit more "user friendly".

I say that, because the petrol engines (at least 1.4 engine) in i30's (and Ceed's of course) have a problem that they reach the max. horsepower - 109 hp at high revs (@ 6,200 rpm !!!) and max torque at 4,200 rpm. I know few people, that decided not to buy Ceed/i30, because of that. The fact, that it reaches max hp/torque so late (at such rpm's) means that you have to rev it more - which means less comfortable ride, louder engine (because you have to drive above 4,000 rpms all the time, if you want to "get somewhere") and most of all, higher fuel consumption.

I say, go for it. Do you maybe have an info how much hp/torque should the car have, and most important at which rev's ? I believe that's the most important thing here. I've also driven my uncle's Ceed few times and I think it would be much more, as I've said, "user-friendly" if the hp and torque were a bit "fixed".


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