i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => PETROL => Topic started by: lyngo on March 13, 2010, 09:31:21
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When I'm approaching a red light or slowing down in traffic, the car seems to stall very easily and at a higher speed than other manuals I've driven. It's very jarring and happens suddenly...other cars I've driven have sort of shuddered slowly before stalling, giving good warning of an impending stall. The ET suddenly lurches and stalls in an instant. Why does this happen and how bad is it for the car? It's happened 5 or 6 times already.
Thanks,
Lyn (driving an Elantra Touring in US)
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Hi Lyn,
I drive a Diesel which has an antistall function so I can't speak from experience. However, several petrol engines owners on here have mentioned stalling issues when they first got their vehicles.. from what I recall generally they were able to modify their driving techniques to avoid the problem.. But from what you say this might not be easy...
I look forward to some of their comments with interest...
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i asume your car has a manual gearbox [stick shift] and not an automatic.
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Yes, it's a manual transmission.
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i stalled my car a few times when it was new due to my not being used to the clutch pick up piont,and a lot of other members on this site have mentiond this also. :-[ try changing down gears as you come to a stop.
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I'm wondering if the car is just new? If so, the initial stiffness will be a factor and time will improve its tolerance to low RPM loads.
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That would make sense. I'm very familiar with manuals but this is my first new car.
Thanks for the replies.
Lyn
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Just a question:
In neutral, if you press the gas and get the revs up to say 2500 and then take your foot off the gas, do the revs drop slowly and then hover around the idle RPM or do they drop fast and dip below the idle of 800 - 900 RPM to cause the stall?
If so, it may be worth getting the ECU settings checked out to make sure that management system is operating correctly.
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I'm having difficulty with stalling too. I think it's a combination of the clutch being very light (previous car had a fairly heavy clutch pedal, the i30 feels like my foots waving about in thin air) and the engine being quiet at low revs (only really starts to growl at ~3k, barely hear it around 2k)
Think it's a case of practice.
Bit of a pain the the arse though, I have a very narrow driveway to reverse into (need the electric folding mirrors) and I have to be very careful about lining up, let my concentration slip from the engine and I stall :rolleyes:
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Hi i found it hard to adjust from driving my 17 year old car to my new i30 everything is light steering, clutch, accelerator. :razz: Once i had to ask my wife if the engine was still running as i couldnt hear it :rolleyes:
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I'm taking it out tonight and will give that a try. Thanks for your advice, will post my results in the morning.
Lyn
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I stalled my i30 for the first few weeks until I got used to it. As moxey has said, the controls are very light and you need to adjust to them. I found that I used to many revs or stalled with not enough revs.
You will get used to it :lol:
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the car seems to stall very easily and at a higher speed than other manuals I've driven. It's very jarring and happens suddenly...
I presumably don't have the same engine (gamma 1.6l) as you (beta 2.0l) but I also think it stalls without warning. At the beginning it was difficult compared to my 19 year old previous car but now I find it great There are few things interesting to know to understand what makes it difficult:
The clutch is hydraulic operated, on a clutch operated through a cable you could feel the vibration in your foot when it gets in contact.
The flow meter is in fact indirect, through manifold pressure and RPM.
The variable timing of the inlet valves makes the engine more efficient at low load, as soon as you open a bit the throttle it gets to 3000 rpm. It is then difficult to regulate at 1500 RPM.
Idling is at 650 rpm.
One trick I found interesting to learn the friction point of the clutch is not to open the throttle to park the car when the surface is flat. I use only the clutch and the brake to regulate the speed of the car and leave the engine idling at 650 RPM. The injection calculator regulates the idling speed when you clutch in. Once you got the trick you can also start from red light this way when it is flat and it is not F1 start.
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I also had to adapt to the lightness of the car's controls, but after 14000km I got used to it.
It didn't help that my previous standard car (1989-1995) was a 1984 Chevrolet Chevette, with power nothing :eek: (brakes, steering, cable-operated clutch, etc...) My left leg got a good workout from the clutch, and the right leg from the brakes. :exclaim:
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The clutch is hydraulic operated, on a clutch operated through a cable you could feel the vibration in your foot when it gets in contact.
That makes a lot of sense, in fact I think that's my one main complaint I've got with the i30 so far, all the controls are too detached from the car, no real feel to them. Shame as it's quiet a nice chassis and holds the road nicely.
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So, there is no sudden drop when I get the RPMs up. I guess I'll just have to pay more attention while the car gets broken in. My mileage is really low, still under 1000 miles. I'm really enjoying this car!
Thanks for all the replies,
Lyn
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Hi lyngo the i30 is one of the best handling cars that i have driven even comparing it to a ford focus its still better you will get used to it enjoy your car :razz:
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Sorry to bring up an old thread but better than starting a new one on the same topic IMO..
That is one thing Trish and I have found with the CW (Petrol) it will stall when taking off if you are not careful (Our previous i30 CRDi had antistall feature and so I don't think I ever stalled that!)
Mind you it only happened to each of us about twice and I think we both have the hang of it now.. just a tad more revs and smooth clutch release :goodjob:
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Dazz, i think more to do with Torque, as the CRDi develops TQ from about 1,500 rev & gets maximum TQ from 1,900 to 3,000? in a flat torque curve. i'm not sure when the 2.0 petrol starts to make useable TQ but it takes to over 4,000 rev to get to Maxium. TQ is mustle or twist, it thusts you forward, no Torque no mustle.
& thats compareing a 1.6 to a 2.0, if we had a 2.0 CRDi here would be even more impressive.
i wish we got the 2.2R CRDi in the i30.
Just ride the clutch.
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There have been suggestions that it's a low mass flywheel that takes getting used to, but I'm not sure anyone has weighed it.
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Yeah I have the 1.6 petrol and I had the stalling problem when pulling away, but never on stopping.
Pulling away, as some of the experienced members have suggested, is to do with developing a more sensitive feel on the clutch.. Stalling when stopping I am guessing would just be a matter or dropping the clutch a little sooner than usual when coming to a standstill, although, I can see it being a nuisance if it's doing it when your doing a slow roll at a junction where you *don't quite* stop but can have a quick look then go again, if it stalls in these circs then that would be annoying. In that event maybe the technician would want to slightly increase the tick over speed.
However, as anyone round these parts who knows me will tell you, I know nothing. Ideas thoughts and suggestions are based on absolutely no credible knowledge, so do feel free to ignore :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
asathorny
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In that event maybe the technician would want to slightly increase the tick over speed.
This is often controlled by an Idle Air Control Valve of some sort in modern motors.
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However, as anyone round these parts who knows me will tell you, I know nothing. Ideas thoughts and suggestions are based on absolutely no credible knowledge, so do feel free to ignore :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
asathorny
Settle down asa.. you are among friends on here we wouldn't prejudge you for the stupid things you say :rofl: :rofl:
But seriously, don't go knocking yourself, plenty of others will do that for you... :rolleyes:
Back on Topic .. Don't seem to stall Trish's car now .. (the few short trips I've driven it lately) :sweating:
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No such problem with the diesel as it has anti stall facility
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Yeah I know Dazz, I was just letting Lyngo know that most of what I was saying was sorta guess work :)....
The air intake thing, I sorta knew BUT I wasn't sure if that was now under the control of the engine PCB... if it's still a little screwy thing on the carb I'd be right at home with that. I won't be messing with mine tho, has it is perfik just now
asathorny
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Well, when i got my new yaris (only 998cc) i was forever stalling it,
it went back to Toyota many times, until a new guy joined the garage and said
"i know what it is, Ive come across it before"
the tickover was too low, and when you hit the gas the ecu got confused because it was too low, and
hesitated for a split second till it decided what to do,
he just turned up the tickover slightly, and it cured it!
after 6 months of being checked it was something as easy as that,
Toyota changed the plugs, injectors, coils etc etc.
and all it took, was a mechanic that had had the problem before and fixed it in 1 minute.
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I'm surprised this has not been moved to Petrol problems & issues, as potential new car buyers might think it's the normal with a i30 manual. but this just seems to be a petrol manual issue.
but with modern diesel's they are not amune to stalling issues with manual. I test drove both the Focus & the Mazda 3 turbo diesel's and even though they both had 2.0 common rail turbo diesel motors they both stalled very easy, but once thgey got going they were fine. then i drove the little 1.6 CRDi i30 and it was like a giant killer felt tough starting on hill's with the diesel is a breeze, don't even need to use throtle just ease out clutch & away you go.
In the end, if you have to ride the clutch on a 4 cylinder car to stop stalling & you do a lot of city driving, don't expect the clutch to last much longer than 100,000k & that is not covered by warranty.
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I guess I missed the original comment but there have been a couple of replies now which seem to refer to stalling on slowing down. If so that would seem to me to be a simple case of changing down another gear a fraction sooner as the car slows.
Re: just easing the clutch out with no throttle in the diesels, I remember competing in one of the 4 day, Sydney to Melbourne, Total Oil Economy Runs back in the mid 70's. Racing drivers Kevin Bartlett and John Leffler were driving a diesel Golf and their party trick was to start it in gear without the clutch and it would just move off smoothly.
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I really liked that feature of the Diesel .. don't think I stalled it even once in my 28 months of ownership.. Never stalled the Petrol yet on slowdown and seems fine on takeoff too now that I am aware of it.. (It's OK Trish.. not doing too many km's in it) :confused:
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I really liked that feature of the Diesel .. don't think I stalled it even once in my 28 months of ownership.. Never stalled the Petrol yet on slowdown and seems fine on takeoff too now that I am aware of it.. (It's OK Trish.. not doing too many km's in it) :confused:
now you've made those comments,you'll stall the cw now. :rofl:
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Stalling on slowing down could also be a problem with the vacuum booster for the brakes, the hosing or the check valve, however its more than likely the Idle Air Control.