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Up until 30 Apr 2010 the OEMs were NGK, 36710-2A100 or Y527Jthen they went 36710-2A200 which are a Hyundai labelled YURA plug or Yuratech I think.Remove them with a warm motorHow did you confirm they're bad?Once you remove the glow plug plate, I'd go with a 12mm deep socket. It has a tall post on it. 1/4 drive may give a better feel with less torqueshop around, should be able to get a set for $100 genuine. I see some places charging $50 per plug for NGK GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay
I think either glow plug would work fine, anyway, it's a bit of an assumption that all 4 are bad. Would be handy to have some evidence of what is happening.I've just changed out a set mainly because one of mine was having a lumpy start. 1 of 4 plugs was actually burnt out.Did the set, still had a bit of a lumpy start.Have since had trouble getting it to fire like it use too. I wait for the glow to go, then a few seconds and crank and crank with no goturn off, start again and it fires up quicker.Crank is starting to sound weak, I suspect my battery is weak, had it tested today and only 390 cca for a rated 600 so it's on its way.Just saying, other things can contribute to the issue.You can go to any Supercheap and they'll do a free battery analysis
Got my multi-meter today and put negative to ground, then positive to each glow plug. All read between 0.5-0.8 ohms. Looks like an absolute pain in the arse getting behind the engine and removing them, checking them with the multi-meter was pain enough
Should clarify, just in case, have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltage
Quote from: tw2005 on April 29, 2019, 09:03:04Should clarify, just in case, have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltageYep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms. Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not
Quote from: Misha on April 29, 2019, 09:20:13Quote from: tw2005 on April 29, 2019, 09:03:04Should clarify, just in case, have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltageYep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms. Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not then in that case the value is not that helpful. With the metal plate connected this means all plugs are in parallel. If all 4 read individually 1 ohm then in theory with everything connected a reading of 0.25 ohm would be expected. Hard to tell if one or more plugs are bad doing what you've done.
Quote from: tw2005 on April 29, 2019, 09:46:18Quote from: Misha on April 29, 2019, 09:20:13Quote from: tw2005 on April 29, 2019, 09:03:04Should clarify, just in case, have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltageYep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms. Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not then in that case the value is not that helpful. With the metal plate connected this means all plugs are in parallel. If all 4 read individually 1 ohm then in theory with everything connected a reading of 0.25 ohm would be expected. Hard to tell if one or more plugs are bad doing what you've done.Cool beans, ill remove the wiring connector and cables and test them individually Didn't know this before .Do i need to disconnect the battery at all doing this ? or doesn't matter ?
Quote from: Misha on April 29, 2019, 10:19:59Quote from: tw2005 on April 29, 2019, 09:46:18Quote from: Misha on April 29, 2019, 09:20:13Quote from: tw2005 on April 29, 2019, 09:03:04Should clarify, just in case, have all the glows and wiring connected , then test voltageYep, everything was connected as normal. No wiring or cables or bolts where removed checking the ohms. Checked on a hot engine . Don’t know if that makes a difference or not then in that case the value is not that helpful. With the metal plate connected this means all plugs are in parallel. If all 4 read individually 1 ohm then in theory with everything connected a reading of 0.25 ohm would be expected. Hard to tell if one or more plugs are bad doing what you've done.Cool beans, ill remove the wiring connector and cables and test them individually Didn't know this before .Do i need to disconnect the battery at all doing this ? or doesn't matter ? So long as the car is off and it's put back how it was, should not be an issue. The ends of the plate are open so you won't have to remove the nuts completely, should save you from losing one into the never never. 10mm nut on the connectorThat's item 36720 in the image.Found this, have not read it yet. Testing and replacing glowplugs on a Hyundai i30 CRDi diesel engine
Yep, 1.23MΩ is as good as open circuit, given that most garden variety multimeters have an internal resistance of 2MΩ anyway. It's a only a factor of millions between plug 4 and the rest.
Job done, 2+hours of bending my knee's backwards was more than enough for one afternoon. Plug 2 and 3 came out with ease at ~12nmPlug 4 took a bit more coaching at ~25nmPlug 1 altho loosened at ~20nm was a huge pain as unscrewing it was a constant 12nm due to the carbon build up, even after the thread finished it was stuck and took a bit of coaching to come out.Re-tested old plugs and they all read identical ohms as before.Tested the new glow plugs, all around the 0.8-1.0Ω.Didn't have a reamer, but did best i could removing old carbon. Plug 1 was bar far the worst for carbon powder crap at the bottom, and hardened carbon around the thread.2,3,4 plugs went in fine with 15nm of force. But plug 1 I assume due to the carbon struggled to get down far enough, it still seems that its still about ~1 thread not in enough, but going past 15nm all the way to 20nm i wasn't going to push it any further. Started the engine up and she started smooth and just after the 2nd kick/turn. She was idling around the <800rpm mark where she should be, as opposed to jumping around between 950-1050rpm rough idling like it was before. But tomorrow morning will be the better test on a cold morning and cold engine. Cost of buying new stuff :$100 set of OEM glow plugs GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6 L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay$48 multimeter SCA Multimeter - Digital | Supercheap Auto$249 cw/ccw 10-135nm torque wrench http://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-boxtwd366-3-8-dr-digital-torque-wrench-13-5-135nmTotal :$400Considering the few places i checked quoted me between $400-$500AUD, I think i ended up on top. Plus now I have a torque wrench which I've wanted for ages
Quote from: Misha on May 02, 2019, 10:17:18Job done, 2+hours of bending my knee's backwards was more than enough for one afternoon. Plug 2 and 3 came out with ease at ~12nmPlug 4 took a bit more coaching at ~25nmPlug 1 altho loosened at ~20nm was a huge pain as unscrewing it was a constant 12nm due to the carbon build up, even after the thread finished it was stuck and took a bit of coaching to come out.Re-tested old plugs and they all read identical ohms as before.Tested the new glow plugs, all around the 0.8-1.0Ω.Didn't have a reamer, but did best i could removing old carbon. Plug 1 was bar far the worst for carbon powder crap at the bottom, and hardened carbon around the thread.2,3,4 plugs went in fine with 15nm of force. But plug 1 I assume due to the carbon struggled to get down far enough, it still seems that its still about ~1 thread not in enough, but going past 15nm all the way to 20nm i wasn't going to push it any further. Started the engine up and she started smooth and just after the 2nd kick/turn. She was idling around the <800rpm mark where she should be, as opposed to jumping around between 950-1050rpm rough idling like it was before. But tomorrow morning will be the better test on a cold morning and cold engine. Cost of buying new stuff :$100 set of OEM glow plugs GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6 L CRDI TURBO DIESEL ALL MODEL GLOW PLUG SET | eBay$48 multimeter SCA Multimeter - Digital | Supercheap Auto$249 cw/ccw 10-135nm torque wrench http://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-boxtwd366-3-8-dr-digital-torque-wrench-13-5-135nmTotal :$400Considering the few places i checked quoted me between $400-$500AUD, I think i ended up on top. Plus now I have a torque wrench which I've wanted for ages nice, The only concern I'd have is if that gummed up one which is lucky it came out, ok. if it has not seated , and gases get past it , then it's going to likely gum up again and could seize in there next time.maybe a ream out could be good idea now. I don't have one and took a gamble on mine but they were spotless coming out.Don't have the glow plug experience to comment much moreWell done