i30 Owners Club
MODIFYING OR DETAILING YOUR I30 => ELECTRICAL | ELECTRONIC | AUDIO => Topic started by: Phil №❶ on July 07, 2012, 09:38:18
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All will be revealed tomorrow, hopefully. :neutral:
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I actually tried to take the rheostat out today and all I got was a sore hand and the removal of the blanking plate on the right hand side. Very interested.
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I had posted the solution earlier, but as they say "Houston we have a problem" which I want to check out tomorrow, then I'll re post. :neutral:
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Sadly, I have to report that the modification I performed was unsuccessful.
Yesterday I posted the mod in detail & was informed later that although the lights came on, so too did the parking lights, (I didn't notice this in daylight), even with the light switch off. To avoid confusion I deleted the detailed information.
Today I inserted a diode to block the power from getting to the parking lights and the result is that the parking lights do not light at the wrong time any more and the instrument lights refuse to light up. So basically my modification doesn't work.
The only other way, would be to dismantle the instruments and provide my mod to the circuit board at the back, but I'm definitely not prepared to do that, sorry chaps. :mad: :fum: :blubber:
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Thanks for the effort anyhow, Phil..... :goodjob:
Personally I've never had a problem seeing the dash during the day so not sure what all the fuss is about.... :undecided:
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Thanks for the effort anyhow, Phil..... :goodjob:
:whsaid:
Personally I've never had a problem seeing the dash during the day so not sure what all the fuss is about.... :undecided:
I reckon the dash needs lights on all the time .. I guess those that agree will just have to drive with the parks on :confused:
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Unfortunately, for me, my personality won't allow me to abandon this idea. I know some people don't have an issue with the lights, but I do. In my driving yesterday I needed to put parking lights on the see the instruments clearly due to weather.
I've been thinking about my previous failed attempt and sneakily, I think I've worked out a solution. However, it will be a long explanation and not tried by me as I don't think I can get access to the car to try it.
If enough people are interested in undertaking the mod, let me know chaps & lasses :neutral:
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As Winston Churchill said, "Never, never, never give up." :D
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I think it needs to be done. Let us know how... Please.
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I have ordered a workshop manual CD from Scotland :exclaim: just waiting for it to arrive, so I can confirm my theory and then I'll update here ASAP :neutral:
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I have ordered a workshop manual CD from Scotland :exclaim: just waiting for it to arrive, so I can confirm my theory and then I'll update here ASAP :neutral:
:goodjob2: :goodjob:
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I have ordered a workshop manual CD from Scotland :exclaim: just waiting for it to arrive, so I can confirm my theory and then I'll update here ASAP :neutral:
It will be in Scottish, you need one in English.... :p
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I have ordered a workshop manual CD from Scotland :exclaim: just waiting for it to arrive, so I can confirm my theory and then I'll update here ASAP :neutral:
It will be in Scottish, you need one in English.... :p
We have translators on the forum. :)
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Aye wee do... :lol:
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Aye wee do... :lol:
laddee :)
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I wonder if it's the same workshop manual you got, Daz? :undecided:
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I wonder if it's the same workshop manual you got, Daz? :undecided:
I forgot about that. :-[ I'll have to find it and drop Phil a line.. :idea:
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Probably a bit late now seeing as he's ordered.... :)
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I know this concerns some people and understand their worrries re visibility.
But, if as Phil says, when it's overcast and gloomy, wouldn't it be best to have the parkers on anyway?
So when the instrument lights are difficult to read, it's a warning about visibility on the road.
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Good point Trev.. I didn't have a problem just putting the parkers on :cool:
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Good point Trev.. I didn't have a problem just putting the parkers on :cool:
Yair. It's what I do too.
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I have ordered a workshop manual CD from Scotland :exclaim: just waiting for it to arrive, so I can confirm my theory and then I'll update here ASAP :neutral:
I take it this the Manufacturer's manual not the "Haynes" (DIY) manual?
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No, its only a cheapie, but hopefully enough to tell me the wiring layout. :exclaim:
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What made you get one from Scotland, Phil? :undecided:
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ebay, that's where it is :)
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Oh, you must've missed this one then:
:link: (http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYUNDAI-i30-2008-2011-PRO-WORKSHOP-MANUAL-/180928236789?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D599758792557893313%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D4%26)
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Knew about that one, but no diesel info :fum:
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Ok, unusual to find one with the diesel...... :goodjob:
We'll be waiting for a full review... :whistler:
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Better tell em to send it via Alan Ho then :whistler:
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Aye wee do... :lol:
http://www.lexilogos.com/english/gaelic_scottish_dictionary.htm (http://www.lexilogos.com/english/gaelic_scottish_dictionary.htm) :goodjob:
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I have ordered a workshop manual CD from Scotland :exclaim: just waiting for it to arrive, so I can confirm my theory and then I'll update here ASAP :neutral:
Can you give details/link please?
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I hope I don't need that, looks quite scary :faint:
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you can find my solution to solve this problem here:
http://www.hyundaiboard.de/thread.php?postid=154356#post154356 (http://www.hyundaiboard.de/thread.php?postid=154356#post154356)
Gruß,
Pjotr
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Thankyou pjotr_weliki :goodjob:
I translated it with "Google Translate"
I have now found a solution to the problem, and yesterday in my i30 ISG fold lift installed.
The whole thing works fine, go all the instrument lights and illuminated pushbuttons, switches, etc. cigarette lighter or both off the lights when ignition key to "ON" and also the rheostat does what it should.
And now the best part: the whole thing is 15 minutes work costs, 5mm solder and 2cm scotch tape!
First Remove fuse cover on the dashboard
Second the aperture in the lid is secure, remove through getting pulling the door from the far side rubber
Third Controls how Leuchweiteregelung remove etc. by pressing the back and pull the plug
4th the 2 screws at the side of the lower instrument panel
5th below loosen the other 2 screws from the lower instrument panel
6th the lower instrument panel to the upper 2 clips carefully loosen and swing down
7th OBD connector unclip or unscrew the plate.
8th the two connectors I / PB and I / PC which is directly behind the other pull
9th the red / orange wire on pin 3 of connector I / PC 2cm from the plug to 5mm Strip Length
10th the pink (pink) wire from pin 18 of the black connector I / PB 2cm from the plug to cut and solder it to the red / orange wire on pin 3 of connector I / PC
11th the solder joint with Scotch tape to isolate
12th reassemble it
13th enjoy a bottle of beer, open up and grin
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/rustynutz69/fusebox.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/rustynutz69/Instrumentlighting-at-at-Z-ignition-ON.jpg)
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google translation is wrong:
example " ...and also the rheostat does not what it should"
right translation is " ...and also the rheostat does what it should"
I will try tomorrow to translate, but my english is not the best...
Gruß
Pjotr
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Thanks for the correction, Pjotr :goodjob:
I have changed my post to show this....
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Hi Pjotr
Thanks for the how-to. :goodjob2:
Will see if I can get that mod done to my car...
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you can find my solution to solve this problem here:
Nice work Peter - thanks for sharing it with your new best forum ;)
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you can find my solution to solve this problem here:
Nice work Peter - thanks for sharing it with your new best forum ;)
:whsaid:
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today my translation:
I have found a solution to solve the problem now, and installed in my i30 cw facelift ISG yesterday.
Everything works perfectly, the instrument lights and also the illuminated pushbuttons, switches, cigarette lighter etc., when ignition key to "ON" and also the rheostat does what he have to do, independent if the headlights switch is on or off.
And now the best: The whole work are 15 minutes, costs 5 mm solder and 2 cm Scotch tape!
1. Remove fuse cover on the dashboard
2. Dismount the bezel where the fuse cover sits, by start courage pulling on the side away from the door rubber
3. Remove the push buttons and controls by pressing with fingers from backwards and pull out all plugs
4. Unscrew the 2 screws at the side of the lower instrument panel
5. Loosen the other 2 screws below from the lower instrument panel
6. Carefully loosen the lower instrument panel at the upper 2 clips and move the panel down
7. Unclip the OBD connector or unscrew the metal plate
8. Pull off the two connectors I/P-B und I/P-C, which are directly in a row (If necessary pull out all others. The plugs cannot mixed up)
9. Unisolate the red/orange wire on pin 3 of connector I/PC approx. away 2 cm from the plug for a length of 5mm
10. Cut the pink wire from pin 18 of the black connector I/PB approx. away 2cm from the plug. Strip it and solder it at the red/orange wire on pin 3 of connector I/PC
11. Isolate the solder joint with Scotch tape
12. Reassemble everything
13. Open a bottle of beer, enjoy and grin
Picture and schematic see Appendix.
Regards
Pjotr
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Excellent :goodjob: (I've stickied the topic)
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I'm glad that's resolved now, I don't care who comes up with the solution as long as it gets to the forum members. Well done !
BTW I've been forbidden to do the mod :Pout:
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BTW I've been forbidden to do the mod :Pout:
Don't you hate that :undecided: :disapp:
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It's a real downer :'(
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Doesn't the i30 require servicing this weekend? :p :winker:
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Actually it is coming up soon but I wouldn't get away with that :neutral:
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Bump!
So does this mean we have a workable strategy for fitting DRLs to an FD?
I'm not about to dive in any time soon but I think a bunch of people would like to have that option. Which solution looks the most promising?
If none is feasible, any ideas on which lines to tap to extract the right logic for an independent relay to do the work without messing up the other functions?
If answers aren't forthcoming, anyone point me to a reliable (genuinely representative) schematic? Is this what's coming via Scotland?
So many questions! :faint:
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This thread is specifically for instrument lighting.
To answer your questions,
DRL's have been fitted by many members & the method generally is to wire from the light feed to a relay which disconnects with headlamp on.
The schematic from Scotland turned out to be a pirate copy of hy service software and was ogf no use at all to me, I got my money back. :mrgreen:
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Ah, context is everything. I see with some more reading what is wanted is an always-illuminated dash. If Pjotr's info won't do it and neither will the dud stuff from Haggisland, I'd be looking at tapping into some of the persistent illumination elsewhere on the dash such as the aircon panel.
I don't expect it to be as simple as a fuse to centre dash jumping contact to a fuse to instrument cluster but you never know. :whistler:
Does anyone have the all-important schematic? :clapping:
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As I said Gonz, I've already done it, it's the pink wire from the "rheostat" that lights the dash. That's easy, stopping the darn parking lights is the problem.
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Sorry, Phil, I'm seriously behind on what's been tried.
That pink wire must still be common to both circuits if the parkers are coming on as well. That's not where I'd be looking. There are bits that turn on at IGN without the switch action that turns on the parkers, so a schematic would help locate a suitable point for the new connection.
You effectively have to disconnect the cluster's illumination from the parker circuit and reconnect it to the IGN line. If the fusebox won't offer a convenient point, it looks like surgery. :whistler:
... You've obviously been over this detail already, hence your idea of using a diode to block the relay's action. I'll look at the German schematic and see if it's of any use.
... The schematic and Pjotr's instructions appear to simply dispense with the DRL relay and divert to the cluster fuse instead. I don't see yet how this will preserve DRL function.
I still think a better signal (power) separation between parkers and cluster has to occur, and an accurate schematic will show what the best approach will be.
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can you add video?
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Haven't read all the posts, but I would ave thought starting at the dimmer switch might have worked? Anyone tried that?
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Yes, it's what I did originally in this thread, but I withdrew the info because the parking light problem eventuated, so getting instruments on is easy but not without parkers at the moment.
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Just gave it a shot, but was kind of disappointed to find all those big OEM connectors.
Although I could, I don't really like to cut the existing wiring, so I'll have to find another way I guess.
In my previous car, I just connected it between the headunit power wires (aftermarket unit, so seperate wires were available), without cutting any original wiring.
DANG!
Thanks though :goodjob: getting to the fusebox wasn't that hard (just one very stubborn clip on the panel below the steeringwheel, rest was a breeze)
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Yes, the member that performed the instrument modification said it didn't take very long. I must say I'm a little surprised that you didn't follow through with your modification, given that you went to the trouble of uncovering all the wires.
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cr*p.... posted in the wrong thread, so a bit offtopic... sorry guys! was about my attempt to connect the phone charger to the fusebox.
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It is my thread so no worries. :goodjob2: