[myarken]

Hi, I own the first model Dec 2007 i30 manual petrol. I've got 127,xxx km's on the clock.

just last Saturday, after starting the car, and going about 100metres, to a stop. The gear was in 2nd and went to change it to 1st, and wouldn't budge. I turned the car off, released the clutch and tried again. it was ok. Was ok for the remainder of the 2hr drive home.

It's done it on/off again always when cold, until today. Has been worse today, 5 days later.  It doesn't matter what gear I attempt to select when it has the issue.

I know that manual gearboxes are sealed units. I spoken with my mechanic and he said to warm the car up to normal operating temperature and then take off. See how this goes over the next few days. He said, if it gets worse, it'll be a new gearbox. This was just over the phone, no mechanic has actually seen it at it's worst as yet.

I've always hopped in the car, and just gone, warmed it up a little.

I have no noises, no grinding, no issues at all ,other than when cold, it will not go into or out of gear, until it warms up.
Clutch still feels normal. The car power, is still at it's best.

Any ideas on what this might be?

I have my car service at the regular maintenance intervals but, obviously, as the gearbox is sealed, it's never had attention.

Much appreciated, I love the i30, would really like to keep it.

thanks,

[myarken]

I think it's very similar to...
Stiff gear change to 1st or reverse when starting the car (manual tr)

[Phil №❶]

The gearbox oil should be replaced by a reputable mechanic. Gearbox oil replacement seems to eliminate the stiff gear change and may fix your problem, too. Do not replace the oil yourself, unless you are sure you know what you are doing.

[myarken]

The gearbox oil should be replaced by a reputable mechanic. Gearbox oil replacement seems to eliminate the stiff gear change and may fix your problem, too. Do not replace the oil yourself, unless you are sure you know what you are doing.

That's impossible, manual's are sealed from the factory. Automatics aren't. Hence my dilemma.

[Phil №❶]

No they're not. 

[CraigB]

Manual gearboxes have a drain and refill plug just like anything else that requires oil, it's just harder to get to.

[myarken]

Really? I've been told that the manuals are sealed. auto's are not. on 2007 model. Hyundai, thought it was cheaper to seal & replace, rather than maintain.

be great it there is the ability to put fluid into it, as I know it'll fix it.

has it got anything to do with "tightened the gear linkage cables" per the other post?

thanks,

[Shambles]

The filler is hard to get to and requires pipe and funnel, apparently.

[myarken]

thanks everyone for their replies, I'll book it in and get them to sort it.

[CraigB]

There should be two 17mm bolts, one at the bottom is the drain and the fill bolt is halfway up on the radiator side, check your manual for amount of oil to be replaced or leave it for a good mechanic.

[rustynutz]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/muxw3uhsy84z2bf/Changing%20Transmission%20Oil.pdf?dl=0

[Lorian]

The filler is hard to get to and requires pipe and funnel, apparently.

You really have to get under and take the tray off, then with it on ramps its easy enough.

IIRC looking at that pic of the filler plug in the article posted, that seems to be a view by someone lying under the car, kinda side-ways on.

There are other possible explanations for the fault too.

[CraigB]

There are other possible explanations for the fault too.

As it's only happening when the vehicle is cold that's usually a sign that the oil is due for replacement, I bet it's also that anti friction grey sludge that Hyundai use put some good Dextron or if you can afford Redline transmission fluid in there

[Lorian]

Indeed, I used Castrol Syntrans because redline is expensive to get here in the UK, and only in 0.9L bottles, and my car uses 2L

[CraigB]

Indeed, I used Castrol Syntrans because redline is expensive to get here in the UK, and only in 1L bottles, and my car uses 2.1L

Yes it's not a cheap gear oil, about $20 per ltr here in Aus for the 75W-85 GL4, readily available at Coventry's but they'll try to rip you off, best prices are from leading performance outlets/mechanic trade prices or online.

[eye30]

The filler is hard to get to and requires pipe and funnel, apparently.

You really have to get under and take the tray off, then with it on ramps its easy enough.

IIRC looking at that pic of the filler plug in the article posted, that seems to be a view by someone lying under the car, kinda side-ways on.

There are other possible explanations for the fault too.

Not ramps which raise front only as you need level car to make sure oil is correct level.

When is service due?

If soon get it done then unless your mechanic will do it for you at minimum cost

[Lorian]

I have quite shallow ramps, and it was fine to get the 2L in without needing to check the level, ok if you know you are doing a full replace. The ramps just make the filler hole very slightly higher.

[Asterix]

I changed the gear oil in mine at around 180.000 km for the same issue; difficult gear change when cold. Made a significant change for the better.      I also used Castrol Syntrans

The filler is hard to get to and requires pipe and funnel, apparently.

That's what I did, took some time, but worth the effort.

[myarken]

I changed the gear oil in mine at around 180.000 km for the same issue; difficult gear change when cold. Made a significant change for the better.      I also used Castrol Syntrans

The filler is hard to get to and requires pipe and funnel, apparently.

That's what I did, took some time, but worth the effort.

Is your's an automatic or manual?

http://www.dropbox.com/s/muxw3uhsy84z2bf/Changing%20Transmission%20Oil.pdf?dl=0

Is this for automatic or manual?

thanks

[Johnno]

sometimes it can be sticking a synchro in the box

[Phil №❶]

http://www.dropbox.com/s/muxw3uhsy84z2bf/Changing%20Transmission%20Oil.pdf?dl=0

Is this for automatic or manual?

thanks

That is definitely for the manual gearbox.

[rustynutz]

 

[Just Rick]

The gearbox oil should be replaced by a reputable mechanic. Gearbox oil replacement seems to eliminate the stiff gear change and may fix your problem, too. Do not replace the oil yourself, unless you are sure you know what you are doing.

That's impossible, manual's are sealed from the factory. Automatics aren't. Hence my dilemma.

Sorry not sure who gave you that information,but it is wrong,I have replaced  myself and by Hyundai the gearbox oil in both our manuals,I had the same problem with the second I30 we bought within twelve months Hyundai said they could not find any issue with the gearbox,but did say they HAD drained and refilled the gearbox to the right level,fixed the issue(mine was sticking in 1st 3rd and 5th occasionally in reverse,personally I strongly suspect the dealership did not do a proper pre delivery in my case

[Asterix]

I changed the gear oil in mine at around 180.000 km for the same issue; difficult gear change when cold. Made a significant change for the better.      I also used Castrol Syntrans

The filler is hard to get to and requires pipe and funnel, apparently.

That's what I did, took some time, but worth the effort.

Is your's an automatic or manual?

http://www.dropbox.com/s/muxw3uhsy84z2bf/Changing%20Transmission%20Oil.pdf?dl=0

Is this for automatic or manual?

thanks

Mine's a manual and the link is also for a manual. 

[elantraelite]

A family member of ours has a Manual Hyundai Scoupe (old yes) and for a while it was hard to change gears. Didnt really do anything about. Then one day the gear selector cable snapped.
Replaced the selector cable and its perfect again. (As perfect as a 20 year old car can be)

The cable must have had a broken fiber and over time completely wore

[cruiserfied]

A family member of ours has a Manual Hyundai Scoupe (old yes) and for a while it was hard to change gears. Didnt really do anything about. Then one day the gear selector cable snapped.
Replaced the selector cable and its perfect again. (As perfect as a 20 year old car can be)

The cable must have had a broken fiber and over time completely wore

Mmmmm Scoupe

[elantraelite]

Haha, not the best screwed together Hyundai, but 20 years, 200,000km the only thing that  ever played up was the cable. Not bad when it was the first Hyundai with their in-house engine.

[Lorian]

The gear linkage cables on the i30 are pretty beefy, but still like a little lube, as well as a clean and lube of the selector on the top of the gearbox.

I know the OP said the clutch feels ok, but I'd still bleed it as a fist step anyway, as it's cheap and easy to do, as well as the gearbox oil change.

[Surferdude]

The gear linkage cables on the i30 are pretty beefy, but still like a little lube, as well as a clean and lube of the selector on the top of the gearbox.

I know the OP said the clutch feels ok, but I'd still bleed it as a fist step anyway, as it's cheap and easy to do, as well as the gearbox oil change.

Do you think you could provide some details on this?
Type of lubricant.  Access etc.

[Lorian]

The gear linkage cables on the i30 are pretty beefy, but still like a little lube, as well as a clean and lube of the selector on the top of the gearbox.

I know the OP said the clutch feels ok, but I'd still bleed it as a fist step anyway, as it's cheap and easy to do, as well as the gearbox oil change.

Do you think you could provide some details on this?
Type of lubricant.  Access etc.

1. Remove air intake above grill 2 x 10mm bolts
2. Remove air pipe
3. Disconnect battery (REALLY important as you don't want to fry the ECU)
4. Unlatch and disconnect 3x ECU connectors
5. Undo two bolts in rubber mounts to remove the airbox/ecu (I think they both came out together but don't really recall)

This is on a U2 diesel FD variant, it may vary on others.


Under there I:

1 .Cleaned the gear selector with cotton buds, I guess they are called something different in every country.

The main bearing surface appears to be Teflon/PTFE hard plastic so isn't desperate for lube, but a clean for sure.

Then lubed the bits on that that move with lithium spray avoiding the rubber boor. Have someone else move the gearstick while you watch to see where.

2. Pulled the rubber boots back on the two cables and lubed them with silicon grease.

see 6th picture in this auction for  clear view of the cable ends/boots:

KIA Ceed Cee'D Hyundai i30 Gear Box Linkage Selector Cables 1.6 CRDI *WARRANTY* | eBay

3. Took the split pins out of the two connectors. Cleaned washers and brass bearings, just a little silicon grease on these, mostly to inhibit rust that was starting to form on the washers. Again see the pic 5 in that auction.

Don't over do the lube on external surfaces as it will collect dust quickly. Only use high temperature melting point grease, and make sure you use rubber friendly lube where required (ceramic/silicon etc)

Reverse to put it all back together. Re-connect battery last of course, as already said, don't want to be frying the ECU.