i30 Owners Club
MODIFYING OR DETAILING YOUR I30 => ELECTRICAL | ELECTRONIC | AUDIO => Topic started by: Lorian on December 18, 2009, 12:38:51
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After trying to follow previous advice on removing the headlights, I think maybe when they made the black european versions of the lights they made them slightly different shape, because there was no way I could get them out without either removing the bumper or risking scraping it.
Given its -2 degrees outside, I didn't fancy either of these options. So I went for the "less risky" route and went to the headlights from behind. Please note it is NOT possible to replace indicatior (blinker, turn singinal) bulbs (globes) this way.
On the right (looking at the car) it's very easy. Just disconnect the battery (two 10mm) and remove it's mount (one 13mm). Remove the battery. This is the trickiest bit as its heavy and a tight fit!
Once this is out replacing the low, high and sidelight bulbs is pretty easy assuming you have seen they type of bulb wire clips before. If you haven't go play with some on a car where you can see them well first!
Proceed by unscrewing the caps. Remove high beam bulb before removing sidelight. Main bean bulb has a clip to press to detach the wire. Replace the sidelight (I used LED) before replacing the main beam blub. Temporarily re-connect battery and check LED works. If not turn it around.
The low beam is easy to do if you remember to put the notch in the bulb housing directly downwards in to the slot. No clip on the wire, just pull/push.
(http://www.bug-byte.co.uk/i30/right1.JPG)
On the left, it's a little trickier. They layout has been redesigned slightly I think. You don't need to touch the radiator resevoir. You need to unbolt the bonnet switch, alarm horn, and fuse box from the sidewall. This is about 6 x 10mm bolts, and push the components gently back out of the way.
(http://www.bug-byte.co.uk/i30/left1.JPG)
Now the procedure for replacment of the bulbs is the same as for the right side. Remember to bolt everything back and reconnect the battery when done.
(http://www.bug-byte.co.uk/i30/left2.JPG)
Please prcoceed with care, as always no warrant expressed or implied.
I didn't get oppertunity to drive the car in the dark with the old bulbs, so I will have no idea how much better the new ones are, but hopefully they will work well. I'm using nightbreakers and philips extreme.
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Thanks for illustrating a different way of doing this :D
I removed my offside lamp yesterday to see if my new LED sidelight cluster would fit. It didn't. However, I did manage to remove the headlight housing completely, removing just the 3 bolts and unclipping two harnesses. Getting it back in was, as always, a right royal pain in the neck, but nothing scratched... it was just very tricky.
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Great post Lorian
I want to change my bulbs but did not fancy removing the units. Will try this when its warmer :lol:
Looking at my weather station, out side temp is just 32.6 F
Must admit I'm a summer person, hate the cold and dark days :'(
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Thanks for illustrating a different way of doing this :D
I removed my offside lamp yesterday to see if my new LED sidelight cluster would fit. It didn't. However, I did manage to remove the headlight housing completely, removing just the 3 bolts and unclipping two harnesses. Getting it back in was, as always, a right royal pain in the neck, but nothing scratched... it was just very tricky.
The 1W SUPERLUX (ebay) sidelights are very bright to my eyes, and very white, I'm pleased with them.
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Yeah, Good work Lorian.. thanks.. :wink:
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The 1W SUPERLUX (ebay) sidelights are very bright to my eyes, and very white, I'm pleased with them.
I can only find INTERIOR bulb when I search eBay with that reference.
Can you tell us what the listing number is, or seller full description.
Thanks :D
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I ordered a set of these yesterday, thanks to this link (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUPERLUX-T10-W5W-501-194-WEDGE-XENON-SIDELIGHT-LED_W0QQitemZ380189228436QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item58850b3d94) provided by Lorian :D
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I ordered a set of these yesterday, thanks to this link (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUPERLUX-T10-W5W-501-194-WEDGE-XENON-SIDELIGHT-LED_W0QQitemZ380189228436QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item58850b3d94) provided by Lorian :D
Thanks Shambles.
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I hope you like them. someone else on here (I forgot who sorry!) recommended them originally. They look good when driving on low beam at night. They are a little cooler/bluer tone than my philips extreme dipped beam. You can't see them much when main beam is on (Lorian, blinded).
They appear to have resistors and diodes built in. You don't destroy them if you connect them up the wrong way, they just don't work. If they don't light you just turn them around.
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First opportunity to try the new headlights last night.
I'm not really very impressed with the low beam on the i30, not related to the bulbs, presumably because they are projectors units, which I have never experienced before:
- the horizontal cutoff is like 100% there is no spill above the shield which make you feel like you are driving into a black hole
- There is a slight refraction of light on the cutoffs giving a little orangy corona effect which I don't like
- The units seem to be set up in parallel, so the light beams don't both focus in the same place. Keep in mind I drive on the left. If I look at the beam pattern it looks like this:
\_ \_ on the i30 - like the beams run in parallel to each other
\_ I believe in my old car the lights converged so pretty much all you saw was one of these. Maybe it was just because there was more spill and the pattern less precise?
Does everyone else have the two really distinct light patterns from low (dipped) beam?
High beam on the other hand with the nighbreakers is VERY good, brighter than my old car and no issues.
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Does everyone else have the two really distinct light patterns from low (dipped) beam?
Mine are the same as yours on my i30 and Volvo C30 which also has these projector type headlights :D
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Still didn't really like the orangy Philips x-tremes, so today I have fitted nightbreakers into the dipped beam too.
Two notes on doing this as it's postively warm outside (dodging the showers).
1. For my method on the first page, you don't need to unbolt the alarm horn, you can just unbolt the relay cage and tuck it under the header-tank rubber pipe out of the way.
2. To adjust the headlight level it's not quite the same on cars with electric levelling.You cannot put a philips screwdrive down into the "slot", as the motor is in the way. You have to put the scredrive in a whole at the back of the motor. I'll post some pics later. I think there maybe a dipped beam adjuster out of sight by indicator bulb though, not sure yet. Going top try adjusting tonight.
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To adjust the
MAIN dipped/low beam on cars equiped with electronic level control, the manual adjusters are to be found behind the normal adjustment holes, as pointed to in the photos. <later edit> These adjusters did seem to adjust the dipped beam ok which suprised me.
(http://www.bug-byte.co.uk/i30/adjust2.jpg)
(http://www.bug-byte.co.uk/i30/adjust3.jpg)
I think the DIPPED beam adjusters are at the bottom of the hole indicated by the Red elipse I added on the photo (thanks to whoever's photo it was, I fogot which thread I stole it from). In-car it will be necessary to adjust this with a very thin philips (or possibley flathead) screwdriver, but I don't have one long-enough and thin enough to get in there. Maybe I'm wrong about this adjuster though, I won't know till I get a longer tool %-) Certainly the other adjusters didnt move the Dipped beam. <later edit> not sure what the other adjusters actually did, maybe lateral adjustment, but clicking the ones that are easy to get to (green) raised the dipped bean level just fine. Each click doesn't move the beam up far, but you don't need many clicks to raise the lights just a little so as not to blind other drivers. best to mark up the existing positions on a wall in front of the car before you start changing anything.
(http://www.bug-byte.co.uk/i30/adjust.jpg)
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Fitted my Philips Blue Vision today. Used your method but did not remove the battery, could just about manage that side. Had to remove the plastic rad expansion tank only for the drivers side.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa88/hbking2pics/hyundai/head_blue_vis.jpg)
Tried 2 different side light bulbs, but again used the Philips Blue Vision as the Led type is just to bright.
Standard side light
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa88/hbking2pics/hyundai/hd_sd_std_01.jpg)
Blue Vision side light
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa88/hbking2pics/hyundai/hd_sd_blu_01.jpg)
Led side light
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa88/hbking2pics/hyundai/hd_sd_led_01.jpg)
Need to go out in the dark to see how much difference there is now. The head lights are now much more white than the standard bulbs. No real blue tint, but just white.
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Good stuff. You must have small hands (Or I have big ones!) as there is no way I could get to the right hand main beam without moving the battery. Going to test mine now :-)
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I found the worst one to change was the main beam behind the washer bottle neck. I also kept accidently touching the bulbs and had to keep cleaning my paw prints off them.
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OK, I tried the nightbreakers in dipped too, and prefer them.
(obviously) they are the same colour as the nightbreakers in the main beam. The Philips X-treme were a little yellow. Before when I switched between high and low beam there was a small but perceptible colour shift. Now they are both just white. No tested in rain yet, but am sure they will be OK.
The refraction of the light across the top of the shadow masks is maybe 30% less noticeable too.
Might still raise them just a little if I can find the elusive long thin screwdriver.
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Good stuff Lorian. I like my Osram NB dipped beam bulbs - crystal clear beams
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I found the worst one to change was the main beam behind the washer bottle neck. I also kept accidently touching the bulbs and had to keep cleaning my paw prints off them.
I have vague recollection I might have placed this one in with long nose pliers. Its only minor, but it's poor design in this area, there is no need to put the relay box and filler spout right behind the bulb covers, there is plenty of room to give them some clearence with a slight redesign.
I also noticed there are several plugs with poor insulation/waterproofing. I'll stick some self-amalgumating tape on them sometime.
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Having just re-reviewed the photos,
I think the dipped beam cannot be adjusted with the headlight in-situ if it has an electronic adjuster attached*. Like the main beam, the electronic actuator would move the manual adjuster knob backwards a couple of inches, so rather than lining up with the "skinny hole" I think it will be located further back, very near the indicator bulb wiring. Probably can't get at it without taking the whole assembly out.
*But of course the electronic adjuster on it's own will only lower the beam, not make it higher.
Doh, I was wrong.
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The pics posted in post #1 show the geography of various components (battery, washer bottle etc) to be different to my 08 model.
Regardless, I believe this proves that the manufacturer always meant for bulb replacement (etc) to be done with the whole headlamp unit off the car. As mentioned previously, this is achieved by removing the 3 10mm bolts holding the units in place.
Now, I know folk have said that it feels as if extracting the unit would scratch the bodywork, and I've had mine out 4 times and felt the same, but no scratches ensue. Sure, it's tough "jiggling" the units out of their housing, and getting them back in "feels" as if you'd cause damage, but I've not experienced or caused any.
The pics in all the related headlamp/bulb threads show the headlamp units to be similar in mounting, so I presume they are similar in dismounting.
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The pics posted in post #1 show the geography of various components (battery, washer bottle etc) to be different to my 08 model.
Regardless, I believe this proves that the manufacturer always meant for bulb replacement (etc) to be done with the whole headlamp unit off the car. As mentioned previously, this is achieved by removing the 3 10mm bolts holding the units in place.
Now, I know folk have said that it feels as if extracting the unit would scratch the bodywork, and I've had mine out 4 times and felt the same, but no scratches ensue. Sure, it's tough "jiggling" the units out of their housing, and getting them back in "feels" as if you'd cause damage, but I've not experienced or caused any.
The pics in all the related headlamp/bulb threads show the headlamp units to be similar in mounting, so I presume they are similar in dismounting.
I agree, but in practice I just could not get the lower lip/seam of the lamp housing to come up an over the bumper. I pressed down on the bumper a lot, but still with no joy. I even took the top radiator support off. Maybe I just didn't have the knack. I might be braver when the car is not quite so new!
Clearly they designed the guides in the back of the lamp so you could adjust the angles with the light housing in place, but then they added the electric adjusters which foobared it all up.
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I found the easiest way to overcome the bumper issue was to use the lamp housing itself... by using more forwards & downwards force on the back of the housing made the front tilt up sufficiently to be able to apply increased forwards pressure and clear the spigot (which aligns the housing into the wing) and the bumper.
Maybe I'll do an actual video...
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I found it hard to pull out the headlight. Thought all the time that will scratch the bumper, so gave up and changed the bulb removing the battery
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I replaced my high and low beam with the Phillips extreme (plus 80).
I found the easiest way to change the globes was to remove the battery and on the other side (dirvers side for the Aus version) remove the small relay box simply by unclipping it from the bracket- no other removals were required, had no need to take the headlight housing out and wouldnt recommend it to anyone as its not necessary.
As for headlight adjustment- my car was aimed very low from the factory so i had to lift it, i found you can do the drivers side by hand, the other side i used a flat head screwdriver and moved it click at a time.
Now i'm trying to find if anyone makes a fog light globe upgrade (H27) ??? Phillips incorrectly listed the H8 - its similar to the H27 but wont fit. Anyone know of H27 upgrade ???
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I replaced my high and low beam with the Phillips extreme (plus 80).
These make quite a big difference (but be warned they don't last as long - their rating is something like 400 hours versus 1200 for the originals I think. I have replaced 2 sets in about 18 months (the first lot were replaced under warranty as they went in no time)
I have gone back to the originals but the low beam is lousy now so think i will have to get another set next time they are on special :rolleyes:
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Now i'm trying to find if anyone makes a fog light globe upgrade (H27) ??? Phillips incorrectly listed the H8 - its similar to the H27 but wont fit. Anyone know of H27 upgrade ???
Try searching for "881" bulbs. It is quite tricky to find brighter/bluer versions.
Here is a thread about mine
https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,4705.msg48539.html#msg48539
Post #3 tells you where I got them in the UK. I think maybe this dealer ships to other countries, but I didn't check.
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Hi Lorian.
I have today tried to change all my standard bulbs by following the pictures but have had to give up following your instructions. I believe it is easy enough on the the side the battery is on by just disconnecting it as you suggest.
However, on the drivers side I just cannot fathom a way to do it. You see, my car is a 2010 model but on the drivers side directly behind the bulb connections, there is the washer bottle and also the radiator coolant bottle which I don't believe can be disconnected before replacing the bulbs. Am I correct in this assumption? I have given up for the day until I get confirmation I am doing the right thing. As your post was in 2009,perhaps the design on my car has been changed since then? :evil: :evil:
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Can you take a picture from above and post it up please?
I didn't have to remove the washer bottle or the radiator expansion tank.
On mine on the side the washer bottle filler neck is really does get in the way, but it's possible to work around it. I think i said in one of the follow up posts life ie easier on this side if you have a long node pair of pliers with which to place the bulb.
I don't have a radiator expansion bottle right behind the light - it's behind the alarm horn a couple of inches further back. but a few of these items move around depending on which engine you have.
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Thanks Lorian.
I can't take a photo now as it is dark outside. I'll try and get one tomorrow and post asap but from your description and looking at mine, I think they have made design changes and I may have to take the headlight unit out to resolve. My coolant resevoir is directly behing the light units. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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Thanks Lorian.
I can't take a photo now as it is dark outside. I'll try and get one tomorrow and post asap but from your description and looking at mine, I think they have made design changes and I may have to take the headlight unit out to resolve. My coolant resevoir is directly behing the light units. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
No flash?
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I'll reiterate what I've said all along.
Hyundai have secured the headlamp units with just 3 easy-to-remove 10mm bolts. This is to facilitate simple removal for bulb replacement.
You! will! not! damage! your! paintwork! removing! the! headlamp! units!
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Lorian - No flash?
It's Saturday [ Drinking Day] so never thought about it :-[ :-[ :-[
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Shambles,
You! will! not! damage! your! paintwork! removing! the! headlamp! units!
YOU SOUND ANGRY MATE :-[ :-[ :-[
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YOU SOUND ANGRY MATE :-[ :-[ :-[
Not at all. It really is so simple to remove the units.
If you took your i30 to Halfords, who offer to replace your bulb for you [included in the price of the bulb], that's what they would do.
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I guess it is all about confidence. I'm sure [If I do it] once, I'll be able to recommend the same route to others. You make it sound so easy so I'm going to give it a try. I will however, post some pics of my coolant resevoir so that Lorrian can compare ..........
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Lorian - Here are the photos of my coolant resevoir behind my bulbs- Hope they help ........
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff504/trev012/050.jpg)
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff504/trev012/049.jpg)
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff504/trev012/048.jpg)
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff504/trev012/047.jpg)
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff504/trev012/046.jpg)
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff504/trev012/045.jpg)
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff504/trev012/044.jpg)
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff504/trev012/042.jpg)
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I can see your problem.
Different layout to mine. The coolant bottle is further back by the hood switch/horn (my horn is in front of the radiator) and the washer bottle is in the area where your coolant bottle is so I've got room.
On the i10 they have to remove the bumper to get at the unit. This may be the option here.
Or can you loosen the nut above the light fitting and drop the light forward to get at it.
I'd be asking the service manager at the dealers for advice.
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I can see your problem.
Different layout to mine. The coolant bottle is further back by the hood switch/horn (my horn is in front of the radiator) and the washer bottle is in the area where your coolant bottle is so I've got room.
On the i10 they have to remove the bumper to get at the unit. This may be the option here.
Or can you loosen the nut above the light fitting and drop the light forward to get at it.
I'd be asking the service manager at the dealers for advice.
Thanks eye30 - The last thing I want to do is drop the bumper JUST to replace the bulbs but I do appreciate you having a look for me. I will ask the service manager if there is an easier way or failing that, I will attempt to take the headlight unit out. I really can't understand just why they make simple things so difficult to do :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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Yup, different to mine too. It could be because its a petrol. You'd need tiny fingers to do it my way in your car. I think you'd have to do it the "proper" way and take the light out (good luck!)
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Yup, different to mine too. It could be because its a petrol. You'd need tiny fingers to do it my way in your car. I think you'd have to do it the "proper" way and take the light out (good luck!)
That's what I was worried about :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
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I'll reiterate what I've said all along.
Hyundai have secured the headlamp units with just 3 easy-to-remove 10mm bolts. This is to facilitate simple removal for bulb replacement.
You! will! not! damage! your! paintwork! removing! the! headlamp! units!
Shambles. Having seen the photos of my engine bay above, are you still convinced the 2010 models still only have 3x10mm bolts to remove ?
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Yes. Two obvious ones; one not so obvious
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/ShamblesX/045.jpg)
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Having removed the 3 bolts on both MY2009 and MY2010 1.4 petrol models I could not get the headlights to move more than about 10mm forward. So I unbolted the expansion tank and just moved it to the side and did it that way. The only problem is on the passenger side behind the battery. Trying to get the bulb(s) to seat back in the guide and close the clips. A real pain :'(
Also remember that if you touch the bulbs you will need to clean off all marks as they will not last long :lol:
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After the initial 10mm forwards, mine need to be angled upwards (pressing gently down at the rear) then lifted clear. There is resistance but it's easily overcome
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Oh dear, had a low (dipped) beam nightbreaker H7 fail this evening. That's just 13 months service. They are on a lot because I use autolights, but still a little disappointing.
Things seem to have moved on only slowly in the bulb field (amsterdam?) since last year. Now I'm faced with the choice of:
Nightbreaker +90% at £13.50 or
Nightbreaker PLUS +90% at £15.00 - I think the plus means they are supposed to last a bit longer
Philips x-treme +100% at £30 (!)
These are all ebay prices delivered, elsewhere they are all much more.
Last year I didn't like the philips extreme +80%, as they were a bit yellow, however they are still going strong in our other car. Philip's new brighter bulb is supposed to be whiter/bluer. but at twice the price...........
....Well I pondered for a while and bought the Nightbreaker Pluses, and think I'll replace both as a matched pair.
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I went through 2 pairs of those H7 Osrams, each pair around the £14.70 mark from eBay.
I have to say I was very disappointed with their lifespan, and I don't use autolights.
I'm back on the factory supplied units; very yellow, but with filaments intact.
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We'll see if the "pluses" are any better. They do say "Improved life" on the box.
I'd have liked to try the new philips but the price is crazy.
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My Philips Blue Vision are still okay, but not quite 12 months old yet.
Just wondering what Auto lights does compared to the standard setup.
If I leave my headlights on, then stop the engine, the head lights go out, but not the side. The side only go off when I open the door. When getting back in, before I actually put the key into the ignition barrel, but the key is right next to it, the side lights come on. When I turn the key the head lights come on, then slightly dim when the engine turns over to start. I don't do that as standard practice, but that's what happens if left on in the head light position.
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Hi All,
If like me you were unsure if Shamble's solution works :sweating:, please believe me it does. I was very reluctant to take the whole unit out but once done, it really was so simple. So much so, I've now taken them both off twice. However, the resuls of changing the bulbs don't seem to have made such a great difference to the stock bulbs the car came with originally. They're still a bit yellow.
Many, many thanks Shambles :goodjob: :goodjob:
Now, does anybody know how to replace the old yellow interior bulbs :eek: :eek: :eek:
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Pretty much the same, but with auto if it gets a bit dull (or dark) the headlights come on automatically. This time of year they are on a lot.
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Now, does anybody know how to replace the old yellow interior bulbs :eek: :eek: :eek:
Search and ye will find.
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My car config is the same as yours Trev. The coolant res just has 2 bolts fixing it. 1 into the side of the inner wing(well, engine bay), and the other below it(by the engine belt). If you remove those bolts, the res will move out of the way as its connected via a rubber hose.
As regards the washer bottle neck, you just have to twist and undo the headlight bulb cover and slide it out past the washer bottle neck. The neck will move just enough with a bit of pressure to get the cover out. Note: doing it that way requires small hands. I found the bigest problem is trying to undo the bulb clips, then after replacing the bulb, trying to put the clips back.
I tried several times to remove the whole units from the car, but could not get them to move at all. Hence that's why I did them that way.
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Pretty much the same, but with auto if it gets a bit dull (or dark) the headlights come on automatically. This time of year they are on a lot.
Total brain fade. My Volvo C30 does that.
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I found a description of what the "plus" in nightbreakerplus means:
1. Gold plated connectors. Bling nice.
2. Up to 50% improved lifetime. "The new improved filament design and developements in the gas filling have increased the lifetime of nighbreaker plus for piece of mind motoring."
Oh well, sounds promising, I'll let you know if the marketing blurb was right in abbout October 2012. Of Course they might out-last me.
One thing I forgot to mention, I've noticed driving in the dark a lot recently that the projector dipped/low beam and the nightbreakers make for awesome road-side sign illumination, the reflections are almost too bright at times.
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2. Up to 50% improved lifetime. "The new improved filament design and devlopements in the gas filling have increased the lifetime of nighbreaker plus for piece of mind motoring.
What was/is the expected life of a "normal" one for them to make this claim and has it been verified, I wonder?
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They never said, but my benchmark is the 13 months I've had from mine. If these plus versions fail to last 19 months I'll ask for my money back :mrgreen:
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Keep us posted Lorian.. But i really do hope you outlast them... :goodjob:
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Nice suprise the ebay seller was good and they turned up this morning. They are the plus model. They have gold contacts and a different box but otherwise even on close inspection they ook like the old ones.
I managed to pull the headlights out and fitted them (more about that in my old bulb thread) so we'll see how they go.
<edit: I merged my two blulb threads together>
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Ok my new bulbs arrived today, and I managed to get the lights out and and replaced both sides in about 10 minutes.
The reason I couldn't get the lights out when the car was new were:
1. The car was new, so I wasnt using as much pressure as required
2. I thought the lights were catching along the top of the bumper, but the problem was atually a kind of curved lip on the bottom of the headlights being caught. pressing in the right place gets this out
I'll see if I can find a pic to show what was catching.
Oh and while I had the lights out I noticed some muck inside the wings being thrown up from a couple of holes around the bolts in the wheel arch liner. Nothing broken, just bad design around the catch. So I cleaned out the muck (yes snowcherry I'm anal) and sealed the holes with a little clear silicone sealer before putting the lights back. If you take the units out the holes are obvious.
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:-[ I was going to go downstairs and check out these holes until I remembered I haven't got mine any more :rofl:
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:-[ I was going to go downstairs and check out these holes until I remembered I haven't got mine any more :rofl:
Could have been worse. You could have gone down and pulled the headlights out of the Camry. :rolleyes:
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Well, I took the plunge and decided to order a set of H1 & H7 Osram Nightbreaker Plus bulbs off eBay.
Fingers crossed they arrive safely and I don't have too much trouble installing them. I'll keep you all posted.... :cool:
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Fortunately Trish seldom drives at night (poor night vision) as the CW lights as as bad as the CRDi ones were.. (average at best)
I usually take her any where she wants to go at night and the Hybrids lights are a lot better .. :goodjob:
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Well, I have now changed my H7 bulbs twice and the H1's once and I still cannot get the brightness I am looking for. They are bog standard 55w bulbs but I have seen on Fleebay some 100w off road bulbs, which are obviously much brighter.
Possibly a silly question here but is it ok to put these 100w bulbs in or will they start blowing fuses elsewhere?
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I forget what fuse is in there, but I wouldn't be chancing my wiring with 100w bulbs. They are not legal either. Assuming the problem you have is with dipped beam a small tweak upwards (within the legal limit of course) is what you seek.
Before the nightbreakers and a small tweek upwards I was not at all happy. With these two changes my lights are pretty good.
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Just thought I would put my experience re replacing a headlamp bulb in my Hyundai i30 Diesel (2009/10)
It is not practical to change the nearside headlamp bulb on my vehicle without resorting to headlamp cluster removal. After seeking advice from my local dealer (remove the bumper I was told at one point) I decided to follow advice found on this site. I tried removing the headlamp before going to dealer for advice but found that after removing the three securing bolts the assembly would not come away freely.
This is how I tackled the job.
1) Disconnect battery (+ve first) undo single securing screw lift battery from car. The only downside to removing battery is that you have to re-set your presets on the radio. This took me as long as changing the bulb.
2) Disconnect two power cables from rear of headlamp. These are held in place with usual clip arrangement.
3) Remove three headlamp securing screws.
4) With battery removed you can get hold of the headlamp, making it easier to Manoeuvre out of rear securing clip and out of positioning point in wing.
5) With cluster out it is straight forward to unscrew cap, pull of electrical plug, un-clip retainer and change bulb. Replace clip, plug and cap.
6) Position cluster to line up with rear clip and Manoeuvre in to place. A little careful manipulation and it pops in place.
7) Replace connectors to rear and secure in place with the three securing screws.
8) Replace battery (-ve first) - set presets on radio.
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I forget what fuse is in there, but I wouldn't be chancing my wiring with 100w bulbs. They are not legal either. Assuming the problem you have is with dipped beam a small tweak upwards (within the legal limit of course) is what you seek.
Before the nightbreakers and a small tweek upwards I was not at all happy. With these two changes my lights are pretty good.
My problem was with the dipped/high beam distance cover which were really awful but after following the tips for adjustment tweeks ..... I'm completely happy with them now ... admittingly on my first attempt I did cause a few oncoming cars a little vision problem :-[ for a short while but I soon fixed that and my headlights are as good now as any car I've driven.
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Well, I have now changed my H7 bulbs twice and the H1's once and I still cannot get the brightness I am looking for. They are bog standard 55w bulbs but I have seen on Fleebay some 100w off road bulbs, which are obviously much brighter.
Possibly a silly question here but is it ok to put these 100w bulbs in or will they start blowing fuses elsewhere?
I did this with my Holden Barina (Suzuki Swift). Originally I did the right thing and used a relay but for whatever reason this wasn't successful and I ended up putting 100/80w H4 Globes straight in (minus the relay) and never had a moments trouble. :D
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Just thought I would put my experience re replacing a headlamp bulb in my Hyundai i30 Diesel (2009/10)
It is not practical to change the nearside headlamp bulb on my vehicle without resorting to headlamp cluster removal. After seeking advice from my local dealer (remove the bumper I was told at one point) I decided to follow advice found on this site. I tried removing the headlamp before going to dealer for advice but found that after removing the three securing bolts the assembly would not come away freely.
This is how I tackled the job.
1) Disconnect battery (+ve first) undo single securing screw lift battery from car. The only downside to removing battery is that you have to re-set your presets on the radio.
8) Replace battery (-ve first) - set presets on radio.
Think you should also reset the steering :eek: :sweating:
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Reset Steering?
More info please!
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Pic re Headlamp Bulbs 1
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Pic 2
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Pic 3
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Pic 4
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Pic 5
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Pic 6
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Pic 7
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Reset Steering?
More info please!
Need to recalibrate the torque sensor when the battery has been removed (also resets the EPS indicator).
Turn power on. Steer 3/4 left then 3/4 right then turn the power off and back on.
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Welcome Paul..
Thanks for going to the trouble of taking and narrating photos (Pix 5 is missing) but can you please read the post by Bumpkin about avoiding attachments and using a link to a photo hosting site (in the Welcome tread) Cheers.. Dazz
P.S. Saves some bandwidth and avoids risk of loss in event of a "hiccup" on the site..
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Well, I took the plunge and decided to order a set of H1 & H7 Osram Nightbreaker Plus bulbs off eBay.
Fingers crossed they arrive safely and I don't have too much trouble installing them. I'll keep you all posted.... :cool:
Well, my globes turned up from the UK last week and today I decided to have a go at fitting them.....
All I can say is I don't know what people have been worried about, I had the drivers side cluster out, both H1 & H7 globes installed and then back in the car in about 12 minutes.....
The passenger side was done even quicker.... :goodjob:
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I think its a bit more of a squeeze if you have the black headlights.
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I think its a bit more of a squeeze if you have the black headlights.
Although Russ can be a bit "heavy handed" that probably helps... :whistler:
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Are you trying to confuse me, Lorian? How does colour make it harder to remove? :eek:
And you just get back in your box, Daz. :P
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Actually...didn't have to get heavy handed at all. Once the bolts were out, the cluster was loose, no violence required at all...... :D
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If you grab the body of the light with one hand and the lens part with the other and give them a firm twist up at the front they slip up and out over the front bumper..Easy Peasy :D (the secret is not to be too gentle)
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Yep, as you say, easy peasy..... :goodjob:
Actually, I might have to go get a thick shake from Maccas, just to make sure the lights are workin'...... :winker:
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let us know how good or bad they are Russ. :goodjob:
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Back again....
Bit hard to tell as there is still a fair amount of traffic on the roads.... ???
Thick shake was nice, but.... :D
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Sounded like a good idea.. I like them but probably wouldn't like me at this time of the night :'(
and about 16km return drive from here.. at 11 pm (don't think so .. too comfy)
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:whsaid:
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It's about a 24k round trip for me....
Works out just right, I'm having my last slurp as I pull up in my driveway.... :D
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Are you trying to confuse me, Lorian? How does colour make it harder to remove? :eek:
I think maybe the black ones have a bigger lip on the bottom (I didn't measure it) becuase it's only folk with the black ones that seem to ever have problems. I did remove mine completely a couple of weeks ago to re-replace the bulbs, and sure it doesnt take long, but it did take a reasonable amount of force.
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Oh ok.... :neutral:
I was quite surprised mine were quite loose once I removed the bolts. It was almost as if the headlights had been out before.....Then again, they may have been as I had headlight skins fitted as part of the deal when I bought the car. Can't really imagine why they'd need to remove the lights to do that though... :-\
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Well, I took the plunge and decided to order a set of H1 & H7 Osram Nightbreaker Plus bulbs off eBay.
Fingers crossed they arrive safely and I don't have too much trouble installing them. I'll keep you all posted.... :cool:
Well, my globes turned up from the UK last week and today I decided to have a go at fitting them.....
All I can say is I don't know what people have been worried about, I had the drivers side cluster out, both H1 & H7 globes installed and then back in the car in about 12 minutes.....
The passenger side was done even quicker.... :goodjob:
Well, it's now been exactly 12 months since I fitted the Osram Nightbreaker Plus Globes and, touch wood, I haven't had any trouble with them blowing.
I've happy with the performance and their longitivity so I'm more than happy to recommend them.... :goodjob:
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Well, it's now been exactly 12 months since I fitted the Osram Nightbreaker Plus Globes and, touch wood, I haven't had any trouble with them blowing.
I've happy with the performance and their longitivity so I'm more than happy to recommend them.... :goodjob:
Hmm, it is totally different to what I have heard from Russian Osram Nightbreaker owners (3 months life time on average)
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Well, it's now been exactly 12 months since I fitted the Osram Nightbreaker Plus Globes and, touch wood, I haven't had any trouble with them blowing.
I've happy with the performance and their longitivity so I'm more than happy to recommend them.... :goodjob:
Hmm, it is totally different to what I have heard from Russian Osram Nightbreaker owners (3 months life time on average)
Mine lasted 2-3 months too, and they were some "Plus" series, which should last longer, then "ordinary" NightBreaker bulbs..
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Mine lasted 2-3 months too, and they were some "Plus" series, which should last longer, then "ordinary" NightBreaker bulbs..
:whsaid:
Poor showing from Osram, and they weren't cheap either :fum:
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Mine lasted 2-3 months too, and they were some "Plus" series, which should last longer, then "ordinary" NightBreaker bulbs..
:whsaid:
Poor showing from Osram, and they weren't cheap either :fum:
does osram have a warranty? :idea: :winker:
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My pluses have been in over a year too, working fine.
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You don't get something for nothing. Bulb life and brightness is related to the diameter of the filament. The thinner the filament the brighter the light and the shorter the life. The gas fill is mainly to preserve the filament not to improve the light per se.
If headlights could be genuinely brighter without affecting the lifetime don't you think vehicle manufacturers would use them instead of developing HID lamps?
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Poor showing from Osram, and they weren't cheap either :fum:
We have to take into account that the CRDi has a cloud over it as far as globe longevity goes :whistler: Hopefully this will be sorted in the 2012 model (fingers crossed)
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my 2 i30s are three years old and Ive only changed one low beam bulb in my hatch,both cars still run the factory bulbs. :winker: but brake light bulbs in the cw,now that's a different story. :wacko: :faint:
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my 2 i30s are three years old and Ive only changed one low beam bulb in my hatch,both cars still run the factory bulbs. :winker: but brake light bulbs in the cw,now that's a different story. :wacko: :faint:
I must check Trish's CW brake lights (although they should have been checked at the 12 months service in January)
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my 2 i30s are three years old and Ive only changed one low beam bulb in my hatch,both cars still run the factory bulbs. :winker: but brake light bulbs in the cw,now that's a different story. :wacko: :faint:
I must check Trish's CW brake lights (although they should have been checked at the 12 months service in January)
i've replaced 6 in 3 years. :disapp: :mad:
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I checked Trish's they are fine :happydance:
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I checked Trish's they are fine :happydance:
:sweating: :goodjob2: :goodjob: :mrgreen:
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I do a lot of night driving so I'm pretty happy to have made it to the 12 month mark with these Osrams, especially in light of the trouble some have had with the diesel and standard globes....
What may have helped is I always start the engine with the headlights off...... :)
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I do a lot of night driving so I'm pretty happy to have made it to the 12 month mark with these Osrams, especially in light of the trouble some have had with the diesel and standard globes....
What may have helped is I always start the engine with the headlights off...... :)
I have long suspected that is the secret :goodjob:
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I do a lot of night driving so I'm pretty happy to have made it to the 12 month mark with these Osrams, especially in light of the trouble some have had with the diesel and standard globes....
What may have helped is I always start the engine with the headlights off...... :)
we do the same thing Russ,the one that blew on my hatch was due to the lights being switched on when i started the car. :-[:disapp:
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Hy there Drivers.
Yes it´s hard to fight with the bulbs if they are burnt.
As i asked at the Garage for that problem, they told me that the i30 is a called "Lampenfresser" which means it´s a "lampeater".
I changed a few times my driving lights between the last fifteen month. so i know about that prob with the bulbs.
now i fitted a Spike killer on my battery because the peaks of the lightmachine (generator) can send pulses on switched on demands.
the varistor inside the box should eleminate? :undecided: the peaks.
I try it out the next few month and report to you.
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Hy there Drivers.
Yes it´s hard to fight with the bulbs if they are burnt.
As i asked at the Garage for that problem, they told me that the i30 is a called "Lampenfresser" which means it´s a "lampeater".
I changed a few times my driving lights between the last fifteen month. so i know about that prob with the bulbs.
now i fitted a Spike killer on my battery because the peaks of the lightmachine (generator) can send pulses on switched on demands.
the varistor inside the box should eleminate? :undecided: the peaks.
I try it out the next few month and report to you.
Daken76: That would be great.
In case it really expands the life time of the bulbs, please write more about it. How it works, how it looks, where can we buy it and how to install it. My father in law is changing the bulbs every 2 months and is getting sick of it frankly speaking.. That's actually one of the rare things that he doesn't like about i30 :rolleyes:
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accim:
The Overvoltage Protection is factured by Kemo.
Take a look at www.kemo-electronic.eu to find out more about it. ;)
You just screw it between the both poles of your battery. It doesn´t need current if the car stands still. It just surpresses constantly all voltage spikes in the supply system of the motor vehicles its used in.
Prevertion of damage tot the sensitive supply sistem electronics through voltage spikes in the supply sys. :winker:
Greetings to Slovenia.
Steve
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In case it really expands the life time of the bulbs, please write more about it. How it works, how it looks, where can we buy it and how to install it. My father in law is changing the bulbs every 2 months and is getting sick of it frankly speaking.. That's actually one of the rare things that he doesn't like about i30 :rolleyes:
Does he start his car with the lights on accim? If he does slap his bottom and tell him to stop it.. :whistler:
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Holding on firmly to a pencil (wood)
At almost 4 years old & with 29,000 miles plus on the clock my petrol version is still on its original bulbs. Does the Auto-lights system help preserve them I wonder?
My lights are always on... but on Auto... plus the DRL's I have fitted enable me to drive more without headlights on... but I make a judgement call on when full lighting is needed.
Or are the petrol versions just not such voracious bulb-eaters?
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Or are the petrol versions just not such voracious bulb-eaters?
Don't know myself as mine left original bulb had lived for 1.5 year (2.5 years since car's production) or 32000 km with lights always on when it died, then I decided to change both bulbs
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Or are the petrol versions just not such voracious bulb-eaters?
I assume the more "powerful" battery/alternator set-up required for a diesel engine puts more strain on the globes :confused:
The CRDi does seem far more prone to headlight globe failure....
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Here's a thought I've been pondering on.
Most people would accept that electronic devices are sensitive instruments with circuit connections finer than a human hair. Why is it that there are no reports of voltage spike damage to these devices but a robust high temperature wire filament is failing on a regular basis in some cars :question:
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Yeah, go figure :lol:
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Lets not forget the diesel engines front end vibration element.
And is a tailgate on an estate heavier than a boot-lid on a hatchback?
Slamming those down might explain the rear bulb failures on estates if so, as in theory at least, you might expect the tailgate of an estate to get more use than a hatchback rear door?
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Here's a thought I've been pondering on.
Most people would accept that electronic devices are sensitive instruments with circuit connections finer than a human hair. Why is it that there are no reports of voltage spike damage to these devices but a robust high temperature wire filament is failing on a regular basis in some cars :question:
I think the answer to this is simply that the current required for the electronics is so relatively little that filtering and regulating their supply is simple. No voltage spikes should ever reach them.
Bright filaments on the other hand are surprisingly fragile. It doesn't help that they have a much lower resistance when cold and the in-rush current when first powered will be many times that when hot. It would be my belief that they pop when turned on and probably more so if that coincides with cranking the engine which I suspect produces spikes from the starter motor.
The general advice to start the engine with the lights off is good advice I think.
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Just emphasising that my problem with headlight blowouts in a CRDi occurs even though I don't leave my headlights in the ON position all the time, and so they are OFF when car is started.
If you have a CRDi there is a known issue that Hyundai can fix.
4 months with no headlights blown after 10 in 9 months, TOUCH WOOD.
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drugginst
How did Hy fix the problem, did they explain to you at all :question:
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Search for headlight blown or posts by me on the forum and you will see an explanation. The problem was fixed in November 2011 and posts were put up around that time.
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Found it, thanks :goodjob2:
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Found it, thanks :goodjob2:
You might have linked. Now I've got to search!
With over 55 years driving I have never ever changed a headlamp bulb and only changed two or three other bulbs.
I noticed the fog lamp bulbs in the i30 were Phillips Germany when I fitted the leds.
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Searching is good for you, however, to cut a long story short, HY said it was due to high resistance in the earth side of the circuit. So power is ok but the connection of the housing to the chassis is poor (somewhere). On that basis, If my car was blowing bulbs frequently, I would put my own earth wire in to fix the problem.
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Searching is good for you, however, to cut a long story short, HY said it was due to high resistance in the earth side of the circuit. So power is ok but the connection of the housing to the chassis is poor (somewhere). On that basis, If my car was blowing bulbs frequently, I would put my own earth wire in to fix the problem.
I'm having trouble accepting their explanation. :confused: While it's not clear exactly where the high resistance from the poor earth is inserted, any extra resistance into the head lamp circuit can only reduce the current. For the light to blow it must have an increased current whether that be continuous, momentarily or transiently it must by definition raise the temperature to the point where the filament fuses.
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I'm just echoing the explanation from Hy. Apparently, after resolving the high resistance, the blown light problem ceased. :neutral:
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I'm not doubting what you were told... just whether it was the truth and if it was, how it fixed it.
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You need to ask Druggist, as he was the original recipient of this information.
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Oops, I should have searched for the original thread. :-[
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That's ok, Could it be that the high resistance is intermittent and when the resistance goes "low" that blows the bulb. :question:
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That's ok, Could it be that the high resistance is intermittent and when the resistance goes "low" that blows the bulb. :question:
No. The resistance can't go too low. That's why I queried the explanation given. It sounds like technobabble to me. :wink:
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My pluses have been in over a year too, working fine.
Didn't last much over a year though, as one blew yesterday (dipped beam). I therefore wouldn't recommend nightbreakers any longer.
Only good thing is now I can change bulbls with no tools and without really looking, only took 3 minutes, a big difference to when I first tried when the car was new.
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Shambles,
You! will! not! damage! your! paintwork! removing! the! headlamp! units!
YOU SOUND ANGRY MATE :-[ :-[ :-[
Maybe not, but You! Will! Damage! Your! headlight! Glass! by scratching it, if you are not forensically careful. Because there's a sharp piece of metal pointing downwards which catches the headlight glass housing on the outer top corner, this is designed to scratch your glass (which seems to be soft - does metal normally easily scratch glass?)
I know 'cos I read the quoted post and even being aware & careful, my attention was on the opposite corner of the HL before I noticed the scratch.
I changed both sides' bulbs today as we are having a very rare non-rainy day here in the UK.
The RH (as seen from drivers seat) side is really easy as the washer bottle comes off in 2 mins. But the LH side is a bitch and even were the battery out, access seems more cramped than the other side.
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Maybe not, but You! Will! Damage! Your! headlight! Glass! by scratching it, if you are not forensically careful. Because there's a sharp piece of metal pointing downwards which catches the headlight glass housing on the outer top corner, this is designed to scratch your glass (which seems to be soft - does metal normally easily scratch glass?)
The lamps are plastic not glass and, yes, will be scratched quite easily.
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I've ripped my headlights out a squillion times and never had an issue with scratching them....and I'm certainly not "forensically careful".... :undecided:
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:whsaid: though my count of headlamp extractions is somewhat less than a squillion
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I may have exaggerated just a whisker.... :-[ :lol:
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Like my mum used to say, "If I've told you once I've told you a million times - DON'T EXAGGERATE!"
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Te 2-nd time i remove my headlights i did scratch in the same sharp metal piece ....
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2 days ago I just replaced the headlight bulb for my 2009 diesel Wagon.
what I did was :
unscrew the 3 screws (2 on the top , 1 inside )
detach the power cable for headlight module.
then I unmounted the whole headlight module out of my car easily~
after replaced the bulb, remount it , connect the power cable and 3 screws
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As coolbzk says, it really is a simple job to remove and replace the headlight assembly.
Well done, coolbzk :goodjob2: :Agoodjob:
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:wss:
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I am so frustrated with bulbs, i cant do it myself and going to a service becouse of this takes too many time and especially money!
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:disapp:
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I am so frustrated with bulbs, i cant do it myself and going to a service becouse of this takes too many time and especially money!
Ogi the bulbs are totally do-able, after the first time I was able to change all my bulbs in about 15 - 20 minutes.
What stops you being able to change yours?
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Do-able my ass. :rofl:
I can't imagine harder way for changing bulbs than on i30, i need to like dismount half of the car for changing a bulb !???
I tried to pull the headlight out but i coudn't do it becouse it was stuck, it wouldnt get out... i need to go to a Hyundai mechanic to change a bulb, how stupid is that !?
What if a bulb dies somewhere on the road in the middle of nowhere, in the night !???
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Time for a pictorial on changing light bulbs, both sides, I think. :idea:
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Ogi, I've done it a lot!
Because I wanted to, never needed to by the roadside.
So save your ass for some other deserving person.
The light units come out if you do it correctly.
They come out very easily on the FD for sure!
I could and did change all bulbs in both lights in about 30mins. :snigger:
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:whsaid: