i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: BC on January 09, 2013, 03:33:38
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Looks like my turbo is playing up. (CrDi 45k). The turbo has started whistling loudly so maybe a bearing?
It's booked in to be checked next week so I'll be driving it gently until then . . .
Will give you an update when I find out what the problem is.
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Could be a bearing, more likely a turbo mounting flange gasket or exhaust manifold gasket. These gaskets are pressed steel and when they blow out or start to leak they make a whistling or screeching sound, like blowing on the edge of a piece of paper. They also will only make the noise when the turbo is on boost as well.
Could also be a boost leak from a loose hose clamp or pin hole in a hose.
If it is a shaft bearing on its way out, you've got a bit on, because every time you hear that whistle it will be the turbo impeller touch the housing wich will be sending alloy shavings through your engine :( doubt it's a shaft bearing though because normally when they let go it's in a big way :sweating:
Good luck with it
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I hope it's minor.
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Could be a bearing, more likely a turbo mounting flange gasket or exhaust manifold gasket. These gaskets are pressed steel and when they blow out or start to leak they make a whistling or screeching sound, like blowing on the edge of a piece of paper. They also will only make the noise when the turbo is on boost as well.
Could also be a boost leak from a loose hose clamp or pin hole in a hose.
If it is a shaft bearing on its way out, you've got a bit on, because every time you hear that whistle it will be the turbo impeller touch the housing wich will be sending alloy shavings through your engine :( doubt it's a shaft bearing though because normally when they let go it's in a big way :sweating:
Good luck with it
Gee, thanks Kom :faint:
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From around the 50k mile mark I can hear my turbo whining. It's a neat kinda sound which I can only hear with a window open.
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Yes, I could hear it at times on April. Never really worried about it.
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Nothing wrong with sounding like a Kenworth, eh :lol:
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Nice sound when you give it a bit of a rev. :D
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the pipe from the airbox could have a split in it,or its fallen off. :idea:
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The Hyundai dealership had it for the day and have had authorization to replace the turbo under warranty. They aren't 100% sure what the problem is but it looks like a bearing.
Incidentally, the whistle sounds like the normal quiet whistling noise they make but a hell of a lot louder. (sounds like the police are following)
When they get the parts in I'll get a ring . . .
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BC, can you tell us a bit about the sort of life the turbo has had with your driving?
Like:
- Do you push the car along?
- Do you cool down the turbo when you stop with an extended idle?
- What engine oil have you used and how often was it changed?
I'd be interested to know.
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BC, can you tell us a bit about the sort of life the turbo has had with your driving?
Like:
- Do you push the car along?
- Do you cool down the turbo when you stop with an extended idle?
- What engine oil have you used and how often was it changed?
I'd be interested to know.
I don't drive the car hard - usually changing in the 2000 -> 3000 range. Most of my driving is stop/start with the occasional trip.
I don't cool down the turbo, although I may do it if I was giving it a hiding.
All the servicing has been at the dealer, with oil changes between the major services.
I think the oil is the Hyundai labelled one.
I'm going to try and get a precise reason for the failure after the turbo is off and they've had a look at it. Will let you know when I find out more info.
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Ok, at last I have the car back. After a bit over 5 weeks of waiting & promises.
They replaced the turbo and think it's a bearing on the way out.
Initially here was a wait of about 10 days for the part.
This was followed by a wait for an authority to carry out the repair - about another 2 weeks. Incidentally, this type of authority is pretty standard for expensive warranty.
Then there was a request for the service history - again pretty standard stuff but more waiting to hear back from Hy Au.
All this took a total of 4 weeks. Once approved, the dealer couldn't fit in the repair for a week.
To top things off, the job was expected to take 1/2 a day but turned out to be a lot more involved than anticipated and ended up taking about 1 1/2 days. It was the first I30 turbo they'd replaced. . . .
The parts value was approx. $2500 & probably another $1000 for labour.
My gut feeling is that most of the delays were due to Hy Au being slack - someone on holidays?
Considering it was well within warranty, been dealer serviced & was effectively off the road, the delay getting this resolved was far from acceptable. After being very patient, I was just about to ring Hy Au and blow my top when the final ok's came through. I'll probably still contact them to see what they have to say.
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Yes, you have every right to be annoyed.. Sounds like a lot of that could have been done at the same time.
The Authorisations should have been attended to while the parts were on their way (for example) :wacko:
I would be "tactfully" venting my anger on Hyundai H/O (Hopefully some free servicing may be forthcoming to compensate you for all the inconvenience) :fum:
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A little disappointing re the time taken to actually get started but if it's fixed you will forget about that soon enough. Turbo bearing? I'd be thinking about the oil used of course and whether I'd perhaps flogged it and not given thought to a cool down more than once.
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What's a good oil to use?
Only joking! :lol:
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What's a good oil to use?
I use Olive oil for almost everything but Bran oil for really hot cooking as it has a very high smoke point.
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What's a good oil to use?
I use Olive oil for almost everything but Bran oil for really hot cooking as it has a very high smoke point.
Is the olive oil you use the really ugly version (extra virgin)?
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I think I may have exactly the same problem.
I only just noticed the noise properly today. It's more noticeable when the window is down, but you can slighty hear it in the cabin with the windows up as well.
It's almost a constant whistle and as I accelerate it gets louder. It does sound like a police siren.
I going to get it booked in for an inspection as soon as I can.
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The turbo will make a slight whistle anyway in any car.. it shouldn't be screaming though
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It sounds like there is a faint siren outside. I dont want to sound paranoid, but ive never noticed it before and have driven it heaps with the windows down.
i bought the car about a month ago with 55000km and now has 59,000km so i guess this is what happens when you dont know if the car has been warmed and cooled down.
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On my last i30 (FD) I always cooled down after driving but that also had a faint turbo whistle.
There was nothing wrong with it and I actually quite liked the sound to be honest. :D
I think it is normal, providing it isn't excessive.
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On my last i30 (FD) I always cooled down after driving but that also had a faint turbo whistle.
There was nothing wrong with it and I actually quite liked the sound to be honest. :D
I think it is normal, providing it isn't excessive.
:whsaid:
My turbo also whistle a lot.
When accelerating I can hear the whistle, even with the windows closed, it does sound like a police siren, but it has done that since I bought the car with 126.000 km on the clock, have now done 178.000. The whistle haven't changed at all, so I'm not worried.
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The whistle I had was very audible with the windows up - you won't have any doubts when it happens.
It literally could be mistaken for a siren close by. Also, it started quite suddenly - it didn't gradually get louder.
Yours sounds more like normal turbo noise.
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what dealership carried out the repairs/warranty BC? :undecided:
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The noise mine has you can hear clearly when its idling and you just light tap the accelerator (out of gear) and it makes a sound similar to a vacuum cleaner... ? Not the same?
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Yours sounds more like normal turbo noise.
Yep.
That was also what I tried to say.. :mrgreen:
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The noise mine has you can hear clearly when its idling and you just light tap the accelerator (out of gear) and it makes a sound similar to a vacuum cleaner... ? Not the same?
i can't hear mine when idling.
The vacuum cleaner I will have to check out tomorrow.. :D
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Gee, that sucks.
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what dealership carried out the repairs/warranty BC? :undecided:
Chadstone Hyundai have done all the servicing & are generally pretty good.
Also Elantraelite, my whistle was inaudible when idling and only became obvious when the turbo
started to work a bit with a some load & few revs.
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what dealership carried out the repairs/warranty BC? :undecided:
Chadstone Hyundai have done all the servicing & are generally pretty good.
Also Elantraelite, my whistle was inaudible when idling and only became obvious when the turbo
started to work a bit with a some load & few revs.
What your describing sounds exactly how mine is acting. I will give chadstone Hyundai a call because I have been to two dealers and dont have any idea what it is.
My step dad works for holden in testing and said it doesnt sound right for a turbo charger.
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This appears to be common apparently on earlier 1.6 L CrD fitted to i30 and Kia Ceeds. High pitch police siren like whine.
Kia forum is full of complaints about it. I've come across that myself in my brother inlaw car (Kia Ceed). He's been driving like that for a year now, noisy but still going. I'm monitoring mine (wife's) every time I jump in it seems to be getting louder but now as bad described.
Cheers
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Has anybody yet been told the cause of the whistle (apart from "it's the turbo") and the reason for any replacement of the turbo? This is no doubt a high cost replacement item and a lot of cars (including mine) are coming out of warranty.
I don't have any turbo whistle but it seems like a common symptom and a possible future problem. I'm sure many would like to avoid it if possible.
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Where's Kom, he'd know this answer. All I recall, is that turbo whistle, is the indication of eventual turbo failure. Some people like a little turbo whine, but if it's not meant to, then it shouldn't.
I do like the sound of a nice Kenworth cruising on the freeway. :razz:
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Has anybody yet been told the cause of the whistle (apart from "it's the turbo") and the reason for any replacement of the turbo? This is no doubt a high cost replacement item and a lot of cars (including mine) are coming out of warranty.
I was told it was a bearing, which sounds reasonable to me. I don't think there's much else in a turbo that could make that type of noise. Incidentally, the repair would have cost about $3500 if out of warranty.
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if you think your turbo is noisy, listen to this video.
if it is louder than this, you have problems...
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a372/sykomonkeeeee/MOV_0749_zps81171ccf.mp4 (http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a372/sykomonkeeeee/MOV_0749_zps81171ccf.mp4)
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When I looked at my bro-in-law Kia what I found was that noise went away when I restricted VNT control not too allow vanes to reach max position (I clamped vacuum hose). I also remember when I was searching about it on Interwebz a post on Kia UK forum where someone with Kia association let it slip that case for noise is from vanes opening past their max position and touching the housing.
That would be possible but there is a stop screw to limit the travel. Other explanation could be that as the bearing wears out it allows the turbine shaft to move hence vanes touch. The poster also insisted that this issue is with earlier generation of those VNT turbos that Kia was aware of the problem and replacing them with superseeded unit when under warranty.
Unfortunately I can't find that link anymore.
Cheers
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if you think your turbo is noisy, listen to this video.
if it is louder than this, you have problems...
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a372/sykomonkeeeee/MOV_0749_zps81171ccf.mp4 (http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a372/sykomonkeeeee/MOV_0749_zps81171ccf.mp4)
Certainly the same noise but I think mine was louder. The reason I hesitate is that mine didn't really start to get noisy until there was some load (ie. causing manifold vacuum and the turbo to work?) - the video only gives short glimpses where this is apparent.
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if you think your turbo is noisy, listen to this video.
if it is louder than this, you have problems...
That's exactly what I hear when Fergie's singing.
Thanks for the video Ian :goodjob:
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no probs Shambo!!
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My turbo sounds like that. Has done for the 55000 km I've had the car, car now done 181000 km.
I'm not worried... :cool:
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Good afternoon everybody. I have little bit same whistling noise from turbo and I hear it windows up. The thing is that when I remove small air hose from turbo (please see picture I have added), whistling stops. + Whistling is not so loud when air conditioner is off, but when it is on, whistling is always on, even if car is not moving. With A/C it REALLY whistles loud. Now I have doubt what part could have been damaged. Any advice?
xzxz
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One thing that is known, is that the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve) is disconnected when the A/C is on. Sometimes, the EGR valve can become dirty and clogged with soot, so perhaps this is a cause of your whistle. Apparently, turbo whistle is a sign of bad turbo health, so I'd get that checked ASAP.
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And apparently boost is increased when the AC is on.... :undecided:
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a whistleing turbo is not always a sign of a bad turbo, white smoke from the exhaust is, grinding noise is, no boost is, but feint whistling is not, if i made you spin at 150,000 RPM and push 18 psi i can bet $100 you would make a whistling noise. you will KNOW when something is wrong with it.
rodger that crustynuts, i can confirm boost goes up when AC is put on, it actually goes up 4 psi.
your disconnecting the variable vane controler... thats why it stops, it cant make any boost. very similar to the function of a waste gate, but backwards in operation, (disconect waste gate = no boost limit, disconnect variable vane control = no boost)
listen to the video, if its louer than that, then play with things. if not leave it alone as there is nothing wrong with it.
so just to recap, leave the hose alone, listen to the video a few posts up with some good quality headphones.
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One thing that is known, is that the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve) is disconnected when the A/C is on. Sometimes, the EGR valve can become dirty and clogged with soot, so perhaps this is a cause of your whistle. Apparently, turbo whistle is a sign of bad turbo health, so I'd get that checked ASAP.
How hard is in this model (2008 i30 diesel) to clean the EGR? Does forte or other cleaners help? I called garage (don't know how you call mechanics in AU) and they suggested me to perfom forte cleaning, but I don't know whether it will clean EGR. An on the top of the all, I got really lazy car this morning (turbo is working). I wonder, if somebody know is it EGR or MAF (or something else??) is causing this: When I bought this car, it was quite sensitive with gas pedal and I didn't need to press it too much, I got the torque. Now I pretty much has to press gas pedal at the bottom to get car moving. Please, does anybody knows what is going on?
By the way, I think car is running on lower rpm than it used to be. Consumes slightly less diesel.
xzxz
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Hi
It could be a defect Air mass sensor. If defect, the sensor will not allow enough air to the engine, and too little air also means too little ( or no at all ) turbo pressure.
You will need a computer or a Scantool of some kind to be able too measure the airflow, and you also need to know what the flow should be.
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Hi
It could be a defect Air mass sensor. If defect, the sensor will not allow enough air to the engine, and too little air also means too little ( or no at all ) turbo pressure.
You will need a computer or a Scantool of some kind to be able too measure the airflow, and you also need to know what the flow should be.
Anybody knows what the air flow should be in 66W 1.6 CRDi i30? :)
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Having checked the workshop manual, I would suggest that you take the car to a Hy dealer to have it checked.
The MAFS (Mass Air Flow Sensor) is complex and dependent on inlet air temperature to determine it's output.
The output of the sensor is a variable frequency ranging from 1.96 to 9.83 kHz @ 20 Deg c. (High Flow) or
2.0 to 8.12 kHz @ -15 Deg C (Low Flow)
There is no way you can check this component without the correct equipment, sorry.
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Having checked the workshop manual, I would suggest that you take the car to a Hy dealer to have it checked.
The MAFS (Mass Air Flow Sensor) is complex and dependent on inlet air temperature to determine it's output.
The output of the sensor is a variable frequency ranging from 1.96 to 9.83 kHz @ 20 Deg c. (High Flow) or
2.0 to 8.12 kHz @ -15 Deg C (Low Flow)
There is no way you can check this component without the correct equipment, sorry.
The thing that bothers me the most is that dealer may not have these equipments.
I had same problem with BMW previously and for 4 years nobody found solution for that. They changed a lot of things, but still I didn't get it run as it was suppose to. That is why I am wondering about EGR as well, as I suspect that this non-torqueness might be because of EGR (I didn't change it in BMW :) ). You may correct me. I did change MAF in BMW without the output I was looking for. I get no fault codes and it is very frustrating. I had to go till Australia to complain about :D (this is Australian forum, right, no?)
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Joint British/Australian partnership I believe. :)
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if you think your turbo is noisy, listen to this video.
if it is louder than this, you have problems...
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a372/sykomonkeeeee/MOV_0749_zps81171ccf.mp4 (http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a372/sykomonkeeeee/MOV_0749_zps81171ccf.mp4)
Holy bloody cow,if either Bruce or Cyril where as noisy as this I would have them straight into the shop to have them fixed,even with the door open,that sounded terrible
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What? you're off your chops! its sounded like that since new, like 80km new...
ill give you a tip, the 'shop' can't fix a problem that is not there.
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I will have to make recordings of my two,but from what I am hearing,mine sound nothing like that,what did you use to do the recording,phone, dig camcorder,dig camera with vid,I'd like to replicate it similar to hear the difference,but to my ears that just sounds incredibly noisy
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its in a shed, right next to a couch and another car, its probably amplifying the sound. yours will sound the same.
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its in a shed, right next to a couch and another car, its probably amplifying the sound. yours will sound the same.
in an enclosed space will do that,will do mine in the shed tomorrow,probably make em sound like trucks
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i wish mine spooled like the skyling! that thing sounds like a truck! its quite funny, the turbine isnt even moving on idle, or until you get to 1400rpm then its loud, and spools fast!
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Haven't viewed the vids I did this morning of Bruce and Cyril,but when I did Bruce I though Oh! yeah this is very quite,but then I did Cyril holy cow,you want to hear noise,He is bleedin Noisy
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;)
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The turbo whining noise is due to a problem in the variable vane part of the turbo, which is non-serviceable. In other words there is no way you or the service department can fix this, other than getting a complete new turbo, or getting a good second-hand one. I had this occur in mine and the noise got louder and louder as the months went by. And yes it started to sound like the cops or ambulance were on my tail. I guess the problem began to surface a month or two after I ran the car too hard up a steep and windy road on a hot day and towing a trailer full of camping gear. It then started to overheat badly before pulling over and allowing it to idle and cool down to normal operating temps. I suspected that over working the little turbo may have caused the variable vanes to warp slightly due to the heat. This was further confirmed when I had my mechanic remove the turbo and establish the main shaft bearings were still in perfect shape and well within tolerance. Unfortunately I couldn't claim a new replacement turbo under warranty because my servicing was not regular according to the service book. So I decided to source a replacement second-hand turbo from the wreckers with low kms for about $1200 (i think) plus r&r. The car has now done over 100K on the second turbo and all is still good with.
Moral of the story? If you're starting to hear the whining sound (whether idling or under acceleration) it will be the variable vane component beginning to fail and is a non-serviceable l part. And if you're servicing record is impeccable then you should be able to get a new turbo under warranty. At the time when the turbo whining was going on I was warned that if I leave it too long the variable vanes might break completely, thereby sending shrapnel into your engine, and well...I'm sure you know the rest. Mind you the turbo was whining for several months before I decided to change it.
Anyway that's my 2 bobs worth.
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I finally got the result I wanted with my turbo whisle issue. After a long battle with the dealership and hyundai I got a positive result.
At first the dealership told me the whistle was due to my K&N panel filter. So I told them fine I'll pay for an original one... turbo whistle still there... then they told me the clip on the air box was the issue.... I said fine replace it I'll pay for it.... turbo whistle noise still there.
After all that I got the verdict that there was failing bearings in the turbo. He said they would order a new turbo under warranty.
I then received a phone call the other day saying the turbo had arrived however Hyundai has now recalled the part because they are acknowledging that the turbo has a common problem with the bearings. He told me they have now dispatched the new turbos that are supposed to fix the issue.
I should have this all sorted by next fortnight when I get the car to the dealership.
I'll keep you posted.
I have been dealing with Melbourne City Hyundai
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Well done, mate. Persistence has paid off. :victory:
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:goodjob:
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Well at least they did not tell you to go and whistle....for it.....
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the 'variable vanes' are just 'flaps' that move with the actuator, no boost on the actuator makes them face IN to the turbine, and boost make them fan away from the turbine.
yours sounded like it needed a new cartridge or overhaul. 100% dooable, infact people on the skyline club do them all by them selves, granted they are not rebuilding VNT turbos, but i cant imagine its that much harder!
here is how a VNT turbo works, imagine the exhaust comes in from the outside, then it goes through the 'vanes' across the turbine and out the middle into the dump pipe.
(http://www.mechanicalengineeringblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/01variableturbinegeometryturbochargervtgsequence.gif)
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Thanks for that, but when you have Garret Turbos in Melbourne have a look at it and say they can't fix it you don't argue. That reminds me I should dig up a journal from them that I saw last year. On it they stated the vnt is a non-serviceable part. Maybe this is non dooable on i30 type turbos. Dunknow. But I've still got the original turbo just in case but it would be good if what you're saying is applicable for the i30 turbos.
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Couldn't find their press release re vnt serviceability, but I found the same answer in their Faq section. Cut and pasted:
VNT Turbochargers
Are they repairable?
Garrett by Honeywell VNT(Variable Nozzle Turbine) turbochargers are highly complex units engineered and calibrated to meet the exacting performance parameters of automotive manufacturers. The only possible way to meet these exacting standards, ensuring optimum performance of a VNT turbocharger is at the point of manufacture.Disassembly of a VNT turbocharger means that the minimum vane open setting will have to be reset before the calibration process can be completed, only achievable using a highly accurate turbine flow bench to measure and compensate for any variation in gas flow through the vanes of the turbocharger. Trying to repair a VNT turbocharger is like trying to repair a microchip with a soldering iron - it's practically impossible.Attempt to repair or use substitute parts could result in the following:Conflict with the engine management systemLow flow/pressure, causing excessively high temperatures, damaging both the turbocharger and the engineHigh flow/pressure, leading to the over-speeding of the turbocharger, wheel bursting and damage to turbocharger and engineOver rich diesel fuel/air mix, causing excessively high temperatures, damaging both the turbo and the engineExcessive boost pressure, causing physical engine damageGarrett does not sell spare parts for VNT turbos for these reasons; it's just too big a risk.
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Being a
septic skeptic I could say they missed the bit out about "plus we don't make any money if you fix the damaged one rather than replace it" but I am only playing the devil's advocate... :twisted:
While that is the case in a lot of instances, I doubt it is in this case... :cool:
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:MeToo:
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We have made lots of improvements since you were last on... I see you are enjoying the new Smileys :victory:
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Yeah man. A bit easier now. I see you've also added a few more topics too, and your activity on this site has not diminished. :drinks:
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We have our ups and downs, but mostly ups .. Have now met over 30 members face to face in Every State and Territory of Australia in the last 5 years and liked every one of them! :goodjob2: :goodjob:
Sorry for the :offtopic: folks... :-[
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Ahh I never knew that!
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Being a septic skeptic I could say they missed the bit out about "plus we don't make any money if you fix the damaged one rather than replace it" but I am only playing the devil's advocate... :twisted:
While that is the case in a lot of instances, I doubt it is in this case... :cool:
Dazz from past experience with turbines. to rebuild is not cheap at all, as the new turbine needs to be dynamically balanced as well as other things. thats a really tricky time consuming job. i have watched it being done.
i have read part of this post, & saw the mention of part recall? so is my i30 in need of another recall part?
also being profoundly deaf i won't hear the whistling turbo ( scary )
well the 60k service will be due in two thousand k, i'll ask.
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i have read part of this post, & saw the mention of part recall? so is my i30 in need of another recall part?
also being profoundly deaf i won't hear the whistling turbo ( scary )
No official recall that I know about John.. Plenty of higher mileage i30 CRDi on the road without Turbo issues...
Yes, a bit tricky being deaf in that situation! :undecided:
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I guess the problem began to surface a month or two after I ran the car too hard up a steep and windy road on a hot day and towing a trailer full of camping gear. It then started to overheat badly before pulling over and allowing it to idle and cool down to normal operating temps.
It's interesting to note that it was overheating - was this apparent via the temp gauge?
I sometimes wonder if the gauge is of much value - by the time it rises it's too late. (particularly if you have a sudden loss of water)
Some time ago I posted and asked if anyone had ever seen their gauge anywhere above normal and didn't get anyone with an example.
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Yeah temp gauge. The needle headed to almost the critical red range. Haven't had any temp probs since, and was about 2 years ago now, and I drive my car like it's a company car (then again it is my company car). On the day, which was a very hot day, I caned it up the mountain whilst towing the trailer. I would have been very surprised if the needle still didn't move after that, but I half wanted to prove a point the gauge was doing it's job. Like I said before the needle hasn't moved since and I do trust the gauge now.
sorry I didn't read your earlier post. Haven't been on for a while.
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I guess the problem began to surface a month or two after I ran the car too hard up a steep and windy road on a hot day and towing a trailer full of camping gear. It then started to overheat badly before pulling over and allowing it to idle and cool down to normal operating temps.
It's interesting to note that it was overheating - was this apparent via the temp gauge?
I sometimes wonder if the gauge is of much value - by the time it rises it's too late. (particularly if you have a sudden loss of water)
Some time ago I posted and asked if anyone had ever seen their gauge anywhere above normal and didn't get anyone with an example.
Hi BC
Must have missed that post also.
On 2 occasion I've had the temp gauge rise to the other side of the middle mark. Both times was when towing the caravan up the motorway in the Alps on very warm days, ca 30 ºC towing 1400 kg.
Both times the temp rised to the point where the engine lost power, controlled by the ecu, to protect the engine I guess.
Once the engine have cooled of, the power is back. :D
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On 2 occasion I've had the temp gauge rise to the other side of the middle mark. Both times was when towing the caravan up the motorway in the Alps on very warm days, ca 30 ºC towing 1400 kg.
Both times the temp rised to the point where the engine lost power, controlled by the ecu, to protect the engine I guess.
Once the engine have cooled of, the power is back. :D
You are very relaxed about the loss of power - I would have been more worried. Maybe I'm getting too old!
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(particularly if you have a sudden loss of water)
Your temp gauge would rapidly drop with a loss of coolant, the temp sensor cant get a reading in air/steam.
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On 2 occasion I've had the temp gauge rise to the other side of the middle mark. Both times was when towing the caravan up the motorway in the Alps on very warm days, ca 30 ºC towing 1400 kg.
Both times the temp rised to the point where the engine lost power, controlled by the ecu, to protect the engine I guess.
Once the engine have cooled of, the power is back. :D
You are very relaxed about the loss of power - I would have been more worried. Maybe I'm getting too old!
You haven't typed your age in your profile, so I don't know if you're old.. :snigger: :snigger:
Actually, I find it a very nice feature, that the ECU reacts on the hot engine with cutting the power. Other cars just get hot and suddenly the water boils :disapp:
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Actually, I find it a very nice feature, that the ECU reacts on the hot engine with cutting the power. Other cars just get hot and suddenly the water boils :
So the ECU definitely responds to overheating? Pretty nifty if it does.
Assuming that's the case, I wonder if the engine stops completely (or goes into limp home mode) before getting to the point of seizing?
I suppose when you think about it, the enormous amount of data available via the ECU gives the designers the opportunity to do lots of clever stuff.
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Well the i30 finally went in for the replacement turbo. The car was at the dealer for 3 day because they were struggling to get the turbo off as the bolts had seized.
Turbo whistle has now gone away and is running as normal. no noticable improvement other than the noise is finally gone!
I have attached a copy of the work that was carried out for anyone who is curious....
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Can't argue with that result. :goodjob2: :goodjob:
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:whsaid: Would have been interesting to know what they costed it at! Not a common warranty claim fortunately. :sweating:
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:whsaid: Would have been interesting to know what they costed it at! Not a common warranty claim fortunately. :sweating:
When my turbo was replaced under warranty for a noisy bearing, the dealership estimated $3500.
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Thanks, Lucky you were still in warranty then! :eek:
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I'm pretty sure the turbo alone would be around the 1k mark, then gaskets and the number of hours they spent trying to get the thing off... I'm sure it would have been pushing the 2.5k mark
I'm amazed it took 3 dealerships to get a result. It was like pulling teeth to get it done. Hopefully the turbo holds up since I always wait a few seconds before turning off the car everytime without fail.
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The turbo whining noise is due to a problem in the variable vane part of the turbo, which is non-serviceable. In other words there is no way you or the service department can fix this, other than getting a complete new turbo, or getting a good second-hand one. I had this occur in mine and the noise got louder and louder as the months went by. And yes it started to sound like the cops or ambulance were on my tail. I guess the problem began to surface a month or two after I ran the car too hard up a steep and windy road on a hot day and towing a trailer full of camping gear. It then started to overheat badly before pulling over and allowing it to idle and cool down to normal operating temps. I suspected that over working the little turbo may have caused the variable vanes to warp slightly due to the heat. This was further confirmed when I had my mechanic remove the turbo and establish the main shaft bearings were still in perfect shape and well within tolerance. Unfortunately I couldn't claim a new replacement turbo under warranty because my servicing was not regular according to the service book. So I decided to source a replacement second-hand turbo from the wreckers with low kms for about $1200 (i think) plus r&r. The car has now done over 100K on the second turbo and all is still good with.
Moral of the story? If you're starting to hear the whining sound (whether idling or under acceleration) it will be the variable vane component beginning to fail and is a non-serviceable l part. And if you're servicing record is impeccable then you should be able to get a new turbo under warranty. At the time when the turbo whining was going on I was warned that if I leave it too long the variable vanes might break completely, thereby sending shrapnel into your engine, and well...I'm sure you know the rest. Mind you the turbo was whining for several months before I decided to change it.
Anyway that's my 2 bobs worth.
If the variable vanes break they will go down the exhaust pipe, not into the engine.