[StarSeeker]

Hi all

I have a 1.4 Petrol i30 built in the Czech Republic (2009) and wondered if any member has any idea what oil Hyundai may use on the initial oil fill?  The reason I’m asking is because since my first service, my tappets are noisier from cold and don’t quieten down as quickly as they did before my service

The oil used on my service was a 5W/30 viscosity, but have little doubt in my mind that this oil is not performing as well as the oil put in from new.  So I’m now wondering whether an oil viscosity other than 5W/30 was used at the factory and by changing back to it, would eliminate the tappet noise.

Any help appreciated.

[eye30]

I think this question has been the subject of a previous post and much discussion.

It seems that one answer was that the engine is filled up with what was in stock at the time the engine was ready for commissioning but who knows!"!!

You could try the search facility to see if it pops up.

[StarSeeker]

Hi eye30….I’ve searched all over this forum for this info, but had no luck.

I know others have had similar issues after the first service and being I did not have this tappet problem on the original oil, it would have been handy to know what oil they put in the car from new.

I’ll keep my fingers crossed that someone comes back with an answer

[eye30]

Hi eye30….I’ve searched all over this forum for this info, but had no luck.

I've also searched but like you couldn't find the thread.

The criteria I used produced many pages of results.

Will have to try and think of a key word which is unique to this thread otherwise it's just like searching for a needle in a hay stack  or in your case oil in an engine 

[Dazzler]

Have you had a chat with the dealer.. maybe they could suggest something??

Don't know if there is an oil additive from a respected supplier (Wynns) that would reduce the noise? I realise you shouldn't have to resort to that though..

[Lorian]

All I can remember is keywords.

https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=5297.0

I have no idea if the Hyundai petrol engines are like some others cars where if the oil is left to drain too long some air can get trapped in the hydraulic lifters. I guess if I had this issue I'd try the "typical" bleed procedure listed by some manufacturers which is something like: warm the engine up to normal temperature, then run it at 2,500rpm for 3 minutes in neutral with no load. No idea if it will help, but don't think it would hurt to try.

No warranty expressed or implied  

[StarSeeker]

Thanks for your replies and was given some information of oil used on the original fill, but the only info I got back was, they use 5W30 class SJ / SL or better?

@ Lorian:  Thanks m8y, but have doubts whether the bleed procedure would help, as the tappet noise does disappear completely when the engine is hot and would think if it was an airlock it would remain noisy all the time.  I will look further into your suggestion though.

Cheers

[Master_Scythe]

Most people arent happy mixing their own oil addatives into their sump (i personally DO, but thats me)

As such, I'd recommend the LiquidMoly range of oils, or HONDA oils, at hyundai's rated viscosity. (so some 0/5 - 30/40W)
Both have super ammounts of Moly as well as some Zinc and Phospherous.

Ever wondered why honda engines have a reputation for not breaking down, even though they're 'the ricer\hoon car'. Its the Moly.

Slightly off topic.....are the tappets in the 1.6 CRDI hydraulic? and therefore never need adjustment.

Slightly off topic.....are the tappets in the 1.6 CRDI hydraulic? and therefore never need adjustment.

I'm sure all current cars would use hydraulic tappets and this is why they make a very noticeable noise when the oil flow is insufficient to "fill the gap". Oil that is too thick when cold is suspect, particularly in a new car with no wear or oil artery blockage.

[Master_Scythe]

As a note, if you're not happy using honda oil in your hyundai, LiquiMoly Stop Tappet (or something like that) available at supercheap auto is amazing. My galant has hydraulic lifters, and it rattled almost worse than a diesel as i likesd to use 5-30W when it called for 15-50W in the manual (its old) one can of tappet stop noise and silence.

As a note, if you're not happy using honda oil in your hyundai, LiquiMoly Stop Tappet (or something like that) available at supercheap auto is amazing. My galant has hydraulic lifters, and it rattled almost worse than a diesel as i likesd to use 5-30W when it called for 15-50W in the manual (its old) one can of tappet stop noise and silence.

I would have expected the thinner oil to produce less tappet noise (if due to hydraulics failing to pressurise).

I had a '94 Galant so I'm guessing we had different models as mine specified 10w30 dino and had no tappet rattle at all. It did burn quite a bit though.

I know you have a stated interest in various additives but I recommend you curb this predilection and stick to an unmodified oil when you get the new car.

[Master_Scythe]

Thinner oil resulted in more noise because the lifters wouldnt HOLD their pressure. or so i was told.

To be honest i'm speaking purely from an experience standpoint here, not a research based one. So take my advice with less merit than my other posts with links to my research.


As for mixing my own addatives; I just bought my car (will make a thread soon), and will be using my oil.... MAINLY unmodified.

Simply, 0W-40 Castrol Edge, with half a can of LiquiMoly MoS2 (which is basicaly pure moly), say what you will about the dangers of 'mixing oils', before falling in love with the i30 I was a honda boy through and through.

Some of the Highest revving engines, most 'thrashed' engines by the owners, most expensive OEM oil, YET Longest lasting engines. The only difference is the moly content. I'll always boost mine a little.

Thinner oil resulted in more noise because the lifters wouldnt HOLD their pressure. or so i was told.

To be honest i'm speaking purely from an experience standpoint here, not a research based one. So take my advice with less merit than my other posts with links to my research.


As for mixing my own addatives; I just bought my car (will make a thread soon), and will be using my oil.... MAINLY unmodified.

Simply, 0W-40 Castrol Edge, with half a can of LiquiMoly MoS2 (which is basicaly pure moly), say what you will about the dangers of 'mixing oils', before falling in love with the i30 I was a honda boy through and through.

Some of the Highest revving engines, most 'thrashed' engines by the owners, most expensive OEM oil, YET Longest lasting engines. The only difference is the moly content. I'll always boost mine a little.

I've had the head off many cars (always did my own work) but none ever had hydraulic lifters so I speak without any experience. But I would think if tappet noise is when cold it cannot be due to thin oil as all oil is very thick when cold. It has to be, else it will be too thin when at operating temperature. Maybe if it's noisy when hot then low viscosity could play a part.

I (and many others) used moly when assembling an engine and it was so black and slippery it was sort of fun to use. I've also thought that the lower SAPS direction in oils might compromise the actual lubrication qualities so maybe you are right to add something to address this. The lack of DPF affords you some flexibility in your choice. This is not the case for Petrol engines as they all have a CAT filter.

[rustynutz]

Simply, 0W-40 Castrol Edge, with half a can of LiquiMoly MoS2 (which is basicaly pure moly), say what you will about the dangers of 'mixing oils', before falling in love with the i30 I was a honda boy through and through.

I'm curious, If LiquiMoly is so good, why would you not use their oil?  :-\

[Master_Scythe]

I would. if i could find it in australia.

I dont like to order car fluids.

[rustynutz]

I assume you tried this??

http://www.liqui-moly.com.au/?page_id=35

[2i30s]

there is some interesting stuff in that link. 

there is some interesting stuff in that link. 

Tell us what you found. I looked but must say I saw nothing that caught my eye. No offense to you or anyone else. Just curious as to what caught your interest.

[rustynutz]

The Rubbery Home Video's are worth a look.....if only to see a Datsun 120Y doing a burnout...

[2i30s]

there is some interesting stuff in that link. 

Tell us what you found. I looked but must say I saw nothing that caught my eye. No offense to you or anyone else. Just curious as to what caught your interest.

the oil products and their names,but the engine oil only comes in a 4ltr bottle.  :o

[Kamele0N]

I think that tappets are noisy because oil viscosity and lack of additives in xxW30 oils  ( Probably ACEA C3 for diesel DPF filters!)

Stay away from 5W30 oils unless you have CRDi with DPF filter wich needs ACEA C3 oil....

Why? Read this 2 threads:

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

The question of phosphorus and zinc.

Phosphorus (a component of ZDDP - Zinc Dialkyl-Dithio-Phosphate) is the key component for valve train protection in an engine and 1600ppm (parts per million) used to be the standard for phosphorus in engine oil. In 1996 the EPA forced that to be dropped to 800ppm and then more recently (2004?) to 400ppm - a quarter of the original spec. Valvetrains and their components are not especially cheap to replace and this drop in phosphorus content has been a problem for many engines (especially those with flat-tappet type cams). So why was the level dropped? Money. Next to lead, it's the second most destructive substance to shove through a catalytic converter. The US government mandated a 150,000 mile liftime on catalytic converters and the quickest way to do that was to drop phosphorous levels and bugger the valvetrain problem. Literally.
In the US, Mobil 1 originally came out with the 0W40 as a 'European Formula' as it was always above 1000 ppm. This initially got them out of the 1996 800ppm jam and knowledgeable consumers sought it out for obvious reasons. Their 15W50 has also maintained a very high level of phosphorus and all of the extended life Mobil synthetics now have at least 1000ppm. How do they get away with this? They're not classified as energy/fuel conserving oils and thus do not interfere with the precious government CAFE (corporate average fuel economy) ratings. (See my section on the EPA and fuel economy in the Fuel and Engine Bible for more info on this). This also means that they don't get the coveted ratings of other oils but they do protect your valvetrain. The same rule of thumb is true for racing oils like Royal Purple - because they're not classified as energy / fuel conserving, it would seem they still contain good quantities of ZDDP.
In fact, as a general rule-of-thumb, staying away from XX-30 oils and going to 10W-40 or higher might be the way to go if you have an older engine. 10W-40 and above is generally also not considered to be 'gas saving' and like the Mobil example above, doesn't mess with the CAFE rating

And 2nd thread:

http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf

So if you have engine with flat tappets use 5w40 or 10w40 oils! Especially diesel xxW40 oils have more aditives in them!!!! http://www.pureluckdesign.com/ferrari/f1engine/valvesystem1.jpg

Engines for C3 oils have roller tappets http://www.boattest.com/images-gallery/News/roller_valve.jpg

Cya!

[Dazzler]

Welcome KameleON

That is food for thought  I used to buy Castrol Edge Sport 5W-30 for our i30 CRDi and have a couple of 5 ltr containers left which will be used in the wife's 2.0 Ltr CW .. But sounds like I should get something different going forward...

[Kamele0N]

Well that is a little bit personal thing......if 5W30 oil doesnt make problems to your engine than don`t waste it...just use it!

I am just not keen of those "EKO" things in car industry.....because ecology here is more business orientated ( you pay extra for ECO oil....EKO gadgets...EKO whatever....), than orientated to serve to our planet!

[Dazzler]

Yeah, I agree.... Same as low fat stuff costs more   

[alfacruz]

Does the i30 engine have the flat or the roller type tappets?

Thanks! Excellent thread.

[Kamele0N]

Month ago i discovered one russian page  ( ceedonline.info )  Page is now banned....but google still finds it`s picture!

http://translate.google.si/translate?hl=sl&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fceedonline.info%2F

There were some service manuals for 2.0 petrol engine......and that engine has flat tappets....so I asume that all other petrol engines have the same type of tappets!

[Dazzler]

That's a good site.. I seem to be able to access most of it 

[alfacruz]

Thank you! I got the manuals; now I'm going to need understand some russian, or some pictures, or both.

I had the original oil changed to Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 (petrol 2.0 engine).

Still running the first petrol tank after changing oil, but now it is doing 9l/100km, against 12l/100km before, same driving conditions.