i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => PETROL => Topic started by: AussieCanuck on November 30, 2018, 03:24:42
-
Hi Guys,
Just joined. Was recommended from a friend who uses this forum.
I have a 2011 i30 2.0L Petrol Auto.
I apologize in advance for my limited car knowledge/terminology, but I will do my best to explain it.
I am having the following issues with the automatical transmission:
1) When going up hills, RPMs will sometimes go through the roof (6,000+) and lose power, before kicking into a normal gear and around 2500rpm
2) Sometimes the gears seem to studder before kicking into the next gear (seems to happen usually between first and second)
3) On occasion on the highway, it was not going into the next gear (5th ? 6th?) and would be like 3500RPM @ around 100km, (usually it would have kicked into the next gear and settled around the 2500 RPM)
I took it into tranmission shop and they are saying it requires a new gearbox ($3300 new, $2400 used)
As a total scrub when it comes to cars, I just want to see if this is typical for these cars, and if the issue seem to reflect the gearbox needing replacement.
Thanks in advance for your answers. Hopefully I explained it well enough.
Regards,
AussieCanuck
-
Hi Guys,
Just joined. Was recommended from a friend who uses this forum.
I have a 2011 i30 2.0L Petrol Auto.
I apologize in advance for my limited car knowledge/terminology, but I will do my best to explain it.
I am having the following issues with the automatical transmission:
1) When going up hills, RPMs will sometimes go through the roof (6,000+) and lose power, before kicking into a normal gear and around 2500rpm
2) Sometimes the gears seem to studder before kicking into the next gear (seems to happen usually between first and second)
3) On occasion on the highway, it was not going into the next gear (5th ? 6th?) and would be like 3500RPM @ around 100km, (usually it would have kicked into the next gear and settled around the 2500 RPM)
I took it into tranmission shop and they are saying it requires a new gearbox ($3300 new, $2400 used)
As a total scrub when it comes to cars, I just want to see if this is typical for these cars, and if the issue seem to reflect the gearbox needing replacement.
Thanks in advance for your answers. Hopefully I explained it well enough.
Regards,
AussieCanuck
well, what sort of ks has this done? One owner? service history? last time box was serviced or flushed? Fluid level?
Valve bodies wear out in these and cause erratic gears, how does it engage when stopped selecting R or D? Delayed?
-
Hi tw2005,
Thanks for responding.
Currently: 148,000km
Bought it one year old with ~20,000km on it
Have completed every service in the Hyundai iCare logbook
I don't know if the box has ever been flushed or serviced (unless that is part of one of the major services they do at certain KM mark). I have never had it specifically done.
R & D seem fine without delay.
Regards,
AussieCanuck
-
Hi tw2005,
Thanks for responding.
Currently: 148,000km
Bought it one year old with ~20,000km on it
Have completed every service in the Hyundai iCare logbook
I don't know if the box has ever been flushed or serviced (unless that is part of one of the major services they do at certain KM mark). I have never had it specifically done.
R & D seem fine without delay.
Regards,
AussieCanuck
Gut feeling is another valve body failure although I was hoping you had engagement issues. If you have all the paperwork, maybe carefully scan through that and see if there is any hint of a flush/ trans fluid drain.
with engine running at op temp in N fluid level on the trans dipstick should be it the hot region. I'd be interested to see what colour it is against whit paper towel. One of my diesels had the valve body replaced around 140000k, box itself is still good and strong at 230000k
-
Welcome AC,
I get the impression it happens more with the diesel than the petrol boxes I assume because of the extra torque of the diesel engine. There are quite a few threads on here about the transmission issues. While some have paid big bickies like you were quoted I'm sure others have had change out of $1000, so worth shopping around. The issue is known but not every box does it. It seems to be mainly 2010/11 vehicles.
-
The last service it looks like there was a trans fluid drain done on it (just recently).
I attached a photo of the requested trans fluid. It has come up pretty clear on the paper towel.
Regards,
AussieCanuck
Gut feeling is another valve body failure although I was hoping you had engagement issues. If you have all the paperwork, maybe carefully scan through that and see if there is any hint of a flush/ trans fluid drain.
with engine running at op temp in N fluid level on the trans dipstick should be it the hot region. I'd be interested to see what colour it is against whit paper towel. One of my diesels had the valve body replaced around 140000k, box itself is still good and strong at 230000k
-
The last service it looks like there was a trans fluid drain done on it (just recently).
I attached a photo of the requested trans fluid. It has come up pretty clear on the paper towel.
Regards,
AussieCanuck
Gut feeling is another valve body failure although I was hoping you had engagement issues. If you have all the paperwork, maybe carefully scan through that and see if there is any hint of a flush/ trans fluid drain.
with engine running at op temp in N fluid level on the trans dipstick should be it the hot region. I'd be interested to see what colour it is against whit paper towel. One of my diesels had the valve body replaced around 140000k, box itself is still good and strong at 230000k
[/quote]
[/quote]
Did the issue surface after the last service? :undecided:
-
yeah that's fresh,. was the level correct?
-
Agree. It does sound like valve body.
I'll leave tw to run through all the tedious stuff so that it is clearer.
:undecided: