i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => PETROL => Topic started by: RVTOS on April 29, 2020, 06:19:34
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Hi everyone,
I have a 2009 I30 petrol 1.4l ; ECU KEFICO 44G.
I really need help.
Sorry for my poor English, but I'm French.
I am looking for the electrical diagram, which connects the key antenna coil and the ecu.
Let me explain, when I want to start, the starter turns, but the engine does not start.
When I put the car on ON, the engine check and immobilizer lights do not come on.
When the car is in the ON position, I have 2.5V across the coil antenna.
All my fuses are tested and OK.
When I plug in an OBD2, the device turns on, but when I want to check, there is no dialogue between the OBD2 and the car.
I am speaking to you, because I would really have liked to have schema, before trying to open ECU.
Thank you all in advance.
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No immo, no comms with ECU seems like dead ECU? or missing power?
But I will look to see what I have, it may help, not certain it will match your car
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(https://i.ibb.co/gjtTsBV/immo-ccct.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Fx8wGjV)
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(https://i.ibb.co/hKxxfY3/ecu-immo.jpg) (https://ibb.co/y8mmS4H)
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(https://i.ibb.co/R3RK2hx/smartra.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8r1wMzW)
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Really thank you TW205,
With the diagrams, I will be able to search more deeply. What is surprising is that it happened several days after the change of the little rubber star in the power steering motor.
Another huge thank you TW205.
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TW2005, have you schema electric du main relay.
I just noticed that it does not click with the key on ON.
Thank you all in advance.
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(https://i.ibb.co/MhtXQM5/main-relay.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wLPvjMr)
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I have just resolved to dismantle and open my ECU.
:disapp: :disapp:
Because all the diagrams bring me back to IT...
Result 2 cut electrical tracks, and two dry soldering. :lol: :lol:
After reassembly and testing everything is OK. :happydance:
Really a HUGE THANK YOU to you TW2005 :goodjob2: :goodjob2: :goodjob2: :goodjob2: :goodjob2: :goodjob2:.
If I can help you with something tell me ...
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I have just resolved to dismantle and open my ECU.
:disapp: :disapp:
Because all the diagrams bring me back to IT...
Result 2 cut electrical tracks, and two dry soldering. :lol: :lol:
After reassembly and testing everything is OK. :happydance:
Really a HUGE THANK YOU to you TW2005 :goodjob2: :goodjob2: :goodjob2: :goodjob2: :goodjob2: :goodjob2:.
If I can help you with something tell me ...
any photos? that's pretty incredible , how did you get into the board? Is it not encapsulated? Cut tracks, how? Dry joints , not exactly surprising these days
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Dear TW2005, again thank you.
For open the ECU, I used this method (hot air gun), with not always the same tools (I don't have the pliers).
:link: Safe way to open ECU ABC - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nkqMU2tgHg)
You have to be very careful, because the glue (in my case) spread a little on both sides of the PCB.
After having opened the cover, and before wanting to extract the PCB,
I inspected the circuit I immediately noticed 2 welds with a very ugly color.
(https://i.ibb.co/RStN6zj/ECU-open.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n04B1zP)
With a magnifying glass, I saw that 2 tracks were cut.
(https://i.ibb.co/LR2jdKn/track-cut.png) (https://ibb.co/dMzC4ZG)
So I solder wires to replace the tracks.
(https://i.ibb.co/gz2CHvJ/shunt.png) (https://ibb.co/HnSQ1Nq)
Then close inspection of the rest of the welds (nothing else bad).
I decided to test with the ECU open in the car, I turned the ignition on, the 2 engine check and immobilizer lights came on,
and the car started ....
I'm so happy ...
I don't know if my explanations are understandable, but I hope so.
Thanks again to you, I have made very big saving.
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Small info, to open ECU at the end, do not use a cutter or anything else metal sharp.
I use sharpen the edge of an old credit card to cut the glue (a little long but without risk :sweating: ...).
Much less risk than damaging the motherboard ... :blubber: :blubber:
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Dear TW2005, again thank you.
For open the ECU, I used this method (hot air gun), with not always the same tools (I don't have the pliers).
:link: Safe way to open ECU ABC - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nkqMU2tgHg)
You have to be very careful, because the glue (in my case) spread a little on both sides of the PCB.
After having opened the cover, and before wanting to extract the PCB,
I inspected the circuit I immediately noticed 2 welds with a very ugly color.
(https://i.ibb.co/RStN6zj/ECU-open.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n04B1zP)
With a magnifying glass, I saw that 2 tracks were cut.
(https://i.ibb.co/LR2jdKn/track-cut.png) (https://ibb.co/dMzC4ZG)
So I solder wires to replace the tracks.
(https://i.ibb.co/gz2CHvJ/shunt.png) (https://ibb.co/HnSQ1Nq)
Then close inspection of the rest of the welds (nothing else bad).
I decided to test with the ECU open in the car, I turned the ignition on, the 2 engine check and immobilizer lights came on,
and the car started ....
I'm so happy ...
I don't know if my explanations are understandable, but I hope so.
Thanks again to you, I have made very big saving.
Love your work. :goodjob2: So really , looking at this the tracks have fused and gone open cct. Could the source of failure be external overload? Those blackened pins, are they just to a connector or was there some component fitted there?
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Just looked in. Great work, thanks :goodjob2:
But I would want to avoid another failure. What component failure or line short caused that circuit to be cooked? Have you traced it further?
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to your question about the blackened welds, these are pins 51 and 73 of the ECU connector (I'm not 100% sure, because I couldn't access the component side too much glue).
(https://i.ibb.co/TB66nB9/coonector-ECU.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Is this a current defect? this is video which put me on the right track:
:link: Hyundai i30 2010 Crank no Start (ECU capacitors blown, it was possible to repair it) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdNF9x14rfM)
But the guy thinks that it was a capacitor that exploded, in my case,
I suspected that it was not a capacitor, because part of ECU still worked (because all the other LEDs worked on my dashboard ).
An ECU is supplied with 12V but most of the work on 5V, if it had been a capacitor which had leaked and damaged the electronic tracks, all the functions of the ECU would have had troubles ...
Now to know if someone else could have the same problem, I think YES.
Because I think it's a design error (the electronic tracks at this place are too narrow), I've been working in electronics for years, and for me, when you look at the following photo,
(https://i.ibb.co/TBBGDYp/track-cut-AB.png) (https://ibb.co/kggTV5k)
On the cut track at the bottom (A), there is a slight trace of burns, a sign that there has been heating.
On the other hand, the track cut from the top (B), it looks like vaporized. In my opinion because of the rupture of A that track B has disappeared. (electric track sign too narrow)
Last little info, before repair I had 19 Ohms, between the pins of the connector and the ground. After repair, I have 11 Ohms between the pins and the ground.
I hope I have been clear enough in my explanations.
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What brand are the CAPS?
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what do you mean by " CAPS "
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this.
(https://i.ibb.co/1bcWHR4/kefico.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JCZJXrS)
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what do you mean " CAPS "
Caps = condensors
Mate the problem with the too thin track theory is those two large blackened solder connections. I suggest two possibilities, that the associated component or pin connections have had a high current draw.
Over the years, I have found that components that draw excessive current, will continue to do so, short, or go open. They rarely, if ever, go from fail to perfect to fail.
Or somehow there was current between them eg carbon tracking. ( less likely in an encased unit.)
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@RVTOS, Welcome!
Thanks for your input, photos and feedback in this thread. When you joined the first thing I did was google your location. Hadn't heard of Reunion. Such a tiny island with over 800,000 people! We only have a bit over 500,000 in Tasmania which is far bigger.
Be interested to hear more about Reunion some time in general chat.
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what do you mean " CAPS "
Caps = condensors
Mate the problem with the too thin track theory is those two large blackened solder connections. I suggest two possibilities, that the associated component or pin connections have had a high current draw.
Over the years, I have found that components that draw excessive current, will continue to do so, short, or go open. They rarely, if ever, go from fail to perfect to fail.
Or somehow there was current between them eg carbon tracking. ( less likely in an encased unit.)
:whsaid: capacitors