i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: chrisnka on August 03, 2018, 16:42:03
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Roughly how much should it cost to have the oil cooler tested and replaced if a leak is found. We have been quoted £244 plus parts. Oil in coolant and head gasket passed the test.
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Roughly how much should it cost to have the oil cooler tested and replaced if a leak is found. We have been quoted £244 plus parts. Oil in coolant and head gasket passed the test.
Is this a manual or auto?
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It's a manual
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No experience with the cooler, could it be simply the gasket or the could be O-rings
Cooler to filter body
1 x 263132A500 (26313-2A500) - O-RING CENTER PIPE
2 x 263142A500 (26314-2A500) - SEAL-OIL
Filter body to block
1 x 263112A510 (26311-2A510) - GASKET-OIL FILTER
entire filter assembly
If you get that,should include all items in that window, seals gaskets filter element, then cooler is separate item to bolt on
263102A510 (26310-2A510) - FILTER ASSY-OIL
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/DUUAAOSw3h5aedB0/s-l1600.jpg)
:link: Genuine Kia Sportage/Rio/Ceed/ Oil filter assy 263102A510 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Kia-Sportage-Rio-Ceed-Oil-filter-assy-263102A510-/132496165215)
(https://hyundai.7zap.com/ImgsWatermark/Imgs/Cats/HEURPJDH/20213C11.png)
264102A300
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/X0gAAOSw7bpZkYkj/s-l1600.jpg)
(http://www.koraps.com/udz/attachment.php?size=B&it_id=1438993)
:link: KIA SPORTAGE 1 SL 2010-2014 2WD 1.7 CRDI OIL COOLER 264102A300 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/KIA-SPORTAGE-1-SL-2010-2014-2WD-1-7-CRDI-OIL-COOLER-264102A300/163183307397?hash=item25fe7baa85%3Ag%3A5CgAAOSwnEtbPMS6&_sacat=0&_nkw=264102A300&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313)
(https://static.baza.farpost.ru/v/1518824424373_bulletin)
:link: Oil Filter Housing Hyundai ix35 Tucson TLE 1,7 CRDi D4FD 26410-2A300 EN236563 | eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Filter-Housing-Hyundai-ix35-Tucson-TLE-1-7-CRDi-D4FD-26410-2A300-EN236563/322658983265?hash=item4b1ff95d61:g:SqQAAOSwPdRZlvNd)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/SqQAAOSwPdRZlvNd/s-l500.jpg)
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It's a manual
excludes possibilty of trans fluid then.
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also wonder since filter body is plastic is a crack in that could lead to oil entering the water piping
Price wise you'll just have to use those part numbers and work it out.
That filter body assembly might be good value regardless in the long run
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We have had the head gasket checked.
The garage carried out a test and it passed that so we can rule the gasket out. Hey pretty sure the engine itself is fine after that.
He has said there's no visual signs of leakage on the oil cooler however it could be internal hence the reason for sending that away to get pressure tested.
I'm really hoping it does come back as the cooler and get to the bottom of it. Can't afford to throw money at different parts.
Thanks for the very detailed information and I'll pass it on if the pressure test on the oil cooler comes back clean.
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(https://preview.ibb.co/hxJdJz/oil_filter.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cgw9Qe)
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Roughly how much should it cost to have the oil cooler tested and replaced if a leak is found. We have been quoted £244 plus parts. Oil in coolant and head gasket passed the test.
Simple and cheap remedy is to go to a wrecker and get another one. Easy enough to fit DIY.
If head gasket was passed, presume that was due to a cooling system pressure test, which should have picked up a leak in the cooler.
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It was a Hydrocarbon test they did for the head gasket so I'm not sure if that would have pulled the oil cooler up. I'm no mechanic though.
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It was a Hydrocarbon test they did for the head gasket so I'm not sure if that would have pulled the oil cooler up. I'm no mechanic though.
Interesting, anything like this?
:link: Hydrocarbon Testing for Blown Head Gasket - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j29uTux7AXY)
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I wasn't there to witness it but yes that's the test.
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What's interesting is you guys get a plastic body, ours is alloy, wonder why? Tolerances in extreme cold?
(http://koraps.com/udz/attachment.php?size=S&it_id=322332)
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If we assume it's in this area that the contamination is occurring if I had to guess which part my gut tells me the plastic body is more likely to deteriorate and hairline fracture than the cooling element.
It will be interesting to see where this ends.
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If we assume it's in this area that the contamination is occurring if I had to guess which part my gut tells me the plastic body is more likely to deteriorate and hairline fracture than the cooling element.
It will be interesting to see where this ends.
I am interested too. At the end of the day I am also hoping it is the cause as if it isn't I suppose it could then be pointing to a crack in the head or block which we don't want. I'm not sure if the hydrocarbon test would have picked this up or not.
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What's interesting is you guys get a plastic body, ours is alloy, wonder why? Tolerances in extreme cold?
Possibly its a Czech unit and Korean are different. The plastic units are on BMW etc.
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If we assume it's in this area that the contamination is occurring if I had to guess which part my gut tells me the plastic body is more likely to deteriorate and hairline fracture than the cooling element.
It will be interesting to see where this ends.
I am interested too. At the end of the day I am also hoping it is the cause as if it isn't I suppose it could then be pointing to a crack in the head or block which we don't want. I'm not sure if the hydrocarbon test would have picked this up or not.
Yes, Will be interesting. To my knowledge, the water only flows through the metal cooler, the plastic part has no water galley. ??? :undecided:
The hydrocarbon test simply demonstrated two knowns: 1. the Jeep diesel motor is to be avoided.
2. Gas bubbles appear at the coolant filling point ( radiator or bottle cap) if there is an internal leak, the same thing is achieved by filling that cooling unit to the brim with water and watching for bubbles.
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If we assume it's in this area that the contamination is occurring if I had to guess which part my gut tells me the plastic body is more likely to deteriorate and hairline fracture than the cooling element.
It will be interesting to see where this ends.
I am interested too. At the end of the day I am also hoping it is the cause as if it isn't I suppose it could then be pointing to a crack in the head or block which we don't want. I'm not sure if the hydrocarbon test would have picked this up or not.
Yes, Will be interesting. To my knowledge, the water only flows through the metal cooler, the plastic part has no water galley. ??? :undecided:
The hydrocarbon test simply demonstrated two knowns: 1. the Jeep diesel motor is to be avoided.
2. Gas bubbles appear at the coolant filling point ( radiator or bottle cap) if there is an internal leak, the same thing is achieved by filling that cooling unit to the brim with water and watching for bubbles.
That makes no sense. There's 2 oil ports and 1 water in that cooler body, if water goes in it has to go out so it does go through the filter assembly . whether is possible for the casing to fail and lead to the mix?
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This is my interpretation,
(https://preview.ibb.co/d4G7Dz/oil_assm.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iMdb6K)
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If we assume it's in this area that the contamination is occurring if I had to guess which part my gut tells me the plastic body is more likely to deteriorate and hairline fracture than the cooling element.
It will be interesting to see where this ends.
I am interested too. At the end of the day I am also hoping it is the cause as if it isn't I suppose it could then be pointing to a crack in the head or block which we don't want. I'm not sure if the hydrocarbon test would have picked this up or not.
Yes, Will be interesting. To my knowledge, the water only flows through the metal cooler, the plastic part has no water galley. ??? :undecided:
The hydrocarbon test simply demonstrated two knowns: 1. the Jeep diesel motor is to be avoided.
2. Gas bubbles appear at the coolant filling point ( radiator or bottle cap) if there is an internal leak, the same thing is achieved by filling that cooling unit to the brim with water and watching for bubbles.
That makes no sense. There's 2 oil ports and 1 water in that cooler body, if water goes in it has to go out so it does go through the filter assembly . whether is possible for the casing to fail and lead to the mix?
That makes even less sense.
Cooler has oil in & out ( "2 oil ports") " and 1 water", you assume water flows 'in and out ' of the cooler and assume that the flow is via the filter body. How can it get in and out of the filter body if water ports do not exist?
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If we assume it's in this area that the contamination is occurring if I had to guess which part my gut tells me the plastic body is more likely to deteriorate and hairline fracture than the cooling element.
It will be interesting to see where this ends.
I am interested too. At the end of the day I am also hoping it is the cause as if it isn't I suppose it could then be pointing to a crack in the head or block which we don't want. I'm not sure if the hydrocarbon test would have picked this up or not.
Yes, Will be interesting. To my knowledge, the water only flows through the metal cooler, the plastic part has no water galley. ??? :undecided:
The hydrocarbon test simply demonstrated two knowns: 1. the Jeep diesel motor is to be avoided.
2. Gas bubbles appear at the coolant filling point ( radiator or bottle cap) if there is an internal leak, the same thing is achieved by filling that cooling unit to the brim with water and watching for bubbles.
That makes no sense. There's 2 oil ports and 1 water in that cooler body, if water goes in it has to go out so it does go through the filter assembly . whether is possible for the casing to fail and lead to the mix?
That makes even less sense.
Cooler has oil in & out ( "2 oil ports") " and 1 water", you assume water flows 'in and out ' of the cooler and assume that the flow is via the filter body. How can it get in and out of the filter body if water ports do not exist?
have you looked at my last image yet?
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If we assume it's in this area that the contamination is occurring if I had to guess which part my gut tells me the plastic body is more likely to deteriorate and hairline fracture than the cooling element.
It will be interesting to see where this ends.
I am interested too. At the end of the day I am also hoping it is the cause as if it isn't I suppose it could then be pointing to a crack in the head or block which we don't want. I'm not sure if the hydrocarbon test would have picked this up or not.
Yes, Will be interesting. To my knowledge, the water only flows through the metal cooler, the plastic part has no water galley. ??? :undecided:
The hydrocarbon test simply demonstrated two knowns: 1. the Jeep diesel motor is to be avoided.
2. Gas bubbles appear at the coolant filling point ( radiator or bottle cap) if there is an internal leak, the same thing is achieved by filling that cooling unit to the brim with water and watching for bubbles.
That makes no sense. There's 2 oil ports and 1 water in that cooler body, if water goes in it has to go out so it does go through the filter assembly . whether is possible for the casing to fail and lead to the mix?
That makes even less sense.
Cooler has oil in & out ( "2 oil ports") " and 1 water", you assume water flows 'in and out ' of the cooler and assume that the flow is via the filter body. How can it get in and out of the filter body if water ports do not exist?
have you looked at my last image yet?
Yes, I see your faux pas. :whistler:
Cooler has 2 water ports.
Therefore @chrisnka cannot be sure which unit is leaking. The plastic will probably be more expensive new. Best to go to a wrecker and get the whole unit with cooler attached.
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I've highlighted the water points on the filter body
It's cheaper than the cooler element if that unit I linked on Ebay is purchased
A used one is a worthy option, also linked a very cheap one 15GBP plus the same assembly is used on a multitude of models including the 1.7L CRDi
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(https://preview.ibb.co/iWGk0e/oil_galleries.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kghQ0e)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kT5TLe/Untitled.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iXM2fe)
(https://preview.ibb.co/i2yLYz/base.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hOOXfe)
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So it is the oil cooler that is causing the problem. A new one from hyundai is £190!!! Total cost £560!!!! It is an expensive repair.
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He hasn't said which part of the oil cooler that has failed as its still at the testing centre. I will try to find out though
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So it is the oil cooler that is causing the problem. A new one from hyundai is £190!!! Total cost £560!!!! It is an expensive repair.
I'd be giving a used one a go or use the part number and order from koraps in korea if you can wait
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They will only use new parts at the garage its in. I've contacted hyundai directly who confirmed the parts price at that. We are just going to go with it anyway but I was certainly not expecting it to cost that much that's for sure. I'm sure if we took it to a backstreet garage it would have been less but may have been an old 2nd hand part with no guarantee so I suppose it is what it is.
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They will only use new parts at the garage its in. I've contacted hyundai directly who confirmed the parts price at that. We are just going to go with it anyway but I was certainly not expecting it to cost that much that's for sure. I'm sure if we took it to a backstreet garage it would have been less but may have been an old 2nd hand part with no guarantee so I suppose it is what it is.
Bummer, just did a cost comparison if you ordered the part ex Korea.
IN GBP
30.57 part
0.91 3% duty
22 shipping
53.49 sub total
10.7 VAT
64.19 total to your door if I have the correct info on your duties and taxes foir the cooler and you'd also want to order those O-Rings
(https://preview.ibb.co/c7xbve/cooler.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jBKZgK)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dOLwve/cooler_2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ci1Qoz)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kRAJ8z/cooler_3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nzmrTz)
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It's crazy the price difference. It does say upto 2 weeks for delivery, we don't have time to wait unfortunately but I will definitely keep this site in mind as we are going to need a new clutch soon. Might be a bit more costly.
Thanks for the information though its invaluable
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It's crazy the price difference. It does say upto 2 weeks for delivery, we don't have time to wait unfortunately but I will definitely keep this site in mind as we are going to need a new clutch soon. Might be a bit more costly.
Thanks for the information though its invaluable
It's always worth a comparison, bulky items may not work out as great, I believe the OEM was Valeo
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It's crazy the price difference. It does say upto 2 weeks for delivery, we don't have time to wait unfortunately but I will definitely keep this site in mind as we are going to need a new clutch soon. Might be a bit more costly.
Thanks for the information though its invaluable
Obviously, cooler still at the 'testing centre' (at the back of the workshop) means you aint getting the car back without a bill.
This leak is rare. While tw has commented on the plastic part, from my experience, they are common to Euro cars including German brands like Opel and BMW. The likelihood of a 2nd hand one being a dud is slight.
You may want to search here for info on the diesel clutch and find cheap repairer, before you put your head in another noose.
Yorkshire's back street repairers don't have feel good frontages that YOU pay for. They are often more capable and compliant mechanics than at the high overhead main street operations. The only difference, backstreet, is that you have to wipe your own bum when you use their 1800's thunder box toilet. :twisted:
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She's all done and back home. Costly learning experience but at least its done.
Thank you for all your help.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/a99581e4268d268bbf3bd186821ca2b0.jpg)
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She's all done and back home. Costly learning experience but at least its done.
Thank you for all your help.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/a99581e4268d268bbf3bd186821ca2b0.jpg)
A fine looking specimen indeed. :goodjob2:
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Does look good. We appreciate your reply. Best wishes.G.