Post by: tw2005 on November 14, 2016, 19:41:27
I popped under and sure enough grease is escaping from the Right side inner.
I have no manuals to go by but has anyone got any info on the process or even just the torque settings on the shaft nut?
I've done a pair of shafts before on a Mitsubishi so I'm hoping it's similar.
Is there a factory workshop manual available?
Post by: Dazzler on November 14, 2016, 20:16:27
Post by: sundiz on November 16, 2016, 03:42:18
Is there a factory workshop manual available?
:link: Hyundai i30 Workshop Manual (http://www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Hyundai/Hyundai-i30-Workshop-Manual.html)
Post by: tw2005 on November 16, 2016, 07:14:31
Oh and my shaft arrived $135 from Supercheap special order (10% off) GSP CVS.572 3yr 60 000k wty RHS 1.6 CRDI auto
Post by: cruiserfied on November 16, 2016, 09:50:41
The most important torque as you asked is the 32mm driveshaft/bearing preload.
196-274nm
Post by: tw2005 on November 16, 2016, 11:22:23
I managed to find these specs , as these are Elantra based I went with the 2007-11 spec of 274Nm which is exactly what you said but of course having to get the castelled nut lined up for the pin would mean there'll need to be a tolerance.
All fixed and beautifully smooth again . Took me roughly 1-1.5hr.
Removed the wheel, removed the caliper, rotor,cracked the nut, removed the strut bolts, brake line bracket, ABS sensor, tie-rod end, have enough play then to pop the shaft out. No fluid dropped maybe because I had just the right side elevated.
May be possible to refurb the inner, grease slowly escaping and looked quite black so getting hot I think. Boots were fine
ft lb first figure and Nm second
Hyundai
Accent ...................................2012-2013......... 202/274 —
2007-2011......... 188/260 —
2006..................... 175/237 —
2001-2005......... 175/237 147/200
1995-2000......... 170/230 147/200
Azera .....................................2012-2013......... 199/270 —
2007-2011......... 207/280 —
2006..................... 170/230 —
Elantra ..................................2007-2013......... 202/274 —
2001-2006......... 192/260 192/260
1996-2000......... 192/260 162/220
1995-92 .............192/260 148/200
Elantra GT.............................2013.....................199/270 —
Entourage ............................2007-2008......... 199/275 188/260
Equus.....................................2011-2013.........— 203/280
Excel ......................................1990-1994......... 170/230 129/175
1986-1989......... 170/230 HIA
Genesis..................................2009-2013.........— 188/255
Post by: sundiz on November 16, 2016, 16:26:47
are you recommending this to purchase? Is this what you have?
Well, that is only workshop manual I am aware of for the i30. I have that and the epc program. Best 20 £ i have invested for my car. Not the easiest to use due virtual desktop and some info is quite well hidden into the software. That is basicly the same program the dealer uses, but there is no support for connectiong the car to the software. Also the versions I have have also most of the other older hyundai manuals as well, Getz, santa fe etc eventhough it was advertised as i30 program. Those programs have saved me a ton of money. Literally. I've done all the services and repairs DIY.
Post by: tw2005 on November 17, 2016, 11:35:32
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kK7kuVDPIYI__hKgPjH0UcEk_kM7m9iQANHb-kCn1Gw6MjPZr0tWh0acRxNgqMXzbfKlMYngIA=w1366-h526-no)
Post by: tw2005 on November 18, 2016, 12:21:16
are you recommending this to purchase? Is this what you have?
Well, that is only workshop manual I am aware of for the i30. I have that and the epc program. Best 20 £ i have invested for my car. Not the easiest to use due virtual desktop and some info is quite well hidden into the software. That is basicly the same program the dealer uses, but there is no support for connectiong the car to the software. Also the versions I have have also most of the other older hyundai manuals as well, Getz, santa fe etc eventhough it was advertised as i30 program. Those programs have saved me a ton of money. Literally. I've done all the services and repairs DIY.
Well took 24hrs to download and I can't get any repair manuals to work. Just says no data. Any tips? Feel like I've wasted my money here>
Post by: nzenigma on November 18, 2016, 21:27:18
Possible that your download was corrupted due to drop outs etc..... as others have experienced.
Post by: tw2005 on November 18, 2016, 23:16:39
It has a lot of fans. As you say it is far more than just an i30 manual ; consequently its a huge download.
Possible that your download was corrupted due to drop outs etc..... as others have experienced.
eventualy worked ot out , it's the whole software suite with the manuals but a lot of data missing like the parts catalogue which would have been handy. Because it's a VM the manual tab was out of sight at the bottom. Looks pretty good. Just need to learn how to use it which I will now I have two of these cars.
Post by: nzenigma on November 19, 2016, 02:57:15
Post by: tw2005 on November 27, 2016, 00:34:39
After inspecting the shaft I removed a bit closer today I'm going to make suggestion as to the cause.
I'm not feeling any absurd amount of play in the joint, and the boot has not perish but grease is escaping.
What I've found is although the boot is intact, and the clamp also intact, the boot itself is no longer clamped or sealing firm against the joint housing.
It's as though it has shrunk from heat , age or both or the clamp was not tight enough in the first place.
I can easily wobble the case within the boot. Re clamping if noticed early enough may help but if you start seeing any grease weeping from your RH inner joint then the boot has failed to seal and eventually the grease will run out causing the joint to overheat and bind up which is what I expect happened with mine.
The longer the drive the worse it got.
Interesting with my LH shaft , same age miles etc the boot is still tight and sealed :disapp:
Post by: sundiz on December 03, 2016, 12:35:49
a lot of data missing like the parts catalogue which would have been handy
Parts can be found in the EPC program. But that costs also 10£...
Post by: tw2005 on December 03, 2016, 13:06:18
a lot of data missing like the parts catalogue which would have been handy
Parts can be found in the EPC program. But that costs also 10£...
Can that be embedded within the GDS? I use ILCATS and translator
Post by: sundiz on December 03, 2016, 14:53:31
Can that be embedded within the GDS? I use ILCATS and translator
I dont think so. The epc software is made like gds. You need to use it with virtual machine.
Post by: tw2005 on October 13, 2018, 05:41:11
Not sure if the joint is ok but has reached the point where the shaft vibrates at speed under high loads.
Play in the joint felt the same as the new shaft I pit in. May be worth a refurb for the next one to go.
Lucky I had this shaft for a rainy day :crazy1: Just wish it was not :faint:
(https://preview.ibb.co/iHVmw9/20181013-141910.jpg) (https://ibb.co/msp1UU)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mcE1UU/20181013-141859.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nAqapU)
who discovered aluminum (https://aluminumsulfate.net/aluminum)
Post by: nzenigma on October 13, 2018, 08:22:12
Look for play in CV, bent shaft, wheel balance, ..... missing wheel? :Pout:
Post by: tw2005 on October 13, 2018, 08:45:54
You mentioned PM that grease may cause the imbalance , doesn't quite stack up, to me anyway, but who am I :crazy1:If it's not due to the grease then it's wear in the joint due to the grease escaping. But it's the shaft 100% that starts going eccentric. New shaft, test drive, perfect again.
Look for play in CV, bent shaft, wheel balance, ..... missing wheel? :Pout:
I'm hoping it's grease because I'd love to salvage the shaft( wishfull thinking) but no analysis, no data, nothing learnt.
I will get it stripped down and see how it is by someone who's qualified. I have a nother set and I think I have the original one from teh wagon which was atrocious.
3 rd car and 2 makes I've experienced this phenomenon. The other was a Mitsubishi Galant. I posted that one in another car forum many years ago only to have some fool "dealership" mechanic call crap, never seen one do that.
anyway, I digress.
Oh, and I should also mention it's always the longest shaft too that's sensitive to this which makes sense.
Post by: nzenigma on October 14, 2018, 02:17:12
Post by: tw2005 on October 14, 2018, 04:08:41
no doubt you will let us know. Just that weight of grease V weight of uni joint does seem to be a factor. More likely its binding up due to no lube??? :head_butt:Quite likely. I'm a bit pissed off because i've now had to use my only good shaft when we could have extended the previous one.
I found an aftermarket GSP number for the inner,
GSP 624061
(https://cdn.motordoctor.de/thumb?m=1&id=10052650&lng=en)
But surprise surprise none available. bet they stopped production to sell just the shafts.
Replacement shaft was a GSP CVS.572 boot quality was comparable to the OEM. OEM is possibly slightly tougher.
Post by: nzenigma on October 14, 2018, 04:27:19
Post by: tw2005 on October 14, 2018, 04:31:15
495352L401 ( Aus and Europe regions)
Post by: nzenigma on October 14, 2018, 04:44:06
Post by: tw2005 on October 14, 2018, 04:55:02
:scared: You need a new hobby.Examples and what do you mean. It's raining what else can I do. Knit?
Post by: tw2005 on October 14, 2018, 04:55:53
2 more at Willawong? Pink Elephants? Indians?
Post by: nzenigma on October 14, 2018, 07:52:23
2 more at Willawong? Pink Elephants? Indians?
Taliban battalions.
Post by: The Gonz on October 14, 2018, 08:42:00
Taliban battalionsThat's OK, they're under surveillance.
Post by: tw2005 on October 14, 2018, 09:01:43
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRa_exhaA_IYNkRBnqq5MZkoyzTeYRW63KLg3twix7IKrZ26uPU)Taliban battalionsThat's OK, they're under surveillance.
You're under that hub cap Gonz doing a reccy?
Post by: tw2005 on October 14, 2018, 09:31:36
Now, back to the technical stuff
Report is in.
It's retired from active duty, non salvageable in my opinion anyway.
The internals are worn and case hardening gone. I've tried to capture a paper towel with chrome speckles or case hardening floating in amongst the little grease left which in effect is a quantity low enough to not be forced out.
Likely just getting this shaft out before it got really violent.
(https://preview.ibb.co/cL0Z19/20181014-174413.jpg) (https://ibb.co/knXQ8p)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kqngg9/received-154216918863883.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mb4SM9)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fk9u19/received-157563775193907.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cJYbEU)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kpEGEU/received-185080929057042.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dsZGEU)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eGzu19/received-265720210744309.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mLNsop)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gLDbEU/received-274364186526707.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hznQ8p)
(https://preview.ibb.co/h3o9ZU/received-309076393228501.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bW1k8p)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gcKzZU/received-352906958786450.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mHpNop)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ivR2op/received-355180201721932.jpg) (https://ibb.co/de4YuU)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nFXWg9/received-369005420307151.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mixxM9)
(https://preview.ibb.co/btWDuU/received-484057818740274.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iUm2op)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ipiF8p/received-549525885485857.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g8Qj19)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ffgeZU/received-709420686124244.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gCGDuU)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jNENop/received-1003338586537574.jpg) (https://ibb.co/guuNop)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mzThop/received-1492735840870646.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n1BP19)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iv7Wg9/received-2125246047495387.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ewweZU)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eO5HM9/received-2186814421536861.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gwgrg9)
Post by: Dazzler on October 14, 2018, 09:33:59
You seem to be always swapping or replacing something! :crazy1:
Post by: tw2005 on October 14, 2018, 09:39:16
Is there any of the original running gear left in any of your FD's Gerard? :eek:How dare you. There's no incestuous cross breeding going on here :faint:
You seem to be always swapping or replacing something! :crazy1:
Would you like an audit trail?
Post by: tw2005 on October 14, 2018, 10:05:47
time to take a data dump,
i30 FD CRDi Auto RHS driveshaft
length 945mm (with inner joint compressed)
Inner Joint OEM
OEM inner kit
495352L401 ( Aus and Europe regions)
Aftermarket according to a UK site :link: GSP 624061 Joint Kit, drive shaft - Reduced prices (https://www.motor-doctor.co.uk/products/10052650-joint-kit-drive-shaft)
GSP 624061
Data quoted:
Length [mm]: 148
Seal Diameter [mm]: 41
Int.teeth, diff.side, conn.to conn.shaft: 22
Outer teething differential side: 27
GSP Data can be found here:
http://www.gsp.cn/index.jsp?id0=z0hkxmf8dx&id1=z0hl7qpkwd (http://www.gsp.cn/index.jsp?id0=z0hkxmf8dx&id1=z0hl7qpkwd)
Chinese site but that joint 624061 is being referenced to the 2011 onwards Elantra and i30 with 1800 Motor, , manual, NU. Right side
(https://preview.ibb.co/cWThop/GSP-snip1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kzzYuU)
(https://preview.ibb.co/insKZU/models.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cOotuU)
From what I can deduce OEM for that is 495923X2A0
Inner joint is a tripod design
(https://image.ibb.co/kTZ58p/tripod.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
actual dimensions off the joint removed.
(https://image.ibb.co/cgWz19/inner-joint.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
L= 86mm
H = 62mm
overall length 148mm
C = 41mm (seal diameter)
A = 27 teeth spline to diff
B = 22 teeth spline , shaft to tripod
width of the seal portion shoulder 18mm
still looking but appears Korean market used different joints, nothing coming up on Koraps. Still researching hoping to find a reasonable part to refurb this .
Post by: Dazzler on October 14, 2018, 10:15:15
You obviously just enjoy fixing stuff! :goodjob2: :goodjob:
Post by: tw2005 on October 14, 2018, 10:32:35
It's no skin off my... nose. :PI'm not sure we have that much room or time, however here a quick rundown.
You obviously just enjoy fixing stuff! :goodjob2: :goodjob:
2008 SLX auto -hail damaged, 230000Km - not original - KYB shocks, tyres, RHS driveshaft, windscreen, new ball joints(OEM), new front arm bushes(aftermarket), 2 x internal chrome handles (OEM), front rotors(aftermarket), pads, shitty Silverline repco, rear pads, leather steering wheel 2nd hand exchanged, 2011 FD-01 stereo installed, rear deck replaced(missing), steering rack (41000k exchanged), new OEM front sway bushes.
super smooth, quiet and good economy. original drivetrain
2008 SX manual - 390000km- turbo swap, alloys fitted, leather wheel and audio controls added, new OEM front arms, complete rear subframe and arms exchanged, kyb shocks as purchased, original drivetrain, front swaybar swap out and new OEM bushes,
smooth and quiet, motor a bit rattly in the chain area, most economical in the fleet
2010 i30CW SLX auto 213000km- complete interior swapout , complete drivetrain swapout from 41000Km donor, rear shocks eventually went and new KYB
Drives like a low K car but seems to be thirsty ( +1l / 100 on the others)and a bit of diesel rattle cold, runs well though.
2012 i30CW Sx auto - TBA - work completed awaiting clearance to be re-registered. Initial impression suggests it could be in the league of my SLX hatch. Motor is very quiet on start up and cold compared to the other wagon. expecting better economy and has U2 D4FB.
Post by: Dazzler on October 14, 2018, 10:40:46
Assume you will eventually sell a couple or will you keep them in the family.
We are learning a lot from all your hands on work! :victory: :happydance:
Post by: tw2005 on October 14, 2018, 11:01:28
Thanks for that Gerard. There is a lot of hours work there!I need a sponsor. Maybe we could name the last one The Dazzler :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Assume you will eventually sell a couple or will you keep them in the family.
We are learning a lot from all your hands on work! :victory: :happydance:
Don't think i can fund 3 vehicles, problem is once I turn a spanner onone it's like a child to me.
There more out there I need to save.
what i'd really like, a GD CRDi Auto tourer. I do like the wagon styling :rolleyes:
Post by: Dazzler on October 14, 2018, 11:04:42
Thanks for that Gerard. There is a lot of hours work there!I need a sponsor. Maybe we could name the last one The Dazzler :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Assume you will eventually sell a couple or will you keep them in the family.
We are learning a lot from all your hands on work! :victory: :happydance:
Don't think i can fund 3 vehicles, problem is once I turn a spanner onone it's like a child to me.
There more out there I need to save.
what i'd really like, a GD CRDi Auto tourer. I do like the wagon styling :rolleyes:
Maybe you could sell two to buy one of those. I agree, Trish's little 2014 Tourer still looks sharp. If it was a CRDi I might have pinched it for our next road trip.
Post by: tw2005 on October 14, 2018, 11:49:09
:link: Inner Joint 22X41X27 For Hyundai Elantra 11 Sd (2011-2015) | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Inner-Joint-22X41X27-For-Hyundai-Elantra-11-Sd-2011-2015/182675325761?epid=28014842252&hash=item2a884c4341:g:TvcAAOSwaGFZb03l:rk:2:pf:0)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/TvcAAOSwaGFZb03l/s-l1600.jpg)
Post by: tw2005 on October 15, 2018, 08:08:53
.
Extremely disappointed.
Post by: nzenigma on October 15, 2018, 08:19:53
Contacted GSP AADI here in Brisbane to find they do not import the inner joint, GSP 624061
.
Extremely disappointed.
Oh dear, to what distant point in the universe is this going to take us?
:YouNeedHelp:
Post by: tw2005 on October 15, 2018, 08:27:00
I don't know. I hate quitting. really annoys me when a manufacturuer makes the part but makes it unavailable. I think I'll pull my other shafts apart for shits and giggles and see what they look like.Contacted GSP AADI here in Brisbane to find they do not import the inner joint, GSP 624061
.
Extremely disappointed.
Oh dear, to what distant point in the universe is this going to take us?
:YouNeedHelp:
take that :P
Post by: nzenigma on October 15, 2018, 09:11:07
I don't know. I hate quitting. really annoys me when a manufacturuer makes the part but makes it unavailable. I think I'll pull my other shafts apart for shits and giggles and see what they look like.Contacted GSP AADI here in Brisbane to find they do not import the inner joint, GSP 624061
.
Extremely disappointed.
Oh dear, to what distant point in the universe is this going to take us?
:YouNeedHelp:
take that :P
gee sounds....sort of neat, how bout you invite us all over for a Barbie.... and we can watch...and comment... and go home. :undecided:
Post by: Dazzler on October 15, 2018, 09:16:58
Contacted GSP AADI here in Brisbane to find they do not import the inner joint, GSP 624061
.
Extremely disappointed.
Can't you try and source one from a low mileage wreck? :undecided:
Post by: tw2005 on October 15, 2018, 09:44:06
Don't go bringing common sense into this Dazz. I like fixing things(economically). I should be able to replace the joint but the world is stopping me :rolleyes:Contacted GSP AADI here in Brisbane to find they do not import the inner joint, GSP 624061
.
Extremely disappointed.
Can't you try and source one from a low mileage wreck? :undecided:
Post by: tw2005 on October 15, 2018, 09:45:11
Don't be nasty, just cos the rain won't let you play niceI don't know. I hate quitting. really annoys me when a manufacturuer makes the part but makes it unavailable. I think I'll pull my other shafts apart for shits and giggles and see what they look like.Contacted GSP AADI here in Brisbane to find they do not import the inner joint, GSP 624061
.
Extremely disappointed.
Oh dear, to what distant point in the universe is this going to take us?
:YouNeedHelp:
take that :P
gee sounds....sort of neat, how bout you invite us all over for a Barbie.... and we can watch...and comment... and go home. :undecided:
Post by: mickd on October 17, 2018, 04:11:56
Grease won't last forever, is cleaning & regreasing in the service list ?.
That nice Honda Red grease should work well ,( guess ) :undecided:
Post by: tw2005 on October 17, 2018, 08:50:53
Nice blueing effect there, been a bit hot in there.Can't comment on the bluing really,could be part of the heat treatment process but the wear spots are clear.
Grease won't last forever, is cleaning & regreasing in the service list ?.
That nice Honda Red grease should work well ,( guess ) :undecided:
Sealed for life normally. Maybe it wore then got hot and that forced the grease out but from what i see the boot is not a tight fit.
As for the grease I think it comes from the bowels of the earth. Wicked stuff