i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: Misha on April 28, 2019, 00:44:52
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So it looks like I’m in need of replacing my glow plugs, much to my disappointment.
Want to know what’s the opionin on OEM vs NGK?
OEM : :link: GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264248332809)
NGK : :link: NGK SET OF 4 GLOW PLUGS Y-527J x 4 for KIA SOUL HYUNDAI i30cw i30 10/2007~2015 5054716394002 | eBay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223047714472)
Also anyone have suggestions for a semi reasonable priced torque wrench the mesures torque both direction. Need atleast 10nm-40nm range
Taking out glow plugs do I require a deep socket ? Or will regular do?
What’s a decent penetrating oil to use ?
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Good luck with it Misha. Let's hope they come out without any dramas! I think it is a pretty straight forward job if they do.
There are a couple of threads on here about them getting stuck and the dramas involved with that, but there is also some worthwhile tips in those same threads about do's and don'ts.
Someone might supply links along with a few tips. :goodjob:
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Up until 30 Apr 2010 the OEMs were NGK, 36710-2A100 or Y527J
then they went 36710-2A200 which are a Hyundai labelled YURA plug or Yuratech I think.
Remove them with a warm motor
How did you confirm they're bad?
Once you remove the glow plug plate, I'd go with a 12mm deep socket. It has a tall post on it. 1/4 drive may give a better feel with less torque
(https://21.img.avito.st/1280x960/3614456921.jpg)
(https://partsouq.com/tesseract//assets/global/HYW201803/source/1/KEURPJD0/39367C11.gif)
shop around, should be able to get a set for $100 genuine. I see some places charging $50 per plug for NGK
:link: GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-HYUNDAI-I30-HATCHBACK-1-6L-CRDI-TURBO-DIESEL-ALL-MODEL-GLOW-PLUG-SET/264248332809?epid=1084698679&hash=item3d866d9209:g:ujQAAOSwBLlVMCSG)
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Up until 30 Apr 2010 the OEMs were NGK, 36710-2A100 or Y527J
then they went 36710-2A200 which are a Hyundai labelled YURA plug or Yuratech I think.
Remove them with a warm motor
How did you confirm they're bad?
Once you remove the glow plug plate, I'd go with a 12mm deep socket. It has a tall post on it. 1/4 drive may give a better feel with less torque
(https://21.img.avito.st/1280x960/3614456921.jpg)
(https://partsouq.com/tesseract//assets/global/HYW201803/source/1/KEURPJD0/39367C11.gif)
shop around, should be able to get a set for $100 genuine. I see some places charging $50 per plug for NGK
:link: GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-HYUNDAI-I30-HATCHBACK-1-6L-CRDI-TURBO-DIESEL-ALL-MODEL-GLOW-PLUG-SET/264248332809?epid=1084698679&hash=item3d866d9209:g:ujQAAOSwBLlVMCSG)
MAY 2010 is when she says she was made when i open my passenger door. So the 36710-2A200 ( :link: GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-HYUNDAI-I30-HATCHBACK-1-6L-CRDI-TURBO-DIESEL-ALL-MODEL-GLOW-PLUG-SET/264248332809)) should be correct as best I can tell.
Haven't confirmed they are bad, as I don't own a multi-meter.... altho it is on my to acquire list :p
For a few months now I've noticed on cold starts if i put my key in and leave it in the 'on' position for more then 10 or so seconds, and then try to start the engine the engine wont start, try's to but after 8 attempts of turning over i give up. I then take the key out, put it back in, and when the globes light go green , straight away try to start it again and it will start in 2-4 turn's.
This almost never happens if on first cold start up if i try to start the car soon after putting the key on the 'on' position and straight after the glow plug light has gone green start the car in 2-4 turns.
So i'm assuming they aren't holding there heat, and or/faulty.
Since then I've been noticing the past week or so on cold starts it struggles turn the engine over when turning the key. And when it finally does 5-8 turns it blows white smoke and is really rough start/idling (bouncing around between 950-1050rpm apx). After giving it a little fuel via the accelerator it smooths out a little, but not completely till the engine warms up, after which there is no white smoke. After the engine has warmed up she idles well and hovers smooth around the 780rpm mark.
After shopping around today in store at Bunnings, repco, and supercheap I was unable to find a reasonably priced (<100$-150$) mark that torqued in both directions and had a range of at least 10-40nm.
So i'm thinking now of buying the 4 plugs mentioned above and seeing if any local mechanic will fit them for me, and the labor i assume will cost less then buying a decent two way torque wrench, and a reamer. I don't want to try it without a torque wrench and bust one off in my engine ......... that would be a horrible experience ....
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I think either glow plug would work fine, anyway, it's a bit of an assumption that all 4 are bad. Would be handy to have some evidence of what is happening.
I've just changed out a set mainly because one of mine was having a lumpy start. 1 of 4 plugs was actually burnt out.
Did the set, still had a bit of a lumpy start.
Have since had trouble getting it to fire like it use too. I wait for the glow to go, then a few seconds and crank and crank with no go
turn off, start again and it fires up quicker.
Crank is starting to sound weak, I suspect my battery is weak, had it tested today and only 390 cca for a rated 600 so it's on its way.
Just saying, other things can contribute to the issue.
You can go to any Supercheap and they'll do a free battery analysis
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I think either glow plug would work fine, anyway, it's a bit of an assumption that all 4 are bad. Would be handy to have some evidence of what is happening.
I've just changed out a set mainly because one of mine was having a lumpy start. 1 of 4 plugs was actually burnt out.
Did the set, still had a bit of a lumpy start.
Have since had trouble getting it to fire like it use too. I wait for the glow to go, then a few seconds and crank and crank with no go
turn off, start again and it fires up quicker.
Crank is starting to sound weak, I suspect my battery is weak, had it tested today and only 390 cca for a rated 600 so it's on its way.
Just saying, other things can contribute to the issue.
You can go to any Supercheap and they'll do a free battery analysis
When to Supercheap, battery test came back good.
After the last battery going dead on the 4 year mark I’ve been doing my utmost to treat this one well (apx 2 years in now)
Grabbed a multimeter aswell, and we will see what ohms the glow plugs read later when I get a chance.
(https://i.ibb.co/9WdRjRD/96874-D8-D-021-E-4359-9-F25-DDE73-D9-F59-AA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2dpXBX9)
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Got my multi-meter today and put negative to ground, then positive to each glow plug. All read between 0.5-0.8 ohms. :goodjob2:
Looks like an absolute pain in the arse getting behind the engine and removing them, checking them with the multi-meter was pain enough :sweating: :sweating: :sweating:
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Got my multi-meter today and put negative to ground, then positive to each glow plug. All read between 0.5-0.8 ohms. :goodjob2:
Looks like an absolute pain in the arse getting behind the engine and removing them, checking them with the multi-meter was pain enough :sweating: :sweating: :sweating:
Was that done with the metal bar off? I think the NGKs were about 1 ohm.
Next step would be volts at the glow plug at ignition on position. Just do the same as resistance but have the meter set to dc volts able to measure up to 14v
Battery is good, and looking like glow resistance is ok.
Can glow plugs be bad but still have normal resistance? That I don't know
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Should clarify, just in case, have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage
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Should clarify, just in case, have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage
Yep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms.
Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not :)
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Should clarify, just in case, have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage
Yep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms.
Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not :)
then in that case the value is not that helpful. With the metal plate connected this means all plugs are in parallel. If all 4 read individually 1 ohm then in theory with everything connected a reading of 0.25 ohm would be expected. Hard to tell if one or more plugs are bad doing what you've done.
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Should clarify, just in case, have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage
Yep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms.
Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not :)
then in that case the value is not that helpful. With the metal plate connected this means all plugs are in parallel. If all 4 read individually 1 ohm then in theory with everything connected a reading of 0.25 ohm would be expected. Hard to tell if one or more plugs are bad doing what you've done.
Cool beans, ill remove the wiring connector and cables and test them individually :) Didn't know this before :) .
Do i need to disconnect the battery at all doing this ? or doesn't matter ?
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It shouldn't matter but, if you're not that sure how resistance measurements work, better with the battery disconnected.
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Should clarify, just in case, have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage
Yep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms.
Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not :)
then in that case the value is not that helpful. With the metal plate connected this means all plugs are in parallel. If all 4 read individually 1 ohm then in theory with everything connected a reading of 0.25 ohm would be expected. Hard to tell if one or more plugs are bad doing what you've done.
Cool beans, ill remove the wiring connector and cables and test them individually :) Didn't know this before :) .
Do i need to disconnect the battery at all doing this ? or doesn't matter ?
So long as the car is off and it's put back how it was, should not be an issue. The ends of the plate are open so you won't have to remove the nuts completely, should save you from losing one into the never never. 10mm nut on the connector
That's item 36720 in the image.
(http://www.douglases.co.uk/images/plug2.JPG)
Found this, have not read it yet.
:link: Testing and replacing glowplugs on a Hyundai i30 CRDi diesel engine (http://www.douglases.co.uk/i30glowplugs.shtml)
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Should clarify, just in case, have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage
Yep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms.
Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not :)
then in that case the value is not that helpful. With the metal plate connected this means all plugs are in parallel. If all 4 read individually 1 ohm then in theory with everything connected a reading of 0.25 ohm would be expected. Hard to tell if one or more plugs are bad doing what you've done.
Cool beans, ill remove the wiring connector and cables and test them individually :) Didn't know this before :) .
Do i need to disconnect the battery at all doing this ? or doesn't matter ?
So long as the car is off and it's put back how it was, should not be an issue. The ends of the plate are open so you won't have to remove the nuts completely, should save you from losing one into the never never. 10mm nut on the connector
That's item 36720 in the image.
(http://www.douglases.co.uk/images/plug2.JPG)
Found this, have not read it yet.
:link: Testing and replacing glowplugs on a Hyundai i30 CRDi diesel engine (http://www.douglases.co.uk/i30glowplugs.shtml)
Removed all nuts and the plate, didn't loose any nuts into the nether which i'm thankful for :sweating: :sweating: :sweating: :sweating: :sweating:
After re-testing the glow plugs they say :
PLUG 1 : 1.0Ω
PLUG 2 : 0.5Ω
PLUG 3 : 0.5Ω
PLUG 4 : 1.23MΩ <<<<<<<
Triple tested all 4, and plug 4 kept coming back to 1.23MΩ
So success in finding the culprit i guess :victory: :victory:
////EDIT
The resistance in the wires from the multimeter itself was 0.1Ω , so i guess subtract that from the above numbers.
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Yep, 1.23MΩ is as good as open circuit, given that most garden variety multimeters have an internal resistance of 2MΩ anyway. It's a only a factor of millions between plug 4 and the rest. :lol:
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Yep, 1.23MΩ is as good as open circuit, given that most garden variety multimeters have an internal resistance of 2MΩ anyway. It's a only a factor of millions between plug 4 and the rest. :lol:
Yep, was happy when it showed up on the LCD screen.
(https://i.ibb.co/GdqptFH/DD14-EAC6-D83-C-45-CE-B59-F-1792-F7-F0698-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Cwf8MWP)
Got this from Supercheap , it’s not the beer neez , but does the job good enough as far as I can tell.
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Good enough for government work. No workshop is complete without one. :goodjob:
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looks to be similar situation as mine with 1 dead although all 3 remaining had 1 ohm , 0.2 ohm on the leads, dead one started reading at 14 Meg ohms.
The 2 at 0.5 ohm is interesting being different to the other.
I replaced the set, just seems logical.
Being devils advocate, I'd start with removal of the dead one first. If it goes pear shaped at least the snapped plug was already not useful anyway.
:sweating:
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Tools, oil, heat and time. I started lubricating the threads about 1-1 1/2 weeks earlier. I used 50-50 acetone atf mix. Had no issues removing them. All 4 plugs were dead.
:link: Glow Plug tips and tricks - YouTube (https://youtu.be/W9lzWWGj8LM)
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Hi Sundiz,
Did you use a reamer to remove the carbon deposits at the bottom of the glow plug channel? Was there much carbon there?
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I tried to get my hands on one, but the huyndai thread size is a bit rare. Only saw few suitable glow plug reamers online which would have costed about 100€. Therefore I did not use a reamer. But if you get your hands on one, I recommend using it. But as mentioned in my DIY topic, I did not have any issues not having a reamer.
I checked the glow plug hole with endoscope. There was a little bit of carbon dust at the bottom, but I just shot some pressurized air to the hole and that cleaned the hole enough to get the plugs to be seated properly.
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From the posted video link, I believe the best tip was to use moment rachet. I set my wrench to 30nm if I remember correctly. That was enough to open the plugs.
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(https://i.ibb.co/1670YCn/glow-plugs-old-1-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0tmnp0X)
Job done, 2+hours of bending my knee's backwards :mad: :mad: was more than enough for one afternoon.
Plug 2 and 3 came out with ease at ~12nm
Plug 4 took a bit more coaching at ~25nm
Plug 1 altho loosened at ~20nm was a huge pain as unscrewing it was a constant 12nm due to the carbon build up, even after the thread finished it was stuck and took a bit of coaching to come out.
Re-tested old plugs and they all read identical ohms as before.
Tested the new glow plugs, all around the 0.8-1.0Ω.
Didn't have a reamer, but did best i could removing old carbon. Plug 1 was bar far the worst for carbon powder crap at the bottom, and hardened carbon around the thread.
2,3,4 plugs went in fine with 15nm of force. But plug 1 I assume due to the carbon struggled to get down far enough, it still seems that its still about ~1 thread not in enough, but going past 15nm all the way to 20nm i wasn't going to push it any further.
Started the engine up and she started smooth and just after the 2nd kick/turn. She was idling around the <800rpm mark where she should be, as opposed to jumping around between 950-1050rpm rough idling like it was before. But tomorrow morning will be the better test on a cold morning and cold engine. :Good_luck: :Good_luck: :Good_luck:
Cost of buying new stuff :
$100 set of OEM glow plugs :link: GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6 L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-HYUNDAI-I30-HATCHBACK-1-6-L-CRDI-TURBO-DIESEL-ALL-MODEL-GLOW-PLUG-SET/264248332809?epid=1084698679&hash=item3d866d9209:g:ujQAAOSwBLlVMCSG&frcectupt=true)
$48 multimeter :link: SCA Multimeter - Digital | Supercheap Auto (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-multimeter---digital/387595.html)
$249 cw/ccw 10-135nm torque wrench :link: http://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-boxtwd366-3-8-dr-digital-torque-wrench-13-5-135nm (http://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-boxtwd366-3-8-dr-digital-torque-wrench-13-5-135nm)
Total :$400
Considering the few places i checked quoted me between $400-$500AUD, I think i ended up on top. Plus now I have a torque wrench which I've wanted for ages :D :D :D
:drinks: :drinks: :drinks:
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Thanks for that update Misha,
Excellent post and great news. Fingers crossed for the morning.
.. and a multimeter. :goodjob:
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Well done, Misha! :goodjob:
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(https://i.ibb.co/1670YCn/glow-plugs-old-1-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0tmnp0X)
Job done, 2+hours of bending my knee's backwards :mad: :mad: was more than enough for one afternoon.
Plug 2 and 3 came out with ease at ~12nm
Plug 4 took a bit more coaching at ~25nm
Plug 1 altho loosened at ~20nm was a huge pain as unscrewing it was a constant 12nm due to the carbon build up, even after the thread finished it was stuck and took a bit of coaching to come out.
Re-tested old plugs and they all read identical ohms as before.
Tested the new glow plugs, all around the 0.8-1.0Ω.
Didn't have a reamer, but did best i could removing old carbon. Plug 1 was bar far the worst for carbon powder crap at the bottom, and hardened carbon around the thread.
2,3,4 plugs went in fine with 15nm of force. But plug 1 I assume due to the carbon struggled to get down far enough, it still seems that its still about ~1 thread not in enough, but going past 15nm all the way to 20nm i wasn't going to push it any further.
Started the engine up and she started smooth and just after the 2nd kick/turn. She was idling around the <800rpm mark where she should be, as opposed to jumping around between 950-1050rpm rough idling like it was before. But tomorrow morning will be the better test on a cold morning and cold engine. :Good_luck: :Good_luck: :Good_luck:
Cost of buying new stuff :
$100 set of OEM glow plugs :link: GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6 L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-HYUNDAI-I30-HATCHBACK-1-6-L-CRDI-TURBO-DIESEL-ALL-MODEL-GLOW-PLUG-SET/264248332809?epid=1084698679&hash=item3d866d9209:g:ujQAAOSwBLlVMCSG&frcectupt=true)
$48 multimeter :link: SCA Multimeter - Digital | Supercheap Auto (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-multimeter---digital/387595.html)
$249 cw/ccw 10-135nm torque wrench :link: http://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-boxtwd366-3-8-dr-digital-torque-wrench-13-5-135nm (http://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-boxtwd366-3-8-dr-digital-torque-wrench-13-5-135nm)
Total :$400
Considering the few places i checked quoted me between $400-$500AUD, I think i ended up on top. Plus now I have a torque wrench which I've wanted for ages :D :D :D
:drinks: :drinks: :drinks:
nice, The only concern I'd have is if that gummed up one which is lucky it came out, ok.
if it has not seated , and gases get past it , then it's going to likely gum up again and could seize in there next time.
maybe a ream out could be good idea now. I don't have one and took a gamble on mine but they were spotless coming out.
Don't have the glow plug experience to comment much more
Well done
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A few years ago (when Asterix had enormous trouble with sheared glow plugs in his i30) I searched for a reamer to suit the i30 diesel (M10x1.25) and found this one:-
:link: LASER TOOLS GLOW GLO PLUG BASE APERTURE CLEANING & REAMER M8 M10 M12 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LASER-TOOLS-GLOW-GLO-PLUG-BASE-APERTURE-CLEANING-REAMER-M8-M10-M12/183502716778?hash=item2ab99d3f6a:g:hE4AAOSwvoxb6W~C&frcectupt=true)
to be the most reasonably priced. It was much cheaper then! :lol:
At the time, I rang a very well known diesel specialist in NSW (will not mention their name) and the mechanic that I spoke to had not even heard of glow plug aperture reamers! :crazy1:
When I was in Austria a few years back, I couldn't help noticing that almost every vehicle there (it seemed) was a diesel. Maybe it's the size of our country and the amount of km that we do (compared to say, city running elsewhere) that dictates that we don't get as much carbon build-up as city-driving diesels in Europe...and there might not be the same need for these reamers.
I too would be concerned about the difficulty that you had fitting one of the glow plugs, Misha.
For our helpful mechanics out there...would it be an advantage to use something like this before attempting a glow plug replacement?
:link: Liqui-Moly Diesel Engine Intake Decarb - 326g | Supercheap Auto (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/liqui-moly-liqui-moly-diesel-engine-intake-decarb---326g/515122.html?cgid=SCA8004635#msclkid=cb2cc0b642f212fd64069c7d254177d2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SCA+-+AU+-+Search+-+Generic+-+Manufacturers+-+Oils+&utm_term=Liqui+Moly&utm_content=Brand+only+-+Liqui+Moly&gclid=CI3puL7r_eECFZQqjgodMeQOGw&gclsrc=ds)
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(https://i.ibb.co/1670YCn/glow-plugs-old-1-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0tmnp0X)
Job done, 2+hours of bending my knee's backwards :mad: :mad: was more than enough for one afternoon.
Plug 2 and 3 came out with ease at ~12nm
Plug 4 took a bit more coaching at ~25nm
Plug 1 altho loosened at ~20nm was a huge pain as unscrewing it was a constant 12nm due to the carbon build up, even after the thread finished it was stuck and took a bit of coaching to come out.
Re-tested old plugs and they all read identical ohms as before.
Tested the new glow plugs, all around the 0.8-1.0Ω.
Didn't have a reamer, but did best i could removing old carbon. Plug 1 was bar far the worst for carbon powder crap at the bottom, and hardened carbon around the thread.
2,3,4 plugs went in fine with 15nm of force. But plug 1 I assume due to the carbon struggled to get down far enough, it still seems that its still about ~1 thread not in enough, but going past 15nm all the way to 20nm i wasn't going to push it any further.
Started the engine up and she started smooth and just after the 2nd kick/turn. She was idling around the <800rpm mark where she should be, as opposed to jumping around between 950-1050rpm rough idling like it was before. But tomorrow morning will be the better test on a cold morning and cold engine. :Good_luck: :Good_luck: :Good_luck:
Cost of buying new stuff :
$100 set of OEM glow plugs :link: GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6 L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-HYUNDAI-I30-HATCHBACK-1-6-L-CRDI-TURBO-DIESEL-ALL-MODEL-GLOW-PLUG-SET/264248332809?epid=1084698679&hash=item3d866d9209:g:ujQAAOSwBLlVMCSG&frcectupt=true)
$48 multimeter :link: SCA Multimeter - Digital | Supercheap Auto (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-multimeter---digital/387595.html)
$249 cw/ccw 10-135nm torque wrench :link: http://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-boxtwd366-3-8-dr-digital-torque-wrench-13-5-135nm (http://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-boxtwd366-3-8-dr-digital-torque-wrench-13-5-135nm)
Total :$400
Considering the few places i checked quoted me between $400-$500AUD, I think i ended up on top. Plus now I have a torque wrench which I've wanted for ages :D :D :D
:drinks: :drinks: :drinks:
nice, The only concern I'd have is if that gummed up one which is lucky it came out, ok.
if it has not seated , and gases get past it , then it's going to likely gum up again and could seize in there next time.
maybe a ream out could be good idea now. I don't have one and took a gamble on mine but they were spotless coming out.
Don't have the glow plug experience to comment much more
Well done
Finished work, started her up, and was super rough with alot of white smoke :confused: :confused:.
Got her home only to discover plug 1 worked its way loose ~3 threads upwards :/ . Plug 2-4 where still tight best i could tell, took a gander for carbon on plug 2, but 100% clean.
Took plug 1 out to have a gander only to see this : (https://i.ibb.co/VT3BM72/new-glow-plug-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BBwsTXq)
All new carbon nicely all gunked up. Cleaned it up a little bit before putting it back in, and from what i could tell i was able to seat it in properly this time on a freshly hot engine.
I'm quite concerned how much carbon there is in cylinder 1 ...... anyone have suggestions or idea's to remove some carbon ? @Paolo5 suggested moly intake decarb, might give that a go.
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Maybe time for the Hyundai Master Tech @cruiserfied
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:link: Green Carbon Clean, Engine Carbon Cleaning Services in Canberra ACT (https://www.greencarbonclean.com.au/)
Thoughts ?
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Maybe time for the Hyundai Master Tech @cruiserfied
No.1 was the hard one to get out, likely leaving a carbon deposit up the glow plug hole.
I'd bet that the new plug has just picked up a bunch of carbon going in and out again. The tip doesn't look too bad.
As for carbon cleaning, i've never actually done any onboard cleaning. Only cleaning parts that have been removed.
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Maybe time for the Hyundai Master Tech @cruiserfied
No.1 was the hard one to get out, likely leaving a carbon deposit up the glow plug hole.
I'd bet that the new plug has just picked up a bunch of carbon going in and out again. The tip doesn't look too bad.
As for carbon cleaning, i've never actually done any onboard cleaning. Only cleaning parts that have been removed.
so what's the solution? Ream, a squirt of WD and run it in and out several times? Or let it be?
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Maybe time for the Hyundai Master Tech @cruiserfied
No.1 was the hard one to get out, likely leaving a carbon deposit up the glow plug hole.
I'd bet that the new plug has just picked up a bunch of carbon going in and out again. The tip doesn't look too bad.
As for carbon cleaning, i've never actually done any onboard cleaning. Only cleaning parts that have been removed.
so what's the solution? Ream, a squirt of WD and run it in and out several times? Or let it be?
My biggest worry with reaming and cleaning is deposits dropping down and getting on the valve seats and compromising the valve sealing.
If i were going to clean it up i've heard alot of good reports about Wurth Injector ex product for breaking down carbon.
Would make sense to try and clean it up as best you can.
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Not glow plug related. But what is this lever, and why would sometimes after turning off the engine it would go back and forth up to 8 times ???
(https://i.ibb.co/TgTxPgS/58443802-10156958555172349-3557964312599330816-n-LI-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/71zdr15)(https://i.ibb.co/4p16Syx/59138232-10156958555162349-1010554896501440512-n-LI.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PgD7Wp8)(https://i.ibb.co/ySt7Kpt/59406999-10156958555212349-4579139022546272256-n-LI.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4dz3C2z)
Still having super rough cold starts, having to cross my fingers each time now :P , so guess glow plugs wheren't the reason for my shithouse cold engine starts. That distinct wobbling/waffling noise I've posted about previously has increased as well. Against my wish and my empty wallet I think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer next week to ask them to figure it out. Cause not knowing if your car will start in the morning to get to work is really getting to me ....
( side note : When revving the engine up i can here ever so slightly a high pitched whistle, and after releasing the accelerator and the rpm goes down, during the rpm going down i can here something ever so slightly releasing some sort of pressure, who knows where or what .... :/
//EDIT : Found this old post with vid, mine sounds very similar to this but mabye only 25% of the videos noise level :link: Turbo whistle (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=19654.msg239044#msg239044) )
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Not glow plug related. But what is this lever, and why would sometimes after turning off the engine it would go back and forth up to 8 times ???
(https://i.ibb.co/TgTxPgS/58443802-10156958555172349-3557964312599330816-n-LI-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/71zdr15)(https://i.ibb.co/4p16Syx/59138232-10156958555162349-1010554896501440512-n-LI.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PgD7Wp8)(https://i.ibb.co/ySt7Kpt/59406999-10156958555212349-4579139022546272256-n-LI.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4dz3C2z)
Still having super rough cold starts, having to cross my fingers each time now :P , so guess glow plugs wheren't the reason for my shithouse cold engine starts. That distinct wobbling/waffling noise I've posted about previously has increased as well. Against my wish and my empty wallet I think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer next week to ask them to figure it out. Cause not knowing if your car will start in the morning to get to work is really getting to me ....
side note : When revving the engine up i can here ever so slightly a high pitched whistle, and after releasing the accelerator and the rpm goes down, during the rpm going down i can here something ever so slightly releasing some sort of pressure, who knows where or what .... :/
I'm starting to think you're a bit like me and go looking for issues . I sympathise because the slightly lumpy start mine has did not change with new glows or new battery and that's with 1 dead plug, a battery @ 66% and even put new fuel filter in too. It's been an awesome car at 240000K now it's still very quiet and economical. What it's doing is minor for me.
anyway, the whistle is the turbo spooling , unless it's loud , perfectly normal. The other item is the swirl flap motor, again what you describe is normal routine on shutdown. I forget now if it's a calibration process or simply a check by the ECU.
The intake has dual runners or 2 valves per cylinder, likely improve efficiency at lower RPM, operates as follows
(https://i.imgur.com/SXlYZf0.jpg)
That image I loaded in a post somewhere
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Not glow plug related. But what is this lever, and why would sometimes after turning off the engine it would go back and forth up to 8 times ???
(https://i.ibb.co/TgTxPgS/58443802-10156958555172349-3557964312599330816-n-LI-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/71zdr15)(https://i.ibb.co/4p16Syx/59138232-10156958555162349-1010554896501440512-n-LI.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PgD7Wp8)(https://i.ibb.co/ySt7Kpt/59406999-10156958555212349-4579139022546272256-n-LI.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4dz3C2z)
Still having super rough cold starts, having to cross my fingers each time now :P , so guess glow plugs wheren't the reason for my shithouse cold engine starts. That distinct wobbling/waffling noise I've posted about previously has increased as well. Against my wish and my empty wallet I think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer next week to ask them to figure it out. Cause not knowing if your car will start in the morning to get to work is really getting to me ....
side note : When revving the engine up i can here ever so slightly a high pitched whistle, and after releasing the accelerator and the rpm goes down, during the rpm going down i can here something ever so slightly releasing some sort of pressure, who knows where or what .... :/
I'm starting to think you're a bit like me and go looking for issues . I sympathise because the slightly lumpy start mine has did not change with new glows or new battery and that's with 1 dead plug, a battery @ 66% and even put new fuel filter in too. It's been an awesome car at 240000K now it's still very quiet and economical. What it's doing is minor for me.
anyway, the whistle is the turbo spooling , unless it's loud , perfectly normal. The other item is the swirl flap motor, again what you describe is normal routine on shutdown. I forget now if it's a calibration process or simply a check by the ECU.
The intake has dual runners or 2 valves per cylinder, likely improve efficiency at lower RPM, operates as follows
(https://i.imgur.com/SXlYZf0.jpg)
That image I loaded in a post somewhere
Issue's/clues , would agree with that, but mostly out of worry now.
I'm very new(<3months) to opening the hood of my own car(trying my best to do my own basic servicing to save money at dealer, as they charge through the arse sometimes for near nothing at all it seams), so i'm really trying to wrap my head around what everything is, what it does, and how they are connected, and how they are supposed to sound and function/operate correctly. This lever being active after i've turned the engine off being one of them.
I tried googling it as best i could, but came up with nothin that looked like it.
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Just noticed the blue writing on black background, virtually invisible. " small pool of fuel leaking somewhere"
That may be a clue then . A leak may also mean air entering and I'd expect air in the lines would cause injection issues.
Whatever you do, don't put parts of your body around the pipes and joints etc if there's a leak just in case it's a High Pressure leak whilst running or shortly after.. I only know what I've read but the CRDi can run at 1600 bar or about 23000PSI
The metal pipes and joints are High Pressure, the black hoses I believe are return lines, should be low pressure, and that's about the detail I know.
I'm out of my depth knowledge wise on this topic though, good time to read up on it I guess :crazy2:
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Not glow plug related. But what is this lever, and why would sometimes after turning off the engine it would go back and forth up to 8 times ???
(https://i.ibb.co/TgTxPgS/58443802-10156958555172349-3557964312599330816-n-LI-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/71zdr15)(https://i.ibb.co/4p16Syx/59138232-10156958555162349-1010554896501440512-n-LI.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PgD7Wp8)(https://i.ibb.co/ySt7Kpt/59406999-10156958555212349-4579139022546272256-n-LI.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4dz3C2z)
Still having super rough cold starts, having to cross my fingers each time now :P , so guess glow plugs wheren't the reason for my shithouse cold engine starts. That distinct wobbling/waffling noise I've posted about previously has increased as well. Against my wish and my empty wallet I think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer next week to ask them to figure it out. Cause not knowing if your car will start in the morning to get to work is really getting to me ....
side note : When revving the engine up i can here ever so slightly a high pitched whistle, and after releasing the accelerator and the rpm goes down, during the rpm going down i can here something ever so slightly releasing some sort of pressure, who knows where or what .... :/
I'm starting to think you're a bit like me and go looking for issues . I sympathise because the slightly lumpy start mine has did not change with new glows or new battery and that's with 1 dead plug, a battery @ 66% and even put new fuel filter in too. It's been an awesome car at 240000K now it's still very quiet and economical. What it's doing is minor for me.
anyway, the whistle is the turbo spooling , unless it's loud , perfectly normal. The other item is the swirl flap motor, again what you describe is normal routine on shutdown. I forget now if it's a calibration process or simply a check by the ECU.
The intake has dual runners or 2 valves per cylinder, likely improve efficiency at lower RPM, operates as follows
(https://i.imgur.com/SXlYZf0.jpg)
That image I loaded in a post somewhere
Issue's/clues , would agree with that, but mostly out of worry now.
I'm very new(<3months) to opening the hood of my own car(trying my best to do my own basic servicing to save money at dealer, as they charge through the arse sometimes for near nothing at all it seams), so i'm really trying to wrap my head around what everything is, what it does, and how they are connected, and how they are supposed to sound and function/operate correctly. This lever being active after i've turned the engine off being one of them.
I tried googling it as best i could, but came up with nothin that looked like it.
Well, you have the answer now.
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(https://i.ibb.co/1JQfW5g/block.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6JwRCxM)
(https://i.ibb.co/bRs6j1y/crdi-warning.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wrSdZyb)
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From afar, the fail safe on modern Euro design, is for economy. Vatiations occur. On the Bimmmer Z they have a box on the intake that only allows air to flow through half the manifold at low revs. Higher it becomes free flowing.
Taking a punt here, but it sounds like you have a cold air leak, time to get the stethoscope out.
Have had same and its a pain until temp is at full running, then engine runs like a dream.
@Misha . I applaude your DIY self-education. Heart stopped when you mentioned going to a dealer. :crazy1: DONT DO THAT.
any good mechanic can fix an i30.
Find an independent garage with mechanics who have wider experience and honest pricing.
If the mechanics wont talk or advise you, move on.
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From afar, the fail safe on modern Euro design, is for economy. Vatiations occur. On the Bimmmer Z they have a box on the intake that only allows air to flow through half the manifold at low revs. Higher it becomes free flowing.
Taking a punt here, but it sounds like you have a cold air leak, time to get the stethoscope out.
Have had same and its a pain until temp is at full running, then engine runs like a dream.
@Misha . I applaude your DIY self-education. Heart stopped when you mentioned going to a dealer. :crazy1: DONT DO THAT.
any good mechanic can fix an i30.
Find an independent garage with mechanics who have wider experience and honest pricing.
If the mechanics wont talk or advise you, move on.
@nzenigma Also reporting fuel leak it seems around the injectors
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From afar, the fail safe on modern Euro design, is for economy. Vatiations occur. On the Bimmmer Z they have a box on the intake that only allows air to flow through half the manifold at low revs. Higher it becomes free flowing.
Taking a punt here, but it sounds like you have a cold air leak, time to get the stethoscope out.
Have had same and its a pain until temp is at full running, then engine runs like a dream.
@Misha . I applaude your DIY self-education. Heart stopped when you mentioned going to a dealer. :crazy1: DONT DO THAT.
any good mechanic can fix an i30.
Find an independent garage with mechanics who have wider experience and honest pricing.
If the mechanics wont talk or advise you, move on.
@nzenigma Also reporting fuel leak it seems around the injectors
Yeah, fuel usually pools from the third injector line somewhere. Took some photo's this arvo.
1(https://i.ibb.co/rvGzjgZ/59526620-10156964079072349-4993433401869467648-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6NRTM24)2(https://i.ibb.co/Bt7pG6b/59337302-10156964079077349-8067502458106019840-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6mpM8tz)
3(https://i.ibb.co/179FD64/59364613-10156964079087349-1587099589645697024-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/djQ8dgH)4(https://i.ibb.co/vq5zFm0/59574567-10156964079097349-2430208391474315264-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NChYvpc)
I noticed what i assume is some sort of rubbery seal sticking out from the front left of the engine(Something similar on the right side of engine, but that looks normal from what i can tell), is this the head gasket ? Its right next to cylinder 1, which could explain the huge carbon build up and trouble getting out/in glow plug 1.
(https://i.ibb.co/mc8nJ94/59449961-10156964079172349-5019737705735520256-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YLZ52ch)
(https://i.ibb.co/x8JMPk8/59549819-10156964079192349-4738335747763863552-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Vp2vr1p)
(https://i.ibb.co/VMDf2xV/59471141-10156964079027349-7817856186945896448-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/frtj49M)
I've booked into a local mechanic in the morning to see if they can diagnose the issue. But at $60 per 1/2 hour hopefully they diagnose the real issue promptly :P
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Afraid Im at a disadvantage at the moment, im in Poland and my screen is in its death thros, but can see enough to say thats rubber rocker cover seal. No carbon but you may get some slight oil leak over time. Wont affect running.
A bit of wet around injector line, also not going to affect running, but if its a large leak and enough to affect line pressure then it may be causing your symptoms.
Good re the workshop. They should treat you like a potential client in the future. Tell them you are getting advice from us on line, but we acknowledge that any advice eventually needs hands on the job. AND we are not f**n facebook. :spitty:
If not comfortable with them, just move on.
Good luck, stay in touch.
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Very nice mate, ill be in Ukraine by this time next week. If you happen to be in Kraków in ~6 weeks i can shout you one of the many beers i owe you :P :drinks:
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appreciate that, but unfortunately only have a month here :goodjob2:
enduring Warsaw at the moment, hanking to move on to places like Krakow.
Cheers Gary
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Got my car back from the mechanics, the owner/head mechanic seams like a top bloke (The other younger bloke seemed even more green than me tho :P , maybe first year apprentice who knows. Like me we all have to start somewhere i guess.). Car was in shop all day, he said 1.5 hours where looking at the car. However didn't charge me which was a surprise... i was expecting a charge at $120/h labor cost, so this has made a good impression on me.
