[DarraghR]

Hi guys. Can anyone tell me how to adjust the front nozzles? I replaced the pump which helped with the pressure but it wont spray anywhere near the middle windscreen.

Also would my i30 have a separate rear pump as now no water is coming from the back and was quite weak before anyway.

[eye30]

Can't adjust

The tubes may be slightly blocked so try blowing thro to remove any sludge.

Open bonnet and trace the tube you will find a joiner.

Open hatch and you will find joiner.

Split and using pump blow air thro or if you can have try water till it flows clear.

Did you clean out the tank when fitting new pump?

[BrendanP]

When the rear washer on my 2011 diesel stopped working, I found this was due to an inline non-return valve that is fitted under the headlining at the rear of the car. At least, I think it's a non-return valve as it contained a spring and a tiny piston. Anyhow, I took the spring and piston out so it was now just an inline coupler, pushed the ends of the tubes back onto it and it has worked fine ever since.

If you try and clear a blockage in the washer fluid tube to the rear with compressed air, and this valve is blocking the flow, you run the risk of blowing the tube off. Then, when you try the rear washer, it will be squirting water into the roof lining.

[DarraghR]

I didnt clean out the tank when fitting the pump. Does that involve removing the whole water tank?

Water seems to be coming out fine with nozzles off.

Have ordered a new set of nozzles to see if they are the problem.

x2 Front Windscreen Washer Nozzle Jet Fit For Hyundai i30 Kia Cadenza 10-16 | eBay

[BrendanP]

I think if you remove the front offside wheel and wheel arch liner you can get to the pump and remove it from the tank, then rinse the tank out with hot water. I once had a Rover 75 with washers that wouldn't work, and I found that the water in the tank had turned into a thick gloopy jelly that couldn't be pumped. Not sure what caused this but the owner did use an eco-friendly dish washing liquid instead of screenwash. With the pump removed the gloop slowly oozed out through the aperture like a dead jellyfish. After rinsing it out with hot water everything worked with the pump refitted. Needless to say, I don't put anything in the washer bottle apart from water and proper screenwash.

[sundiz]

Plain water starts to create that some sort of slime on the surface of the reservoir. Feels slippery in your fingers. What ever that slime is... Good washer fluid keeps the pipes and reservoirs clean.

There was once case where new owner put new fluid after buing used car. Washer stopped working. New fluid removed all the slime from the reservoir and it was sucked in the pump, which broke.

I use quite heavy solution through the year. Even in summer I have -20*c fluid in the tank. Once forgot to put winter fluid in my first car after the summer and the fluid froze. After that I've only used heavy solution with low freeze temp. Never had washer fluid issues after that (knock on wood).

[DarraghR]

I got some washer fluid in Halfords but will look around for a recommended one for clearing dirt.

I may have damaged the nozzles with a pin so need to source new ones soon as my NCT is early January.

Where might I find a set that will arrive this year? Ordered on ebay and its saying Feb 2021 eta :/

[DarraghR]

Problem is now fix after replacing nozzles and hose.

Set me back €24 for the pair.

Next job is the rear window which may have another pump :o Also need to get access to where the jet shoots out as that may also need replacing.

[Dazzler]

One pump/reservoir does both as far as I'm aware!!

[BrendanP]

There is one reservoir and as I recall, only one pump. It spins one way to squirt the front screen and the opposite way for the rear screen. If you remove the wheel arch trim to gain access to the pump, you should see the hoses attached to it. Pull the hoses off and try the pump for both screens, water should squirt out of 1 nozzle, and then out of the other. If that's what happens that suggests the pump is ok.

Re-attach the hose for the front screen washers and check they work ok. Then, swap over the hoses and try the rear screen. If there's nothing coming out of the rear washer then you know the problem lies with the hose or the nozzle.

If you open the tailgate and carefully unclip the roof lining you can pull it down and see a plastic coupler than joins the hose from the pump to the shorter hose that goes to the nozzle in the tail gate. Pull the pump hose off this coupler and try the rear washer again. You will need someone else to aim this hose into a bottle so you don't spray it all over the headlining.

If water comes out of that hose, it suggests the problem lies with the coupler or the short hose to the tailgate nozzle. On my old car I found it was the coupler that wasn't letting the water through. I unscrewed the 2 halves of the coupler, took put the little spring and piston inside, screwed it back together, reconnected the hoses to it and that cured the problem. I can only think the spring and piston inside the coupler are supposed to act as a non-return valve, but the washer seems to work the same as it always did.

Be careful with the roof lining as it is quite easy to bruise it, leaving unsightly dimples and creases.

[DarraghR]

How can I completely remove the rear break light on the back door/window? Also what is this light name or classified as?

The trim removal internally just shows electrics on my model.





Someone has mentioned that I will need a heat gun and will need to take my time prying it off is it can easily crack. If someone had to replace the led or buld for this light you would expect the removal to be a bit easier.

[BrendanP]

In your upper photo I can see the heads of the nuts that fasten the light to the door frame. There are 3 of them, and after I took them off I had no problem removing the light. I didn't need to prise the light off, or use a heat gun. It is called 'high-level brake light'.

I can't remember if I removed the rear screen washer nozzle from the light, or disconnected the hose. As I mentioned earlier, the hose attached to the brake light is quite short and is connected to a coupler under the roof head lining. You can disconnect the hose there if you want to remove the light completely.

I wasted a lot of time taking the brake light out before I realised that the water was blocked at the coupler under the head lining.

[DarraghR]

Cheers Brendan looks to be the coupler as not one drop of water is coming out from the exposed hose.



So in order to access that area do I just peal the roof headlining are would it require any tools like heat gun and glue for after the job?

I am going to leave some more pictures below in case anyone else needs help with this in the future.

[BrendanP]

You can see the plastic clips that hold the headlining up, you just need to prise those out to release the headlining. I can't remember exactly how I did it, but if you put something like a screwdriver under the head of the clip and press against the headlining to prise it off, you may bruise the foam backing of the lining. Better to try and pull it straight off without levering against the lining. I didn't need a heat gun for anything, the rubber hoses just pulled off the coupler without much difficulty. The body of the coupler then unscrews and you can shake out the bits inside. Reassemble the coupler, re-attach the hoses and it should work.

I'm not sure if the headlining will gradually recover it's shape if you bruise or crease it, it's about 3 years since I did this job and I haven't had a look at it since.

I don't know why the coupler has those parts inside. I've assumed it's a non-return valve to stop the hose that runs across the roof filling up with air, so that there's no delay in washer fluid squirting out when the rear washer is operated. However, it seemed to work just fine afterwards.