i30 Owners Club
MODIFYING OR DETAILING YOUR I30 => EXTERIOR => Topic started by: BrendanP on September 22, 2020, 15:55:56
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I've just fitted a towbar to my 2015 GD Hatch, it wasn't as difficult or expensive as I anticipated. The attached notes and photos may be useful to anyone else that feels like tackling it themselves.
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Well done. Thanks for sharing I'll stick this topic so it doesn't get lost. :cool:
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Looks great. Nice job.
Looks like it retracts, is that right?
Have you got a link to where you got it please? :cool:
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This is my actual purchase;
:link: Detachable towbar hook Hyundai i30 3/5-door 2012 onwards | eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Detachable-towbar-hook-Hyundai-i30-3-5-door-2012-onwards-/172490007698)
However, they're not listing it now, not sure why. The towbar isn't retractable, it pulls straight out horizontally when the release lever is pushed all the way down. It can then be stowed away in the bag provided, and a plastic clip pushed into the hole to keep the muck out. The electrics kit I bought separately;
:link: 7-Pin Universal (Bypass) Wiring Kit (https://www.towsure.com/single-7-pin-towbar-wiring-kit-bypass-n-type)
The towbar came with a bracket to mount the socket, I used that instead of the plate that comes with the wiring kit.
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A few more photos showing cable entry into spare wheel well; bypass relay; connections to rear light cluster wiring loom
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Thanks for all this info Brendan. :cool:
Can you please just confirm where you took your 12v aux power from, please? Are there no 12v live wires in boot area when ignition is on? I only have a very basic trailer light board so no heavy drains.
It's the last job, everything else is ready to go. Thanks.
Martin.
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My car has a 12V power socket in the boot, attached to the parcel shelf support on the right hand side. I took the supply from the wire that is connected to the central electrode of that socket, which is live when the ignition switch is turned to the 1st position.
It is a 2015 face-lifted SE, I don't know if the socket was standard on lower spec versions, but the wiring might be there, even if the plug connector is just dangling loose.
On my previous 2011 i30, which had no socket, I had to run a new wire to the fuse board by the drivers' right knee, which meant pulling the trim off along the bottom edge of the doors so I could push the wire under the carpet. On my car, there are some spare ways in the fuse-board, though I've never had a look on the back side of it to see how to connect wiring to it. Alternatively, you can get a piggy-back fuse adaptor that plugs in like a normal fuse, but has a flying lead connected that you can can connect to your new supply wire with an insulated butt splice crimp, or even a soldered joint with some heatshrink tubing over the top.
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Thanks for that Brendan. I'll have a look in the morning.
Fingers crossed for a feed.
Fitted loads of stereos and amps in the past and know the aggro of taking all the trim off.. :head_knock:
Luckily the extra bits of loom I've needed in this car have been there, which was nice.
I'll report my findings later. 😎👍