i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => GENERAL => Topic started by: R744 on January 14, 2017, 20:32:59
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Dear All,
I probably have a problem already widely discussed in this forum, but would still appreciate some advice if possible. My 2008 i30 diesel (67,000 km, smoothly starting) has lit the immobiliser warning light for a few days. It did, however, start completely normally until today. After driving a few kilometers and turning the engine off, parking in a friend's driveway for a few minutes, the engine refused to re-start. The problem seems rather clear - the immobiliser won't deactivate. It is surely not a battery or fuel issue as the starting engine and battery are really powering on when turning on the ignition, but the immobiliser seems to stifle the attempt to get the engine running, no matter what.
My debugging steps so far have been:
1. Several locking/unlocking/key-insertion sequences with the flip key to see if immobiliser is deactivated
2. Unplugging battery for about 15 minutes to reset engine control unit
3. Replacing the flip key battery
4. Repeating point 1 using the simple backup key (without remote control)
5. Repeating point 2 for about 30 mins
Any further debugging tips before I must concede and have the car towed to a garage for a check-up, are greatly appreciated.
A coincidence is that I tried out my DEFA electric engine heater for the first time shortly before the above-mentioned drive. This heater has a remote control, which I am not versed at using yet. Could this one somehow interfere with the car/key communication? As mentioned, the car started normally the first time, but refused to re-start about ten minutes later. And as mentioned, the immobiliser warning sign has been lit for some days anyway.
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Hi
:wttc:
If you remove the fuse for the DEFA heater there should be no interference. Will the car start then.?
Do you have access to a OBD reader..? Most of them enables you to read fault codes and even delete them. The battery in the key you can rule out. That battery is only for the remote locking system. :mrgreen:
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Hi,
Your key fob has a chip in it that contains the code for your immobiliser.. An aerial coil, that is situated around your steering lock, reads the chip.
common faults are:
Your key fob is damaged and the chip has fallen out.
Your chip code has been corrupted.... Unusual, but a locksmith can check it.
The coil is faulty... Replace. Simple job
The contacts to the coil are poor due to the low current and therefore are dirty..... remove plastic , repair.
If its poor contacts, You may get lucky by just spraying contact cleaner (CRC etc) into the ignition lock area.
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:welcumwagon: R744
I gave you a thank you for your first post because it was so well explained! Not often a new member comes on for help and explains the problem and their attempts at a solution so well! Great english too!
Hope those two earlier replies did the trick! :fingers:
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Do you have fuel and the correct fuel, i,e, diesel
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Well said Daz :goodjob2:
but...
! Great english too!
I thought everyone spoke English. :confused:
Even heard Don Trump attempting to use it . :disapp:
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Even heard Don Trump attempting to use it . :disapp:
:lol:
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Dear All,
Thanks a lot for all your good input and kind welcoming words. Out of general interest I have been an unregistered "read-only" user of the i30 Owners Club website for some time. Working as a researcher in energy-related R&D I am used to communicating and writing reports etc in English, and I am happy to hear you found my post consise and understandable. A year's army service back in the days also helped cutting the crap in communication...
For various reasons (no access to an OBD reader, no suitable car shelter, heavy snow and a bit of frost outside at the moment, general lack of hands-on experience with cars) I haven't been able to carry out all of your suggested actions.
I tried to inject some CRC contact cleaner into the ignition lock area, but without results. I also tried to lock/unlock several times, as well as leaving the key in "acc" and "on" for a few minutes. I believe the battery has now become quite drained as well.
The status is unchanged: The warning light is constantly on, even without the key inserted in the ignition lock.
My insurance seems to cover most of the cost of having the car towed to a nearby garage. It seems I will need some professional assistance. Will keep this post updated.
Thanks.
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No problem. Good luck! :victory:
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One last thing you could try is a bcm (body control module) reset, by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for at least 30 minutes.
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I hope and believe the problem has been permanently solved. The car was towed to the closest authorised garage/dealership. Below is a summary from the written report (probably rather poorly translated) on my invoice.
The OBD error code is "P1690 Faulty Smartra". Current data also says "unknown key status", which could also indicate the antenna. The immobiliser light is constantly lit, also when the car is locked. Fuses are pulled until the correct circuit is identified, which turns out to be the same as for the ceiling lamp. From the drawings, these circuits meet in the A pillar on the passenger side. A visible fault can be found inside in the form of verdigris on a contact. It seems like free water has been running along the wiring. Leakage from the windshield was tested by pressurised air; no leak detected. It is therefore likely that internal condensation is the cause. The contact was repaired and contact lubricant and silicone was applied to prevent water infiltration.
After this repair, the car was starting normally and everything seemed fine. A few days later, however, the original symptom and fault was back. I therefore had to have the car brought back once more, and I asked them to redo the repair free of charge, which they did. This time they replaced all the wiring as well, which seems to have resolved the issue permanently.
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I hope and believe the problem has been permanently solved. The car was towed to the closest authorised garage/dealership. Below is a summary from the written report (probably rather poorly translated) on my invoice.
The OBD error code is "P1690 Faulty Smartra". Current data also says "unknown key status", which could also indicate the antenna. The immobiliser light is constantly lit, also when the car is locked. Fuses are pulled until the correct circuit is identified, which turns out to be the same as for the ceiling lamp. From the drawings, these circuits meet in the A pillar on the passenger side. A visible fault can be found inside in the form of verdigris on a contact. It seems like free water has been running along the wiring. Leakage from the windshield was tested by pressurised air; no leak detected. It is therefore likely that internal condensation is the cause. The contact was repaired and contact lubricant and silicone was applied to prevent water infiltration.
After this repair, the car was starting normally and everything seemed fine. A few days later, however, the original symptom and fault was back. I therefore had to have the car brought back once more, and I asked them to redo the repair free of charge, which they did. This time they replaced all the wiring as well, which seems to have resolved the issue permanently.
Thanks for the feedback because that's the sort of fault you could waste a lot of time and money chasing. I was expecting a faulty antenna.
So it's a LHD vehicle and it's the junction box in the right side bottom kick panel.
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Other way round, mate. :eek:
Norway is LHD.
R744 has given us some valuable information that I may add to our discussion with our Bristol member.
Quote "Fuses are pulled until the correct circuit is identified, which turns out to be the same as for the ceiling lamp." Also "The immobiliser light is constantly lit, also when the car is locked..."
Dealer found "verdigris on a contact".
Assuming that the fault has been fixed, the corrosion was probably on a door-open switch circuit . It had too much resistance to operate the ceiling light, but enough conductivity to wrongly indicate that a door was open.
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Other way round, mate. :eek:
Norway is LHD.
R744 has given us some valuable information that I may add to our discussion with our Bristol member.
Quote "Fuses are pulled until the correct circuit is identified, which turns out to be the same as for the ceiling lamp." Also "The immobiliser light is constantly lit, also when the car is locked..."
Dealer found "verdigris on a contact".
Assuming that the fault has been fixed, the corrosion was probably on a door-open switch circuit . It had too much resistance to operate the ceiling light, but enough conductivity to wrongly indicate that a door was open.
:whistler: should have had coffee this morning. I looked it up saw right side and then brain registered right side (steering) :crazy2:
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:whistler: should have had coffee this morning. I looked it up saw right side and then brain registered right side (steering) :crazy2:
Im on auto pilot too, Partied in 48 degrees yesterday and had 4 hours sleep from 2am-6am.
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Also, there are two places for a steering wheel; The right side and the wrong side :disapp:.
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Also, there are two places for a steering wheel; The right side and the wrong side :disapp:.
They're only right and wrong if you don't drive on the "right" side of the road. :happydance:
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Also, there are two places for a steering wheel; The right side and the wrong side :disapp:.
They're only right and wrong if you don't drive on the "right" side of the road. :happydance:
Not in Burma!!! They drive RHD cars on the right side of the road. And at the speed limit of their choosing. :rolleyes: