[joesama]

Few month ago, our 2013 i30 GD started to produce knocking noise from the steering wheel.
The symptoms are
- only happens when turning the steering wheel left or right as if needing to park at stationary, or at very low speed. (under 5km/hr)
- feels like clicking/ knocking from just behind the steering wheel?

So after doing some extensive research, I thought that the rubber coupling in the electric motor is the problem.
Got the part and replaced via local mechanic.. His advised that the original coupling did not have any damage when he opened it up.
Therefore, still the same symptom.

Was than advised that the next logical step is to replace the lower joint assy universal shaft..
This was replaced. Unfortunately its still got the same symptoms.

His now advised me that it looks like the entire steering column will probably need to be replaced.

I'm just disappointed at this stage that I can't find a solution to this.
I'm looking to bring the car into the dealer to see what they think, but I'm suspecting that they will charge me an arm and leg for it.

I would like to ask, 2 other things that I can see is that,

Can a faulty clock spring produce this? (not likely as all the buttons and horn is working)
Or... could it be faulty Steering motor all together?

I've also seen that on another post that steering angle sensor could be the issue? But this would have produced an ENG check light? I have none.

[Aye30]

Impressive, to not have any wear on the 10 year old coupler, which is know to cause these symptoms. It was a easy for me to remove the column and its connectors,  the hard part of getting at the motor, behind all of the bracketry took most of my time.  I also worked very cautiously to avoid any misalignment. How much did your mechanic charge for doing the inspection?
Perhaps isolating power to the EPS and rolling the car on a gentle slope, while turning the wheel back and forth would tell if it is the motor. The steering column is directly connected to the wheels via gears and tie rods, the motor assists the force needed, the coupler cushions the metal on metal slap when the SAS determines the wheel needs a push in the other direction. So removing power, will let you know if it is mechanical or EPS motor and coupler. Just remember with the engine off and no power to the EPS ever thing will be hard to move, including the brake pedal ( very important to have gentle slope and plenty of room.)

[joesama]

Thanks for the reply.

My mechanic charged me AUD 370 to inspect and change the coupler to the new one regardless.
And AUD 150 to change the shaft excluding the part.

Okay. So to try your suggestion, which makes perfect sense by the way, just put the car on "ON" and roll it down while turning the wheels to see if it makes the same symptoms.

As far as I'm concerned, power steering do not get the power unless the car has started.

[joesama]

So I am beyond pissed off at this moment.

Doing more study on how the i30 Electric steering system works.. there was really nothing much to it.
Its generally Steering Column --> Electric power steering motor ---> and the shaft that connects directly to the Steering rack below.

Having this in mind, I thought that the last possible part that maybe stuff was the Electric motor it self.
So I've spent another 360 AUD for this part and decided to tackle the job myself this time around.

Removing all the parts, surprise surprise... when I separated the the Electric motor from the column, the suspected Coupling that I originally asked the Mechanic to replace was not removed. Just have a look at this pix.

i30-GD-Steering-Column hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
i30-GD-Steering-Wheel-Motor-Assy hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
i30-GD-Electric-motor-coupler hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB

To add to the insult, I tackled this on late Saturday morning, meaning none of the Hyundai or Kia Parts departments were open in Australia.
How frustrating that the car became unserviceable until Monday.

Come Monday, visited Kia Parts department and bought the coupling for 6.78 AUD.
i30-GD-new-part hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB

Once the Motor and column got cleaned and coupling replaced, the steering knocking 100% disappeared and was fixed once and for all.

Finally, you would not believe this, but the shop I brought it to originally has closed down for good.
Other wise, I would have brought it back to them demanding some money back.

I just felt so scammed that I had to actually go through all this trouble just because someone decided not to do the job properly.
Let alone the financial damage it has caused. A simple 6.78 part just became so expensive buying 2 unnecessary expensive parts.

[Shambles]

What a crock of shite that place is was 

Glad it's sorted and you can start to get some happiness back.

[Aye30]

Any chance of getting your money back on a credit card charge back?

[joesama]

I don't think that is possible.
Anyway.. lesson learned. And perhaps this is one of a reason why I have trust issues with mechanics.

[wbm00]

I don't think that is possible.
Anyway.. lesson learned. And perhaps this is one of a reason why I have trust issues with mechanics.

What makes you think a chargeback isn't possible?