Post by: i30CRDI on April 12, 2017, 03:47:31
I rang the local dealer where we purchased the car and they said to bring it in next week as they can't look at it until after easter. Anyway I decided to take a closer look and could feel the play in the steering and knocking both when engine running and not running. First of all I drove the car up on ramps but nothing much to see as steering shaft etc mostly sealed. Then I discovered the universal joint on the inside below the steering wheel after pulling the carpet back a little, with a powerful torch I watched the UJ while I rocked the steering wheel and could 'see the play' on the splines and the upper shaft turning but not the lower due to the play. The 12mm bolt looked tight enough but when I got a socket on it i got a quarter of a turn and guess what no more play or knocking. So it appears that even though my VIN is outside of the range mentioned in the recall notice I had an incorrectly torqued bolt or worn splines. I will keep a close eye on it as its fairly accessible but just wanted to mention this in case others have similar issues.
Cheers
Mark
Late addition from nzenigma: Mark's post leads to some informative discussion about the problem.
You will find repair tips for the advanced DIY owner.
Discussion about true workshop time and overcharging, usually by dealerships.
Go to page 3 for examples of realistic pricing and honest mechanics.
Post by: tw2005 on April 12, 2017, 08:18:36
I just dropped the Wife off in her 2008 i30 CRDI and noticed a knock on the steering. I read on another thread that there had been a recall :link: Hyundai Motor Company Australia Pty Ltd?Hyundai i30 (FD) Vehicle | Product Safety Australia (https://www.productsafety.gov.au/recall/hyundai-motor-company-australia-pty-ltd-hyundai-i30-fd-vehicle?source=recalls)
I rang the local dealer where we purchased the car and they said to bring it in next week as they can't look at it until after easter. Anyway I decided to take a closer look and could feel the play in the steering and knocking both when engine running and not running. First of all I drove the car up on ramps but nothing much to see as steering shaft etc mostly sealed. Then I discovered the universal joint on the inside below the steering wheel after pulling the carpet back a little, with a powerful torch I watched the UJ while I rocked the steering wheel and could 'see the play' on the splines and the upper shaft turning but not the lower due to the play. The 12mm bolt looked tight enough but when I got a socket on it i got a quarter of a turn and guess what no more play or knocking. So it appears that even though my VIN is outside of the range mentioned in the recall notice I had an correctly torqued bolt or worn splines. I will keep a close eye on it as its fairly accessible but just wanted to mention this in case others have similar issues.
Cheers
Mark
Interesting news. I have a 2008 , same problem. Just been to lazy to fault find it. maybe I should follow suit. I'd be wrapped if I just need to nip up the coupling.
Post by: nzenigma on April 13, 2017, 08:55:26
The knock is a bit hard to locate and you tend to suspect the uni joint area, but it is not really prone to wear.
If it is the bush, it will have disintegrated. The knock will be greater when the power steer is engaged.
Post by: tw2005 on April 13, 2017, 11:43:56
The recall is for a rubber bush in the steering column. I have replaced a few. On my wife's 2009 FD did it twice. Seems that the replacement bush you get from the dealer is not always made from the 'improved' rubber.
The knock is a bit hard to locate and you tend to suspect the uni joint area, but it is not really prone to wear.
If it is the bush, it will have disintegrated. The knock will be greater when the power steer is engaged.
Do you have copies of them all or reference numbers? What range was the bushing recall for because I can't find it and both of mine have been in to Hyundai. One needed the brake switch, the other had it done already but needed the MDPS software checked.
PRA No.
2014/14475
Date published
9 Dec 2014
VIN range KMHDB51ER8U029385 - KMHDC51TR8U095415
Production date June 1 2007 - Mar 31 2008
universal joint bolt on the steering column has been incorrectly tightened
PRA No.
2015/14883
Date published
26 Aug 2015
Hyundai Elantra (HD) & i30 (FD) motor driven power steering (MDPS)
MDPS inspected for either steering motor replacement or a software upgrade.
There was a TSB I stumbled on but can't find the copy now which is what I think you're talking about for the coupling.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxMjAw/z/0IcAAOSw241YWo8D/$_12.JPG?set_id=880000500F)
(http://www.everythingmechanical.com.au/motor%20i30.jpg)
Post by: Dazzler on April 13, 2017, 11:55:15
Should be on here somewhere?
Post by: Surferdude on April 13, 2017, 12:06:12
But when the recall TSB was issued, my VIN was outside the range.
Fulcrum Suspension replaced it for me for free anyway.
Post by: tw2005 on April 13, 2017, 14:42:33
I have a copy of the TSB# HFE08-61-P020-FDHD (14 page PDF)
Should be on here somewhere?
yep, you're right. I remember now, most of those links were dead. Found this one in english.
http://club.hyundai-i30.ru/download.php?id=2907 (http://club.hyundai-i30.ru/download.php?id=2907)
Post by: nzenigma on April 13, 2017, 22:41:58
Gerard the bush in the picture is still in good shape compared to the last one I did.
It appears that Hyundai used this $5 bush in most of their models sold in Euro, Oz and USA.
I have seen blogs claiming the knock is in the steering rack, uni joint, etc etc. The source is really hard to pin down.
Post by: tw2005 on April 13, 2017, 22:52:09
Been away. You seem to have it all now .I think you're right. I had a quick look last night. could be anywhere especially with my distance travelled. It's not bad enough too panic yet but I've got the 40K rack and steering unit gathering dust.
Gerard the bush in the picture is still in good shape compared to the last one I did.
It appears that Hyundai used this $5 bush in most of their models sold in Euro, Oz and USA.
I have seen blogs claiming the knock is in the steering rack, uni joint, etc etc. The source is really hard to pin down.
Post by: nzenigma on April 13, 2017, 23:25:25
You can overcome a need to reset centre if you mark the TDC of the column when you get the steering wheel off and mark to refit the uni shaft to the same position on the steering rack spline.
The bush replacement is quite simple, (10 minutes) the removal and refit of the column is 2hrs of contortion .
Post by: nzenigma on April 13, 2017, 23:49:06
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7k17LIy6B0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7k17LIy6B0)
It gives you some idea of the area on the power steer, but for some reason, he tries to work on it under the dash
(he's a Pom :rolleyes:).
There is a better one , but I cant find it, that was done by a Canadian bloke. Therefore, he is quite practical and intelligent. :happydance: If you don't pick the Canadian accent, you know he isn't American because he does not wear gloves, safety goggles, a cap or a dustcoat. :mrgreen:
In my opinion, he has the sense to unplug the motor and undo the 12mm shaft to rack bolt ; then do the bush change on a workbench.
Post by: tw2005 on April 14, 2017, 00:05:14
But at 40K, that rack may not have had the bush changed. For all the effort and $5 I would replace it anyway. Also you will need to reset the 'electronic centre' or else ESP will not function.
You can overcome a need to reset centre if you mark the TDC of the column when you get the steering wheel off and mark to refit the uni shaft to the same position on the steering rack spline.
The bush replacement is quite simple, (10 minutes) the removal and refit of the column is 2hrs of contortion .
The thought has crossed my mind. I doubt very much it has been changed.Is the new part really better?
You know the taxi has no knock at all LOL. :crazy2:
Post by: tw2005 on April 14, 2017, 00:06:40
I found this on U Tube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7k17LIy6B0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7k17LIy6B0)
It gives you some idea of the area on the power steer, but for some reason, he tries to work on it under the dash
(he's a Pom :rolleyes:).
There is a better one , but I cant find it, that was done by a Canadian bloke. Therefore, he is quite practical and intelligent. :happydance: If you don't pick the Canadian accent, you know he isn't American because he does not wear gloves, safety goggles, a cap or a dustcoat. :mrgreen:
In my opinion, he has the sense to unplug the motor and undo the 12mm shaft to rack bolt ; then do the bush change on a workbench.
yeah I've seen a few including this one. All very interesting
Post by: nzenigma on April 14, 2017, 03:34:37
This under dash job is ok if you have done it before. Note he has it all apart at the start. And the bush is not a mess like your pix above.
He mentions three torx screws needed to open drive, there is also a square unit to one side that houses the electronic controller, it needs to come off; it is a plug in unit but the plug has a lot of fine pins so you cant be too rough when you reassemble it.
Post by: PhireSideZA on July 18, 2017, 08:42:39
I noticed my car falls under the VIN range for the incorrect tightening torque for the universal joint so I may check to see how loose/tight it is this weekend. I have a slight knock at times but nothing serious. If it can be remedied with a bit of a tighten, so be it. If not, I will deal with it a bit longer until I get the guts together to remove the motor and swap out the plastic gear thingamabob :goodjob2:
Post by: nzenigma on July 18, 2017, 22:04:24
Post by: nzenigma on September 20, 2017, 02:51:02
I have a 2010 FD with 118,000km on the clock. It had a very slight play in the steering. A knocking sound seemed to be coming from the uni shaft going through the floor into the steering rack.
I would expect much more play and noise if it was the rubber bush, but decided to check anyway. Good Choice.
(https://i.imgur.com/qdRqmik.jpg)
Post by: Dazzler on September 20, 2017, 03:50:46
Looks like something our puppy chewed for a week! :crazy1:
Post by: Surferdude on September 20, 2017, 03:53:21
Thought I would update this topic because it does recur quite often.Mine was worse when Fulcrum pulled it out.
I have a 2010 FD with 118,000km on the clock. It had a very slight play in the steering. A knocking sound seemed to be coming from the uni shaft going through the floor into the steering rack.
I would expect much more play and noise if it was the rubber bush, but decided to check anyway. Good Choice.
(https://i.imgur.com/qdRqmik.jpg)
All those "appendages" on yours were just loose bits of fluff on mine. :crazy1:
Post by: nzenigma on September 20, 2017, 06:31:09
Post by: Surferdude on September 20, 2017, 06:46:01
Yes I can understand that. I posted this because it was far more damaged than I expected, given the minor rattle.Sorry. I wasn't playing, " mines bigger than yours". :whistler:
Mine was a minor knock which suddenly became a much louder knock. It would seem the wear accelerates the longer you go.
The drive to Moorooka to get it fixed was interesting to say the least.
Post by: nzenigma on September 20, 2017, 08:41:45
Sorry. I wasn't playing, " mines bigger than yours". :whistler::whistler: As we do :D
No problem mate, rapid failure of the bushes has surprised me in the past. Amazing the drama a $5 component can cause.
However there are a lot of mechanics who go off half cocked and claim to the client that it is a major problem (plus major$$$$) without understanding the true cause.
Hopefully the post will inform them.
Cheers G :)
Post by: crazykev on October 15, 2017, 06:13:49
Variations/more details than TSB:-
1. Take the two screws out of the front of the steering shroud (you have to turn the wheel), Then Force the steering lock before you do next step.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. There is one minor connector behind the mobis steering computer unit that goes back to the main loom. Its hard it figure out whether it has to be disconnected. You have to make sure is unclipped or you could easily break when you unbolt the column..
4. Be sure to mark the spline of the steering shaft to the column and reassemble is same position and don't get yourself 360deg out (I made sure of this and there was no problem with faults etc).
5. I did it without splitting the column. You have to be very ginger with the motor and cant completely lift it off, I used a couple of toothbrushes to clean up the union as my bush was completely chewed like the one above (nzenigma). I just pulled the column forward and did it in the car with the heavy end on a little kids stool. Then i lifted the motor off and up on an angle and used a allen key to get the bad rubber out and brushed all the gunky rubber out. (took a while).
6. When putting the rack back up seat it at the back bolts first there is a bit of a clip there to hold in in place then put the front nuts on loosely then get those back bolts in.
7. Make sure you have every connector re-attached and seated or it will throw a code and you'll have to deal with a hyundai dealer (which is awful)
8. I think if a mechanic will do this for you for $300-$350. Thats a good deal.
I didn't take any photos of the bush itself because that bit isnt that complicated. The last photo has the connector i nearly broke circled. My car steers like a charm now, happy that it all went well and wasnt any major hassles.
(https://image.ibb.co/g1jFqb/P1000709.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://image.ibb.co/dbLMVb/P1000716.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://image.ibb.co/kA3aqb/P1000721.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Post by: Dazzler on October 15, 2017, 08:38:38
Post by: tw2005 on October 15, 2017, 09:37:48
Post by: nzenigma on October 15, 2017, 21:38:18
The couplings are available at a HY dealer spares dept. I get mine at Brendale.
Post by: Paolo5 on October 15, 2017, 23:19:04
What actually makes this bush degrade?
Is it:-
*time
*amount of km travelled
*amount of city driving (involving lots of steering input) as opposed to open road driving
*repeatedly turning the steering wheel whilst the wheels are stationary
*something else
I have read somewhere that there is a newish/improved bush that supposedly lasts longer. Is this true...and if so, how much more durable is it than the original one. How can this more durable bush be identified?
Post by: Surferdude on October 16, 2017, 00:16:53
Here is one for our resident techies:-Interesting question.
What actually makes this bush degrade?
Is it:-
*time
*amount of km travelled
*amount of city driving (involving lots of steering input) as opposed to open road driving
*repeatedly turning the steering wheel whilst the wheels are stationary
*something else
I have read somewhere that there is a newish/improved bush that supposedly lasts longer. Is this true...and if so, how much more durable is it than the original one. How can this more durable bush be identified?
One would only hope that Hy has recognized the issue and developed a more durable item.
It's been a problem since very early in the FD existence.
And, as most cars now have EPS, do other manufacturers have a similar bush? (not suggesting they're interchangeable, just be interesting to know how their compound compares with Hy's).
Post by: mickd on October 16, 2017, 00:53:05
Here is one for our resident techies:-Interesting question.
What actually makes this bush degrade?
Is it:-
*time
*amount of km travelled
*amount of city driving (involving lots of steering input) as opposed to open road driving
*repeatedly turning the steering wheel whilst the wheels are stationary
*something else
I have read somewhere that there is a newish/improved bush that supposedly lasts longer. Is this true...and if so, how much more durable is it than the original one. How can this more durable bush be identified?
One would only hope that Hy has recognized the issue and developed a more durable item.
It's been a problem since very early in the FD existence.
And, as most cars now have EPS, do other manufacturers have a similar bush? (not suggesting they're interchangeable, just be interesting to know how their compound compares with Hy's).
Good question indeed !
Maybe they all.use the same bush and all have the same problem $$$$
Post by: nzenigma on October 16, 2017, 04:04:05
*time
*amount of km travelled
*amount of city driving (involving lots of steering input) as opposed to open road driving
*repeatedly turning the steering wheel whilst the wheels are stationary
*something else
how much more durable is it than the original one. How can this more durable bush be identified?
Hi mate. Last question first. The new ones are supposed to be more durable but :whistler: we await. They look exactly like the pictured ones of old. But the only ones I have seen are damaged beyond recognition.
Re your first 5 questions,; I have to say none of them seem to apply.
Some examples:
2009 FD replaced at about 60,000km in 2013
2010 FD replaced at 118,000 km in 2017
2011 FD replaced at 23,800 km in 2016 ( this part was in storage at 23K before re-use; broke down soon after.)
2009 FD still ok at 112,000km in 2017.
2011 FD still ok at 24,500 km in 2017
and Mick , to my knowledge this bush is only in Hyundai columns and it is a problem here and North America.
Not sure about Europe, maybe someone can speak to that.
Post by: Surferdude on October 16, 2017, 04:18:29
You can add my 2009 FD at 80,000 klms in 2015.*time
*amount of km travelled
*amount of city driving (involving lots of steering input) as opposed to open road driving
*repeatedly turning the steering wheel whilst the wheels are stationary
*something else
how much more durable is it than the original one. How can this more durable bush be identified?
Hi mate. Last question first. The new ones are supposed to be more durable but :whistler: we await. They look exactly like the pictured ones of old. But the only ones I have seen are damaged beyond recognition.
Re your first 5 questions,; I have to say none of them seem to apply.
Some examples:
2009 FD replaced at about 60,000km in 2013
2010 FD replaced at 118,000 km in 2017
2011 FD replaced at 23,800 km in 2016
2009 FD still ok at 112,000km in 2017.
2011 FD still ok at 24,500 km in 2017
and Mick , to my knowledge this bush is only in Hyundai columns and it is a problem here and North America.
Not sure about Europe, maybe someone can speak to that.
And I'm pretty sure the tech bulletiin first used on here was of European origin.
Post by: Paolo5 on October 16, 2017, 04:21:45
*time
*amount of km travelled
*amount of city driving (involving lots of steering input) as opposed to open road driving
*repeatedly turning the steering wheel whilst the wheels are stationary
*something else
how much more durable is it than the original one. How can this more durable bush be identified?
Hi mate. Last question first. The new ones are supposed to be more durable but :whistler: we await. They look exactly like the pictured ones of old. But the only ones I have seen are damaged beyond recognition.
Re your first 5 questions,; I have to say none of them seem to apply.
Some examples:
2009 FD replaced at about 60,000km in 2013
2010 FD replaced at 118,000 km in 2017
2011 FD replaced at 23,800 km in 2016
2009 FD still ok at 112,000km in 2017.
2011 FD still ok at 24,500 km in 2017
and Mick , to my knowledge this bush is only in Hyundai columns and it is a problem here and North America.
Not sure about Europe, maybe someone can speak to that.
Thanks for your reply guys...and especially for your (in-the-field) perspective NZEnigma..
Gees! Seemingly random km in the ones that you listed..
I am wondering if any of the higher km i30's still have their original bush..
Do you have a hunch about what it is that makes them self-destruct?
Post by: nzenigma on October 16, 2017, 05:40:42
Could be just a chemical break down.
Maybe heat is a factor?
I'm in Queensland and WE are seeing lots of failures.
I wonder how many Dazz is aware of in Tazzie?
Post by: Dazzler on October 16, 2017, 08:29:17
I did about 68k in my FD over 2 years without having the issue and am pretty sure @FatBoy didn't have an issue with his "bush" before he traded his FD
No other Tassie member has posted about the problem that I can recall.
Post by: FatBoy on October 16, 2017, 08:32:21
Tassie is poor for member numbers that's why I post so much to make up for it. :crazy1:
I did about 68k in my FD over 2 years without having the issue and am pretty sure @FatBoy didn't have an issue with his "bush" before he traded his FD
No other Tassie member has posted about the problem that I can recall.
I did about 80,000 km in the two years I had the car in Tassie, I didn't have any problems.
Post by: crazykev on October 16, 2017, 11:23:47
:link: OEM 563152K000FFF Flexible Steering Coupler For Hyundai Elantra Veloster Azera | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-563152K000FFF-Flexible-Steering-Coupler-For-Hyundai-Elantra-Veloster-Azera-/232492806435?hash=item3621a6b123:g:2BQAAOSwaWhZv-iS)
I figured if it was crap I could get the $28 hyundai dealer one. Its looked legit when I got it, so I used it.
Nah I wont be doing them for beer, though one could refine his skills and make some money out of this repair. I think the reason I posted, Is to say I think the kinda of person that can install say a car stereo and general servicing could do this job, if they take their time and don't force anything. I had my doubts as the TSB document is daunting but really once you skip taking the steering wheel off and leave the column in one piece it isnt that bad. Though its the kind of job that if you stuff up and break something it could cost you big bucks. Also you want a helper to lift the column back into place I think. And you really don't want to stuff up the position of the steering and need a re-calibration. That would be a pain. When you start the car again the EPS light will be on as it does every time you disconnect the battery - so dont freak out, you just need to start it, turn full lock Left to full lock right, turn it off again, restart and the EPS will go out.
As to questions regarding what drives the failures, i think there is alot of load on the piece of rubber/plastic considering the amount of torque pushed through it and the shock loads it would see. The oily greasy shavings I got out were very sticky. Like dissolved as nzenigma stated. I believe that it is a bad quality part that starts breaking down, but it is possible that the oily stickiness and disintegration is related to the amount of stress thats placed on the part. Another factor could be a highway miles thing. My car got to 150k but it did alot of highway miles with the previous owner - so less turns. City cars may fail earlier.
Post by: nzenigma on October 16, 2017, 21:25:05
The reason I take the steering wheel off when I do the job , also light & ind stalks that simply unclip, is to give me more space and balance when refitting the repaired unit. No trouble doing it alone that way.
Post by: nzenigma on October 16, 2017, 22:06:14
or dementia departs briefly... :head_butt:
The problem could be too little use. Hard driving could make the bush last longer..
After modifying my post to say one column had not been used for about 2 years , then failed, I remembered BOOTS , as you do! :mrgreen:
A few years ago work boots started to come on the market with a new type of rubber composition sole. They withstood oil acid etc were long-lasting and generally out lived the leather boot. My boot soles were perfect after 2 years or more.
But, if you were just a physical dreamer and put them in the cupboard for the annual look-at-me-day, you would find the soles were breaking down, smelt perished and eventually they just fell off the boot.
The new rubber and or the adhesive was chemically breaking down ( basically :spitty:)
BUSH SOLVED :D
Post by: crazykev on October 16, 2017, 22:47:27
Post by: Paolo5 on October 16, 2017, 23:59:42
I see what you are saying. I had a similar experience too. I had some Oliver work boots I didn't use much coz they were the wrong size and left in the cupboard for 5 years and the Polyethylene soles degraded in a very similar way. So maybe it inst linked anything aside from which batch the part came from.
Just to be sure then...I will take my i30 out of the cupboard! :rofl:
Both your comment and NZEnigma's make sense. Thanks.
Post by: Surferdude on October 17, 2017, 00:25:05
At that time, late 2015, his stores hadn't seen anywhere enough failures to make it worthwhile.
Post by: Dazzler on October 17, 2017, 00:57:24
Just as a matter of interest, I asked Graham Smith at Fulcrum Suspensions about the possibilty of them making the bush.
At that time, late 2015, his stores hadn't seen anywhere enough failures to make it worthwhile.
These days it would be a super easy part to 3D scan and make with a 3D printer. Whether anyone could make it out of something longer lasting than the original would be the problem, being that most 3D printers use plastic of some sort or other..
Post by: nzenigma on October 17, 2017, 01:31:14
Just as a matter of interest, I asked Graham Smith at Fulcrum Suspensions about the possibilty of them making the bush.
At that time, late 2015, his stores hadn't seen anywhere enough failures to make it worthwhile.
Yes mate, I tend to agree with him. It seems 5-6 years is the critical period. Had I known what I do now I would have saved myself the agro of having to install then reinstall the 23K one .
Post by: nzenigma on October 17, 2017, 01:34:38
These days it would be a super easy part to 3D scan and make with a 3D printer. Whether anyone could make it out of something longer lasting than the original would be the problem, being that most 3D printers use plastic of some sort or other..
Get Gonz to run it past NASA. :)
Post by: Dazzler on October 17, 2017, 02:21:25
These days it would be a super easy part to 3D scan and make with a 3D printer. Whether anyone could make it out of something longer lasting than the original would be the problem, being that most 3D printers use plastic of some sort or other..
Get Gonz to run it past NASA. :)
@The Gonz
Post by: tw2005 on October 17, 2017, 05:44:10
These days it would be a super easy part to 3D scan and make with a 3D printer. Whether anyone could make it out of something longer lasting than the original would be the problem, being that most 3D printers use plastic of some sort or other..
Get Gonz to run it past NASA. :)
Didn't they lose two Shuttles?
Post by: nzenigma on October 17, 2017, 06:02:36
These days it would be a super easy part to 3D scan and make with a 3D printer. Whether anyone could make it out of something longer lasting than the original would be the problem, being that most 3D printers use plastic of some sort or other..
Get Gonz to run it past NASA. :)
Didn't they lose two Shuttles?
That was early on, no losses with the new steering bush.
Post by: tw2005 on October 17, 2017, 06:17:11
:undecided:
These days it would be a super easy part to 3D scan and make with a 3D printer. Whether anyone could make it out of something longer lasting than the original would be the problem, being that most 3D printers use plastic of some sort or other..
Get Gonz to run it past NASA. :)
Didn't they lose two Shuttles?
That was early on, no losses with the new steering bush.
Post by: The Gonz on October 17, 2017, 07:20:38
I'll get Frank my VICPOL schoolchum to look into a 3D model - he owes me a $200 save when I brought his 3D printer back to life. The thermoplastics used in most 3D printing are ABS and PLA. If the material doesn't stand up to the rigour, perhaps the outcome will serve to create a viable mould. :victory:
Post by: nzenigma on October 17, 2017, 09:46:25
I see that Dazz is in lock step too. :winker:
PS can we get the price down a bit... they were only $5 ?
Post by: The Gonz on October 18, 2017, 09:32:20
Not $5 but I don't know whether 3D printing is viable at that price! :crazy1:
Post by: Dazzler on October 18, 2017, 10:29:52
Hey I just checked and they're $15 on eBay free delivery.
Not $5 but I don't know whether 3D printing is viable at that price! :crazy1:
It wasn't the cost, it was the durability I was thinking about!
Post by: The Gonz on October 18, 2017, 20:33:26
Post by: tw2005 on October 18, 2017, 21:40:45
Post by: nzenigma on October 18, 2017, 22:06:25
> news of a rattle in a Hyundai
> list every rattle this decade for Paolo
> give up :spitty:
> return with work boots
> Paolo admits he is insane (keeps his i30 in a cupboard)
> The Gonz :phone1: calls NASA
> we will print an i30
> Gerard looses 2 shuttles
> we negotiate the deal ($15)
Post by: Dazzler on October 18, 2017, 22:18:09
5 for $13, 10 for $23
:eek:
But will they last?
Another rambling topic from the asylum ? :wacko::rofl:
> news of a rattle in a Hyundai
> list every rattle this decade for Paolo
> give up :spitty:
> return with work boots
> Paolo admits he is insane (keeps his i30 in a cupboard)
> The Gonz :phone1: calls NASA
> we will print an i30
> Gerard looses 2 shuttles
> we negotiate the deal ($15)
Post by: The Gonz on October 19, 2017, 07:42:59
Post by: Paolo5 on October 19, 2017, 10:45:51
:lol: :judges:
Wot the Gonz said....!
Post by: tw2005 on November 01, 2017, 07:17:03
5 for $13, 10 for $23
better hold off on the Ebay bargians, they just arrived not in OEM package . Likely clones
@nzenigma Do you have a live one you can photo both sides for a comparo.
Post by: The Gonz on November 01, 2017, 07:30:33
P.S. I'll keep a look out for some in Madrid next week, where I'll also pick up a couple of Clubi30.es keyrings during our street meet. :D
Post by: tw2005 on November 01, 2017, 07:36:39
The entire asylum awaits with bated breath.
P.S. I'll keep a look out for some in Madrid next week, where I'll also pick up a couple of Clubi30.es keyrings during our street meet. :D
Well actually you just gave me an idea. How about Keyrings with the couplings attached.
I've got a unit here I could dismantle. It could be they can order these in workshop bulk but it's not what I expected. probably better than no coupling.
Post by: The Gonz on November 01, 2017, 07:40:12
Post by: tw2005 on November 01, 2017, 07:48:37
Funny you should say that, Gerard. I did my annual F88 shoot today and according to the latest directive, cut out the stiff auscam dividers in the ammo pouches. I collected them all from the group and will cut them up and attach keyrings for my cadets. :lol:
I think that's a private conversation. I refuse to discuss such silliness. I had a perfectly good non compliant pouch which I was told to replace to now be told I'm non compliant again. :spitty:
Post by: The Gonz on November 01, 2017, 07:54:37
I refuse to discuss such silliness. I had a perfectly good non compliant pouch which I was told to replace to now be told I'm non compliant again. :spitty:Just like this friend of mine who slung his F88 off his body armour with a carabiner years before it became the compliant way to do it! :crazy1:
Post by: tw2005 on November 01, 2017, 07:56:33
I refuse to discuss such silliness. I had a perfectly good non compliant pouch which I was told to replace to now be told I'm non compliant again. :spitty:Just like this friend of mine who slung his F88 off his body armour with a carabiner years before it became the compliant way to do it! :crazy1:
yeah, can't add much more , speaks for itself. Enjoy the trip.
Post by: nzenigma on November 01, 2017, 08:05:03
5 for $13, 10 for $23
better hold off on the Ebay bargians, they just arrived not in OEM package . Likely clones
@nzenigma Do you have a live one you can photo both sides for a comparo.
Sorry used the last one on the above job. I got a few from Hyundai at Brendale $5 each. But feel Im behind the pack :Shocked: :disapp:
Post by: The Gonz on November 01, 2017, 08:09:29
Enjoy the trip.
Post by: tw2005 on November 01, 2017, 08:20:21
5 for $13, 10 for $23
better hold off on the Ebay bargians, they just arrived not in OEM package . Likely clones
@nzenigma Do you have a live one you can photo both sides for a comparo.
Sorry used the last one on the above job. I got a few from Hyundai at Brendale $5 each. But feel Im behind the pack :Shocked: :disapp:
Right, I thought someone quoted $30 at the dealer. mates rates?
Post by: nzenigma on November 01, 2017, 21:04:34
Post by: tw2005 on November 02, 2017, 10:28:55
Correct, my mate with the workshop brought it up, $28-$30 from a dealer apparently.
I think they're ok. after looking at quite a few images and noticing genuine packs of 10 then that would explain the Non OEM packet. they do have 99.5% rating and no complaints about these which is as good as you get really
Post by: nzenigma on January 24, 2018, 21:56:28
Correct, my mate with the workshop brought it up, $28-$30 from a dealer apparently.
I think they're ok. after looking at quite a few images and noticing genuine packs of 10 then that would explain the Non OEM packet. they do have 99.5% rating and no complaints about these which is as good as you get really
The new wagon has the dreaded knock so went to my usual Brendale supplier and asked for 4 bushes.
Parts guy with charisma by-pass returns with 3 - "that's all I have in stock gimme $66.00".
What happened to $5 each?
That's the new hyundai price.
Well guess what, you now have 3 bushes back in stock.
Duhh?
I now have 10 coming from Korea for $38.00 post free.
Post by: Dazzler on January 24, 2018, 22:40:02
Post by: tw2005 on January 25, 2018, 02:24:31
@nzenigma I would have went psst, mate . Got any spares. You owe me and mate would have gone , sure got 5 and then you would have gone here's me address and mate would have gone , already got it, then you would have gone sweet and mate would have gone, anytime. :goodjob:Correct, my mate with the workshop brought it up, $28-$30 from a dealer apparently.
I think they're ok. after looking at quite a few images and noticing genuine packs of 10 then that would explain the Non OEM packet. they do have 99.5% rating and no complaints about these which is as good as you get really
The new wagon has the dreaded knock so went to my usual Brendale supplier and asked for 4 bushes.
Parts guy with charisma by-pass returns with 3 - "that's all I have in stock gimme $66.00".
What happened to $5 each?
That's the new hyundai price.
Well guess what, you now have 3 bushes back in stock.
Duhh?
I now have 10 coming from Korea for $38.00 post free.
:crazy1: :crazy2: :phone1: :faint: :fum:
Post by: nzenigma on January 26, 2018, 04:40:00
that's Ippi style, I like it.
PS, Im in NZ for a while. :( Cheers
Post by: tw2005 on January 26, 2018, 04:41:45
:rofl:Yeah, no wories mate. Understood. Take care :goodjob2:
that's Ippi style, I like it.
PS, Im in NZ for a while. :( Cheers
Post by: everyman on April 02, 2018, 04:25:55
Post by: tw2005 on April 02, 2018, 06:49:56
I've had the same issue. It got worse and worse until I finally got my mechanic to fix it. Was not as expensive as you'd think.Don't be shy tell us more, like who and how much if you're happy with the outcome. :goodjob2:
Post by: nzenigma on April 02, 2018, 06:57:31
I've had the same issue. It got worse and worse until I finally got my mechanic to fix it. Was not as expensive as you'd think.Don't be shy tell us more, like who and how much if you're happy with the outcome. :goodjob2:
From me too, Ive been ratting on about dealers rorting this problem, so back me up please :D
Post by: tw2005 on April 02, 2018, 07:05:38
Ratting, :whistler: something on your mind, Rattus rattus?I've had the same issue. It got worse and worse until I finally got my mechanic to fix it. Was not as expensive as you'd think.Don't be shy tell us more, like who and how much if you're happy with the outcome. :goodjob2:
From me too, Ive been ratting on about dealers rorting this problem, so back me up please :D
(https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/384253_f520.jpg)
Post by: nzenigma on April 02, 2018, 22:37:45
Very good mate :goodjob:
(Too subtle to explain folks)
Post by: everyman on April 03, 2018, 00:34:33
Well.......I've had the same issue. It got worse and worse until I finally got my mechanic to fix it. Was not as expensive as you'd think.Don't be shy tell us more, like who and how much if you're happy with the outcome. :goodjob2:
It started as a slight knock when turning the wheel left or right. The slackness increased over a few months until every bump in the road induced a sharp tap in the steering wheel.
My .mechanic fixed it for $240.
Post by: nzenigma on April 03, 2018, 00:50:53
Well.......I've had the same issue. It got worse and worse until I finally got my mechanic to fix it. Was not as expensive as you'd think.Don't be shy tell us more, like who and how much if you're happy with the outcome. :goodjob2:
It started as a slight knock when turning the wheel left or right. The slackness increased over a few months until every bump in the road induced a sharp tap in the steering wheel.
My .mechanic fixed it for $240.
Thanks for that, you are talking about an honest and competent mechanic. If you want to attach his name ( with his permission) I don't think anyone here will object. :goodjob2:
Post by: everyman on April 03, 2018, 00:53:38
Gary Harris. Harris Automotive in Archerfield qldWell.......I've had the same issue. It got worse and worse until I finally got my mechanic to fix it. Was not as expensive as you'd think.Don't be shy tell us more, like who and how much if you're happy with the outcome. :goodjob2:
It started as a slight knock when turning the wheel left or right. The slackness increased over a few months until every bump in the road induced a sharp tap in the steering wheel.
My .mechanic fixed it for $240.
Thanks for that, you are talking about an honest and competent mechanic. If you want to attach his name ( with his permission) I don't think anyone here will object. :goodjob2:
Post by: mickd on April 03, 2018, 07:26:09
Ratting, :whistler: something on your mind, Rattus rattus?I've had the same issue. It got worse and worse until I finally got my mechanic to fix it. Was not as expensive as you'd think.Don't be shy tell us more, like who and how much if you're happy with the outcome. :goodjob2:
From me too, Ive been ratting on about dealers rorting this problem, so back me up please :D
(https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/384253_f520.jpg)
:rofl:
Post by: nzenigma on April 04, 2018, 09:03:41
Mark is an honest and reliable mechanic , also a friend of mine.
He has been doing the steering bush replacement for a few years. His charge is also $ 240.
(https://i.imgur.com/v5Pc6qD.jpg)
Post by: tw2005 on June 08, 2018, 09:32:51
Now Mrs said to me there was a knock, being the over rated expert I am I tested the car and said , nah that's nothing.
So after the dirty scumbag nicked my plates on Monday, I borrowed the Taxi. Hmmm, got a bloody knock in it but only noticed at parking.
Got home, hey honey, steering got a weird knock.
" I told you ........... :twisted: :noshits: :argh: :argh: :argh: :argh: :argh: :argh: :argh:"
:sweating: survived that storm and then proceeded to replace it this afternoon.
All fixed, but old one was disintegrating and was very very soft a bit like when rubber goes gooey with age.
Oh, and no zeroising required, that's 3 / 3 I've escaped pulling this steering assembly apart,
(https://i.imgur.com/V8KplMM.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/avOkUrQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xBstoa5.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/mcesWQr.jpg)
Post by: Dazzler on June 08, 2018, 11:21:51
Post by: tw2005 on June 08, 2018, 11:38:44
Jeepers it's was well and truly stuffed! :crazy1:C'mon, still in mint condition when you look at a few other images. Probably the difference between ignoring it and knowing something was not right.
I enjoy the end result, the journey sometimes is painful. :scared:
Post by: Surferdude on June 08, 2018, 11:48:55
Jeepers it's was well and truly stuffed! :crazy1:Like new.
Mine was in bits.
Many bits and none of the "arms" were recognizable as such.
Post by: nzenigma on June 08, 2018, 22:06:20
Probably the difference between ignoring it and knowing something was not right.
I enjoy the end result, the journey sometimes is painful. :scared:
Do we interpret the above as:
"although I am an expert in this field, I ignored the obvious because I crave to be reamed by my wife" ?
:twisted:
:whistler:
Post by: tw2005 on June 08, 2018, 22:32:40
You may, but what i'm saying is early intervention is preferred and likelhy why it's still mainly intact.Probably the difference between ignoring it and knowing something was not right.
I enjoy the end result, the journey sometimes is painful. :scared:
Do we interpret the above as:
"although I am an expert in this field, I ignored the obvious because I crave to be reamed by my wife" ?
:twisted:
:whistler:
Also an after thought probably not related but i noticed some grease had entered the chamber from the column side. Just wondering if that may have set off a chemical reaction with the bushing?
I doubt it was plastic friendly lube. :idea:
Post by: Shambles on April 02, 2021, 10:16:30
Above link, courtesy of @ss3192
Post by: aranciataoz on April 03, 2021, 08:02:33
I found this on U TubeYep ... our MY13 GD Tourer CRDi had this bushing mashed away a month ago - well it probably had disintegrated sometime before but I noticed the knocking noise last month when turning the steering whilst the car was stationary (no noise thankfully when steering whilst car in motion).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7k17LIy6B0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7k17LIy6B0)
It gives you some idea of the area on the power steer, but for some reason, he tries to work on it under the dash
(he's a Pom :rolleyes:).
There is a better one , but I cant find it, that was done by a Canadian bloke. Therefore, he is quite practical and intelligent. :happydance: If you don't pick the Canadian accent, you know he isn't American because he does not wear gloves, safety goggles, a cap or a dustcoat. :mrgreen:
In my opinion, he has the sense to unplug the motor and undo the 12mm shaft to rack bolt ; then do the bush change on a workbench.
Our trusty mechanic had worked on this same issue with a Veloster and i20; for us $40 part and 3hrs labour later, he showed me the disintegrated bushing, explaining it stood no chance from the heat from the motor etc and our almost exclusive city driving.
Anyway on balance the $400+ bill might have been undesirable, but hey we’ve owned and driven 100k km of this car’s 122k km and this was our first unscheduled repair (aside from the Euro spec brake rotors eating themselves away every 50k km but hey that’s Euro soft pads and rotors for you!).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Pnut on April 03, 2021, 22:02:38
I noticed on our FD it makes a squelching noise about half way to full lock when turning the wheel to the right, only does it for part of the turn about mid way then stops. Haven't noticed it turning left but I haven't listened for it specifically. I thought it sounded like a dust boot slipping on the steering rod shaft but haven't been under to have a look yet.
Post by: Surferdude on April 03, 2021, 23:27:28
I have heard sounds like you describe which always turned out to be a shroud or plastic cover making light contact somewhere.
Post by: Pnut on April 04, 2021, 00:54:18
In my experience it's a definite knock.That was my first thought too, but reading this thread make me panic a little lol :crazy2:
I have heard sounds like you describe which always turned out to be a shroud or plastic cover making light contact somewhere.
Post by: The Gonz on April 07, 2021, 07:51:42
My questions of an accomplished thought leader as yourself @tw2005 are:
- how much unbolting can I manage to avoid? Can I do with removing plastic, lying upside down in the footwell - as I did for replacing the flasher unit for LEDs - and then removing the Mobus box before separating the coupling surfaces?
- does the end dashboard panel (with the fusebox lid) just pull off or are there concealed screws somewhere?
- what screw/bolt tips and sizes will I be needing (Torx, Phillips, hex, etc)?
Post by: PhireSideZA on May 29, 2021, 16:51:52
I'm finally attempting this over the weekend, as I am off on Monday so it gives me enough time to repair things in case I go wrong.
Today, I got as far as removing the dash and plastics around the steering column, and got 3/4 steering bolts loose. That pesky fourth one! My handy dandy Bosch socket set goes in sizes as follows: 5mm, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 11mm, 13mm! There is no 12mm so I had to resort to making a plan with the 13mm, being careful not to round the bolt off. The issue being I don't have enough leverage to apply enough torque to turn the bolt loose. I have a Pic-Quic screwdriver with a hex attachment that the socket fits into and has enough reach, but leverage is a problem. I tried with a shifting spanner on the hex piece on the screwdriver shaft but it's too soft and ended up rounding it off a little. As luck would have it, my 1/2" socket set has gone missing.
At this point I gave up for the day, as it's heading into winter here and by 17h00 it's pitch black outside so I will try again tomorrow after going out to buy a proper ratchet set first thing in the morning. All that's holding me back is the final bolt, then I can drop the rack, loosen the shaft and hopefully do the repair without any further hassles.
Post by: PhireSideZA on May 30, 2021, 11:13:21
The whole job is not one I would like to do again - I did it with the assembly still on the car, as I was reluctant to detach it from the splines in case I have steering angle sensor errors appear. What I also realised afterwards was that the two rear rack bolts are different lengths and I didn't notice which one was which when I removed them. IIRC, the longer bolt was towards the left side if you were seated in the driver's seat (RHD car).
Once my body stops aching I will go and inspect the UJ bolts, and see if I can spot anything there. My mind is at ease that I got it done at least, so it should be good for another 270k km!
Post by: Pnut on January 04, 2022, 01:10:54
To add to the other posts you will need to get a long reach T40 Torx bit to remove the steering air bag, and a Torx T25? to remove the motor from the steering column. I didn't have those so had to go down to Repco to get them, you will need to take the steering wheel off to access the screws holding the steering plastic cover off so you can get to the bolts underneath and all the wiring to unclip. I followed what you guys had posted here and in a couple of other threads, pulled the whole column out and replaced it on the bench (vice), however i didn't pull the whole frame apart but opted to follow the video at that point and wiggle the motor out enough to clear the debris and replace the coupling.
I started in the cool of the morning but hit a few snags and ended up finishing in the mid day heat, i would recommend fining a shady spot to do it if you can! :D Not sure if the dash had been apart before but the screws in by the fuse panel near the door were so tight they just stripped themselves in the clips so had to butcher the plastic a bit to get it out and then use panel washers when i put it back together. I am cooling down inside a bit before taking for a test drive, its a hot summer day here so trying to avoid getting out in the sun.
(https://i.ibb.co/FxP71k3/Coupling.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VjKBG09)
(https://i.ibb.co/QFpP0g1/IMG-5716.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XZj7HQv)
(https://i.ibb.co/w7wxPSj/IMG-5719.jpg) (https://ibb.co/42Y5X83)
Post by: Pnut on January 04, 2022, 01:26:33
Well, it's my extended "excess REC LVE" Easter break and I have a bag of couplings in one hand and a bunch of Youtube vids on the hard drive.IMHO after doing it today
My questions of an accomplished thought leader as yourself @tw2005 are:
- how much unbolting can I manage to avoid? Can I do with removing plastic, lying upside down in the footwell - as I did for replacing the flasher unit for LEDs - and then removing the Mobus box before separating the coupling surfaces?
- does the end dashboard panel (with the fusebox lid) just pull off or are there concealed screws somewhere?
- what screw/bolt tips and sizes will I be needing (Torx, Phillips, hex, etc)?
- I don't think you can access the motor side from the footwell inside the car, the MOBUS unit is in the way.
- 2 screws under the dash, pull the fuse panel cover off (clipped in) and 2 more screws behind the cover holding the dash on, then just clips holding the dash in place. The covers around the column have 1 screw underneath by the adjustment arm, but the other 2 screws are behind the steering wheel so that really needs to come off.
- Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, maybe a plastic panel pry set if you have one (i just used feel and my meager "brute" strength). T40 and T25 long reach Torx (I didn't see any tamperproof on the screws, but i didn't look and my tools were tamperproof anyway so...). 10mm socket for the steering universal lock bolt and the bolt holding the AC foot duct, the main bolts are 12mm extended socket to get over the long studs near the steering wheel end. Pretty sure that was all.
I will say this was a tad easier than replacing the steering column on the sons Pulsar recently after some pleb tried to steal it, at least with this you can slide the universal join up and down meaning you can position the column in place before trying to connect the universal joint back up. The Pulsar was about 15 years older than the i30 so didn't have the same impact absorbing column, Nissan was a right PITA to get back in.