[Phil №❶]

They had a duty to inform you that CC would be affected before the replacement IMO.

[SandRsSR]

I wonder how many of us now have our cruise control disabled due to this problem. Ours has now been 2 months with no word of the new brake light switch.

[Mike SX]

I wonder how many of us now have our cruise control disabled due to this problem. Ours has now been 2 months with no word of the new brake light switch.

Brake light switch replaced several times, also the complete cruise control & accelerator position sensor.

Still have major problems, currently using a Jaguar XJ8 in UK and Blue Drive VW Polo in Spain.

No warranty claims ever on either of these vehicles.

[Dazzler]

Very sad 

[The Gonz]

I wonder what exactly it is about the switch that causes this problem. There appears to be a big business opportunity to determine precisely how this is failing and to design, not a new switch, but a new inline debounce filter for any current switch.

[Surferdude]

I wonder what exactly it is about the switch that causes this problem. There appears to be a big business opportunity to determine precisely how this is failing and to design, not a new switch, but a new inline debounce filter for any current switch.

IIRC, there's been comment about how the CC won't activate unless you've touched the brake pedal since starting out.
So I guess the supplier of the new switch hasn't included this feature in their design.
Hence, CC won't activate.
Fortunately my dealership talked to me about it first and were happy to replace the faulty switch with another of the old design. They tend to work for some time before failing so the daeler and I are happy to wait now for the new upgraded replacement switch (for which Hyundai has NOT given them a projected delivery date).

[The Gonz]

Yeah, no surprise there. I got caught out thinking my CC had failed during a hot spell of weather and that's when I discovered a press of the pedal would reset it, although I suspect the hot weather was maybe making it fail until some cooler air had blown across the switch.

However, a switch is a switch. It just closes to make a contact. If anyone can post pictures and/or details of both types of switch, we may be able to come up with a solution.

I still don't see how a 'new v old' design of switch can make any difference, and the stories of persistent problems lend weight to this observation.

Bring on the tech info! 
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Well, that was disappointing. I just did a quick search and the switch looks like nothing more than a common plunger type with adjustment via a nut on the shaft thread. It appears to have four spade connectors. Can anyone access info about how they're connected? Is this simply a case of two for the brake light circuit and two for the CC or is there more to it?

[Surferdude]

Yeah, no surprise there. I got caught out thinking my CC had failed during a hot spell of weather and that's when I discovered a press of the pedal would reset it, although I suspect the hot weather was maybe making it fail until some cooler air had blown across the switch.

However, a switch is a switch. It just closes to make a contact. If anyone can post pictures and/or details of both types of switch, we may be able to come up with a solution.

I still don't see how a 'new v old' design of switch can make any difference, and the stories of persistent problems lend weight to this observation.

Bring on the tech info! 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well, that was disappointing. I just did a quick search and the switch looks like nothing more than a common plunger type with adjustment via a nut on the shaft thread. It appears to have four spade connectors. Can anyone access info about how they're connected? Is this simply a case of two for the brake light circuit and two for the CC or is there more to it?

I can't claim to understand how electronics work internally but it seems logical to me that there would be some sort of internal sensor which records when the brake pedal is depressed and sends a signal to the CC unit, activating it for use. And in the new switch they've left that sensor out.

[The Gonz]

Thanks, 'dude, but the switch is bound to be pretty simple internally. The plunger just moves in past some contact surfaces making a connection between pairs of switches.

The trick is to understand what's going wrong with the switch in the first place and what's different about the new switch - probably not enough because they still seem to fail.

Where the wiring is going would be good to know. Also, if the CC needs the closing of the switch to initialise it, then removing that part of the circuit just means your CC will never work, and leaving it closed likewise since that's also a disengage signal to the CC.

I just haven't had anyone explain what the actual fault is. If the brake lights are not failing to illuminate on pedal press, then I suspect it's just mechanical failure of the switch where the CC pair of contacts is concerned - if that's how the contacts are arranged and not working off the same pair.

----()----()----
|        |=========
----()----()----

Can anyone look at a failed switch and let me know?

Gonz, I would say that you are looking at a simple 2 pole switch. One pole for the brakes and one for the CC. When mine failed, from memory, there was no problem with the brake lights but CC would not set suggesting two isolated functions.

[Mike SX]

I wonder how many of us now have our cruise control disabled due to this problem.

My Cruise Control had never failed to engage or operate

[Phil №❶]

The only way to deal with this situation is to break a faulty one apart and find out what's failing. As no one has a faulty one to test, I suspect if there are two pairs of contacts, that the CC fault must be mechanical. My reasoning is, that it is a logic signal that is required to trip the CC and is either a very low current or possibly a simple grounding situation, neither of which cause heating or arcing of the contacts.

When our car comes up for service, they won't be replacing any brake switches unless they can guarantee CC is going to work, I use it a lot.

[2i30s]

When I was at a Hyundai dealer yesterday to get my cars air conditioning repaired, I overheard one of the staff talking to another client with an earlier model i30 that was getting the brake light recall fix done. She asked if the car had cruise control, stating that if it did, they wouldn't be able to replace the brake switch. I didn't hear the conversation properly, but it sounded like they had to get another type of switch in if the car had cruise control.

100% correct,a car fitted with CC has a different update brake light switch.    dealers are changing them during our services and letting you know it was a recall and its free. my hatch was done on its last service and at the wife's cw service one wasn't  in stock ,because of it having CC.  about a month ago the wife was contacted by our dealer saying he now had stock of the CC brake light switches and could she bring in her car for a free switch replacement. this was Dandenong Hyundai.

[The Gonz]

My confidence that the CC type switch is a double pole plunger switch is high. A non-CC variant is likely to be single pole with just the two contacts but unless the plug shape changes, the CC type can probably work universally, just missing the CC cable.
BTW, my car has never had the problem despite being identified as a candidate, and I've had no switch replaced since I bought it.

[Mike SX]

a car fitted with CC has a different update brake light switch.

I often wonder whether mine had the correct switch fitted, the Cruise Control was dealer fitted prior to my collection, maybe they failed to update the switch

Incidentally, i30 CRDi - 18/176 weeks unusable/unreliable due to faults.
                   i20 CRDi - 0/176 weeks - no faults at all.

[Phil №❶]

 

[eye30]

there's been comment about how the CC won't activate unless you've touched the brake pedal since starting out.

I've never had to do this on my car

[2i30s]

here is the part# 93810-3KR0CQQH  as fitted too the wife's 6/09 2.0 petrol auto with cruise control. can anyone that's recently had a brake light switch replaced that doesn't have cruise control post the part# on their receipt. 

[Mike SX]

[quote ]there's been comment about how the CC won't activate unless you've touched the brake pedal since starting out.

I've never had to do this on my car
[/quote]

Neither have I.

[The Gonz]

Hmm, so a few of us who thought it was normal might have to chase a new switch.

[Mike SX]

Hmm, so a few of us who thought it was normal might have to chase a new switch.

The Plot thickens

[rustynutz]

When our car comes up for service, they won't be replacing any brake switches unless they can guarantee CC is going to work, I use it a lot.

According to my dealer, the cruise / brake light switch problem only affects petrol models... 

[Phil №❶]

Why, but I'm happy if it does. 

[rustynutz]

He didn't offer a reason....   

[2i30s]

here is the part# 93810-3KR0CQQH  as fitted too the wife's 6/09 2.0 petrol auto with cruise control. can anyone that's recently had a brake light switch replaced that doesn't have cruise control post the part# on their receipt. 

i checked my recent service receipt,and guess what.  here is the part# 93810-26ROBQQH  as fitted too my my 1/09 2.0petrol manual without cruise control,there is a different switch according too our service receipts for brake light switches replaced.    both were changed in the last 6 weeks.

[Surferdude]

[quote ]there's been comment about how the CC won't activate unless you've touched the brake pedal since starting out.

I've never had to do this on my car

Neither have I.
[/quote]
But guys, the whole point of these discussions was that their CC wasn't responding to the "On" switch.
Apparently this is a safety factor that requires the brake pedal to have been used once since you started out before the CC will activate.
It would be very rare that you would start your car and drive enough distance to be wanting to use the CC, without needing to brake along the way. So you need to try this before you can say you "haven't had to do that" ie. Stop on the highway. Turn your engine off, restart and accelerate up to a reasonable speed, being careful not to touch the brake pedal. Then set the CC.
When guys started speculating on this on here a while back, I tried it and agree the CC (at least the factory fitted - not dealer fitted, after market version) doesn't sctivate until the brake pedal has been depressed at least once.

[Surferdude]

a car fitted with CC has a different update brake light switch.

I often wonder whether mine had the correct switch fitted, the Cruise Control was dealer fitted prior to my collection, maybe they failed to update the switch

Incidentally, i30 CRDi - 18/176 weeks unusable/unreliable due to faults.
                   i20 CRDi - 0/176 weeks - no faults at all.

If your CC was "dealer fitted", it's not a factory unit which is what we're talking about here. Yours will be an after market type. The factory fitted units happen on the assembly line.

[eye30]

Apparently this is a safety factor that requires the brake pedal to have been used once since you started out before the CC will activate.
It would be very rare that you would start your car and drive enough distance to be wanting to use the CC, without needing to brake along the way. So you need to try this before you can say you "haven't had to do that" ie. Stop on the highway.

Just to confirm my initial comment.

Earlier I left the house, joined the motorway and at 65 mph activated CC.

Not once did I stop  or touched the brakes until I was leaving the motorway some 8 miles later.

[Surferdude]

Apparently this is a safety factor that requires the brake pedal to have been used once since you started out before the CC will activate.
It would be very rare that you would start your car and drive enough distance to be wanting to use the CC, without needing to brake along the way. So you need to try this before you can say you "haven't had to do that" ie. Stop on the highway.

Just to confirm my initial comment.

Earlier I left the house, joined the motorway and at 65 mph activated CC.

Not once did I stop  or touched the brakes until I was leaving the motorway some 8 miles later.

Ok. Well it seems we have different results from different cars.
I might check mine again now the switch has been replaced.

[Phil №❶]

I was going to test ours tomorrow, but I realised that on reversing out of the drive, the brake is applied to stop and select D to move forward, so our CC would probably engage.