[kickininthefrontseat]

I have a spider but the instructions are rubbish

If you look at the image below
http://i.imgur.com/KDOWo.jpg

instructions say the connection is at B
only sockets near are at at C and D, but i couldn't undo them to check

I can see an exact match for the socket at A, photo shows it unplugged

anyone used a box or seen an install that confirm the plug to use

thanks

[kickininthefrontseat]

Boris explained it to me

go forward from A following the two thin tubes
go right from B, the plug is at the end of the silver pipe with the 5 inlets under the two thin tubes

problem now the plug is upside down and it's cramped
after 15 minutes pushing pulling and squeezing I still I can't undo it, sigh

[Dazzler]

problem now the plug is upside down and it's cramped
after 15 minutes pushing pulling and squeezing I still I can't undo it, sigh

Don't you hate that (In our house we call it a "Bailey" job) 

[Alasama]

FYI... this is my pic.
"1" is the box.
"2" and "3" were originally connected together. Now just separate them and connect each of them individually to the plugs which came with the box.

[Lakes]

Hi Kickin, sorry i can't help m8, just like to point out, your pic is of the newer U2 motor. i can see the turbo they mount higher on the U2 Alasama'a pic is of the U motor. i have both right now, just one point i thought i should say is the U2 are supposed to run higher pressures in the common rail than the U motor. that silver tube with the pipes attatched is the common rail. other than the higher mounted Turbo. everything looks the same, except the part # on the injectors are different. the U2 is supposed to run higher pressure injectors. be interesting to see how it works with the box.

[kickininthefrontseat]

thanks, I used multigrips and it popped straight off

U2 just has one plug with the other end disappearing into the works

I was with my wife driving this morning pre box and she made it feel like a truck
post box i went for a spin and it felt like a race car, but could be all in my head

i've asked the manufacturer if i should change the box settings due to the higher pressure

[Lakes]

i think the best way would be to try to find a good dyno with good opperator, then test it with out box then with box then try different settings till you find out whats working the best.
good luck

[ElleB]

Hi Guys,

 I am running the Spider unit so could do some photos and give some assistance, but I have no time for it until the weekend,.....sorry.  I will be away the next few days.
 Suffice to say  the clipping of the  plug that is at the end of the common rail was very hard.... it took me about 20 min to get it and the trick is the thumb grip on the underside of the original plug... ...it is hard to press and maybe that is why one of the contributors used a pair of multi grips..(   be careful).  !!
 I strapped my "black Box" to the runner line from the radiator to the reservoir and then ran the new wires along the  back of the radiator to the end of the common rail.
 Looks neat and keeps it out on the heat.

 Be careful which way up you connect the new and old plugs  they will attach upside down, in which case you will have nothing when you crank it over.... if that is the case simply unplug it, turn it over and re connect.

This is from the manufacturer.:
this is the "usual" mistake. You will find that the Bosch connector of your rail will fit to the Spider connector either way round, and should this be connected the "wrong" way round, the car will not start.
 
If you look at the plug on our lead, you will see it has a sloping lug on one side, the plug from your car should be connected so that the locking thumb lock slides up this lug and locks in to place.
 

 
 Re the various settings available...I have not had a change to "play" as yet... but hope to soon....... Talk to Mike at Spider...give him a call he is very obliging and friendly ( unless he is in the riots area    )

 The phone number direct from Australia  is :    call 0011 441482226615.

 Hope this helps    I will be back on the forum on the weekend   and see what I can contribute.

  Cheers

 Elle B

[Dazzler]

Hi elleb nice to see you !

[kickininthefrontseat]

attachment point FTR

spider didn't want to comment on the settings to use

I have the cables coiled and the box on the battery for now

Regarding legality in NSW, I asked and this seems to be the document that allows it, minor modifications with power increase of < 15%, My insurer just had a box to tick "Computer Chip" so that was easy.
To identify if modifications to your vehicle would place it in the prohibited vehicle category you should review the Vehicle Standards Information Sheet VSI 06 – Guidelines for light vehicle modifications.
If your vehicle meets the requirements of VSI 06 then it can be driven by a provisional driver. 
VSI 06 can be found on the RTA’s website at http://whome.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi_dl1.html

[Lakes]

Kickin, thats good info , i still think the best way is find a good dyno in your area. i also think probably one of the best chassis dyno's would be the Mainline like the guy that did the i30 ecu programing uses. if you done a google search you might find some listed.
other than that how does it feel compared to stock?
also have you noticed if it blows black smoke under excelleration?

[Lakes]

Here is a link i found to tunners that use the Mainline Dyno's, the guy that makes these dyno's used to work for MoTeC they are very highly regarded, these are an accurate dyno too
http://www.mainlineauto.com.au/dyno_centres/index.htm

[kickininthefrontseat]

Power delivery is creamy smooth, doesn't feel hot, just effortless, no smoke visible

I'll disconnect in a few day when I'm having some work done and re compare

the list shows a dyno around the corner, I may talk to them but it feels pretty good as is

[Lakes]

well thats good m8, the dyno is the quick safe way to find out what setting works the best as you can test wide open throtle with a controled load. on the street trying it too dangeriouse too hard specialy in traffic. once you know what setting works & what gain you have with different settings, you will have even more fun.
i use dyno's quite a bit with my bike.

[kickininthefrontseat]

I've carried out some more comparisons

without the box, car was nippy and responsive, loved driving it, didn't see the need for the box

with the box, car was nippy and responsive, loved driving it, thought the box was a great idea, decreased rpms by 500-1000 when giving it a kick

I don't believe the fuel test figures I'm getting, shows box is 1 L/100 worse

[Dazzler]

I don't believe the fuel test figures I'm getting, shows box is 1 L/100 worse

Does it make you drive more agressively...?

[kickininthefrontseat]

maybe, but i think a different bowser is the culprit
I'll put my L plater behind the wheel,
he doesn't know anything has changed so shouldn't change driving habits

[Lakes]

thanks for the update, fill her right to the very top, turn off trip then drive till fuel light fill up to the very top again. and work it out thats how i always did it with my SX 5 speed.
also wait till motor gets about 30,000k they start to free up & perform much better from there up. i can feel my new 6 speed still very tight only has 3,000k up. she gets great economy too been going 1,100+ k b4 refilling not worrying much how i drive.

[beerman]

I noticed my fuel economy went backwards when my engine loosened up, better acceleration led to more satisfying more aggressive driving. This was a subconscious thing on my part.

Since I have made a conscious effort to return to pre lose engine driving, the vehicle's economy has improved. 

As an aside, whats the RPM like at 110 and 120?

[kickininthefrontseat]

km/h rpm in 6th (approx, is out by a needle width)
100  2000
110  2250
120  2500

[beerman]

Thanks.

[kickininthefrontseat]

just for the record
4.8 over 750km then
5.8 over 950km same type of driving !