He said the head of injector 3 is leaking and loosing pressure. And part of my hard and rough cold engine starts are because after a while of my car sitting the rail looses fuel pressure and has to re-prime when i start it or something.
He recommended replacing all 4 injectors with new if he can get the parts, either OEM or aftermarket.
His going to ring me back at some point, but ball park he guesstimated $440ea injector + ~2-3 hours labor . So ~$2100
//Thinking back maybe 3-4 years ago, literally 6 weeks out of my 5 year warranty :mad: the dealers had to replace the injectors with new ones, but i only gave them the go ahead for replacing the 2 bad ones as i couldn't afford the then ~$1100ea injector they quoted me . So makes me wonder if i should have replaced all 4 now. As to which ones where the bad ones replaced i have no idea, and apparently the dealer doesn't either as they changed owners/computer systems and didn't have any old data from before....... Hmmmm, oh well, guess lesson learned and replace all 4 injectors at same time from now on. :P :P :P
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Got my car back from the mechanics, the owner/head mechanic seams like a top bloke (The other younger bloke seemed even more green than me tho :P , maybe first year apprentice who knows. Like me we all have to start somewhere i guess.). Car was in shop all day, he said 1.5 hours where looking at the car. However didn't charge me which was a surprise... i was expecting a charge at $120/h labor cost, so this has made a good impression on me.
He said the head of injector 3 is leaking and loosing pressure. And part of my hard and rough cold engine starts are because after a while of my car sitting the rail looses fuel pressure and has to re-prime when i start it or something.
He recommended replacing all 4 injectors with new if he can get the parts, either OEM or aftermarket.
His going to ring me back at some point, but ball park he guesstimated $440ea injector + ~2-3 hours labor . So ~$2100
//Thinking back maybe 3-4 years ago, literally 6 weeks out of my 5 year warranty :mad: the dealers had to replace the injectors with new ones, but i only gave them the go ahead for replacing the 2 bad ones as i couldn't afford the then ~$1100ea injector they quoted me . So makes me wonder if i should have replaced all 4 now. As to which ones where the bad ones replaced i have no idea, and apparently the dealer doesn't either as they changed owners/computer systems and didn't have any old data from before....... Hmmmm, oh well, guess lesson learned and replace all 4 injectors at same time from now on. :P :P :P
Do you have the paperwork which says which 2? I honestly don't know what would be best, but easy to say replace all 4 and give us a couple of grand.
2nd opinion from a Diesel injector specialist. They can be rebuilt I believe. why would you replace all 4 for 1 possible defective?
OEM PART NO: 33800-2A400
BOSCH PART NO: 0445110255
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@Misha
Wow spending $2100 on a 9 year old car is a big decision! You would want to be sure the rest of the car is A1 and unlikely to need any other significant expenses in the near future. A 2nd hand Diesel motor may be cheaper?
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@Misha
Wow spending $2100 on a 9 year old car is a big decision! You would want to be sure the rest of the car is A1 and unlikely to need any other significant expenses in the near future. A 2nd hand Diesel motor may be cheaper?
Right on Dazz, :goodjob2: at least half that price.
We assume mechanic is right. It basically follows what i was saying about a more extensive leak.
At this stage I would just do the one, Gerard has a lot of good contacts in the wrecking game, he will happily scope the territory for IEDs and injectors.
for a mate :mrgreen: :goodjob2: :faint:
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@Misha
Wow spending $2100 on a 9 year old car is a big decision! You would want to be sure the rest of the car is A1 and unlikely to need any other significant expenses in the near future. A 2nd hand Diesel motor may be cheaper?
@Misha
Wow spending $2100 on a 9 year old car is a big decision! You would want to be sure the rest of the car is A1 and unlikely to need any other significant expenses in the near future. A 2nd hand Diesel motor may be cheaper?
Right on Dazz, :goodjob2: at least half that price.
We assume mechanic is right. It basically follows what i was saying about a more extensive leak.
At this stage I would just do the one, Gerard has a lot of good contacts in the wrecking game, he will happily scope the territory for IEDs and injectors.
for a mate :mrgreen: :goodjob2: :faint:
He was pretty keen on replacing all 4 at once with new. quote "just replacing the one can cause other issues" . Don't know what "other" issues he would be referring to other than mix and matching different branded injectors. But i would assume that previously the dealer service center would have only replaced the last ones with OEM, so new individual OEM's shouldn't be a huge issues that i can think of personally for just replacing the 1.
Do you guys recommend calling around and asking for quotes on replacing the 1 with OEM ? or is it worth buying 1 OEM myself then calling around seeing if anyone will install it. I assume there's a bit more than simply pulling out, then screwing in the new one. Unless anyone has any detailed for dummy guides for replacing them for me ?
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No real problem. DIY. :razz: Each one is held down into the head recess by one bolt and a 'collar'. Remove and lift out.
But first, Basically, You unclip electric plug. Release bipass line. Two nuts each end of its Hi pressure fuel line and remove it.
For peak performance the ECU is reset for each injector, but as tw found out, no noticeable difference.
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No real problem. DIY. :razz: Each one is held down into the head recess by one bolt and a 'collar'. Remove and lift out.
But first, Basically, You unclip electric plug. Release bipass line. Two nuts each end of its Hi pressure fuel line and remove it.
For peak performance the ECU is reset for each injector, but as tw found out, no noticeable difference.
@nzenigma @tw2005 resetting the ECU by unplugging the battery for 1/2 hour , or programming the new injector into the ECU ? Is either necessary?
Think I should defiantly go new ?: :link: Hundai i30 common rail diesel injector Bosch 0445110255 Hyundai 33800-2A400 | eBay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F252760262421)
Or consider second hand , or reconditioned , or remanufactred : :link: Remanufactured Injectors Bosch CRDI 33800 2A400 For hyundai Kia | eBay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182287177829)
Any special tools other than basic ?
Any idea of torqueing nm for putting the collar back on?
Cold or hot engine ?
Do I have to relieve any fuel pressure in a special way, or removing the high pressure line doesn’t require any pre-prep before removing it ?
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No real problem. DIY. :razz: Each one is held down into the head recess by one bolt and a 'collar'. Remove and lift out.
But first, Basically, You unclip electric plug. Release bipass line. Two nuts each end of its Hi pressure fuel line and remove it.
For peak performance the ECU is reset for each injector, but as tw found out, no noticeable difference.
@nzenigma @tw2005 resetting the ECU by unplugging the battery for 1/2 hour , or programming the new injector into the ECU ? Is either necessary?
NO
r hyundai Kia | eBay[/i][/url]
IF USING USA CURRENCY AND POST PRICE IS HIGH>
Any special tools other than basic ? NO
Any idea of torqueing nm for putting the collar back on? BEFORE WRIST HURTS :twisted:
Cold or hot engine ? COLD
Do I have to relieve any fuel pressure in a special way, or removing the high pressure line doesn’t require any pre-prep before removing it ? JUST CRACK NUT ON THE FUEL LINE AND LET IT LEAK>
HY SAY REPLACE LINE (LEAKS) BUT NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH REUSING PIPES>
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IF you are heading up here soon, check sources for parts.
In the past, I have imported glow plugs from Poland, half price of Oz and Korean stock.
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IF you are heading up here soon, check sources for parts.
In the past, I have imported glow plugs from Poland, half price of Oz and Korean stock.
~6 weeks till in poland.
Thinking of getting these (set of 4) :link: 4 x Hyundai BOSCH Diesel Injector nozzle i30 FD 1.6 CRDi 0445110255 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-x-Hyundai-BOSCH-Diesel-Injector-nozzle-i30-FD-1-6-CRDi-0445110255/292871320942?hash=item44307db56e:g:2AYAAOSwsB9bnbRh&frcectupt=true)
He reckons they where only used for 10 mins before discovering the fault was elsewhere and removed them
Not OEM, but correct part number that i can tell
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Seems and easy route. :goodjob2: He has 100% report. (One out of the four should work :twisted:)
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After my car sitting cold for 9 hours at work.
Recorded my trip this arvo from key on to key off.
EGR command to EGR error % may or may not give me an inkling that the EGR valve needs cleaning, tho could just be bad sensor and mean nothing :P .
Fuel rail pressure before startup was 650kpa/94.27psi, don't know if that's good or bad. :crazy2: :crazy2:
File was to big for here, so google drived it:
:link: Data Log May 12 2019 02_39 PM.zip - Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a72CYOuwnkNEQdBcfb63PCbN1OZGa6KP/view?usp=sharing)
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After my car sitting cold for 9 hours at work.
Recorded my trip this arvo from key on to key off.
EGR command to EGR error % may or may not give me an inkling that the EGR valve needs cleaning, tho could just be bad sensor and mean nothing :P .
Fuel rail pressure before startup was 650kpa/94.27psi, don't know if that's good or bad. :crazy2: :crazy2:
File was to big for here, so google drived it:
:link: Data Log May 12 2019 02_39 PM.zip - Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a72CYOuwnkNEQdBcfb63PCbN1OZGa6KP/view?usp=sharing)
I'm not going to even pretend to know the EGR system. Just plugged in a generic Actron scantool that gives live data. I can see the command % change and also the error % fluctuate.
I can get mine to command the EGR above idle and error seems to also change, when I drop back to idle it stills says it's open with a 99.2% error, if I just open the throttle, drops to 4.7% and error also drops to 30% or whatever it is, not 99%
I plugged into 1 that has about 100000K and another with close to 400 000K, both appear to be doing the same
4.7 % is closed and 43.5% is open. looks like the data is captured every 1/10th sec , is that correct?
What you have there could be normal, those higher errors appear to be around idle, just like mine.
@cruiserfied
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@Misha
Why are we pussin about with EGR.?? :confused:
Same as Gerard has said , I think you are looking for problems that don't exist.
Just deal with the injectors first, don't muddy the waters. Especially if you are trying to learn about the system.
Later you can run some EGR cleaner, even blank EGR, if you want to.
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After a small hiatus overseas I've come back and changed over my 4 diesel injectors and changed the oil+filter over.
Few things.
Defiantly leaking oil from somewhere on the left side of engine bay, as there was a reasonable amount of oil on the bottom plastic cover/hanging off the bottom of a pipe when i took it off to change my oil(which i washed last time i did it, so i know it was clean 5000km ago).It's probly gone down 3-4~mm oil level on the stick since i changed it last, as i slightly overfilled it last time, now it was exactly at the Full mark when i went to change it this time
Changing out the injectors, 2 of which(don't know which ones) where replaced by Hyundai at the end of 2015 (3 months out of warrenty :/)
Injectors 1 & 4 where 0445110 256 and both marked 1 & 4 . Injectors 2 & 3 where 0445110255 and unmarked.
All came out easily, all with a bit of oil around the injector, i assume that's normal.
Pulling out injectors 3 & 4 both came out with a large pool of fuel with it, aswell as injector 3 finding a hard foriegn piece of plastic that was at the bottom of the hole.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZcQ5NWx/1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NW057ZK)(https://i.ibb.co/1MfhVTR/2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r3GTPH5)(https://i.ibb.co/nbgbYJZ/3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wR0RPm3)(https://i.ibb.co/HVgCs9Z/4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JKkq4SZ)(https://i.ibb.co/q9cMJdm/3-with-plastic-bit.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3WjyR7S)(https://i.ibb.co/x5WX6Q3/1234.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h8bLVvC)
Good news is i'm getting the fuel economy closer to what i used to get a few years ago, the past week i've been getting between 5.0-6.5 around the city(yes i drive like a conservative grandma...... :needspecscleaning:), as opposed to the 7.5-8.0 I was getting before i replaced injectors(Tho I felt like it was still using more fuel than what it was saying as ive been filling it up way more than i was used to).
Bad news, that damn 'wobbling' noise and rough idleing(~1000rpm) after cold engine start is still there. Even with aircon off, and with drive belt off its still there. So im still lost :crazy1: :crazy1: :crazy1: Tho is starts on a dime now, first time every time !!!!!
I used a poor mans stethoscope like @nzenigma suggested a while back, but couldn't localize the sound, best i could pin point was left side of engine, back was nothing, right was nothing, top and front mostly nothing till you started getting to left side.
:spitty: :spitty:
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Hi Misha.
Went looking for you in Krakow :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Time passes so I will have to look at our past discussion. Glad the new injectors solved some problems.
Oil leak on left side will be the crank oil seal.. Quite doable job DIY :wink: