i30 Owners Club
GENERAL STUFF => ADVICE FOR POTENTIAL BUYERS => Topic started by: paleace on May 15, 2017, 13:26:52
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Hi i30 community,
I have 3 cars that I cannot decide between. Here are the cars:
2011 crdi sx
https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Hyundai-i30-2011/SSE-AD-4694489/?Cr=5 (https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Hyundai-i30-2011/SSE-AD-4694489/?Cr=5)
2009 crdi slx
https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Hyundai-i30-2009/SSE-AD-4463892/?Cr=2 (https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Hyundai-i30-2009/SSE-AD-4463892/?Cr=2)
2009 sonata
:link: HYUNDAI SONATA 2009 AUTO DIESEL LOW KMS | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Gold Coast City - Broadbeach | 1147664288 (https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/broadbeach/cars-vans-utes/hyundai-sonata-2009-auto-diesel-low-kms/1147664288)
The 2009 slx is appealing because it has the extra features (6 speaker, climate control, alloys etc.) and a little less ks on it.
The 2011 is a newer model however lacks some features of the slx and has more ks.
The 2009 sonata is far cheaper and has more power/torque, but it's an older gen and I have heard about acceleration hesitation problems with it. Do all hyundai turbodiesels suffer from accel hesitation or turbo lag?
Thanks for your help.
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The Sonata has the older 2.0 diesel engine which also has a timing belt. Power and torque figures aren't that great compared to the 1.6 diesel in the i30.
Stay way from the 4spd auto of the i30. If you go the i30, look at a 6spd manual.
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Also, to answer your question about turbo lag. The 1.6 diesel is a brilliant engine. Never really noticed turbo lag unless you give it a kick in the guts from a stand still.
The trick to driving a diesel is taking it easy on take off and keeping the revs in the engines sweet spot, which is pretty easy between 1750 rpm and 2750rpm.
I love 3rd gear in the i30 manual, power and torque, it just takes off like a bull.
Fuel economy is excellent. My FD wagon has always averaged between 5 - 5.6 litres per 100km more often than not getting 1000km out of a tank
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If you do decide on the auto, go over it with a fine tooth comb. They have a common problem with the valve body giving up
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Guess which one I would pick. :whistler: :lol:
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Guess which one I would pick. :whistler: :lol:
The cheapest :rofl:
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Excluding the Sonata, looking at the Ks , age and price . I think there should be plenty to choose from including a CW for that money.
Sonata rego does not come up in a search, looks good, just get a bad vibe.
the 2011 is not the original plates, the 2009 Model would be.
2011 models on have Bluetooth Stereo
new model release should push FD prices down.
May be worth watching a few Auctions, ex Gov and see how much cheaper if they're still disposing.
Pickles has a 2010 SX auto, ex gov 51k , 22 May 17, description is weird. Says 12/08 build , 03/10 compliance. It's actually 12/09 build.
I have a 2008 hatch and a 2010 CW, both SLX spec and CRDi. Both Auto, Both High K. 2008 has had the VB replaced, and very close to 200 000k. Also recently had to replace the drivers window mech(common failure) and clockspring in steering wheel(erratic steering buttons)
The Wagon, is a rebirth 180000k and I stripped it out and swapped an entire car's worth of gear from a pranged 41K CW.
Love them both. hatch gives me great economy, wagon is a mystery at 1 L / 100 more.
the wagon has reasonably good legroom and headroom in it. I find it has a more compliant ride where my hatch is definitely firm.
have not driven one with the 15" tyres but the 16" Alloys and good rubber are a good combo.
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Thanks everyone for the informative replies.
Unfortunately it has to be auto and my budget (9k-ish) and fuel economy needs only allows for 4spds, cause any higher gear is either too fuel hungry or too expensive. i30 was the most appealing out of my 4sp slush box list because of the features, fuel economy and low end torque.
I have heard that 4spds are not that bad in some diesels cause it keeps the car in its power band quite nicely or is this not the case?
@elantraelite, is that the EGR valve problem that pops up a lot on these forums? Is this problem very common that it will likely happen if I get one of these autos? I will be getting the car checked, but I'm worried that it may be overlooked by the mechanic. Do you suggest that I stick with something like a corolla or yaris rather than risk getting an i30 auto with that valve problem?
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Hi Paleace and :welcome:
You are right, the Diesel does cope relatively well with the 4 speed auto transmission. The biggest negative is the fuel economy which takes quite a hit compared to the 5 and 6 speed manuals. For example the FD manual was rated at 4.7 L/100 kms (more like 5.4 L/100 in the real world) whereas the Auto was rated at 6.0 L/100kms.. (usually but not always quite a bit higher in the real world)
From my observations on here most of the throttle body transmission failures were 2009/2010 vehicles for some reason. If it's on the way out the first thing to happen (apparently) is a delay when selecting reverse before anything happens and also with forward progress. We have quite a few very happy FD 4 speed Auto owners on her including @Phil №❶ (who has 2 of them)
As the others have said the i30's would be a better bet than the Sonata.
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yes, both car transmissions working fine 1 has 100k + and ours 74k. Just make sure the trans oil is cleaned regularly.
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@elantraelite, is that the EGR valve problem that pops up a lot on these forums? Is this problem very common that it will likely happen if I get one of these autos? I will be getting the car checked, but I'm worried that it may be overlooked by the mechanic. Do you suggest that I stick with something like a corolla or yaris rather than risk getting an i30 auto with that valve problem?
Dazz and Phil have an alternative perspective on the transmissions, I'm with them :goodjob2:
In my work, I see a lot of i30s ( an excellent German designed and reliable vehicle). Many with 4 speed autos and I have not had one failure. That incudes my wife's 2009 2.0L FD auto that has now done 110,000km.
The EGR (Exhaust Gas Return) issues only relate to diesel motors. ( same in virtually all makes). It can be eliminated by simply fitting a plate to the return pipe or by using a spray pack cleaner when doing each service..
Occasionally, we have discussions about some fault, often heightened by poor dealer PR and a resistance to do repairs under warranty. This can be the catalyst of fake news :whistler:
Conversely , we don't usually have members independently telling us about the marvellous operation of some mechanical part .
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Ok so I have settled on the idea of getting a diesel i30, I found a 2008 crdi SLX auto with 118ks done for 7.3k with servicing etc:\
:link: 2008 Hyundai i30 SLX Auto (https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Hyundai-i30-2008/SSE-AD-4748931/?Cr=6)
and I could probably get it down to the 6000s, but it doesn't have cruise control which is a real bummer because I found that they cost around $900 to fit aftermarket. Is it worth getting a 2009 or 2011 model crdi (similar ks) with cruise control for an extra $2-3k? Or is the 2008 a good deal if I can get it in the $6000 range? I don't want to rush this but I also really need a car as I live far away from work and have to share one.
Thanks for the help!
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If you can get it down into the 6's and it drives well, I'd be tempted to live without cruise. :cool:
Definitely get a full mechanical or RAC check though...It is getting on for 9 years old.
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looks like it could be a gem, if one owner and books. Shame about no CC, must be early 2008.
Check condition and colour of trans fluid or establish when flushed.
Find some rough uneven roads and listen out for steering knocks and rattles, most noticeable at low speeds.
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Ok thanks for the swift replies guys. Just a question about the trans fluid, sometimes the outside of the container holding it is dirty and you can't really see the fluid inside, what's a good way to tell if it has been flushed recently, should i use a syringe and draw some fluid up to check the clarity?
Also for suspension I'm really used to having rattles and knocks so I'm not sure if I'll be able to tell the difference since I've never driven a car with proper suspension in a long time. Is rocking the car up and down while it's stationary a good way to tell if it has problems?
Thanks
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Ok thanks for the swift replies guys. Just a question about the trans fluid, sometimes the outside of the container holding it is dirty and you can't really see the fluid inside, what's a good way to tell if it has been flushed recently, should i use a syringe and draw some fluid up to check the clarity?
Also for suspension I'm really used to having rattles and knocks so I'm not sure if I'll be able to tell the difference since I've never driven a car with proper suspension in a long time. Is rocking the car up and down while it's stationary a good way to tell if it has problems?
Thanks
White clothe or paper towel, pull the dipstick out and have a look. Nice pink colour and it's pretty new, dark amber brown, could do with a change, black - walk away. Don't know what your on about external container. I'm talking the auto gearbox.
the rattles are with in the steering system, maybe get a proper ispection. I'd expect with these Ks and if serviced , this should be driving pretty good. Mine knocks in the steering, still drives fine at 200000k.
Not a bad price, looks pretty well looked after in the pictures.
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Tw2005 has summed it all up.
This is an excellent model. Frankly, the lack of cruise would not worry me. I rarely use it , and never when I am in even mild traffic.
The car as portrayed , looks good. The price is fair. If the owner is prepared to sell it for $6k, I would be worried, he sounds reasonably intelligent, possibly an experienced :rolleyes: seller.
Get a Revs check before you commit to buying, ( will show debts, early insurance write off ) and also get a good mechanic to run an eye over it.
Log books will show a continuation of registration and ownership.
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What you lose in cruise, you make up with SLX.
Unless you drive hundreds of highway k's a week, I wouldn't worry too much.
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Cruise $900 later model $2000 so unless the later model has features you really want, it's a no brainer IMO.
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Ok so I test drove the 2008 crdi today and had a quick look. The owner's friend was showing it to me. The oil was pitch black, but the friend said this is normal in diesel. The transmission fluid was an orange/amber colour. They have the invoice for an oil change, tyre change and minor service on January this year from a non-hyundai service. The drive was fine, no sounds or anything that I could hear, but for some reason it didn't feel as good as the 2009 even though it's the same engine, it just felt maybe a tad sluggish but maybe that's just me. The ad price was actually increased to 8k recently, but they would honor the 7.3k price from before. I asked if it could be lower and he said that he'll ask the owner but that it would be unlikely the price would move much from 7.3k.
I messaged the 2009 crdi people and offered them 8k, they wrote back saying that they'll check if they can do 8.5k, still haven't replied. So if they are good for 8.3k I think i'll be going with them, if they don't ill go with the 2008.
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Sounds like you are doing it right. Working through the options and taking your time. :goodjob:
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reg due 1 july, black oil is the norm , even after a change there's enough residual to blacken fresh oil
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The owner's friend was showing it to me.
it didn't feel as good as the 2009 even though it's the same engine, it just felt maybe a tad sluggish but maybe that's just me.
:disapp:
"Owners friend", read dealer.
:disapp:
With respect, as a novice you can notice a difference. I would suggest that there is more to be found; trust your gut, not the friend.
would be unlikely the price would move much from 7.3k.
I messaged the 2009 crdi people and offered them 8k, they wrote back saying that they'll check if they can do 8.5k, still haven't replied. So if they are good for 8.3k I think i'll be going with them, if they don't ill go with the 2008.
:disapp:
1. If you messaged me, I would regard you as a time waster . You are about to spend $7- $8000 !!! why don't you TALK to people. :wacko: Its also just plain courtesy, he is doing You a favour by offering you a good car that he may feel sorry to lose . Also, rule one of the negotiator, " If You Listen, You Learn".
:disapp:
2. If it is the better car why dick about over $200. The service on the other one will cost that much or more..
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The owner's friend was showing it to me.
it didn't feel as good as the 2009 even though it's the same engine, it just felt maybe a tad sluggish but maybe that's just me.
:disapp:
"Owners friend", read dealer.
:disapp:
With respect, as a novice you can notice a difference. I would suggest that there is more to be found; trust your gut, not the friend.
would be unlikely the price would move much from 7.3k.
I messaged the 2009 crdi people and offered them 8k, they wrote back saying that they'll check if they can do 8.5k, still haven't replied. So if they are good for 8.3k I think i'll be going with them, if they don't ill go with the 2008.
:disapp:
1. If you messaged me, I would regard you as a time waster . You are about to spend $7- $8000 !!! why don't you TALK to people. :wacko: Its also just plain courtesy, he is doing You a favour by offering you a good car that he may feel sorry to lose . Also, rule one of the negotiator, " If You Listen, You Learn".
:disapp:
2. If it is the better car why dick about over $200. The service on the other one will cost that much or more..
:agreed:
If you're serious about the white one, $8500 is a decent drop on the ask price , new tyres and what appears to be solid service history.
The old man got around that as a trade on his, 120k on the clock.
@nzenigma I'm about to message you :sorry1:
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:eek: Some of us are tighter than others... :whistler:
Text message V Phone call..
$200 ... :sweating: :snigger:
But you guys do make some valid points... :cool:
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Ok so I looked at another 2009 slx crdi (117ks) advertised for 9.9 today and he agreed to 8.5k. The 100k service has been done however the 120k service hasn't been done. It has registration till next year February. The following are the only problems I really saw with it:
- when I first opened the car it didn't start up right away it had to crank for a good 4 secs then started. After this is started perfectly every time.
-The window in the passenger seat doesnt work properly, it goes down but doesnt go up. The driver side and rear windows work both ways. I was thinking it shouldn't be that expensive to fix is this correct?
-The engine bay seems to be a little shaky when the car is running, is this normal?
-The grey paint on the steering wheel (where the CC and volume control setting and are) also have paint wear on the edges.
I am going to be doing a pre purchase on it and hopefully get it by next week if I get the all clear.
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Ok so I looked at another 2009 slx crdi (117ks) advertised for 9.9 today and he agreed to 8.5k. The 100k service has been done however the 120k service hasn't been done. It has registration till next year February. The following are the only problems I really saw with it:
- when I first opened the car it didn't start up right away it had to crank for a good 4 secs then started. After this is started perfectly every time.
-The window in the passenger seat doesnt work properly, it goes down but doesnt go up. The driver side and rear windows work both ways. I was thinking it shouldn't be that expensive to fix is this correct?
-The engine bay seems to be a little shaky when the car is running, is this normal?
-The grey paint on the steering wheel (where the CC and volume control setting and are) also have paint wear on the edges.
I am going to be doing a pre purchase on it and hopefully get it by next week if I get the all clear.
Have you started a diesel before? Glow plugs could be tired but since I have 2, the lower K unit fires up much easier straight after the glow plug lamp goes out. Generally I give mine a few secs after that then crank. the colder it is the harder it can be sometimes.
if it does not start after a couple of cranks, I restart the start procedure. I don't just keep cranking in hope.
As for the window, if you can fix things yourself, should be cheap. Couls be a bad switch . My front pass goes up and down on th e master switch, at the local switch, goes down , not up.
What happened to the white low K unit?
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Of all that, the most concerning to me might be the vibration in the engine bay (maybe check mounts) electric window solution might just turn out to be the switch. As for the steering wheel, disassembly and spraying it your favourite colour(s) is SuperCheap. :whistler: :D
*Damn you, TW, your finger was faster - today. :evil:
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What happened to the white low K unit?
It got sold, didn't receive a reply from them. The problem with them was that the 90k service wasn't stamped in the service book, so I'm thinking it may have not been done. The car I'm looking at now has the 100k service stamped, and I'll have to worry about 120k one which is alright I guess. If the engine mounts are bad do you think I could use that and the windows as another bargaining chip to lower it more, because I would be spending a bit to get them in shape.
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If it had it's last stamped service at 100,000km then it's next service would be due at 115,000km, service requirement is 15,000km or 12 months - which ever occurs first.
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Shaky? Too hard to comment. How many have you test driven? That's probably the best guide you'
ll get to know normal / abnormal. It's a diesel so more noise and vibration than a petrol but nothing too bad. Bit of resonance up the RPM range.
Two main mounts are the drivers side which is fluid filled, can sink down with age and rest on the rubber stop. the other you'll struggle to see on the gearbox can get tears.
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Can you live with a plain Jane? 2011 CW , Silver Auto, 1 owner, private sale , 95000k, $9000, base model, no extras at all but looks pretty good. Sunshine Coast / Noosa
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There are SX i30s that are the same price with lower ks (55ks, and 88ks). Although it would be nice to have as low ks as possible, but I don't want to regret not getting a SLX with climate control and CC down the road. I feel that the extra features are a good trade off. As long as it has been serviced regularly I don't think I'll really be missing out on anything.
Two main mounts are the drivers side which is fluid filled, can sink down with age and rest on the rubber stop. the other you'll struggle to see on the gearbox can get tears.
At what Ks would you expect to see this happening, would it be likely to have happened at 116ks?
If it had it's last stamped service at 100,000km then it's next service would be due at 115,000km, service requirement is 15,000km or 12 months - which ever occurs first.
He was showing me through the book and he definitely had the one before the 120k service done, but he hadn't done most of the optional services. Is there a link to the hyundai service book? I looked at :link: Car Servicing Cost & Price Guide for a Hyundai FD I30 1.6 T/D Auto 02/08- - carservice.com.au (http://www.carservice.com.au/car-service-cost/hyundai/i30/fd-i30-1-6-t_d-auto-02_08-/) and it shows one at 105k then 120k. Are the prices for the 120k accurate? If so that might mean an early service probably around 3 months after getting the car in my case.
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Service schedule/quotes can be found on the Hyundai website :link: Get a Service Quote - Hyundai Australia (http://www.hyundai.com.au/owning/get-a-service-quote)
The factory book schedule is 105,000 then 120,000 but if it has had an early service done at 100,000 then the next is due at 115,000 or 12 months, whichever comes first.
If the car is currently on 117,000 then it's already overdue.
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Of all that, the most concerning to me might be the vibration in the engine bay (maybe check mounts) electric window solution might just turn out to be the switch.
My thoughts too!! :goodjob2:
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Would Stateroads inspectors be able to see if the auto transmission has any slipping or if the timing chain guides are worn?
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no. Use a good mechanic
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no. Use a good mechanic
Currently checking the databases for an image of one :mrgreen: Sure hard to find :groan:
(http://www.punchdebtintheface.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Screen-shot-2011-02-27-at-Feb-27-2011-11.30.18-PM-.png)
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Ok so I got the car inspected by a mechanic and the only major problem found was an oil leak in the main seal ring for the transmission which cannot be seen from the bottom because the tray underneath contains it. It's a very slow leak but he said it could cost around 1.5k at a dealer and 700-1000 at another mechanic. He also said that you could use a seal rejuvinator for it and has seen success with it before. So that is quite unfortunate, do you think it's still worth getting for around 8.5k or should i offer a lower price.
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Ok so I got the car inspected by a mechanic and the only major problem found was an oil leak in the main seal ring for the transmission which cannot be seen from the bottom because the tray underneath contains it. It's a very slow leak but he said it could cost around 1.5k at a dealer and 700-1000 at another mechanic. He also said that you could use a seal rejuvinator for it and has seen success with it before. So that is quite unfortunate, do you think it's still worth getting for around 8.5k or should i offer a lower price.
With the other issues you mentioned before I would keep looking I reckon. Otherwise show them the report and offer 8K maybe?
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so here are the exact words of the report:
-Oil leaks at under body/drive line wash down needed to confirm leaks and repair accordingly -bell housing/sump area.
-Some wear visible at suspension and bushes etc. but consistent for age and kms.
-Vehicle has had panel and paint repairs to various panels - No evidence of any
chassis or structural repairs found refer diagram.
-Shopping type dents/chips/scratches/marks to various panels - Refer diagram.
Window rubbers have sun fading, wiper bolt cover is missing - see pictures.
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Give it a miss, IMO.
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After 5pm today I'm going to offer the guy 7.3k as is or 8.3k if he fixes it himself
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I find if the auto trans sump/valve body cover has been removed and a standard gasket installed, they weep.
Apart from that I have no leaks in my 2008. The other thing to pay close attention to in these are the drive shaft boots in particular the inner joints and the longest shaft or Drivers side. I've found these become loose and grease weeps out past the boot where the band clamp is.
If caught early, removing the shaft and having it serviced / re clamped or even a new boot may save the shaft . Eventually under or high speed you can get a bad vibration from the shaft.
Not quite sure what seal they mean, Torque converter seal? Maybe keep looking
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Not getting a good feel about this one. :undecided:
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Not getting a good feel about this one. :undecided:
:goodjob2: Dazz
From me too, give it the flick.
After 5pm today I'm going to offer the guy 7.3k as is or 8.3k if he fixes it himself
You still end up with a sow's ear.
Glad to see you have found a mechanic . Unlike your Stateroad Inspectors, he has a business to think about, therefore need returning customers. So he should look after you.
On servicing, the intermediate services are not necessary. 15,000km between services is fine.
There are SX i30s that are the same price with lower ks (55ks, and 88ks). Although it would be nice to have as low ks as possible, but I don't want to regret not getting a SLX with climate control and CC down the road. I feel that the extra features are a good trade off. As long as it has been serviced regularly I don't think I'll really be missing out on anything.
Sorry, that's :wacko: Only advantage is that You can play with the CC & climate buttons while you wait for someone to come and tow your dog SLX.
In the past, How much joy has Climate Control given you as opposed to your experience with Air Con?
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Why not just try to find a Trophy model? You'll get alloys and cruise control? Then just buy the $20 audio control for the steering wheel, take the airbag off, plug in and you've now got audio controls.
All you'll miss out on is climate control. Which I really think is a waste of time. Manual controls do the job.
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Unfortunately I can't find a trophy model however it would be nice. I didn't get that i30 I did the inspection on, I;m glad I didn't because alot of other cars have popped up since then. I have found this accent :link: 2011 accent active auto (https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Hyundai-Accent-2011/OAG-AD-14657531/?Cr=6) and I was wondering if it is worth going the extra money for the GD 6 spd? Would it be a better choice over a FD 4 speed i30? If I can get this car down a bit I might consider getting it because the cheapest i30 with a 6spd is a bit too far out of budget. I'm going to test drive it today.
I also have an offer for a 2011 corolla ascent hatch with 62ks+FSH for 9.2k (sorry I know it's an i30 forum).
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this CW looks tasty. Might even get for 9 grand.
:link: 2009 Hyundai i30 wagon Diesel Auto 89.000km | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Gold Coast City - Surfers Paradise | 1151794665 (https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/surfers-paradise/cars-vans-utes/2009-hyundai-i30-wagon-diesel-auto-89-000km/1151794665)
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Oh and they're 16" wheels not 17 as they say and current rego status is expeired 17 June , AD says Registered=yes
Build was 09.11.2009 so possibly first registered 2010,
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I've had models with climate control and without.
My current one has manual air con.
There's not much difference and to be honest, I think the manual air con is better - easier to get the air/fan speed combination you want.
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Looks like that accent has gone, unless link dodgy. Corolla's are a bit boring but reliable. No problem mentioning other brands on here. Some of our best members now drive other brands. GD 6 speed is a little better and you may score a bit of warranty if you can stretch that far.
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Ok so I checked the accent today and unfortunately I made a mistake where I thought it was a 6 speed but it actually was a 4spd sports auto, the ad was wrong. It was advertised as having a D4FB engine with 94kw and 260nm @ 1900-2750, when it actually was a G4FC engine with 91kw and 156nm @4200rpm. Sadly I found this out when it was too late. I got the price down to 10.5k from 11.9k and put in a deposit in the knowledge that it had the advertised features. I'm going to get my deposit back before the 24 hour cooling off period.
I checked another hyundai i30 as well : :link: We've taken a wrong turn (https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Hyundai-i30-2011/SSE-AD-4816319/?Cr=4) I was really excited for this one as it looked immaculate and it was fairly low ks (58ks), the thing that concerned me the most was the colour of the transmission fluid which was very dark, almost black. It had done the 45k service 'as per hyundai lifetime capped price service program' and the last service was the 45kdone at 36ks in late 2015, so it hasn't been serviced since then. Might this be why the fluid might be black? I asked for receipts for the latest service to see if the transmission fluid had been changed and they didnt have it so they texted me the receipt, however I didn't see any transmission oil change, it only says 'inspect manual/auto transaxle oil condition. I'm suspecting that the fluid might not have even been changed since purchase. Would this matter too much?
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Ok so I checked the accent today and unfortunately I made a mistake where I thought it was a 6 speed but it actually was a 4spd sports auto, the ad was wrong. It was advertised as having a D4FB engine with 94kw and 260nm @ 1900-2750, when it actually was a G4FC engine with 91kw and 156nm @4200rpm. Sadly I found this out when it was too late. I got the price down to 10.5k from 11.9k and put in a deposit in the knowledge that it had the advertised features. I'm going to get my deposit back before the 24 hour cooling off period.
I checked another hyundai i30 as well : :link: We've taken a wrong turn (https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Hyundai-i30-2011/SSE-AD-4816319/?Cr=4) I was really excited for this one as it looked immaculate and it was fairly low ks (58ks), the thing that concerned me the most was the colour of the transmission fluid which was very dark, almost black. It had done the 45k service 'as per hyundai lifetime capped price service program' and the last service was the 45kdone at 36ks in late 2015, so it hasn't been serviced since then. Might this be why the fluid might be black? I asked for receipts for the latest service to see if the transmission fluid had been changed and they didnt have it so they texted me the receipt, however I didn't see any transmission oil change, it only says 'inspect manual/auto transaxle oil condition. I'm suspecting that the fluid might not have even been changed since purchase. Would this matter too much?
Unlikely changed, could check the drain plug and see if it has even been touched.
Not interested in that wagon I linked. Apart from not being a hatch it has everything you're after plus it will have reverse sensors too. Should have better resale, more leg room in the rear, power outlet in the back and has a more supple ride too than the hatch
I was wondering about that accent when I saw D4FB, Zupps ?
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Hi tw2005, thank you for all your help. I'm only looking at the hatch versions of the i30 at the moment, I feel the wagon is a bit too big since only 1 person will be driving it all the time. I appreciate the offer though.
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Hi tw2005, thank you for all your help. I'm only looking at the hatch versions of the i30 at the moment, I feel the wagon is a bit too big since only 1 person will be driving it all the time. I appreciate the offer though.
No worries. A shame, they're not a lot bigger , greater flexibilty but hey, I got one of each and both are great + 3 extra bods to get around :lol:
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Hi tw2005, thank you for all your help. I'm only looking at the hatch versions of the i30 at the moment, I feel the wagon is a bit too big since only 1 person will be driving it all the time. I appreciate the offer though.
Yeah Gerard is right. Basically the same car with a slightly more balanced stying in my opinion. Definitely shouldn't rule the wagon out on the basis of size! :eek:
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Sory final words.
http://www.motoring.com.au/hyundai-i30-cw-14580/ (http://www.motoring.com.au/hyundai-i30-cw-14580/)
"230mm longer than the hatch, with a slightly longer (2700mm compared to 2650mm) wheelbase and rear overhang (900mm v 720mm) delivering 415 litres of cargo space in the rear with the seats in place, or 1395 litres with the rear seats folded.
The wagon gains around 50kg over the hatch
Headroom was already generous in the hatch and the wagon is no exception, even if the additional space registers at sub-10mm (987mm compared to 980mm).
Most striking is the additional rear legroom for the wagon. It’s officially only 4 per cent extra at 926mm (i30 hatch is 890mm) but the spaciousness for rear occupants speaks volumes. Even with the front seats pushed all the way back there’s ample leg and foot room for rear passenger"
At first it’s difficult to discern you’re driving a wagon, instead of the worthy little i30 hatch, such is the controlled feel behind the wheel and connection between road and driver.
The wagon has the same steering quality as the hatch, despite the extra length and bulk, with a good ‘weighty’ feel but as we said in our launch review (more here), there’s little fluctuation in feedback throughout the reaches."
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The wagon also has the higher grade seat trim (rather than plain black).
The access to the rear is much better in the wagon imo making it easier to use for bigger items.
I would have a look at one before ruling them out.
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The wagon also has the higher grade seat trim (rather than plain black).
The access to the rear is much better in the wagon imo making it easier to use for bigger items.
I would have a look at one before ruling them out.
Well that's kind of interesting because the trim in my hatch is black with apattern and I think better looking and durable than my Wagon which to me seems to be the same as the plain jane models.Also no SLX badging where my hatch has.
It's asif they had to trim a bit of cost out of it. Not complaining .
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My understanding is the Wagon got the SLX seats rather than the plain black ones in the base model hatch.
Wagon:
(https://carsales.li.csnstatic.com/carsales/car/dealer/cd5696581771276536509.jpg?aspect=FitWithinNoPad&height=700&width=1050)
Hatch:
(https://carsales.li.csnstatic.com/carsales/car/dealer/cd5009415741015207338.jpg?aspect=FitWithinNoPad&height=700&width=1050)
Slx:
(https://carsales.li.csnstatic.com/carsales/car/dealer/cd5721763612624848082.jpg?aspect=FitWithinNoPad&height=700&width=1050)
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Getting back to the original post, I have always liked the old Sonata diesel with the 6 speed manual transmission.
I acknowledge that the technology is older and personally, I would not buy an automatic.
But the 6 speed manual (which was before its time in Australia) diesel I think is a good thing, if you could buy one at the right price.
I certainly would not discount it.
:link: 2008 Hyundai Sonata SLX Diesel Review | CarsGuide (https://www.carsguide.com.au/car-reviews/test-drive-hyundai-sonata-slx-diesel-10042)
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My understanding is the Wagon got the SLX seats rather than the plain black ones in the base model hatch.
That would be right. I did some work on one last year, 2012 model FD with Auto, 35,000km on clock, owner sold it for $11,000.
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Hey guys just another general question about inspection for i30 diesels. I noticed on the 2 cars that I went to inspect the transmission oil was dark, a brownish-black colour. Strange thing is one of them had a receipt for having the transmission oil changed this year at a non-dealer service, but the colour of the A/T fluid isn't pink or amber. I know you already advised me of avoiding dark coloured A/T fluid Tw, but it just seemed odd. When driving the car it did sort of crap itself when I half-floored the pedal, going up and down in rpms and finding a gear before smoothing out but I'm guessing that is normal for 4 speeds?
I am currently borrowing a friend's car which has put the pressure off having to get a car asap and was thinking of waiting for EOFY and trying to get a 6 speed 2012 GD for maybe 1-2.5k more. I have read a lot of praise about the 6 speed GDs on here and how it is an excellent gearbox. I have found some that I'm interested in like this one: :link: We've taken a wrong turn (https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Hyundai-i30-2013/OAG-AD-14841210/?Cr=16). Only thing I'm thinking about though is: 6 speed a good trade off for+3k and more ks. There are more and more FD i30s coming out around 8-10k, the ones that I go to look at generally seem a little dodgy and the drive hasn't felt the same since the first time I drove one.
I don't really know what to do. I'm stuck between getting an i30 FD or GD. Initially before coming here I was researching deisel Ford powershift and VW DSG and a lot of people are telling me the diesel wet clutch is totally fine but then some saying to avoid at all costs because on the off chance that it does have a problem you'll have to spend 5-8k to fix it.
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All you can do is look for a well cared for vehicle with a good service history that drives well at a good price that fits your budget. Try not to over analyse. Hopefully you will know when you have found the right car. :cool:
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All you can do is look for a well cared for vehicle with a good service history that drives well at a good price that fits your budget. Try not to over analyse. Hopefully you will know when you have found the right car. :cool:
My advice too. Dazz and I have bought and sold plenty of cars , many of them i30s.
The FD and GD are both good cars with NO inherent faults. Repeat; don't over analyse.
Use common sense, eg. your caution about the dark trans fluid is spot on. The drive was not good, possibly the transmission was flaring/slipping.
I will check in again at page 6 :rolleyes: