i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: succulant on March 11, 2013, 16:57:06
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Well after a year and a half of faultless reliablility I guess it had to happen sooner or later. I got in the car this morning and almost immediately it began to run roughly before the 'ESP OFF' light came on followed by a total loss of power and the car cutting out altogether. A re-start had it running fine for another 2-3 minutes before the same thing happened again leaving me stranded two minutes from home at a busy junction for two hours waiting on the RAC while facing Blackpool illuminations on the dashboard. Of course when the RAC chap arrived it started and ran no problem all the way home. Plugging in the diagnostics doofer showed no codes whatsoever and the chap thought it may be a frozen or contaminated fuel filter, saying that it was quite common for them to clog on Hyundai and Kia diesels. I've also read a couple of the threads on this website about the 'above 3000 rev' problem but as my car never goes anywhere near 3000 revs its hard to say if its related. So as it stands my car is in my local garage having its fuel filter changed. However if that doesn't fix it I foresee a trip the Hyundai dealer with my warranty book :disapp:
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two hours waiting on the RAC
Compo re 45 minute response?
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two hours waiting on the RAC
Compo re 45 minute response?
Well it took almost that long for them to answer the phone this morning! I think they were suffering from a spate of flat batteries given we had a dusting of snow.
Anyway the car is back and I'm told that replacing the filter was a 'pig of a job' but at least its running again and I'll see how it is over the next few days.
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It's very important to know what was in the filter. If it was clogged, then what with. Your fuel tank should be and always be, pristine inside, if not then your're just inviting a repeat when the filter clogs again. :exclaim: If it was just frozen, then the time / expense of replacing the filter was wasted. :(
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Can't help thinking: Brake light switch... :question:
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Hi Succulant,
I know it's cold in England, but cold enough for diesel to freeze? I doubt it! If anything is freezing I would suspect that you have water in your tank and that is freezing when in contact with the filter. I would strongly recommend tracking down some fuel treatment to condition the fuel and remove the water. If you have water in the fuel you may also have a diesel bug which is bad news, it may cause your vehicle to stall or loose power even in the summer.
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Hi Succulant,
I know it's cold in England, but cold enough for diesel to freeze? I doubt it! If anything is freezing I would suspect that you have water in your tank and that is freezing when in contact with the filter. I would strongly recommend tracking down some fuel treatment to condition the fuel and remove the water. If you have water in the fuel you may also have a diesel bug which is bad news, it may cause your vehicle to stall or loose power even in the summer.
Its even colder in Scotland but not cold enough to freeze diesel. I think that has a freezing point of about -45. Its water in the filter that we though might be freezing. So far so good though, it seems fine again but some fuel treatment sounds like a wise idea.
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Can't help thinking: Brake light switch... :question:
Interessting. I didn't know about that and will check my brakes lights next time the ESP light comes on. Thanks
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Can't help thinking: Brake light switch... :question:
Interessting. I didn't know about that and will check my brakes lights next time the ESP light comes on. Thanks
Apparently, the brake lights may still be working when the ESP light comes on. Evidently on open circuit registers and the electrical system tells the ESP that there is a brake fault. You don't have to apply the brakes for this open circuit to be detected. I was discussing the ESP light issue with the service centre and was given this info.
This could be confirmed if the switch was inspected and there were several contacts on the switch that relay info to the various systems in the vehicle.
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My i30 does not stall but regularly, (not permanently), goes into Limp Home Mode - See Limp Home Mode Posts.
For example, this morning 7am, -4 C, (icicles hanging off), started up, accelerator pedal/engine felt & sounded strange, drove off, ESP light on & into LHM, foot hard down on pedal - maximum about 2500 rpm, engine management light then illuminated, after 4 miles vehicle accelerated & I lifted foot off at 80mph to slow to 60. ESP went off after 6 miles, engine mang. light remained on.
Vehicle not operated for 7 hours.
Returned home 16.45, no warning lights on, but after 5 miles ESP light illuminated, the vehicle had ran perfectly.
With each visit to the dealership, LHM has not activated, only listed as "Historical", and they have obviously been unable to fix it - yet :(
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With each visit to the dealership, LHM has not activated, only listed as "Historical", and they have obviously been unable to fix it - yet :(
Your car might be the first one in the :Hos: :disapp:
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Can't help thinking: Brake light switch... :question:
You were right. I decided to drop the car into the dealer and it does need a new brake switch. Nice one.
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it does need a new brake switch.
Hope so - for your peace of mind.
They have replaced 3 in mine already, plus several other items, and still the i30 has similar problems.
"Lorian" on this site, has previously made some extremely interesting additional & knowledgeable possibilities.
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it does need a new brake switch.
Hope so - for your peace of mind.
They have replaced 3 in mine already, plus several other items, and still the i30 has similar problems.
"Lorian" on this site, has previously made some extremely interesting additional & knowledgeable possibilities.
Well fingers crossed that's it sorted. Another intersting twist is that both dipped headlight bulbs were blown this morning leaving me drving to work with side lights only. The dealer issures me its coincidental and has replaced them both. However reading through this forum shows that blown headlight bulbs are fairly common too. I hope this isn't the start of ongoing problems.
Lorian does seem to have some interesting comments.
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Lorian does seem to have had his fair share of problems!
He has been very knowledgable and previously offered helpful advice & assistance to other members, including me.
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Lorian does seem to have had his fair share of problems!
He has been very knowledgable and previously offered helpful advice & assistance to other members, including me.
We lost Lorian for around 12 months (he was just too busy) but great to see him back recently... :goodjob:
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My i30 does not stall but regularly, (not permanently), goes into Limp Home Mode - See Limp Home Mode Posts.
For example, this morning 7am, -4 C, (icicles hanging off), started up, accelerator pedal/engine felt & sounded strange, drove off, ESP light on & into LHM, foot hard down on pedal - maximum about 2500 rpm, engine management light then illuminated, after 4 miles vehicle accelerated & I lifted foot off at 80mph to slow to 60. ESP went off after 6 miles, engine mang. light remained on.
Vehicle not operated for 7 hours.
Returned home 16.45, no warning lights on, but after 5 miles ESP light illuminated, the vehicle had ran perfectly.
With each visit to the dealership, LHM has not activated, only listed as "Historical", and they have obviously been unable to fix it - yet :(
Does it do like this:
https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=19313.msg209453#msg209453 (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=19313.msg209453#msg209453)
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Does it do like this:
https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=19313.msg209453#msg209453 (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=19313.msg209453#msg209453)[/url]
Strangely not the same, resulting in similar personal feelings though - vehicle not to be trusted :eek:
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it does need a new brake switch.
Hope so - for your peace of mind.
They have replaced 3 in mine already, plus several other items, and still the i30 has similar problems.
"Lorian" on this site, has previously made some extremely interesting additional & knowledgeable possibilities.
Well fingers crossed that's it sorted. Another intersting twist is that both dipped headlight bulbs were blown this morning leaving me drving to work with side lights only. The dealer issures me its coincidental and has replaced them both. However reading through this forum shows that blown headlight bulbs are fairly common too. I hope this isn't the start of ongoing problems.
Lorian does seem to have some interesting comments.
don't start your car with the headlights on,also don't have your foot on the brake pedal when starting it. :idea: my wife's car blew headlight and brakelight globes by the dozzens,no foot on the brake or headlights on whilst starting the car and not a single blown globe in 4 months. :wink:
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Just a couple of points:
GD models with keyless start need you to have your foot on the brake or the car won't start. It's part of the start routine.
When you start the car, the headlights go off while starting. This on-off could well be the cause of blowing of headlights, so yes, this could be an issue.
Having said that, using auto headlights on, I am fairly certain the headlights stay off until the car starts.
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Well fingers crossed that's it sorted. Another intersting twist is that both dipped headlight bulbs were blown this morning leaving me drving to work with side lights only. The dealer issures me its coincidental and has replaced them both. However reading through this forum shows that blown headlight bulbs are fairly common too. I hope this isn't the start of ongoing problems.
Lorian does seem to have some interesting comments.
If the first 3 characters of your VIN are "TMA" then the vehicle may need a headlamp wiring extension kit fitted that improves the life of the dipped beam bulbs. There is a TSB that applies, your dealer should know about it.