Hi there Greyhound, cranking, no start assumed it was the fuel pump because i could not hear the fuel pump priming checked fuses and relay all good. Used some easy start spray no joy, I've managed to start the car up by unlocking and locking the door , it's immobiliser related because I don't have the fob anymore, on the dash the immobilizer icon was solid amber and not flashing the car starting on first key turn over, is this temporary fix or do I get replacement fob from dealership what option do I have?
I have an odd one, my head unit display is white. I don't mean dull, or baked from being in the sun, I mean the entire screen goes solid white and lit up, as if every pixel is being told to produce the colour white when my head unit is on. I can't seem to think of any way to resolve this, outside of buying a used head unit from a wrecker, which is frustrating as the unit works in every other way. I can play my music through Android Auto, listen to the radio, touch the screen and interact with it (without any idea what I'm pressing when it's all white). Outside of the white, bright screen running, it is still running smoothly.
Aye30 in his post above has a good suggestion. In the day, I used automotive/mechanics stethoscopes to isolate the location of noises, see my post at Cold start rattle 2012 GD Premium 1.8 auto.
If you haven't got an automotive stethoscope, I recommend getting one (a good brand name) as they are reasonably cheap for what they can do. I'd run the probe of the stethoscope over the more likely culprits e.g. along the "rocker cover" (forgot its modern name ) under the large plastic cover atop of the engine and along the timing chain cover and tensioner. Don't test too many places the first time as it just makes it harder to remember their noises.
With a stethoscope I would: (1) Test with the engine cold, at idle and at slightly increased revs. (2) Test with the engine warmed up (not hot!!), at idle and at slightly increased revs. (3) Test with the engine at operating temperature, at idle and at slightly increased revs.
Hopefully, you should be able to detect the location where the noise starts loud and then quietens down as the engine heats up. Just a thought.
Got a 2023 PD Hatch. Every now and then the LHR seat belt warning goes off while driving, and there is no one in the seat. Has anyone else had this issue?
Hmmmm seems a very widespread issue across a bunch of Hyundai & Kia models. I wonder why there hasn't been a recall on it? As ABS modules should not be shitting themselves in that manner - I cannot even recall the last time ours was activated.
Checked the fuses, all appear ok from basic inspection (removed and looked over). ABS module is right at the back right hand corner on mine, near impossible to inspect & I'm not sure I like the idea of whacking it.
Have yet another week of rain ahead of us and so have booked into the local Hyundai dealership as just can't run the risk of keeping on the daily transit with no ABS, ESC, AEB etc.....supplied them with Gazza's info so we will see.
Got to my mechanic who scanned the car with his 'proper' OBD scanner equipment. This has detected an ABS fault (C240201 as per attached picture). He attempted to clear the error but it immediately came back. He suggested that it could be that the ABS motor could be stuck and giving the motor housing a hard tap might free it up.
Other suggestions from my own investigations yesterday say it could be the following: "The code means there is a problem with the circuit for the ABS pump motor. Before you start swapping parts have you checked the ABS fuses? There will be two, one for the pump and one for the solenoid block. They are usually the large square type fuses located on the engine bay fusebox. You should also check the main power supplies and grounds at the ABS module connector. There are usually 4 terminals on module connector that are larger than all the others. Two of them are the power supplies that come from the two ABS fuses, and the other two are the pump and solenoid block earths. If one of the power supplies or earths is bad that could cause the trouble code." I checked my fuses but they were fine. Have not had a chance to test the power supplies and grounds as yet.
It also seems that this is a fairly common issue on a number of Hyundai vehicles such as the Tucson and now the Kona EV (recall has been done on this vehicle).
I'm relieved it is (probably) not the radar but then again, the ABS motor is just as expensive. I see the unit can be rebuilt but not sure about the option where I live.
I had this exact condition on my 2012, 18.L GD series. I never did anything about. I kept the car until 2023 when I sold it with 135,000kms. Nothing ever went wrong with the engine in all those years and just kept to the normal annual servicing/15,000km intervals - zero oil consumption.
Hi, one thing I can think of is the timing chain and tensioner. If this model is chain timing, the tensioner is oil assisted. I had an i20 where the tensioner had a weak spring, it was only after the oil pressure built up pressure that the timing chain stopped rattling. When I swapped out the tensioner ( and chain, as there was a stronger revision) the old tensioner could be easily compressed ( without the oil pressure). Can you see the timing chain from the oil filler? and if so can it be wiggled to see any slop?
By "refuse to start" does it turn over, click or do anything?
Can you answer that question please. "refuse to start", can mean many things, either electrical or fuel related, depending on the symptoms.
Can you better explain your starting issues e.g. : Does it crank over at all? Does it crank but not start at all? Does it crank for long time then eventually start?
The family Sedan has had this tapping noise for quite some years and I thought I'd finally get to the bottom of it!
Both Hyundai and another local garage reckon that it needs an engine re-build! Which I think is a bit extreme.
I can only describe the noise as a light high pitched tapping which starts immediately on start up and then gets less and less as the engine warms up. It's like the sound of tappets on an old push rod engine (which are easy to adjust), it doesn't sound like a deep bottom engine knocking or clunking, more top end.
Has anyone experienced something similar and was it an easy fix, do these engines commonly sound tappy? The problem hasn't got any worse over the years it's just annoying and de-values the vehicle obviously.
Look forward to spending some time around the forum.
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Cold start rattle 2012 GD Premium 1.8 auto
) under the large plastic cover atop of the engine and along the timing chain cover and tensioner. Don't test too many places the first time as it just makes it harder to remember their noises.