[saus]

Hi,

I bought a new i30 1.6 CRDi Tourer on Oct 2012. I notice that the coolant level is below the Low Level already. I wasn't sure if I should go ahead and top it up with coolant, is there a required coolant/antifreeze that I should put in or should I just take it to the dealer. It would be inconvenient to have to drive the 30 miles to the dealership if I could just top it up myself. Can anyone tell me what coolant to top up with?

Thanks

[Phil №❶]

That would be dealer work for them to check. They need to work out why the level is low, might be something else requiring attention. 

  too

[Doggie 1]

  & welcome to the forum. 

[Keith]

I agree... get it looked at.
Never had to top up my coolant in 35,000 miles and 4 years (I had the car for the last 2)

Sooner rather than later too... dumping coolant equals dead engine.

I'll suggest another approach. First, how much below the low level? Is it possible it was low from the beginning?

I'd be inclined to initially watch it closely to see if it is getting lower, bearing in mind the level can change with engine temperature. If there is coolant in the overflow bottle at all times (even if low) then the cooling system itself will always be full and not in any danger.

If it isn't actually losing any coolant I'd just mention it at the next service. If it is then as above, see the dealer to sort out sooner than later.

[Asterix]

 

I agree with Pip.

Remember to check level when engine is cold. Write down milage and how much coolant you add. You can also just use tapwater.

If further loss occurs, then take it to the dealer.

Welcome to the forum, Saus.. 

[Keith]

I agree with Pip.

Remember to check level when engine is cold. Write down milage and how much coolant you add. You can also just use tapwater.

If further loss occurs, then take it to the dealer.

Welcome to the forum, Saus.. 

Really?
I think this needs clarifying, IMO it may be OK short term & for small top up's, but antifreeze also contains corrosion inhibitors which longer term should not be diluted below manufacturers recomendations.

[Asterix]

It doesn't matter if you use 40,50 or 60 % water, that just changes the point where the coolant freezes. Normal is about 50% coolant/50% tapwater. That will usually give a freezepoint around -25 to -30 ºC

Only thing is that you must not run only on water, because, as you said, the coolant contains anti-corrosion additives.

Take a look in your Owners Manual, I'm sure this is described somewhere.

Of course he should not poor 2 or 3 litres of water in it, without getting the car checked.

[2i30s]

my coolant level always shows its slightly low when cold,but when i look at the level when the engine is hot [normal running temp] it shows the level is OK.    if you slightly over fill the expansion bottle it will bleed out the overflow tube anyway,so it wont hurt. IMO. 

[Asterix]

my coolant level always shows its slightly low when cold,but when i look at the level when the engine is hot [normal running temp] it shows the level is OK.    if you slightly over fill the expansion bottle it will bleed out the overflow tube anyway,so it wont hurt. IMO. 

Agree.

It wouldn't be any concern for me either.

[bryanj86]

My car's coolant level occasionally goes down a tiny bit after a long and hard drive. I have never worried about it and the dealer said it was nothing to worry about as the car will get rid of any that is left over. Howeve, after 38,000km i have only needed to top it up like 100ml worth of water in the whole time. So nothing to worry about there.

I do recalll coming back from a Hyundai service once and they only filled the tank in my 2011 Diesel i30 so it was JUST showing in the tank. I was like HMMM. they filled it up at my request properly! haha!

[rustynutz]

The problem with topping up the coolant yourself is that you need to use the same coolant already used as mixing different coolants is a no no.... 

And if you decide to just top up with water, then you should only use "distilled" water, straight tap water is another no no....

[Asterix]

The problem with topping up the coolant yourself is that you need to use the same coolant already used as mixing different coolants is a no no.... 

And if you decide to just top up with water, then you should only use "distilled" water, straight tap water is another no no....

As long as it's same type of coolant, it's allright.

Why don't you think it's ok to use tapwater..?

I've used tapwater for the last 24 years...and we also used that at the various dealers I've worked at.

[rustynutz]

Why don't you think it's ok to use tapwater..?

I've used tapwater for the last 24 years...and we also used that at the various dealers I've worked at.

Tap water contains chlorine, which is added to kill bacteria (in Australia anyhow), and this is supposedly corrosive in cooling systems.
Tap water also contains minerals that can cause scaling..... 

[eye30]

I'd be surprised to find any garage using distilled water when they do a complete coolant change.

[AlanHo]

I'd be surprised to find any garage using distilled water when they do a complete coolant change.

Fill two glasses with water - one with tap water and the other with distilled water - and drop a new iron nail in each. Which one will show the most rapid rusting of the nail?

Now do the same experiment again - this time add a small piece of aluminium and a small piece of copper to each glass with the nail.

let me know how you get on..........

[Phil №❶]

Alloy head, iron block aluminium or copper in the head gasket 

[AlanHo]

Alloy head, iron block aluminium or copper in the head gasket 

You are going to need some huge glasses to get all them in for the experiment...............it will dwarf the nail.................

[Phil №❶]

For the purposes of demonstration, your experiment will do fine. 

[AlanHo]

COOLING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE (Diesel)

It is common belief that as long as the cooling system does not overheat, all is well.
However, many problems can develop due to poor cooling system maintenance that are not always accompanied by coolant overheating. Below is a list of some of these
problems:
• Low coolant temperature
• Solder Corrosion
• Cavitation corrosion of liners and water pump impellers
• Plugging of radiators and oil cooler cores
• Degradation of water pump seals and crevice seals
• Plugging of hoses and other coolant passages
• “Hot spots” that can cause piston scoring, cracked injector sleeves, and cracked heads.

Proper maintenance of the cooling system will control and/or prevent all of the above problems. The coolant for a diesel engine must have three (3) components: water, antifreeze, and corrosion inhibitor.
The main functions of the water/antifreeze mixture are to provide a good media for heat transfer and to provide freeze protection. The corrosion inhibitor’s job is to prevent deterioration of the various parts of the cooling system (radiators, liners, oil coolers, water pumps, etc.) Most antifreeze formulas have some corrosion inhibitors added, but these additives are not always sufficient to provide the protection required by diesel engines.

CORROSION PROTECTION:
The inhibitors in a coolant must prevent corrosion to steel, cast iron, aluminum, copper, brass, and solder. Galvanic corrosion of the cooling system can occur because all of these metals are in contact with the same solution (coolant). In galvanic corrosion, a chemical reaction occurs that essentially removes metal from one component and oxidizes (adds oxygen) to the metal in another component.

The best example of galvanic corrosion in cooling systems is the corrosion of solder (called “solder bloom”). In this reaction, the lead in the solder oxidizes. The increase in mass causes the solder to “bubble up” and choke off radiator and oil cooler tubes. The resulting reduction in coolant flow can be very damaging to the engine. Galvanic corrosion can also cause failure of radiator top and bottom tanks, injector sleeves, cooling system pipes and elbows, oil coolers, and radiator header plates.

CONTROL OF SCALE AND OTHER DEPOSITS:
Some chemicals in a coolant have a tendency to precipitate (drop out of solution as a solid) and deposit on the metal surfaces in the cooling system. If a scale of these deposits form on a liner or other critical heat transfer surface, the heat transfer process can cause “hot spots” resulting in head and block cracking, accelerated piston ring wear, scuffed cylinders and pistons, and burned valves. Hard water can often be the cause of scale build up on cooling system components. Corrosion inhibitors are designed to keep more of these scale formers in
solution.

CAVITATION PROTECTION:
Cavitation is a type of erosion-corrosion (usually called pitting) caused by the collapse of vapor bubbles at the surface of a vibrating liner or spinning water pump impeller. The bubbles form and collapse due to pressure variations at or near a rapidly moving surface. A cylinder liner vibrates because of piston slap as the piston moves up and down within the cylinder. The outside wall of the liner first moves away from the coolant, causing an area of low pressure near the liner surface. The low pressure then causes the coolant to vaporize and a bubble is formed. When the liner moves toward the coolant, the pressure increases greatly, causing the bubble to collapse. The pressure wave from the collapsing bubble weakens and blasts away the metal at the surface of the liner. The damage is both mechanical and corrosive in nature.
Corrosion inhibitors have ingredients that form a thin but tough layer of oxide on cast iron and steel surfaces. The collapsing bubbles only damage the oxide layer, which is quickly reformed. If the corrosion inhibitors are depleted considerably, or if there are air bubbles in the cooling system, a liner or water pump impeller can fail in 50,000 miles or less.

BUFFERING:
The pH of the coolant should be held in the slightly alkaline range of 8.5 to 10.5 to neutralize active blow-by gases that enter the cooling system. An alkaline pH of 11.0 or greater will result in corrosion to aluminum and solder, and an acid pH of 7.0 or less will accelerate corrosion of cast iron, steel, and aluminum. A low pH can also cause additive precipitation and breakdown. Chemicals are in corrosion inhibitors to maintain the pH of the coolant at the required level.

PREVENT FOAMING:
Foaming of the coolant can be caused by a number of cooling system problems, all of which result in entrainment of air or blow-by gases in the coolant. Whatever its cause, foaming can cause severe pitting of the liners and water pump impellers, increased corrosion rates, and greatly reduce cooling system efficiency. Antifoam agents are included in most corrosion inhibitors and antifreezes.
To perform their intended functions, the chemicals added to the coolant must remain in solution and not undergo unwanted side reactions. It is normal for corrosion inhibitors to deplete at a slow rate as they maintain a protective film on the metal surfaces within the cooling system. Field experience on the DCA inhibitor shows an average depletion rate of 0.3 to 0.4 oz./gal. in 10,000 to 15,000 miles. With this rate of depletion, the corrosion inhibitor must be periodically tested and the cooling system returned to the proper chemical concentration.
Inhibitor depletion can be accelerated by high coolant temperatures, high engine loading, excessive amounts of blow-by gas, leakage, or entrainment of air in the coolant, make up water with excessive mineral content, lubricating oil in the coolant, coolant leakage, a dirty system containing a large amount of corrosion products, precipitated inhibitors, and a low inhibitor concentration.
These solids, if present in the coolant, will increase corrosion rates, block thermostats open, cause plugging of radiator and oil cooler tubes, leave oily residues on critical heat transfer surfaces, and leave deposits on water pump face seals. Abrasive particles of core sand, silt or mineral scale will cause wear to water pump impellers and shafts, water pump face seals, crevice seals, and thermostats.

In summary, the cooling system is an integral part of the engine. Neglect of the cooling system means slow degradation of the engine.

(Excerpts from Cummins Engine Corporation technician training manual)

[Asterix]

Why don't you think it's ok to use tapwater..?

I've used tapwater for the last 24 years...and we also used that at the various dealers I've worked at.

Tap water contains chlorine, which is added to kill bacteria (in Australia anyhow), and this is supposedly corrosive in cooling systems.
Tap water also contains minerals that can cause scaling..... 

Ok. Here in DK we have fine quality tapwater. No additives added, all there's done is, it's aired and filtered, and then it's the finest drinkingwater. 

Maybe that's the reason we don't agree on this.

I'd be surprised to find any garage using distilled water when they do a complete coolant change.

[2i30s]

Alloy head, iron block aluminium or copper in the head gasket 

the 2.0 petrol i30 has an alloy block,not sure about the crdi. 

[Phil №❶]

Alloy head, iron block aluminium or copper in the head gasket 

the 2.0 petrol i30 has an alloy block,not sure about the crdi. 

I was just mentioning in general terms, not specific models or brands. 

[Keith]

Fluoride in UK water. 

Luckily mine stays around Max at all times.

[Kamele0N]

We have 2 i30

first 2008crdi second is 2011 1.4cvvt in both there was low coolant level from new    I don`t know if HY is economizing costs with low coolant level 

First advice always look colour of coolant....if its green/blue than buy green or blue ( they can be mixed! ). Other colours can not be mixed ( red-purple....others)

And always use destiled water......not because corrosion but to avoid mineral coating of your radiator.....and therfore poor cooling of your engine!

[Kamele0N]

my coolant level always shows its slightly low when cold,but when i look at the level when the engine is hot [normal running temp] it shows the level is OK.   

That is normal........it happens because our HY has "closed system" ( I don`t know if I translate that termin correct...that is how we say in slovenia  ) wich is circulating under preassure......sometimes thermostat closes system to soon ( after turning engine off) and some coolant stays trapped in cooling system