i30 Owners Club

Recent Posts

1
PETROL / ESP light on dash
« Last post by fafer88 6 hours ago »
Hello,
I had problem with my 2012 Hyundai i30 GD, every time I get into 60mph ESP light turns on and stays on till I turn engine off and then after I start it again it's stays off till I get into 60mph.
I read fault codes and I have 1 in ECU P0704 - Clutch switch input malfunction - permanent and 1 in ABS C1520 - Clutch switch - Intermittent. I bought a genuine clutch switch from Hyundai dealer but it didn't cure it. Does anyone knows what is the problem? Do You know if there is TSB for that fault?
cheers
2
DIESEL / Re: Diesel Fuel consumption FAQ
« Last post by VanBelleJean 12 hours ago »
Post a question in the forum and we will take a look.

i bought a second hand I30 1.4 diesel from 2012 Euro 5 to do some tests:

1. On :link: Diesel consumption: Hyundai - i30 - GDH Hatchback - Spritmonitor.de you can follow my attempst.
2. i got 51,14 and 50,64 liters tanking after almost empty based on range
3. Bord computer seems to be incredible correct in l/100 km, range is adapting throug drive style now
4. With a video i could check all 12 dots for consumption in distance, based on 3.6 to 3.4 m/100 km over the distances of over 1400 km between full tanking again

12 dots: 1448 km, 0 km passed,
11 dots: 249,4 km (250 to round up) at 3.6 = 9 liter used = 41 liter left
10 dots: 399,4 km (400 to round up) at 3.6 = 14.5 liter used = 35,5 liter left
9 dots: 483,3 km at 3.5 = 16,9 l used = 33,1 l left
8 dots: 595,9 km at 3.4 = 20,3 l used = 29,7 l left
7 dots: 732,9 km at 3.4 = 24,9 l used = 25,1 l left
THAT IS HALF RESERVOIR: 7 dots!!
6 dots: 810 km at 3.4 = 27,54 l used = 22,4 l left
5 dots: 900 km at 3.4 = 30,6 l used = 19,4 l left
4 dots: 1032.5 km at 3.5 = 36,12 l = 14,8 l left
3 dots: 1099,4 km at 3.5 = 38,5 l = 11,5 l left
2 dots: 1232,3 km at 3.4 = 41,9 l = 8,1 l left
1 dot: 1321,9 km at 3.5 = 46,3 l = 3,7 l left
Starts blinking then when 50 km range drops further and range becomes "---" instead and then you have 1409 km at 3.5 = 49,32 l = 0,7 l left

The error here is that i tanked 50,64 liter diesel at Lukoil sofia, but normally there is a s small loss at tanking,but Lukoil (Jet in Germany and Austria callef, is superior Russian oil by the way, drove probably 2 million of the 3 million kilometers on Lukoil in my life) is quite correct!

i will do later a test to drive completely empty while have a jerrycan with spare diesel on board.

Jean Marc +je
3
3.5 AND 3.61 L/100 KM = 76 TO 65 MPG I30 1.40
On  FB topic I30  i published my efficiency and you can follow it up, because i will do some tests to find maximum consumption in power using the 1.4 diesel as well.

The text, i will copy here too:

<Just an ode to Garage Moyaert with Huyndai I30 2012 Euro 5 1.4 diesel, and immediately my best diesel record ever in economy! 3.61 and 3.50 liters of diesel per 100 km for a total of 2,864 km from Be via Wallonia and NL to Germany where I refueled for Passau (always at Lukoil because their quantities of liters are very correct and the quality of regular summer diesel is very good) to Lukoil Sofia... See details annex and at  :link: Diesel consumption: Hyundai - i30 - GDH Hatchback - Spritmonitor.de also for all details and prices.

Reasons for this success are many: The cubic layout of the cylinder capacity as Renault also did with the R9M engines and then what I felt: 12 to 20% savings with no loss of diesel when changing gears but still driving in 5th and 6th and very long (37 hours of driving apart from rest in two/three days/nights I thought), the small engine capacity, start/stop and search speed with longest range on display thanks to a very good and detailed on-board computer), the choice of correct tires by Garage Moyaert and the perfect maintenance services and a new clutch disc (West Flemish: embréage) and the right choice of oil (even more than normal oil + intervals here for diesel of 30,000 km, ideal for frequent drivers like me) and the very low and perfect aerodynamics of this I30, especially if you drive along with the trucks and past many 80 km/h work zones in Germany and so on, where 1650 RPM in 6th seems optimal. Finally, I drove barefoot so that I had perfect feel for the diesel consumption with my big right toe (pressing the accelerator pedal = consumption).

Perhaps also test in Sofia how much 'maximum' consumption is during sporty driving versus this experiment later, and so that you see that the turbo compression can also deliver high-performance engine performance.

Thx to everyone, also to Luc Devlamynck who I saw there and who will soon have one of the most beautiful EVs for their sunny holidays!

Anyone who has questions is welcome! +you>


And the link to all consumption from
now on is  :link: Diesel consumption: Hyundai - i30 - GDH Hatchback - Spritmonitor.de


With the video there you can even calculate how many liters are used or still there ar every 'dot' of the 12 stripes for the diesel tank.

If you cannot manage, give me a sign and i will do that for you in some Excel table.

Thx, this is a great car!!! Love the sunglasses you can put on top of the driver as well and the variable steering (sport was best setting because i still did not install the cruise control now). +je
4
EXTERIOR / Re: Remove front headlight
« Last post by BrendanP May 11, 2024, 18:39:33 »
Gracias,

So far, I've never had to remove the headlamp from my car which I bought in 2016, as the bulbs can be replaced without taking the headlamp out. On my old FD model I must have taken them out 10 or 15 times to change bulbs, but it's been ok in the last 2-3 years. The headlamp has small plastic pegs that locate in holes in the front wing, it's easy to break those off if you are not careful.
5
Thanks for that, I've uploaded a pic of the damage in question (and definitely going to invest in a dash cam now). It just doesn't make any sense to me how my sensors started malfunctioning out of nowhere whilst I was driving due to this damage. If I had been in a collision, shouldn't the sensors have an immediate reaction (which is basically the whole selling point of these features)?

6
GENERAL / Re: 2010 i30 Windscreen Washer not working
« Last post by Aye30 May 11, 2024, 03:37:56 »
I used to be annoyed at the dealership services, when the would drain my rainx washer fluid and replace it with their own.  I now realise they did this to prevent the sludge build up that occurs when just topping off the reservoir.  Even with clean water and good additives, a slime will build up at the bottom of the tank. to combat this I got some thin nylon water hose ( the type used for plumbing fridges with icemakers or under bench water filters ) and made the end  into a sprayer with a soldering iron and a bit of crimping.  I then fed the spraying end to the bottom of the tank and "pressure washed"  the gunk out with normal tap pressure through the modified sprayer. I run the hose until the water overflowing from the tank neck runs free from the broken up slime chunks.
7
GENERAL / Re: 2010 i30 Windscreen Washer not working
« Last post by BrendanP May 10, 2024, 18:35:34 »
A friend of mine had a Rover 75 and they used to put dish washing liquid in the water instead of proper screenwash. When the washers stopped working I found that what was in the fluid reservoir had turned into a thick gloopy gunge. I pulled the pump off the reservoir, let the gunge ooze out, rinsed the reservoir out with a hose, re-fitted the pump, re-filled with screenwash, washers worked fine.
8
Good afternoon, in this link you will see how to remove the ones from a GD. I think the ones for your model will be similar:

https://youtu.be/LDEggS0qDHs?si=LkJm9EPJ0Va0TadF
9
Hi, Note to self, take lots of photos of cars condition before giving to dealership. I once had an I20 getting a service, and upon pickup I found a door ding. I pointed it out to the techs and they tried to tell me it came in like that. I then showed them that the paint could literally be blown off, proving a very recent dent. They  were forced to admit to the damage and pay for the repaint. With photos of the area around the radar, you would never have to wonder  did they or didn't they. I think I might invest in a dash cam with parking mode. With  your situation, I think showing photos of the damage would help us decide if the issue needs to be pushed further.
10
Hi all,

First, I just want to apologise if I've posted this in the wrong thread.

A few months ago, the SCC and FCW system on my 2021 i30 started sounding off whilst I was driving on the highway. After making sure the car was still safe to drive and assuming some dirt or gunk was affecting the sensors, I carried on.

Fast forward, took my car for a service, told them that the sensors were acting up and needed to be looked at. They came back and told me that it appeared my car had been in an accident and there was damage on the bonnet, therefore voiding warranty and I would need to pay labor costs to recalibrate the system. I asked to see the damage and I was shown a tiny little paint scrape on the bonnet which I hadn't even noticed (and I check for scrapes regularly – I love my i30🥰). So fine, not what I wanted to hear, but whatevs.

Took my car back to go ahead with it and now I've been told that the whole radar system appears to have "impact damage" and will need a new radar, costing roughly 3k for the part and $600 in labor to install and recalibrate. So basically my only two options are paying almost 4k or going through insurance, still paying the excess and losing my no-claim status.

While the money is a factor, I'm more curious as to whether anyone else has had a similar experience and what you did about it? If I had knowingly been in an accident or noticed damage, I would immediately make a claim or request a repair quote. Would it be worth pursuing a concession given the circumstances or should I just suck it up and accept it for what it is?

SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal