i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: noels_hobby on October 02, 2018, 23:19:03
-
2010 FD 215.5 k
recently found an oil leak at the front right of the engine bay, golden fine oil clearly not engine oil. Traced the source to the upper rubber air conditioner hose link at the front of the car in front of the drive belt .
initially the drive belt despite being a new replacement was slipping on occasion giving cause for further inspection.
the rubber hose in question seems to be crimped both ends and forms the link between the fixed ac line on the guard and the line to the front condenser.
car in off to the doctors tomorrow to have it fixed hose price quoted AU$230, clearly gold lined.
The AC system contains a mixture of refrigerant gas and a compressor oil, loss of the oil can cause compressor seizure.
noel
-
2010 FD 215.5 k
recently found an oil leak at the front right of the engine bay, golden fine oil clearly not engine oil. Traced the source to the upper rubber air conditioner hose link at the front of the car in front of the drive belt .
initially the drive belt despite being a new replacement was slipping on occasion giving cause for further inspection.
the rubber hose in question seems to be crimped both ends and forms the link between the fixed ac line on the guard and the line to the front condenser.
car in off to the doctors tomorrow to have it fixed hose price quoted AU$230, clearly gold lined.
The AC system contains a mixture of refrigerant gas and a compressor oil, loss of the oil can cause compressor seizure.
noel
is that dealer? Is that just the hose or total repair cost?
-
forgive me having a dyslectic moment - it reads -
a/c low pressure hose leaking $320 + lab $159.50 & a/c regass $190 - zupps aspley quote, parts ex Sydney 3 day to get parts
job done @ northlakes Hyundai, parts in stock - common repair do them all the time - car taken in night before so motor cold for morning work
replace ac discharge hose and regass part 977622h200 $270 + lab $170.89 + ac gas $45.01
Its not just the rubber hose its the metal pipe ends as well, one end goes on to the compressor, the other attaches to a bolt down near the radiator the rubber hose portion is crimped in.
noel
-
photos of the hose that was leaking
-
forgive me having a dyslectic moment - it reads -
a/c low pressure hose leaking $320 + lab $159.50 & a/c regass $190 - zupps aspley quote, parts ex Sydney 3 day to get parts
job done @ northlakes Hyundai, parts in stock - common repair do them all the time - car taken in night before so motor cold for morning work
replace ac discharge hose and regass part 977622h200 $270 + lab $170.89 + ac gas $45.01
Its not just the rubber hose its the metal pipe ends as well, one end goes on to the compressor, the other attaches to a bolt down near the radiator the rubber hose portion is crimped in.
noel
Ouch, have to wonder how much cheaper an aftermarket solution would be. Of course I can't help myself because I hate the excessive markups but that section can be landed here for about $80, ther's $200 back in the pocket before a spanner is turned :spitty:
So was the failure point in the hose or a crack in the piping? Just curious since I have a few of these myself.
-
failure was in the rubber hose itself - the compressor is attached to the motor the ac pipe to the body so any movement has to be adsorbed in that little rubber hose. car is 8 years old 215k km
-
failure was in the rubber hose itself - the compressor is attached to the motor the ac pipe to the body so any movement has to be adsorbed in that little rubber hose. car is 8 years old 215k km
Right, So looks like I'm in the ballpark then. I have 2 that have 213000 and 230000 original units. I have a compressor with the piping attached, pretty sure those sections are mutilated as the right side was destroyed.
Better check mine next time I'm under the bonnet. :undecided:
-
Don't let that compressor oil get into the drive belt.
now currently in the process of changing out all the plastic pulley and roller bits. there all soft and spongy. coated with this oil slime.
yes the drive belt actually etched into the top idler roller about 1mm
done the top roller idler, idler pulley, tensioner roller, water pump - alternator and ac compressor were metal already
now i got a tensioner vibration with only one possible cause.
does any one know where i can source a harmonic balancer ? looks like the rubber insert has been effected also
-
Don't let that compressor oil get into the drive belt.
now currently in the process of changing out all the plastic pulley and roller bits. there all soft and spongy. coated with this oil slime.
yes the drive belt actually etched into the top idler roller about 1mm
done the top roller idler, idler pulley, tensioner roller, water pump - alternator and ac compressor were metal already
now i got a tensioner vibration with only one possible cause.
does any one know where i can source a harmonic balancer ? looks like the rubber insert has been effected also
Has the harmonic balancer actually shat itself? Check first that the clutch pulley on teh alternator free spins in the opposite direction to normal rotation. In other words it should be locked clockwise is be able to slip in anti-clockwise. Ther will be some resistance in the slip direction. that will cause the tensioner to dance and they do go