[Leeor]

I bought the car recently from a Lady driver.
The car vibrates when it idles in N gear and even more in D w/wo the AC on.
At the dealership I was tolled that it is normal and not to worry.  I am familiar with many other cars, and therefore I am not convinced that it is O.K.
investigating the problem gives the following info: 1) idle revs are 700; 2) cylinder compration difference under 4%; 3) engine mounts are O.K.
 I know that this topic was discussed before,  yet I didn't see a clear answer to the cause of this vibration. would increasing the idle revs solve the problem?
 

[Shambles]

Welcome to the forums, Leeor

would increasing the idle revs solve the problem?

You can probably answer that yourself... does the vibration stop when you tickle the throttle slightly?

[Dazzler]

Welcome Leeor. My wife has a MY11 2.0 manual CW. Haven't noticed this in hers.

See if you can find another 2.0 auto somewhere to compare with.

Does the transmission feel normal in operation? (It could be the Transmission) 

[asathorny]

Hiya Leeeor and welcome.

Ticking over at 700rpm sounds a wee bit slow to me, however you must take into consideration that I know nothing.  This never stops me from having strong opinions though 

I hope ya get it sorted out 

[Phil №❶]

Welcome Leeor,

700 is about right for an auto. Any higher and it will want to creep excessively. There is more than likely no adjustment available, as the engine's ECU, should be controlling idle speed. Take the car up to about 1500 rpm. with the bonnet open and have someone observe the engine, at those revs it should be nice and smooth. DO NOT LET THEM SAND IN FRONT OR DIRECTLY BEHIND THE CAR, EVER! or they could be seriously injured. Have them listen to the exhaust, it should be a continuous sound without any noticeable thuds from the pipe.

[Doggie 1]

Welcome to the forum. 
As suggested, maybe try it alongside a similar car and compare.

[Leeor]

First I would like to thank yo'all for the worm greetings and for the wide response.

Now in regards to your sagestions :
1)  Its a real problem to compare to a similar car since this was a special import all other cw's in Israel  have a 1.6l engines.
(even the dealership owner was adamant that i30 cw's have only 1.6 l eng's until I showed him the car licence)
2)  I tried to get the car to rev at 800-900 but it was nearly impossible - it went from 700 straight to 1500 no mater how gentel I tried to be with the pressure on the accelerator. Anyway, after allot of tries I got it to rev at 1000 - the vibration was less annoying at this frequency, but it was definitely there.
3)  in regards to the transmission if you might elaborate?  During driving it functions very smoothly - (areal treat after my Subaru Impreza)
4) I really wish to hear from Nesher who had the same problem with i30cw 1.6l   and had it remedied after an update to the ecu! Nesher are you still with us?                             

[Dazzler]

Leeor, Try sending Nesher a PM 

You could also try re-setting the ECU by disconnecting the battery for say 30 minutes minimum  (make sure you have the radio unlock code available though)

With the transmission, I have seen transmission issues reflected in this type of problem in the past but have no specific details ( not one of my cars or an i30) 

[Leeor]

I just came across this in Hyundai Forum:
Originally Posted by lawriemcf 
In recent times in the morning and after standing for a couple of hours the valve train is quite noisy.

The best answer here depends a lot on whether or not the engine has hydraulic lifters.

Assuming that it DOES, then the "fix" is often worse than the disease.

It is quite common for hydraulics to "stick" a bit when cold and then free up when hot. That is NOT a sign of any pending failure.

Do you think that it is the vibration I described previously?

[Leeor]

I did  but w/o reply from him.
Is he still active in the forum?

[Dazzler]

I just came across this in Hyundai Forum:
Originally Posted by lawriemcf 
In recent times in the morning and after standing for a couple of hours the valve train is quite noisy.

The best answer here depends a lot on whether or not the engine has hydraulic lifters.

Assuming that it DOES, then the "fix" is often worse than the disease.

It is quite common for hydraulics to "stick" a bit when cold and then free up when hot. That is NOT a sign of any pending failure.

Do you think that it is the vibration I described previously?

Hard to say without seeing/hearing it..

My wife's 2.0 CW manual wouldn't start one morning a year or so ago. We suspect a hiccup with the Immobiliser. When it did start after 5 or 6 attempts there was a knocking noise for a minute or two (like Tappets) but still no vibration as such. It has never done it again 

I did  but w/o reply from him.
Is he still active in the forum?

Give him a few days to respond (a PM will send a message to his email if it is still active - not everyone reads their emails daily)

He hasn't been on since March last year (but may still respond)

[Phil №❶]

No, I don't think so. If a lifter is stuck or collapsing, then there is a gap between 2 metal pieces that shouldn't be there, this produces a metallic tapping sound as the gap is reduced an the two metals impact on each other, similar to a clack, clack, clack sound. You are not describing this type of problem.

To get the vibration you're describing, I feel there would be a soft methodical repeated thud sound at the car's exhaust pipe, which would indicate a cylinder not producing power.

However, I would check & replace the oil & filter, because if a lady owned it, it may not have been driven at normal operating temperature for a long time. It's hard to say without knowing more of the car's history.

[Leeor]

Hi Phil,

I think that you got me on the right track. 
There is a "thudding" sound from the exhaust pipe.
The cylinder output is the same with a power diff'' less than 4%- which is acceptable.  So maybe the timing  or valve setting out of tune?

[Phil №❶]

@Leeor,

What distance has the car travelled, and what is the Hyundai warranty in your country 

[Leeor]

HI AGAIN phil!

First to let you know I Had email correspondence with Nesher. He doesn't know what they did with his car's computer, but he gave me his agency's name.

 Based on this info & all the clues I picked up from the forum, I arranged a meeting with a service manager at my agency.  Hopefully with all the info I'll lay down before him, he'll reconsider their previous verdict, that this problem is "normal".

In reply to your ? : the car did 53,000 km (warranty ends at 60,000)

[Phil №❶]

Good luck, keep us posted. 

[2i30s]

Hi Phil,

I think that you got me on the right track. 
There is a "thudding" sound from the exhaust pipe.
The cylinder output is the same with a power diff'' less than 4%- which is acceptable.  So maybe the timing  or valve setting out of tune?

welcome aboard.     it could just be dirty or stale fuel. 

[Dazzler]

Good luck, keep us posted. 

 

[Aussie Keith]

My 2c, rough idling is not normal under any circumstances these days given computerised engine management. Good luck with your visit to the dealer, here's hoping they actually investigate it properly for you.

[Leeor]

Hi everyone,
It's been a long while since I posted about the engine vibration.

Since then I've been to the dealer two times and talked to morons who told me that the vibes are "normal", etc.
Today, finally, I spoke with the top professional at the dealership. (he was long absant because of training abroad).
He acknowledged that there are vibes that are uncommon in other cars.
Theexplained that the source of the vibes is in engine load, ( AC, cooling fan, etc.), when the engine is idling  at 700 RPM. The RPM is preset at the factory and the engine vibes in this condition are within the margins that the car's computer was programed to ignore.  Therefor no malfunction was recorded by the data logger.

Within a day or two he is going to reinstall the computer program in my car. Otherwise he's going to consult the central Hyundai  importer  in Israel, about  requesting the manufacturer to send a computer file, to change the engine idle settings.

I think that now I'm on the right track. I'll keep you posted,

Leeor.

[Dazzler]

That sounds promising leeor (good luck)

[Phil №❶]

Nice for you NOT to be dealing with morons. I hope this solves your problem, we like our members to be very happy with their cars, but unfortunately, it's up to your dealer to ensure this happens. Thanks for the update, keep us posted.