i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: Craig00071 on May 01, 2014, 12:03:21
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My 2010 auto just hit 251000km.
Yesterday the transmission started whining under load and clicking when decelerating. It also has the lag when going into reverse.
Hyundai wants $11750 for a new box. I just purchased a second hand one on eBay (48000km on it) for $900 delivered. Installation is $600 labour, $100 oil and $120 for new seals.
I need the car on the road and don't have time for my box to be reco. Maybe I will have it fixed and sell it?
Next week it's having control arm bushes done as there is a lot of creaking noise when steering (I guess $700).
Last month I spent $1000 on a reconditioned steering rack and new strut tops.
I had a seat belt buckle replaced under warranty as it was sticking but now the passenger belt buckle needs replacing for the same reason. You press the red button and have to yank the belt to get the buckle undone.
This sounds like a rant but the car has been ok. It's just getting expensive and I'm wondering when to throw in the towel.
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$11750 for a new gearbox? :undecided: :Shocked:
:welcum:
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$11750 for a new gearbox? :undecided: :Shocked:
:welcum:
Tell me about it! I was laughing at the spare parts guy but it's not his fault.
I also forgot, the water pump died a few weeks ago. That was more hundreds :(
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An interesting thing about when the water pump died.
The engine was overheating but the temp gauge wasn't in the red.
My gauge normally sits just under the half way mark but when the engine was boiling, the gauge was only up to about the three quarter mark.
What was more of a surprise to me is that I drove for a further two hours.
The car went into limp mode. The air con worked intermittently and I just thought I had an air con problem. Then the auto wouldn't kick down and engine power wasn't very responsive. I then thought it was an electrical issue. Who would of thought the radiator had no water?
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An interesting thing about when the water pump died.
The engine was overheating but the temp gauge wasn't in the red.
My gauge normally sits just under the half way mark but when the engine was boiling, the gauge was only up to about the three quarter mark.
What was more of a surprise to me is that I drove for a further two hours.
The car went into limp mode. The air con worked intermittently and I just thought I had an air con problem. Then the auto wouldn't kick down and engine power wasn't very responsive. I then thought it was an electrical issue. Who would of thought the radiator had no water?
Yep my brother used to boast all the time how marvellous his old car was because the gauge never moved until his engine had a hissy fit and that was that, same thing no water to cover the sensor. :D
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My 2010 auto just hit 251000km.
Yesterday the transmission started whining under load and clicking when decelerating. It also has the lag when going into reverse.
Hyundai wants $11750 for a new box. I just purchased a second hand one on eBay (48000km on it) for $900 delivered. Installation is $600 labour, $100 oil and $120 for new seals.
I need the car on the road and don't have time for my box to be reco. Maybe I will have it fixed and sell it?
Is it a business vehicle, Craig? :undecided:
I'm assuming it is as otherwise you'd think the auto would have been covered by warranty...
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:wttc:
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My 2010 auto just hit 251000km.
Yesterday the transmission started whining under load and clicking when decelerating. It also has the lag when going into reverse.
Hyundai wants $11750 for a new box. I just purchased a second hand one on eBay (48000km on it) for $900 delivered. Installation is $600 labour, $100 oil and $120 for new seals.
I need the car on the road and don't have time for my box to be reco. Maybe I will have it fixed and sell it?
Is it a business vehicle, Craig? :undecided:
I'm assuming it is as otherwise you'd think the auto would have been covered by warranty...
Was wonderingthat myself Rusty,from my calculations craig still has 12 mths warranty left,why is the gearbox not covered :question:
another reason I didn't buy an Auto,when we got ours in 2011, we where quoted $6,500 to $8,000 to rebuild the FD Auto if it where out of warranty
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Thanks for the welcome :goodjob2:
My warranty was 5 years or 130000km. I got it new in 2010.
It's my driving school car. :happydance:
I know of another instructor with a manual and his has blown 3rd gear twice.
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Thanks for the welcome :goodjob2:
My warranty was 5 years or 130000km. I got it new in 2010.
It's my driving school car. :happydance:
I know of another instructor with a manual and his has blown 3rd gear twice.
Ah! This explains it,the unlimited Kilometer warranty must of come in,in 2011.
I doubt gearboxes in Driver training cars would last that long,especially manuals,I used to be a driving instructor in the army,some people should never be taught to drive in my book,those type of people were very hard on gearboxes and clutches.
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It's a business vehicle, Rick...business vehicles only get a 5 years/130,000k warranty... :)
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another reason I didn't buy an Auto,when we got ours in 2011, we where quoted $6,500 to $8,000 to rebuild the FD Auto if it where out of warranty
Quoted is 1 thing, doesn't have to cost that much, though.
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Either way I would think the gear box would be wear and tear at 251,000.....Makes my 105,000 look pedestrian.
Personally, if you had the cash I would get rid of it, any car is going to start playing up after a quarter of a million miles. Though if you think you have replaced all of the major stuff, then keep it going.
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155964.169 miles actually. :mrgreen:
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:lol:
155964.169 miles actually. :mrgreen:
:lol:
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Looking at carsales, it would appear depending where you are in this great land, with careful shopping you could get a car of the same age with 180 odd thousand K's less on the clock for a few grand more.....
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Looking at carsales, it would appear depending where you are in this great land, with careful shopping you could get a car of the same age with 180 odd thousand K's less on the clock for a few grand more.....
True. A car at that stage will probably need pads and disk machining.
Also it will need the pulleys done. That's $1200. I've replaced my pulleys twice. From memory, the book says to replace them at 130000km.
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Looking at carsales, it would appear depending where you are in this great land, with careful shopping you could get a car of the same age with 180 odd thousand K's less on the clock for a few grand more.....
True. A car at that stage will probably need pads and disk machining.
Also it will need the pulleys done. That's $1200. I've replaced my pulleys twice. From memory, the book says to replace them at 130000km.
What is a pulley and is the $1200 a Hyundai price? I'm about to do the 105k service and touch wood have not done anything to the brakes so far.
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Looking at carsales, it would appear depending where you are in this great land, with careful shopping you could get a car of the same age with 180 odd thousand K's less on the clock for a few grand more.....
True. A car at that stage will probably need pads and disk machining.
Also it will need the pulleys done. That's $1200. I've replaced my pulleys twice. From memory, the book says to replace them at 130000km.
What is a pulley and is the $1200 a Hyundai price? I'm about to do the 105k service and touch wood have not done anything to the brakes so far.
The 120000km service should replace the drive belt. The pulleys for the belt like the idler pulley, tension assembly and top flat pulley get noisy over time and, I assume will fail eventually, causing engine issues. Depending on the cars use, your mechanic may suggest replacement of these parts. The parts alone are around $700 as there is no aftermarket stuff available yet.
Brakes can be cheap if it's just pads, more if the discs need machining. I've had to replace a pair of disks because they had been machined too many times and were too thin to be machined again.
I have Learners driving my car though and Learners don't stop very smoothly !
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Looks like aftermarket parts suppliers have caught up
Hyundai I30 1 6L 4CYL Turbo Diesel Gates Belt Nuline Pulley Upgrade KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HYUNDAI-i30-1-6L-4CYL-TURBO-DIESEL-GATES-BELT-NULINE-PULLEY-UPGRADE-KIT-/251027258848)
SNR Tensioner Pulley Hyundai I30 2 0 Crdi 2007 2011 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SNR-Tensioner-Pulley-Hyundai-i30-2-0-CRDi-2007-2011-/251506534217?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8ef52749&_uhb=1)
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God bless ebay, it has saved me a fortune in spares :D
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Better tag those links for Firty's future! :victory:
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From memory the first ones are available from Super cheap for about the same price (before postage). The second link appears to be for the 2.0l CRDI....
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From memory the first ones are available from Super cheap for about the same price (before postage). The second link appears to be for the 2.0l CRDI....
Yeah. I couldnt find a 1.6l tensioner pulley assembly online but my mechanic got it from Hyundai and charged me $380 for it :head_butt:
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What does it actually cost, about $20.00 I suspect. :fum: :fum: :fum:
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This is the list of parts the local dealer said I need. The dealer sent me an offer of a discounted oil change so while there, I got them to check all the noises my car is making.
http://www.dropbox.com/s/09xnjuq8i531t6a/Photo%209-05-2014%208%2008%2014%20pm.jpg (http://www.dropbox.com/s/09xnjuq8i531t6a/Photo%209-05-2014%208%2008%2014%20pm.jpg)
Any Australians know where to buy the front sway bar links/drop links?
White line has fancy alloy ones for $170 and hyundai want $170 for genuine parts.
The only ones on eBay are from UK but I want some tomorrow :mrgreen:
My key broke a while ago. The blade holder cracked and the blade separated from the fob.
The dealer said it was a known problem and replaced it with a new complete key! I was very happy.